Location: Head of South Harbor, Helsinki
Bus: 13, 16
Trolley: 1, 1A, 2, 3B, 3T, 4
Closed in winter
The Market Square (Swedish: Salutorget) is one of Helsinki's most significant markets. It is located on the southern edge of the historic center, in the wig of the Eteläsatama bay, and is bordered to the south by the sea, to the north by Pohjoisesplanadi, which runs along the edge of the market, to the west by Unioninkatu, on the other side of which Esplanadi park begins, and to the east by the Linnanaltaasi at the mouth of the Katajanokka canal.
Pre-19th Century: Swedish Era (1550–1809)
Before the early 19th
century, the site of today’s Market Square was the muddy, shallow bottom
of Kaupunginlahti bay, featuring simple fishing piers. Local fishermen
moored their boats and sold their catch directly here. The main urban
market at the time was Suurtori (Great Square), now the site of Senate
Square. The area around the future Market Square had Eteläinen Rantakatu
(Southern Shore Street) roughly where Pohjoisesplanadi runs today, with
the city proper lying inland.
The tradition of the Baltic Herring
Market (Silakkamarkkinat) dates back to 1743, one of Finland’s oldest
continuous events, originally tied to these fishing activities.
Early 19th Century: Creation as the Capital’s Market (Grand Duchy of
Finland, 1809–1917)
After Finland became an autonomous Grand Duchy of
Russia in 1809, Helsinki was designated the capital. Architect Johan
Albrecht Ehrenström’s 1812 town plan transformed the city center. The
old Great Square became the monumental Senate Square, and a new market
square was established on the filled-in former fishing bay area.
Significant land reclamation filled the shallow bay to create a wide,
functional square suitable for maritime trade. Three harbor basins were
constructed:
Eastern: Linnanallas (for traffic to
Suomenlinna/Sveaborg).
Western: Cholera Basin (for fishing boats).
Southern: Vironallas (for steamships).
The Katajanokka canal was
also dug. By the early 1830s, the square was paved with cobblestones.
Key landmark: The Stone of the Empress (Keisarinnankivi) — Helsinki’s
oldest public monument, an obelisk designed by Carl Ludvig Engel. It was
erected in 1835 to commemorate the 1833 visit of Empress Alexandra
Feodorovna (wife of Tsar Nicholas I). Originally topped with a bronze
globe and double-headed eagle (Russian imperial symbols), these were
removed during the 1917 revolution but restored in 1971. The obelisk
marks the site where the imperial couple landed.
In the late 19th
century, the square expanded seaward with the construction of the
Helsinki harbor rail to Katajanokka. Two swing/turning bridges were
added for train access. Rail traffic ended in the 1980s, but remnants of
tracks and a bridge turner’s cabin remain visible.
Old Market Hall
(Vanha Kauppahalli) opened nearby in 1889, providing an indoor
complement to the outdoor market with vendors selling cheese, fish,
meat, produce, and more.
20th Century and Independence (Republic
of Finland)
Finland gained independence in 1917. The square continued
as a vital commercial and ceremonial hub. In the 1920s–1990s, it hosted
high-profile state visits, including:
Sweden’s King Gustaf V in 1925.
Queen Elizabeth II (arriving on the royal yacht Britannia in 1976 and
1994).
U.S. President George H.W. Bush (1990).
French President
Emmanuel Macron (2018).
Havis Amanda (often called "Manta"), a
famous Art Nouveau fountain and bronze statue by Ville Vallgren, was
unveiled in 1908 at the western edge of the square (near Esplanadi).
Modeled in Paris in 1906, it depicts a mermaid rising from the sea,
symbolizing Helsinki’s rebirth. It initially sparked controversy
(especially for its nude form) but became a beloved landmark. Every
Vappu (May Day eve), students ceremonially place a cap on the statue.
The square remained a center for trade, with vendors selling fresh
produce, fish, handicrafts, and street food. It also hosted major public
celebrations, such as those for Finland’s ice hockey world championships
(1995) and Eurovision victory (2006, drawing ~90,000 people).
