Location: 50 km (31 mi) East of Fethiye
Pınara, an ancient Lycian city located in the Seydikemer district of Muğla Province, Turkey, is one of the most evocative and well-preserved archaeological sites in the Lycian region. Nestled in the foothills of the Taurus Mountains, approximately 45 km southeast of Fethiye and 4 km from the village of Minare, Pınara is renowned for its dramatic setting, extensive rock-cut tombs, and rich historical layers spanning Lycian, Hellenistic, Roman, and Byzantine periods. Situated on a 500-meter-high rocky outcrop overlooking the Xanthos Valley, Pınara’s name, derived from the Lycian Pinale or Pilleñni (meaning “round hill”), reflects its unique topography.
Pınara was one of the six principal cities of ancient Lycia, a
culturally distinct region in southwestern Anatolia known for its unique
language, matrilineal traditions, and maritime prowess. Founded as early
as the 5th century BCE, Pınara’s origins are tied to legend: it was
established by colonists from Xanthos when that city became overcrowded,
as recounted by the Greek historian Menecrates and cited by Strabo. Its
strategic location on a trade route connecting the Xanthos Valley to the
Mediterranean made it a prosperous hub.
Pınara’s prominence is
evident in its role within the Lycian League, a federation of
city-states with a democratic assembly. By the 4th century BCE, Pınara
was one of the league’s leading cities, contributing votes to its
council alongside Xanthos and Patara. The city minted its own coins,
featuring symbols like Athena and lions, reflecting its wealth and
autonomy. In Lycian mythology, Pınara was associated with the cult of
Apollo, whose temple was a central feature, and possibly Pandarus, a
Trojan hero from Homer’s Iliad, though this connection is debated.
After Alexander the Great’s conquest of Lycia in 334 BCE, Pınara
came under Hellenistic influence, followed by Ptolemaic and Seleucid
rule. By the 2nd century BCE, it was part of the Lycian League under
Rhodian oversight. In 133 BCE, Lycia was bequeathed to Rome, and Pınara
became a Roman provincial city, flourishing with new public buildings
like baths and a theater. The city’s prosperity continued into the
Byzantine period (4th–7th centuries CE), when it served as a bishopric,
evidenced by Christian churches among the ruins.
Pınara’s decline
began after the 7th century due to Arab invasions and earthquakes,
particularly a devastating quake in 141 CE and another in the 8th
century, which damaged structures and disrupted water systems. By the
9th century, the city was largely abandoned, its remote location sparing
it from modern development and preserving its ruins. European explorers,
including Charles Fellows in 1838 and 1840, rediscovered Pınara,
documenting its tombs and inscriptions. Limited excavations in the 19th
and 20th centuries, combined with recent surveys, have revealed its
extent, but much remains unexcavated, enhancing its wild, untouched
appeal.
Pınara’s architecture is a stunning blend of Lycian, Hellenistic,
Roman, and Byzantine styles, integrated into its rugged landscape. The
city is divided into an upper acropolis on a circular hill and a lower
city in the valley, connected by steep paths. Key architectural
characteristics include:
Rock-Cut Tombs: Pınara is famous for its
hundreds of rock-cut tombs, carved into cliffs and hillsides, resembling
house facades with gabled roofs and porticos. These tombs, unique to
Lycian culture, reflect beliefs in the afterlife and matrilineal
inheritance.
Cyclopean Masonry: Early Lycian structures, like the
city walls, use large, irregularly shaped stones, giving a rugged,
monumental appearance.
Hellenistic and Roman Elements: The theater,
agora, and baths feature ashlar masonry (precisely cut stone) and
classical orders (Doric, Ionic), typical of Hellenistic and Roman urban
planning.
Natural Integration: Structures are built into the terrain,
with tombs and houses carved directly into cliffs and terraces cut into
slopes, maximizing the rocky landscape.
Water Systems: Cisterns,
aqueducts, and channels, especially from the Roman period, ensured water
supply, though earthquakes later disrupted them.
The site’s isolation
and minimal restoration preserve its authentic state, with ruins
overgrown by pine forests, olive trees, and wildflowers, creating a
romantic, “lost city” atmosphere.
Pınara’s ruins are spread across a 2–3 km area, requiring 3–5 hours
to explore fully. The upper acropolis hosts elite structures, while the
lower city contains public and residential areas. Below are the primary
structures:
1. Rock-Cut Tombs
Location: Scattered across
cliffs, especially the eastern and northern hillsides.
