Femø, a small Danish island in the Smålandsfarvandet north of Lolland, is a serene and culturally significant destination known for its hilly landscapes, vibrant community, and historical importance as the site of the world’s first women’s camp. Covering 11.38 km² with a population of approximately 112–121 residents (as of 2023), Femø is the most undulating island in the region, offering a peaceful retreat with rich natural beauty and a strong sense of local identity.
Femø is located in the Smålandsfarvandet, a sheltered waterway
between Lolland and Zealand, with nearby islands including Fejø, Askø,
and Vejrø. The island spans 11.38 km² with a 14.9 km coastline, making
it compact yet varied. Its highest point, Issemosebjerg, rises 22 meters
above sea level, contributing to its reputation as the most hilly island
in the region. The terrain features moraine landscapes, cultivated
fields, and a low-lying area called Bækkenet, partially below sea level,
which divides the island into northern and southern halves. Willow
hedges, winding lanes, and small trails create a picturesque, almost
fairytale-like setting, enhanced by views of the Storebæltsbroen (53 km
away) and Storstrømsbro (30 km away) on clear days.
The climate
is temperate, with mild summers (16–20°C) and cool winters (0–5°C).
April 2025 forecasts suggest highs of 47–54°F with partly cloudy skies
and occasional showers, ideal for outdoor activities like hiking or
cycling. The island’s vegetation includes cultivated land (grains,
rapeseed, maize, sugar beet seeds) and 40% tree cover, supporting
diverse ecosystems with nine vegetation zones, from coastal areas to
inland forests. Femø’s child-friendly beaches and sheltered harbor make
it a haven for families and sailors, while its hilly trails attract
nature lovers.
Femø’s history dates back to prehistoric times, with Stone Age and
Bronze Age artifacts indicating early settlement. Before the
construction of Femø Kirke in the 16th century, residents sailed to Fejø
for church services. The island became an independent parish in 1527,
and its church, built around 1500, remains a central landmark. Femø
endured hardships during the 17th-century wars, including Swedish
plundering in 1660, which led to near-famine conditions, requiring aid
from Nykøbing and Stubbekøbing. In 1901, the population peaked at over
708, but by 2019, it had declined to 119, reflecting rural depopulation
trends.
The island’s most notable historical contribution is the
establishment of the world’s first women’s camp, Kvindelejren, in 1971.
Founded by the Red Stocking Movement, the camp initially drew 400 women
for an 8-week program focused on feminist ideals, welcoming only women
and children. Over time, it became primarily associated with lesbian
communities, though it remains open to all women. In 1984, Femø women
took over the camp’s organization, and in 2005, it opened to trans women
with proper identification, a significant step after years of debate.
Today, Kvindelejren attracts over 250 women annually for 8–9 weeks,
including an international week for European visitors.
During
World War I, schoolteacher Lindhardt maintained “Blackboards” in
Nørreby, posting daily war updates outside the grocery store, a unique
historical artifact still visible today. The island’s population decline
led to the closure of its school in 1998, but community resilience has
preserved its cultural and historical vibrancy.
Femø’s culture is defined by its close-knit community, progressive
history, and celebration of nature and creativity. The island has two
villages, Nørreby and Sønderby, plus a harbor settlement, connected by
winding roads and trails. Residents are known for their openness and
hospitality, fostering a trusting environment where community
initiatives thrive. The island’s website (femo.dk) serves as a hub for
information on local associations, events, and properties for sale,
reflecting a proactive community spirit.
Kvindelejren is a
cultural cornerstone, running for 8–9 weeks each summer with tents for
sleeping, dining, and socializing. The camp’s inclusive ethos and focus
on women’s empowerment draw a diverse crowd, fostering discussions on
feminism, identity, and community. The annual Femø Jazz Festival, held
since 1970 in early August, transforms the harbor into a lively venue
for jazz performances, attracting musicians and visitors from across
Denmark. The Femø Fortællefestival, launched in 2023, celebrates
storytelling, while Femø Klassisk offers free classical concerts in the
church, often tied to the jazz festival.
Local associations like
Femø Idrætsforening (sports club since 1922), Femø Jagtforening (hunting
club), and Femø Bådelaug (boating association) organize activities
ranging from rævejagter (fox hunts) to sailing events. The
Pensionistforeningen hosts weekly winter gatherings, and Femø
Lokalhistoriske Arkiv preserves the island’s history through
photographs, films, and records of houses, farms, and maritime
traditions. Eventyrstrædet (“Fairytale Street”) in Nørreby, with troll
and witch figures in tree trunks, adds a whimsical touch, delighting
families and visitors.
Femø’s economy is primarily agricultural, with land use dominated
by grains, rapeseed, maize, and sugar beet seeds. Fruit cultivation,
once significant, has declined, though small-scale viniculture
persists. The harbor’s grocery store, Havnehøkeren, run by
Andelsforeningen Femø Havnehøker since 2021, serves residents and
tourists, staffed by volunteers. Tourism is a growing sector, with
holiday homes, a campsite, and shelter accommodations attracting
visitors, particularly in summer. Femø Kro, Højriis Bed and
Breakfast, and Airbnb rentals provide lodging, while Alice’s Ice
Cream and Sausages at the harbor offers casual dining.
