Fejø, a small Danish island in the Smålandsfarvandet north of Lolland, is a tranquil gem known for its fruit orchards, welcoming community, and idyllic scenery. Covering just 16 km² with a permanent population of around 437–473 residents (as of recent estimates), Fejø transforms in summer as tourists and seasonal residents flock to its shores, drawn by its peaceful atmosphere and natural beauty.
Fejø is a low-lying island, with a maximum elevation of 13 meters,
connected by a short dam to the smaller islet of Skalø. Its two main
villages, Vesterby and Østerby, are linked by a single main road, and
the island features two harbors: Vesterbyhavn, the primary ferry port,
and Dybvighavn, a yacht harbor popular with summer sailors. Nearby
islands include Femø, Askø, and Vejrø, with Lolland’s northern coast
just a 15-minute ferry ride away from Kragenæs.
The island’s
microclimate is one of its defining features. Fejø enjoys one of
Denmark’s longest growing seasons, with few late frosts and mild
winters, thanks to the stabilizing influence of the surrounding sea.
This climate, combined with abundant sunshine, creates ideal conditions
for fruit cultivation, particularly apples and pears, earning Fejø the
nickname “Apple Island.” The island’s landscape is dotted with orchards,
wild mirabelle trees, and rolling fields, framed by a natural coastline
that invites exploration.
Fejø’s history is intertwined with its agricultural and maritime
heritage. Archaeological finds, including Viking-era silver drinking
cups discovered in 1872 and 2015, suggest the island’s significance in
trade routes as early as the 9th century. The Fejø Church, built around
1240, served not only Fejø but also neighboring islands like Femø and
Askø, reflecting its historical role as a regional hub. The church’s
seaside location and mix of Roman, late Roman, and Gothic architectural
styles make it a historical landmark.
Fruit cultivation has been
central to Fejø’s identity for centuries. Until the late 19th century,
residents grew fruit primarily for personal use, with surplus sold via
“pear ships” to Copenhagen. By the early 20th century, growers began
direct sales, cutting out middlemen, a practice that continues today. A
notable tradition, revived in 1992, involves sailing Fejø’s fruit
harvest to Copenhagen’s Børskanalen for a nine-day market each
September. The island also endured a significant fire in 1854, which
destroyed original parish records, though extracts dating back to 1668
survive.
Fejø’s modern history includes its recognition as
Denmark’s “Village of the Year” in 2018, celebrating its vibrant
community spirit. However, the island has faced controversy, notably
with the 2024 novel Insula by Thomas Boberg, a former resident. Some
islanders criticized the book for portraying Fejø and its people
negatively, highlighting the tight-knit community’s sensitivity to
external perceptions.
Fejø’s culture is defined by its warm, inclusive community and deep
connection to its agricultural roots. Residents, known as “fejbattings”
or “fejøboer,” are renowned for their hospitality, greeting newcomers
and visitors alike—a tradition that fosters a sense of belonging. The
island’s small population supports a year-round community with essential
amenities: a primary school, daycare, grocery store, church, and
resident doctor. Social cohesion is evident in events like the annual
Pentecost Sunday parade, a secular celebration of spring that draws
young people back to the island, culminating in a festive nighttime
party.
The island’s cultural calendar revolves around its fruit
heritage. The annual Æblets Dag (Day of the Apple) festival showcases
Fejø’s apple plantations, featuring a large picture composed of local
apples, alongside tastings of cider, apple juice, and marmalade. Fejø’s
permaculture group and transition town initiative reflect a
forward-thinking ethos, experimenting with exotic species and
sustainable practices to enhance the island’s productivity.
Despite its welcoming nature, Fejø is not a typical tourist destination.
Visitors are treated as guests rather than customers, fostering
authentic interactions. This authenticity, combined with the island’s
low crime rate and open-door culture, creates a sense of safety and
trust, exemplified by unmanned market stalls where payments are left in
jars.
Fejø’s economy is anchored in agriculture, particularly organic
fruit cultivation. Apples, pears, and other fruits dominate, with
many orchards transitioning to organic methods. Local products like
cider, calvados, apple juice, marmalade, and honey are sold both on
the island and in mainland markets, including Copenhagen’s annual
fruit market. Tourism is a growing sector, with summer visitors
renting holiday homes or visiting for day trips. The island’s two
harbors, especially Dybvighavn, attract yachting enthusiasts, while
small businesses like cafes, a restaurant (Fejø Ny Kro), and
wineries like Hideaway Vingård cater to tourists.
