Location: Plzeň and South Bohemian Regions Map
Area: 680.64 km² (263 sq mi)
Official site
Šumava National Park (Národní park Šumava), often called the "Green Roof of Europe," is the largest national park in the Czech Republic, spanning 68,064 hectares (680 km²) in the South Bohemian and Plzeň Regions along the border with Germany and Austria. Established in 1991, it forms the core of the Šumava Biosphere Reserve, designated by UNESCO in 1990, and is contiguous with the Bavarian Forest National Park in Germany, creating one of Europe's largest protected forested areas. The park is renowned for its pristine mountain forests, glacial lakes, extensive peat bogs, and diverse ecosystems, serving as a vital habitat for rare and endangered species. It attracts over a million visitors annually for hiking, wildlife watching, and ecological education, while emphasizing sustainable conservation amid challenges like climate change and bark beetle infestations.
Šumava National Park is situated in the southwestern Czech Republic, forming part of the Bohemian Forest (Šumava Mountains), a low mountain range extending 120 km along the Czech-German border. The terrain features rolling hills, plateaus, and peaks, with the highest point being Plechý (1,378 m) and the lowest at the Otava River valley (600 m). The park's landscape is shaped by glacial activity from the Pleistocene era, resulting in cirques, moraines, and five glacial lakes: Černé, Čertovo, Plešné, Prášilské, and Laka. Peat bogs cover about 7,000 hectares, including the largest in Central Europe, such as the Chalupská slať. Rivers like the Vltava, Otava, and Regen originate here, feeding into major European watersheds (North Sea and Black Sea). The climate is cool and humid, with annual precipitation up to 1,500 mm, supporting dense forests covering 85% of the area. The park's total biosphere reserve area is 167,000 hectares, including buffer and transition zones, with a population density of about 18 inhabitants per km².
Human presence in Šumava dates back to the Paleolithic era, with significant settlement from the 13th century onward, driven by mining, glassmaking, and forestry. The area was largely depopulated after World War II due to the expulsion of German-speaking inhabitants and the establishment of the Iron Curtain, which inadvertently preserved its natural state. In 1963, it was designated as the Šumava Protected Landscape Area (PLA). The national park was officially established on March 20, 1991, following the Velvet Revolution, to protect its unique ecosystems. In 1990, it became a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, one of six in the Czech Republic. Conservation efforts intensified in the 1990s, including cross-border cooperation with the Bavarian Forest. Challenges include historical deforestation and recent natural disasters like hurricanes Kyrill (2007) and Herwart (2017), which exacerbated bark beetle outbreaks, leading to debates on interventionist vs. non-interventionist management.
Šumava's flora exhibits lower species diversity compared to the Alps or Carpathians due to uniform geology and dominant forest cover, lacking a true subalpine zone. Forests dominate, with Norway spruce (Picea abies) comprising 80% of stands, alongside silver fir (Abies alba), European beech (Fagus sylvatica), sycamore maple (Acer pseudoplatanus), and mountain ash (Sorbus aucuparia). Efforts focus on restoring natural mixed forests to replace monocultures. Non-forest habitats include peat bogs with sphagnum mosses, sundews (Drosera spp.), and bog pines (Pinus rotundata). Alpine meadows feature rare plants like the Šumava violet (Viola lutea ssp. sudetica) and glacial relics such as dwarf birch (Betula nana). Spring areas and rock cliffs host unique communities, with over 1,200 vascular plant species recorded, including endemics adapted to nutrient-poor soils.
The park's fauna is diverse, influenced by both natural forests and human-modified landscapes. Large mammals include Eurasian lynx (Lynx lynx), reintroduced in the 1980s, gray wolves (Canis lupus) naturally returning since the 1990s, and European wildcats (Felis silvestris). Brown bears (Ursus arctos) are absent but occasionally sighted. Ungulates like red deer (Cervus elaphus), roe deer (Capreolus capreolus), and wild boar (Sus scrofa) are common. Bird species exceed 200, with capercaillie (Tetrao urogallus), black grouse (Tetrao tetrix), and peregrine falcons (Falco peregrinus) as highlights. Amphibians and reptiles include fire salamanders (Salamandra salamandra) and adders (Vipera berus). Invertebrates thrive in deadwood habitats, supporting species like the rosalia longicorn beetle (Rosalia alpina). The park's isolation has preserved glacial relict species, with ongoing monitoring for biodiversity conservation.
Šumava boasts high biodiversity, with preserved old-growth forests, wetlands listed under the Ramsar Convention, and NATURA 2000 sites. It hosts glacial relics and endemic species, serving as a genetic reservoir. Conservation follows a zoning system: core zones (15% of area) for non-intervention, buffer zones for limited activities, and transition zones for sustainable use. Challenges include bark beetle outbreaks, acid rain effects from the 1980s, and climate change impacting spruce monocultures. Management promotes natural regeneration, cross-border cooperation with Bavaria, and community involvement. The park's non-intervention policy in core areas allows natural processes, though controversial during pest outbreaks. Research and monitoring under UNESCO support adaptive strategies, with successes in lynx and wolf populations.
Key attractions include hiking trails (over 500 km), such as the Bear Trail and routes to glacial lakes like Černé jezero (Black Lake) and Plešné jezero. Peat bogs like Chalupská slať offer boardwalks for viewing. Winter activities feature cross-country skiing on 300 km of trails. Visitor centers in Kvilda, Srní, and Kašperské Hory provide exhibits on ecology and history. Rules mandate staying on marked paths, no fires outside designated areas, and leashed dogs. Camping is limited to emergency sites. Ecological education programs, guided tours, and events promote awareness. Access is via regional buses or cars, with entry free but fees for some facilities. The official website (npsumava.cz) offers maps and tips.