Location: 10 km (6 mi) Northeast of Nevsehir Map
Active: 9th- 13th century
Open: May- Oct: 8:30am- 7pm daily
Nov- Apr: 8:30am- 5:30pm daily
Zelve (also Eski Zelve) is a place consisting almost entirely of caves in the Turkish region of Cappadocia in the Nevşehir Province. The no longer inhabited place is now an open-air museum.
The Zelve Monastery, located within the Zelve Open Air Museum in Cappadocia, Turkey, is a remarkable Byzantine-era rock-cut complex that offers a window into early Christian monastic life and the region’s unique geological and cultural history. Situated on the northern slopes of Aktepe, approximately 1 km from Paşa Bağları and 10 km from Göreme on the Avanos road, this site is part of a UNESCO World Heritage Site and stands out for its integration into the dramatic landscape of fairy chimneys, eroded valleys, and cave dwellings.
The Zelve Monastery dates back to pre-iconoclastic times (before the
8th century) and served as a significant monastic retreat between the
9th and 13th centuries. Cappadocia, with its soft tuff rock formed from
volcanic ash, provided an ideal environment for early Christians to
carve out hidden settlements, churches, and monasteries, especially
during periods of persecution. Zelve was likely a small troglodyte
village in Greco-Roman times, Christianized by Greek-speaking Romans in
the 4th and 5th centuries, though its exact Byzantine name remains
unknown.
During the Persian and Arab invasions (7th–8th
centuries), Greek Christians fled to Zelve, seeking refuge in its
concealed rock-cut dwellings. The monastery became a cornerstone for
early Christian communities, hosting some of Cappadocia’s first
seminaries to train priests. Unlike other Cappadocian sites like Göreme,
Zelve’s churches lack vivid frescoes, suggesting many date to the
Iconoclastic period (726–843 CE), when religious imagery was prohibited,
and simple crosses dominated decoration.
Zelve remained inhabited
long after its monastic peak. Under Ottoman rule, Christians and Muslims
coexisted harmoniously in the valley until the 1924 population exchange
between Greece and Turkey, which displaced the Christian population.
Turkish Muslims continued living in Zelve until 1952, when erosion and
earthquake-related rockfalls prompted the government to relocate
residents to Yeni Zelve (New Zelve, now Aktepe), 2 km away. In 1967, the
site was transformed into an open-air museum, preserving its historical
and architectural legacy.
The Zelve Monastery is spread across three interconnected valleys,
forming a Y-shaped layout that covers roughly 2 km. The complex is
entirely carved into the soft tuff, creating a labyrinth of chambers,
tunnels, and passages. Two of the valleys are linked by a 100-meter-long
tunnel, though parts are now closed for safety due to erosion. The
site’s architecture is characterized by its organic integration with the
landscape, including pointed fairy chimneys—slender rock formations with
large stems, some reaching 40 feet (12 meters) high—that house
dwellings, churches, and utility spaces.
Key architectural
elements include:
Rock-Cut Construction: All structures, from
churches to living quarters, are hollowed out of the tuff, showcasing
the ingenuity of early inhabitants. Rooms are often plain and
functional, lacking the elite courtyards or large halls found in other
sites, suggesting a simple, agrarian community.
Fairy Chimneys: These
natural formations, shaped by wind and water, were adapted into
multi-level dwellings, churches, and dovecotes (pigeon houses). Some
chimneys feature unique multi-headed or multi-bodied shapes, adding to
the site’s otherworldly aesthetic.
Tunnels and Passages: Narrow
corridors and vertical shafts connect rooms, some requiring steep climbs
or grips carved into the rock. Rolling stones, typical of Cappadocian
caves, could seal certain passages for security.
Dovecotes and
Winepresses: Numerous dovecotes, with painted entrance holes, reflect
the agricultural focus, as pigeon dung was used as fertilizer.
Winepresses indicate grape cultivation, tying to the region’s
viticultural heritage.
Unlike Göreme, Zelve’s churches feature
minimal decoration, primarily high-relief crosses adhering to
Iconoclastic doctrine. The absence of large frescoes and the presence of
early architectural styles (e.g., blind niches, simple apses) suggest
some structures date to the 6th century, among the oldest in Cappadocia.
The Zelve Open Air Museum contains around 15 Byzantine-era churches,
a rock-cut mosque, and various secular structures, with the monastery
complex being a highlight. Below are the most notable features:
Churches
Direkli Kilise (Columned Church):
Location: Bottom of the
slope in the third valley.
Description: One of the oldest churches,
likely from the pre-Iconoclastic period (6th–7th century). Named for its
standing columns, it has largely collapsed, resembling a cave. Some
speculate it may have been a stable rather than a church.
