Location: Kosternberg, Carinthia Map
Constructed: 12th century
Burgruine Hohenwart, also known as Burgruine Hochwart, Hohenwart Castle, or Schwarze Burg (Black Castle; Slovenian: Črni Grad), is a medieval hilltop castle ruin situated on the rocky, partially wooded summit of Kleiner Sternberg at an elevation of 802 meters above sea level. Located south of the village of Köstenberg in the municipality of Velden am Wörther See, Carinthia (Kärnten), Austria, it overlooks the scenic Wörthersee region. Constructed in the mid-12th century as a fortified stronghold, the castle reflects the feudal dynamics of medieval Carinthia, serving as a residence and defensive site amid shifting noble ownerships and regional conflicts. Today, it stands as an atmospheric ruin integrated into local hiking trails, appealing to history enthusiasts and outdoor adventurers seeking a glimpse into Austria's medieval past amid alpine landscapes.
Origins and Early Ownership (12th Century)
The castle was probably
constructed in the first half of the 12th century and is first
documented in 1144/1149. Between those years, Pilgrim von Pozzuolo
gifted the castle and its associated lordship (Herrschaft) to Duke
Heinrich V of Carinthia of the Spanheim dynasty. In 1154, Ottokar von
Hohenwart held it as a ducal ministerial (herzoglicher Ministeriale). In
1162, Duke Hermann (Heinrich’s brother and successor) sold the castle to
Roman I, Bishop of Gurk, bringing it under the control of the Bishopric
of Gurk. This reflected the growing role of ecclesiastical lords in
Carinthian governance during the high medieval period.
Under Gurk,
the castle was managed through ministerials (dependent nobles who
performed administrative and military service). In 1312, Ditmar and
Hartnid of Weisseneck acquired interests in it. In 1365, the Bishop of
Gurk enfeoffed the castle to the Counts of Ortenburg. Ownership later
passed to the powerful Counts of Cilli (Celje, now in Slovenia), a
dynasty with extensive holdings across the region; some sources place
this transfer after 1418.
Destruction and Habsburg Period
The
Counts of Cilli became extinct in the male line in 1456 (following the
murder of the last count, Ulrich II). In the ensuing conflicts over the
Cilli inheritance, Hohenwart fell to the troops of Emperor Frederick III
of Habsburg. The castle was likely destroyed during these events (or
possibly later in the early 16th century); sources differ on the exact
date, but it was never rebuilt and has remained a ruin. It thus entered
Habsburg domains as the dynasty consolidated control in the region.
Later Possession of the Ruin and Lordship
In 1515, the ruined
castle and its lordship were acquired by Johann Geumann (also Geumann or
Geymann), Grand Master (Hochmeister) of the Order of St. George
(Georgsritterorden), whose center was at Millstatt. After the order’s
later dissolution, the property reverted to the Habsburgs. In the
mid-16th century, Emperor Ferdinand I sold Hohenwart (together with
nearby Sternberg) to Bernhard Khevenhüller. During the
Counter-Reformation, the Protestant Khevenhüllers emigrated and their
properties were confiscated; Hohenwart passed to the Catholic branch of
the Dietrichstein family, which also held nearby estates such as
Landskron, Velden, and Finkenstein. The Dietrichsteins retained it until
1913. It subsequently passed to the Maresch-Wittgenstein family and
Josef Neff. More recent private ownership has been associated with the
Hippel and Brandner families; the site remains private property.
Present Condition and Access
Today the ruin is unsecured, heavily
overgrown in places, and at high risk of collapse (especially vaulted
areas). It is not a commercial tourist site but is reachable via marked
hiking trails (for example from Sternberg or Köstenberg), typically
involving a moderate uphill walk of roughly 30–60 minutes through
forest. Visits are free and at the visitor’s own risk; sturdy footwear
is essential, and climbing on unstable walls is strongly discouraged.
There are no facilities or formal opening hours. The site forms part of
the local trail network in the Wörthersee and Nock Mountains area and
offers atmospheric views and a sense of medieval fortification amid the
landscape.