Description:
Over 400 tombs, dating from the 5th–3rd centuries BCE, are carved into
vertical cliffs, some 30–50 meters high. The most striking are “house
tombs” mimicking wooden Lycian homes, with gabled roofs, porticos, and
reliefs of warriors, lions, or funerary scenes. The Royal Tomb, near the
agora, features detailed friezes of a city under siege and ceremonial
processions, possibly depicting Pınara itself. Pigeon-hole tombs
(rectangular niches) and sarcophagi complement the house tombs.
Significance: These tombs, among Lycia’s finest, reflect Lycian beliefs
in elevating the dead to sacred heights and the wealth of Pınara’s
elite. The Royal Tomb’s reliefs are a rare narrative of Lycian life.
2. Theater
Location: Lower city, near the agora.
Description:
A well-preserved Hellenistic theater (3rd century BCE), modified in the
Roman period (2nd century CE), with a 27-row cavea seating 3,200
spectators. Built into a hillside, it features a semicircular orchestra
and a partially ruined stage building. The backdrop of Cragus Mountain
enhances its scenic appeal.
Significance: The theater hosted dramas,
gladiatorial contests, and civic events, reflecting Pınara’s cultural
vibrancy under Hellenistic and Roman rule.
3. Temple of Apollo
Location: Upper acropolis, near the bouleuterion.
Description: A
4th-century BCE peripteral temple (surrounded by columns) dedicated to
Apollo, with Ionic columns and a cella. Only the foundations and a few
column bases remain, but inscriptions confirm its dedication. The temple
faces a sacred spring, possibly linked to Apollo’s oracle.
Significance: As a religious center, the temple underscores Pınara’s
mythological ties to Apollo and its role in Lycian spirituality.
4. Agora
Location: Lower city, below the theater.
Description: A
rectangular marketplace (100x50 meters) surrounded by stoas (colonnaded
porticos) and shops, dating to the Hellenistic period with Roman
additions. A monumental fountain and inscriptions indicate commercial
activity.
Significance: The agora was Pınara’s economic and social
hub, connecting it to Mediterranean trade networks.
5.
Bouleuterion/Odeon
Location: Upper acropolis, near the Apollo temple.
Description: A small, covered council chamber or music hall (3rd century
BCE) with tiered seating for 500–600 people. Its ashlar masonry and
Doric frieze are well-preserved, though the roof is gone.
Significance: The bouleuterion hosted Lycian League meetings or
performances, reflecting Pınara’s political and cultural life.
6.
Baths
Location: Lower city, near the agora.
Description: A Roman
bath complex (2nd century CE) with a caldarium (hot room), tepidarium
(warm room), and frigidarium (cold room), featuring hypocaust heating
and mosaic fragments.
Significance: The baths indicate Roman urban
sophistication and Pınara’s wealth, serving social and hygienic
functions.
7. City Walls and Acropolis
Location: Encircling
the upper acropolis and lower city.
Description: Cyclopean walls
(5th–4th century BCE) of massive limestone blocks, with later
Hellenistic and Roman repairs, protect the city. The acropolis, a
fortified hilltop, houses elite structures like the bouleuterion and
Apollo temple.
Significance: The walls and acropolis highlight
Pınara’s defensive capabilities, leveraging its elevated position.
8. Byzantine Churches
Location: Lower city and near the baths.
Description: Two small churches (5th–6th centuries CE) with apses and
cross motifs, built from reused Roman stones. One near the baths has a
baptistery.
Significance: The churches mark Pınara’s Christian phase
as a bishopric, reflecting the region’s religious shift.
9.
Necropolis and Sarcophagi
Location: Eastern slopes and near the
agora.
Description: Beyond the rock-cut tombs, freestanding
sarcophagi with gabled lids and reliefs (e.g., lions, warriors) dot the
necropolis. Some bear Lycian inscriptions.
Significance: The
necropolis underscores Lycian burial practices and the city’s
prosperity, with sarcophagi indicating elite status.
Pınara is a cornerstone of Lycian heritage, offering insights into a
unique civilization:
Lycian Identity: The rock-cut tombs,
inscriptions in the Lycian script, and Apollo cult highlight Lycia’s
distinct language, matrilineal society, and maritime culture.