Decorations: Features high-relief crosses, typical of Iconoclastic
doctrine, with minimal ornamentation.
Significance: Its early date
and simple design reflect the austere religious practices of the time.
Balıklı ve Üzümlü Kilise (Church of the Fish and Grapes):
Location: First valley, easily accessible.
Description: A 6th-century
church, recognizable by damaged frescoes of angels above the entrance.
Inside, it features three apses and a relief cross on the ceiling.
Decorations: Faded frescoes depict grapes (resembling strawberries due
to erosion) and fish (less prominent), alongside a Madonna and Child and
archangels Gabriel and Michael. The grape motif ties to local
viticulture, while fish may symbolize Christian themes.
Significance:
One of the few churches with figurative art, offering insight into early
Cappadocian religious expression.
Kutsal Haç Kilisesi (Holy Cross
Church):
Location: Second valley.
Description: Likely from the
early 6th century, this church is notable for its prominent carved and
painted crosses.
Decorations: High-relief crosses dominate the walls,
reflecting Iconoclastic influence.
Significance: Its well-preserved
crosses highlight the site’s early Christian heritage.
Geyikli
Kilise (Church with the Deer):
Location: Between the first and second
valleys.
Description: Now collapsed (post-2002 rockfall), this church
was named for a supposed deer depiction, likely a lamb, on its sculpted
ceiling cross.
Significance: Its loss underscores the ongoing erosion
challenges at Zelve.
Vaftızlı Kilise (Baptismal Church):
Location: Middle valley.
Description: Features blind niches and two
crosses on the back wall, with a simple design.
Significance: Likely
used for baptisms, reflecting the monastery’s role in religious
training.
Monastery Complex
Description: Located in the first
valley, about 10 meters high in the rock wall, the monastery is a
labyrinth of small cells, chapels, and winding corridors. It likely
served as living quarters and training spaces for monks and priests.
Significance: As a seminary hub, it played a key role in spreading
Christianity in Cappadocia and beyond, training missionaries sent to
Europe.
Other Structures
Rock-Cut Mosque: In the first valley,
this mosque features a minaret carved into a fairy chimney, reflecting
Islamic influence during Ottoman times. It highlights the site’s
multi-cultural history.
Seten (Mill): A preserved mill in the third
valley, used for grinding bulgur and flour, showcases rural life.
Village Square: In the third valley, a sloped cave area with rock-cut
niches likely hosted community ceremonies and festivals.
Dwellings
and Utility Rooms: Cave homes, kitchens, storage rooms, and dovecotes
are scattered throughout, some multi-level, demonstrating adaptation to
the environment.
The Zelve Monastery is a testament to Cappadocia’s role as a cradle
of early Christianity and a melting pot of cultures. Its significance
lies in:
Early Christian Heritage: As one of the earliest
monastic settlements, Zelve helped shape Christian theology and practice
in the region. Its seminaries trained priests who spread Christianity
across Europe.
Multi-Cultural Coexistence: The site’s history of
Christian and Muslim harmony, evident in the rock-cut mosque and shared
spaces, reflects Cappadocia’s diverse cultural fabric.
Geological
Adaptation: The integration of fairy chimneys and tuff into living
spaces highlights human ingenuity in a challenging environment.
Archaeological Value: The site’s 6th-century churches and
pre-Iconoclastic features provide rare evidence of early Byzantine
architecture and art.
Visiting Zelve Open Air Museum offers a unique blend of history,
adventure, and natural beauty. Key aspects include:
Exploration: The
2-km trail through the Y-shaped valley takes 2–4 hours to explore fully.
Paved paths lead to major sites, while dirt trails and steep climbs
access caves and tunnels. Comfortable shoes, sunscreen, and water are
essential, as summer temperatures can be intense.
Highlights: The
Balıklı ve Üzümlü Kilise and the rock-cut mosque are must-sees, while
the fairy chimneys and panoramic views from higher hills are ideal for
photography. The site’s relative lack of crowds compared to Göreme
enhances the experience.
Accessibility: Located 5 km south of Avanos
and 8 km from Göreme, Zelve is easily reached by car, dolmuş (minibus),
or private tour. The entrance fee is approximately 20 TL (2020 rates),
with free entry for MüzeKart holders. A small gift shop, cafés, and
souvenir stalls selling handmade crafts are available at the entrance.
Activities: Hiking, photography, and guided tours are popular. The
valley occasionally hosts open-air concerts and festivals, adding a
modern cultural dimension.
Challenges: Erosion has closed some
tunnels and rooms, and unstable rockfaces require caution. Drones are
prohibited without official permission.