Modern Era
Today, Kauppatori operates roughly 6:30 AM–6 PM (shorter
on weekends), with seasonal outdoor cafés, souvenir stalls, and food
vendors. It is a major tourist hub, with year-round ferries to
Suomenlinna Fortress and summer archipelago cruises. The nearby
Presidential Palace, Helsinki City Hall, Swedish Embassy, and Alvar
Aalto-designed Stora Enso headquarters frame the area.
Traditions
persist, including the October Herring Market and monthly classic
American car displays. Challenges include seagulls snatching food from
tourists. The square blends historic charm with lively daily commerce,
embodying Helsinki’s identity as a city where the urban center meets the
sea.
Overall Layout and Urban Design
The square occupies reclaimed land
from a shallow, muddy bay (Kaupunginlahti). In the early 19th century,
significant landfilling created a wide, functional marketplace suitable
for ship traffic. It was paved with cobblestones in the early 1830s.
Three harbour basins were constructed: the eastern Linnanallas (for
traffic to Suomenlinna/Sveaborg), the western Cholera Basin (for fishing
boats), and the southern Vironallas (for steamships). A canal also
separated Katajanokka from the mainland.
The square is open to the
sea on the south, bordered by the Esplanadi park to the west, and
connects to historic streets and buildings. In the 1890s, harbour
railway tracks were added along the shore (later largely removed),
expanding the square seaward with turning bridges. Remnants of tracks
and a bridge turner's cabin remain as subtle industrial heritage
features.
The design prioritizes functionality for trade and maritime
activity while integrating into Helsinki’s broader Empire-style
(Neoclassical) city plan from the Russian Grand Duchy era.
Key
Architectural and Sculptural Features
1. Keisarinnankivi (The Stone
of the Empress / Czarina's Stone) – 1835
This is the oldest public
monument in Helsinki, an obelisk-like granite pillar erected to
commemorate the 1833 visit of Empress Alexandra Feodorovna (wife of Tsar
Nicholas I). It stands prominently in the square. The design features a
simple, monumental form topped with a golden double-headed eagle
(Russian imperial symbol). It reflects the Russian Empire's influence on
Finnish public architecture during the Grand Duchy period.
2.
Havis Amanda Fountain – 1908
One of Helsinki’s most famous and
beloved landmarks, located on the western side near Esplanadi. Sculpted
by Ville Vallgren in Paris (1906), this Art Nouveau work depicts a nude
mermaid (or sea nymph) rising from the water on a seaweed pedestal, with
four fish spouting water at her feet. The fountain base includes four
sea lions. The bronze statue stands on pink granite from Vehmaa; the
entire structure is about 5 meters tall.
It sparked Finland’s first
major public art debate upon unveiling due to its sensual style but has
become a symbol of the city (nicknamed "Manta"). Students traditionally
place a cap on it during Vappu (May Day) celebrations. The fountain
blends natural, flowing forms with symbolic maritime themes fitting the
harbour setting.
3. Old Market Hall (Vanha Kauppahalli) – 1889
Adjacent to the square (on the waterfront), this is Helsinki’s oldest
indoor market hall, designed by architect Gustaf Nyström. He studied
European market halls for inspiration. The red-brick exterior features
ornate detailing, arched windows, a prominent gabled entrance with
decorative elements, and a cast-iron internal structure supporting the
roof. It represents late 19th-century functional yet aesthetically
pleasing civic architecture, transitioning from open-air markets to
organized indoor trading spaces. The hall has about 120 stalls and
shops.
Surrounding Buildings
The square is framed by notable
structures that contribute to its architectural character (many in
Neoclassical/Empire or Neo-Renaissance styles):
Presidential
Palace (formerly a hotel/residence, adapted in the 19th century) — on
the eastern side.
Helsinki City Hall.
Swedish Embassy.
Stora
Enso Headquarters (modern building by Alvar Aalto, contrasting with
historic surroundings).
Historic merchant houses and palaces along
Pohjoisesplanadi (e.g., Neo-Renaissance city palace at Pohjoisesplanadi
3 from the 1890s).
These create a harmonious backdrop of
pastel-coloured facades, symmetrical windows, and classical details
typical of 19th-century Helsinki.