Political Influence: As a leading city in the Lycian League, Pınara
shaped early democratic governance, influencing later Greek and Roman
systems.
Cultural Syncretism: The site blends Lycian, Hellenistic,
Roman, and Byzantine elements, reflecting Lycia’s role as a
Mediterranean crossroads.
Preservation: Pınara’s remote location and
minimal excavation preserve its authenticity, offering a raw, unpolished
contrast to restored sites like Ephesus.
Archaeological Potential:
Unexcavated areas, including the lower city and caves, promise future
discoveries, as seen in ongoing surveys by Turkish and international
teams.
Visiting Pınara combines archaeological exploration with natural
beauty, but its rugged terrain and remoteness require preparation. Key
aspects include:
Location and Access:
Coordinates: 45 km
southeast of Fethiye (45 minutes by car), 4 km southwest of Minare
village, and 20 km from Saklıkent Canyon. The site lies off the D400
highway, with a 2-km unpaved road from Minare to the car park.
Transport: Drive from Fethiye or Kalkan (30 km, 40 minutes) via rental
car, as public transport is limited. Dolmuş from Fethiye to Minare
require a 4-km walk or taxi to the site. Guided tours from Fethiye,
Kalkan, or Kaş (e.g., TJ’s Tours, Yeşim Özkan) often combine Pınara with
Tlos, Saklıkent, or Patara.
Hours and Fees:
Hours: Open 8:00
AM–7:00 PM (summer, April–October) or 5:00 PM (winter, November–March).
Early morning visits avoid heat and crowds.
Fees: 20 TL (less than
$1, 2023 rates), payable in cash. A Museum Pass covers entry. No on-site
ticket booth; a caretaker may collect fees.
Exploration:
Duration: Allow 3–5 hours to explore the acropolis, lower city, and
necropolis. The site spans 2–3 km, with steep, rocky paths requiring
moderate fitness.
Trails: From the car park, a 10-minute climb
reaches the lower city (agora, theater, baths). A steeper 20-minute hike
ascends to the acropolis (Apollo temple, bouleuterion). The eastern
cliffs, with tombs, involve scrambling; the Royal Tomb is a highlight
but requires effort.
Guides: Optional but recommended, as signage is
minimal (Turkish, some English). Guides ($20–50) provide context on
Lycian culture and tomb reliefs.
Preparation:
Footwear: Sturdy
hiking shoes for rocky, uneven trails. Avoid sandals due to loose
stones.
Supplies: Bring water (2–3 liters), snacks, sunscreen, and a
hat, as there are no facilities. A flashlight aids tomb exploration.
Safety: Watch for loose rocks and steep drops, especially near cliffs.
Summer heat (June–August) can hit 35°C; visit in spring (April–May) or
autumn (September–October).
Highlights:
The Royal Tomb’s siege
reliefs and the theater’s mountain views are unmissable. The acropolis
offers sweeping vistas of the Xanthos Valley. The lower city’s baths and
agora evoke daily life.
The site’s solitude (fewer than 10,000
visitors annually) and pine-scented air create a serene, immersive
experience.
Challenges:
Isolation: No cafés, restrooms, or
shade at the site. The nearest amenities are in Minare (4 km) or Eşen
(10 km).
Navigation: Sparse signage and faint trails can disorient; a
map or guide prevents getting lost.
Physical Demand: Steep climbs and
scrambling deter those with mobility issues or young children.
Nearby Attractions:
Saklıkent Canyon: 20 km away, a dramatic gorge
for hiking and rafting, ideal for a full-day itinerary.
Tlos: 25 km
north, a Lycian city with a citadel and tombs, complementing Pınara.
Patara: 35 km south, with a beach, ruins, and Lycian League parliament.
Xanthos: 20 km southwest, Lycia’s capital with a letôon and pillar
tombs.
Pınara remains minimally excavated, with surveys by Turkish universities (e.g., Akdeniz University) and international teams ongoing. Since 2010, the Lycian Way, a 540-km hiking trail, has included Pınara, boosting its visibility. The Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism promotes Pınara within the “Lycian Coast” circuit, alongside Xanthos and Patara, with improved road signs and a small visitor shelter added in 2018. Social media and travel blogs (e.g., Chasing the Donkey, Turkey’s For Life) amplify its appeal, though overtourism is not a concern due to its inaccessibility. Conservation efforts focus on stabilizing tombs and clearing overgrowth, balancing preservation with access.