The
harbor, with 100 berths, is a hub for yachting and fishing,
supported by facilities like a sailors’ lounge (Æggeskallen),
laundry, and diesel sales. The ferry from Kragenæs (55 minutes, DKK
70/adult, DKK 15/child) connects Femø to Lolland, with a free
dial-a-bus service and bicycle rentals (DKK 50/day) enhancing island
mobility. Small businesses, including a blacksmith, brewery (Femø
Bryghus), and nature center, contribute to the economy, while the
resident doctor and library ensure essential services. The closure
of the school and former airstrip reflects economic challenges, but
community-driven initiatives sustain local vitality.
Femø’s compact size and diverse landscapes make it ideal for
exploration by bike or foot. Key attractions include:
Femø Kirke:
A 16th-century church with a simple, elegant design, hosting classical
concerts and community events. Its graveyard offers views of the hilly
countryside.
Femø Museum: A small museum showcasing stones, stuffed
animals, and artifacts from fishing, farming, and maritime trades,
providing insights into the island’s past.
Kvindelejren: The women’s
camp (summer only) offers a unique cultural experience, though it’s
primarily for participants. Visitors can learn about its history via
local guides.
Femø Jazz Festival: Held in early August at the harbor,
this vibrant event features jazz performances, food stalls, and a
festive atmosphere (check femo.dk for dates).
Femø Havn: A green
harbor with 100 berths, offering bike rentals, Havnehøkeren grocery,
Alice’s Ice Cream and Sausages, and Æggeskallen lounge. It’s
pet-friendly and eco-conscious, with no weed spraying.
Eventyrstrædet: A charming street in Nørreby with fairytale figures
carved into trees, perfect for families.
Hiking and Biking Trails:
Renovated in 2013, trails wind through hilly moraine landscapes, willow
hedges, and coastal paths. The Bækkenet trail offers birdwatching, with
views of the Smålandsfarvandet.
Beaches: Child-friendly beaches on
the west coast are ideal for swimming, kayaking, and paddleboarding. The
beach near Femø Havn is a fishing hotspot.
Blackboards: Historic war
updates from WWI in Nørreby, displayed outside the former grocery store,
offering a glimpse into early 20th-century life.
Femø Lokalhistoriske
Arkiv: A historical archive with photographs, films, and records, open
by appointment for those researching island heritage.
Outdoor
activities include cycling (bikes rentable at “Stenbideren” in the
harbor), hiking, and fishing, with the harbor and western beaches
popular for sea trout and flatfish. The island’s summerhouse area, Lille
Strandgård, offers scenic walks, while the Femø Naturcenter provides
guided tours and educational programs.
Femø’s lifestyle is slow-paced and community-oriented, with residents
valuing nature, sustainability, and mutual support. The island’s small
population fosters close connections, and amenities like the harbor
store, library, and resident doctor ensure self-sufficiency. The free
dial-a-bus (call 54715040 or 40280040) and bike-sharing system make
navigation easy, though the island’s hilly terrain can be a mild
challenge for cyclists.
Visitors describe Femø as a “hidden gem”
(Tripadvisor, 4/5 from 5 reviews), praising its tranquility and natural
beauty. Holiday homes, like those listed on Landfolk and Booking.com,
offer cozy stays with sea views, starting at €90/night. The ferry ride
from Kragenæs, described as “calming” by bloggers like Northtrotter,
sets a relaxing tone. The harbor’s eco-friendly ethos and amenities,
including laundry and a sail kitchen, appeal to sailors, while families
enjoy the beaches and Eventyrstrædet. However, limited dining options
(mainly Alice’s and Femø Kro) and seasonal closures (e.g., Havnehøkeren
in winter) may frustrate some visitors. Summer is peak season, with the
jazz festival and Kvindelejren adding vibrancy, while spring and autumn
offer quieter exploration.
Getting There: A ferry (M/F Femøsund) runs from Kragenæs on Lolland
to Femø Havn (55 minutes, ~6 times daily). Adult tickets cost DKK 70,
children (4–16) DKK 15. Check visitlolland-falster.com for schedules.
Transport: A free dial-a-bus operates year-round (call 54715040). Bike
rentals are available at the harbor (DKK 50/day). The island is
walkable, with trails renovated in 2013.
Accommodation: Options
include Femø Kro, Højriis Bed and Breakfast, Airbnb rentals, and holiday
homes via Landfolk or Booking.com (€90–150/night). Camping and shelters
are available at Femø Havn (book via bookenshelter.dk).
Dining:
Alice’s Ice Cream and Sausages (harbor, summer only), Femø Kro, and
Havnehøkeren (grocery, volunteer-run) are main options. Self-catering is
common.
Events: Femø Jazz Festival (early August), Femø
Fortællefestival (August), Kvindelejren (summer), and classical concerts
(check femo.dk).
Weather: April 2025 forecasts 47–54°F, partly cloudy
with showers. Bring layers and sturdy shoes for trails.