Location: Denizli Province
Pamukkale (Turkish: Cotton Castle or Cotton Fortress) - a Turkish
town located in the Cürüksu Valley (in ancient times called the
Lycos Valley), about 18 km from Denizli.
It is famous for its
limestone deposits formed on the slope of Mount Cökelez. Water
flowing from hot springs, rich in calcium compounds and carbon
dioxide, cools on the surface and precipitates calcium carbonate,
the deposits of which form numerous dripstones. On the mountain
slope, there are thresholds, semicircular and elliptical pools of
thermal water, separated from each other by round dams, over which
the water flows. This process has been going on for about 14,000
years. The sedimentary rocks formed here are travertines.
The
Turkish authorities protected the area by creating a national park,
which is included in the World Natural Heritage List. Hotels built
in the area contributed to environmental degradation. Therefore, the
Turkish authorities ordered their closure and demolition. In 1997,
the tourist route leading through the natural terraces was closed.
The southern part is open to visitors along an artificial canal
through which water flows, filling artificially created pools. Due
to the protection of sediments, entering the travertines is only
possible after removing shoes. The calcium content in the flowing
water is so high that it can cover an area of approximately 4.9 km²
per year with 1 mm thick sediment. Concrete dams creating artificial
pools are already thoroughly covered with sediment. The water flow
(amount and place) is regulated by park employees so as to evenly
supply natural and artificial pools.
Pamukkale is located in southwest Turkey, more precisely in the valley of the Meander River, near the ancient archaeological site of Laodicea of Lycos, fifteen kilometers northeast of the city of Denizli, in the homonymous province.
The thermal springs
Tectonic movements not only caused frequent
earthquakes, but also allowed the creation of numerous thermal springs.
The water that flows from it is supersaturated with calcium ions and
carbon dioxide, which forms carbonic acid with the water. By emerging,
the water loses a large part of the carbon dioxide, shifting the
chemical balance from bicarbonate to calcium carbonate which, also due
to the lowering of the temperature, precipitates giving rise to the
characteristic formations, made up of thick white layers of limestone
and travertine along the mountain slope, making the area similar to a
cotton fortress or ice falls.
Pamukkale was defaced during the
20th century: hotels were built on top of the site, destroying part of
the ruins of Hierapolis, and hot water was channeled to fill the hotels'
artificial pools. For years, the discharges from the latter poured waste
water directly onto the site, contributing significantly to the
darkening of the limestone basins. An asphalt road was also built in the
middle of the site to allow visitors to reach the top of the formation
by bike, motorbike or on foot. Furthermore, the latter were allowed to
wash themselves inside the limestone tanks using industrial detergents,
further aggravating the problem.
Following the damage caused,
UNESCO intervened, preparing a recovery plan in an attempt to reverse
the darkening process. The hotels were demolished, and the street
covered with artificial pools which are still accessible, unlike the
rest, by barefoot tourists. A small trench was dug along the edge, in
order to recover the water and avoid its dispersion. The brown parts are
bleached by leaving them in the sun, in the absence of water for several
hours a day. For this reason many swimming pools are empty. Some areas
are covered in water for a couple of hours a day, according to the
schedule displayed at the top of the hill. Furthermore, the site is
constantly monitored by staff who prevent visitors from abusing the
places. Thanks to these interventions the musa is slowly regaining its
natural white color.
The underground volcanic activity that
generated the thermal springs also allows carbon dioxide to escape,
generating what is called "Plutonium", made up entirely of pluto, and
which means "place of the god of death".
The site is also interesting from an archaeological point of view.
Founded in the 2nd century BC. BC by one of the kings of Pergamum, the
ancient city of Hierapolis developed thanks to the exploitation of its
thermal springs. Hiera was the name of the wife of Telepheus, legendary
founder of Pergamon.
However, it was the Romans who constructed
the greatest number of buildings, before the city was completely rebuilt
following a violent earthquake in 60. The city was dedicated to the god
Apollo, as well as the god Pluto who had an oracle in the basement of
the temple of Apollo.
To the north of the site is the necropolis,
the thermal baths and the Domitian Gate, a beautiful triumphal arch with
three bays flanked by two large round towers. The necropolis has more
than 1,200 tombs from different periods, including circular tumuli, but
also Greek tombs covered with graffiti and tombs from the Roman era.
The tomb of Saint Philip was apparently found on the site, near the
martyrium of the same name, at the end of July 2011.
The thermal
pool is still in use. It was named "Cleopatra's pool" by Marc Antony in
honor of the latter who had bathed there once and would have brought
this water to Rome afterwards, by convoys.
The site is visited by thousands of people every year. Tourist
developments during the 20th century greatly degraded the site, notably
with the construction of hotels too close to the terraces or the
construction of a road through them, a road now closed to traffic and
occupied by a succession of artificial stepped pools.
As the
pools are freely accessible, many visitors immerse themselves in the
warm waters they contain.
To preserve the pools, access is
without shoes.