In broader context, Hohenwart illustrates the transition
of power in Carinthia from the Spanheim dukes to ecclesiastical lords,
then to rising regional dynasties such as the Cilli, and finally into
the Habsburg orbit amid inheritance wars and the religious conflicts of
the 16th century. The “Black Castle” nickname (and its Slovenian
equivalent) persists in local tradition, though its exact origin is
unclear. Primary references include standard works on Carinthian castles
(such as those by Kohla, Wiessner, and Clam Martinic) and local
historical accounts.
Burgruine Hohenwart exemplifies a medieval Höhenburg (hilltop
castle), strategically built on an elevated, rocky outcrop for defensive
advantages, providing panoramic views over the Wörthersee and
surrounding valleys. The layout divides into three successive
courtyards, a design typical of 12th-13th century fortifications in the
region, allowing for layered defense and residential separation. The
oldest sections, dating to the first half of the 12th century (Altburg),
include preserved wall segments in the southern inner courtyard,
constructed from local stone to blend with the terrain.
Most visible
structures in the northeastern outer courtyard originate from the second
half of the 13th century. A prominent feature is the formerly square
bergfried (keep), integrated into the outer defensive wall, with its
eastern section collapsed. This tower includes a pointed-arched entrance
on the western side of the first upper floor, a bay window projection on
the fourth floor's south side, and additional pointed-arched windows,
showcasing Gothic influences. The outer courtyard also houses a double
chapel, likely from the early 12th century, with a partially intact
semicircular apse. Originally flat-roofed and later covered by a steep
saddle roof for protection, the chapel's lower level retains a pointed
triumphal arch, while the upper level's is missing. The choirs were
vaulted, and the west wall features two rose windows, adding an
ecclesiastical elegance to the otherwise utilitarian design. Remnants of
residential buildings, defensive walls, and other outbuildings are
scattered throughout, overgrown with vegetation that enhances the site's
romantic, decayed aesthetic. The castle's compact scale and integration
with the forested summit emphasize its role as a modest yet effective
border fortress.
Current State and Use
In its current condition, Burgruine Hohenwart remains a stabilized ruin, with significant structural decay but preserved elements that allow for exploration. The site has not undergone major restorations, maintaining its authentic medieval character amid natural overgrowth. It is protected as a historical monument under Austrian heritage laws, though ongoing erosion and instability pose risks, particularly in areas like the vaulted chapel choirs. The castle serves no residential or administrative function today but is incorporated into the regional outdoor recreation network, functioning as a point of interest on hiking and mountain biking trails in the Nock Mountains and Wörthersee area. It occasionally ties into local cultural narratives but does not host events or exhibitions, emphasizing its role as a quiet testament to Carinthia's history rather than a commercialized attraction.
Visitor Information
Burgruine Hohenwart is a low-profile attraction with no dedicated
reviews or ratings on major platforms like Tripadvisor, indicating it
draws primarily local hikers and niche history buffs rather than mass
tourism. Access is free and available year-round, with no formal opening
hours, though visits are weather-dependent in the alpine region—best in
spring through fall to avoid snow or slippery paths. The site is reached
via marked hiking trails from Köstenberg or nearby areas, such as the
Sternberg-Forstsee-Töschling route or Blacky Trail T75, typically
involving a moderate 30-60 minute uphill walk on forested paths
(elevation gain about 200-300 meters). Parking is available in
Köstenberg, and public transport options include buses or trains to
Velden am Wörther See, followed by a short taxi or walk.
Visitors
praise the panoramic views and serene atmosphere but should note
significant warnings: the ruin is highly unstable and at risk of
collapse, so avoid entering precarious areas, climbing walls, or
venturing off paths. Sturdy footwear is essential due to uneven, rocky
terrain, and the site is not wheelchair-accessible. No facilities like
restrooms, signage, or guided tours are present, so prepare with water,
snacks, and a map app. Photography is unrestricted, capturing the
chapel's rose windows or tower against the landscape is recommended.
Combine with nearby attractions like the Wörthersee lake, Pyramidenkogel
tower, or other Carinthian ruins for a full itinerary. For planning, use
resources like Outdooractive for route maps.