The ferry
service, subsidized and free for residents, supports economic
activity by ensuring easy access to Lolland. A free bus service and
a bicycle-sharing system (50 kr. per day) enhance mobility for
visitors and locals alike. While tourism boosts the summer economy,
Fejø remains a working island, with residents employed in education,
healthcare, and small-scale enterprises like the restored Fejø Mill,
which grinds corn and operates a café.
Fejø offers a blend of natural, cultural, and culinary experiences,
best explored by bike or on foot due to its compact size and minimal
traffic. Key attractions include:
Fejø Church: Nearly 900 years
old, this seaside church features a Gothic limestone font, a
17th-century altarpiece, and a small beach, ideal for quiet reflection.
A hidden statue of the Virgin Mary in a nearby tree adds intrigue.
Fejø Mill: A restored windmill, operational since 2013, with an attached
café serving local specialties, including the renowned “Møllepigernes
lagkage,” a homemade layer cake that draws rave reviews.
Hideaway
Vingård and Figenarboret: A winery and fig collection offering guided
tours, wine tastings, and local cuisine, showcasing Fejø’s innovative
agricultural scene.
Island Museum: A small museum tracing Fejø’s
history back to the Stone Age, offering insights into its maritime and
agricultural past.
Dybvig Harbor: A picturesque yacht harbor with a
historic boatyard, still crafting wooden boats for institutions like the
National Museum.
Kernegaarden: A lunch café serving freshly baked
bread and local dishes, emphasizing Fejø’s farm-to-table ethos.
Ro
Naturcamp: A campsite offering local products like natural wine,
breakfast bread, and cakes, catering to eco-conscious travelers.
The
island’s natural beauty is a major draw, with cycling routes winding
through orchards, past mirabelle-lined fences, and along unspoiled
beaches. Wildlife, including deer, roams freely, and the ever-changing
sky and Baltic light create a serene backdrop. For sailors, Fejø is a
tranquil stop in the Smålandsfarvandet, with its yacht harbor offering a
peaceful retreat compared to busier islands like Agersø.
Living on Fejø offers a balance of tranquility and community
engagement. Residents describe a slower pace of life, free from urban
stresses, with minimal traffic signs, advertising, or fences. The
island’s small size fosters close connections, yet its amenities ensure
self-sufficiency. For visitors, Fejø feels like a step back in time,
where the lack of commercialization enhances its charm. Holiday homes,
many built by fruit growers like the 1930 brick house described by a
blogger, provide cozy bases for exploring the island.
However,
Fejø’s appeal is not universal. Some visitors, as noted in a 2023
review, have found the island “boring” due to limited open businesses
during off-peak times, particularly outside summer. The ferry’s cost can
also be a deterrent for budget travelers, though residents argue it’s a
small price for the island’s unique experience. For those seeking
relaxation, authentic interactions, and a taste of rural Denmark, Fejø
delivers in spades.
Getting There: A subsidized ferry, M/F Christine, runs from Kragenæs
to Vesterbyhavn approximately 20 times daily, taking 15 minutes. The
ferry is free for residents but costs visitors (exact fares vary; check
visitlolland-falster.dk).
Transport: A free bus service operates on
the island, and bikes are available for rent at both harbors (50
kr./day). The single road makes navigation simple.
Accommodation:
Holiday homes and villas are available through platforms like Interhome,
with options ranging from quaint cottages to modern rentals. Camping is
available at Ro Naturcamp.
Dining: Fejø Ny Kro in Vesterby offers
daily dining, while Hideaway Vingård and Kernegaarden provide seasonal
fare. The mill’s café is a must for its layer cake.
Events: Æblets
Dag (late summer/early fall), the Pentecost Sunday parade, and St. Hans
evening (midsummer) are highlights.
Weather: Fejø’s mild climate sees
highs of 47–54°F in spring (April 2025 forecast) and warmer summers,
with partly cloudy skies and occasional showers.