Cathedrale Notre- Dame (Reims)

 Cathedrale Notre- Dame (Reims)

Pl du Cardinal Lucon
Tel. 03 26 47 55 34
Open: 7:30am- 7:30pm daily
Service: 8am & 7pm Mon- Fri
8am Sat; 9:30am & 11am Sun

www.cathedrale-reims.com

 

The Cathedral of Notre-Dame de Reims in the northern French city of Reims, the episcopal church of the archdiocese of the same name, is one of the most important Gothic church buildings in France because of its seemingly uniform, balanced architecture and the most extensive architectural features (mainly from the 13th century). In Reims one finds the first fully developed tracery in history. The architecture and sculpture of Reims Cathedral dominated the French Gothic influence on the development of church architecture and sculpture east of the Rhine since the 1220s. The cathedral is an important historical place of remembrance not only of monarchical France. This is where his kings were crowned, this is where Joan of Arc triumphed, this is where German artillery shot down hundreds of the most important works of art during the First World War and this is where de Gaulle and Adenauer demonstrated Franco-German reconciliation in 1962.

The cathedral has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1991 and is classified nationally as a monument historique. With around a million visitors a year, it is one of the main attractions of Champagne.

 

History

Reims Cathedral, formally known as Notre-Dame de Reims and serving as the seat of the Archdiocese of Reims, has roots stretching back to the early 5th century. The initial church was erected by Bishop Nicasius on the foundations of ancient Gallo-Roman thermal baths constructed during Emperor Constantine's era, with archaeological excavations in the 1990s uncovering remnants of an early Merovingian baptistry beneath the modern structure. A foundational legend, crafted by Archbishop Hincmar of Reims, recounts how Saint Remigius (also called Saint Remi), the bishop of Reims, baptized Clovis I—the first Frankish king to embrace Christianity—around 496 AD and anointed him using sacred oil divinely dispatched from heaven. This momentous occasion established the tradition whereby the Archbishop of Reims held the exclusive right to crown and anoint every succeeding French king in the cathedral, often using the legendary Holy Ampulla containing the miraculous oil. The site has hosted a renowned cathedral school since the Carolingian period, attracting illustrious scholars like the polymath Gerbert of Aurillac (who ascended to become Pope Sylvester II and advanced mathematical concepts such as the abacus in Europe), as well as key figures in monastic history including Bruno of Cologne, Lotulf of Novara, and Alberich of Reims, who were instrumental in founding the Carthusian order. Between the 11th and 18th centuries, up until the French Revolution, the cathedral was the venue for the coronations of nearly all French monarchs—excluding only a handful like Hugh Capet and Louis XVIII—with highlights including the 1429 ceremony for Charles VII, which Joan of Arc helped orchestrate after her forces reclaimed the city from English occupation during the Hundred Years' War. As a High Gothic masterpiece built primarily between 1211 and 1345 under architects such as Jean d'Orbais, Jean-le-Loup, Gaucher of Reims, and Bernard de Soissons, the cathedral embodied the profound bond between the French monarchy and the Catholic Church, featuring intricate elements like its 149-meter length, twin 81-meter towers, elaborate rib vaults, flying buttresses, and iconic sculptures including the famous "Smiling Angel" on the west façade. Despite the Third Republic's 1905 law enforcing church-state separation, the cathedral endures as a UNESCO World Heritage Site (designated in 1991 alongside the nearby Abbey of Saint-Rémi and Palace of Tau) and a enduring emblem of French national pride and Catholic heritage.

In the tumultuous era of the French Revolution, Reims Cathedral experienced relatively limited harm compared to other religious sites, with some vandalism such as the melting of bells and removal of royal symbols like the fleur-de-lis, though it was briefly repurposed as a grain storage and "temple of reason." Restoration initiatives gained momentum in the 19th century, notably from 1860 when the celebrated architect Eugène Viollet-le-Duc led efforts to revive the ornate western façade, including repairs to its portals, rose window, and Gallery of Kings with 56 towering statues. In 1870, Pope Pius IX bestowed upon it the title of minor basilica, affirming its ecclesiastical stature.

The 20th century brought profound trials and triumphs for the cathedral. It sustained catastrophic damage amid World War I, with the utter annihilation of its 15th-century wooden roof framework among the losses. After the pivotal Battle of the Marne from September 5 to 12, 1914, German armies fell back to fortified lines north of Reims, maintaining control until 1918. French forces retook the city on September 13, only for it to face sustained German artillery barrages that demolished much of the urban core. The cathedral itself endured repeated strikes beginning no later than September 17, culminating on September 19 when 25 shells struck, igniting wooden scaffolding on the north tower. The ensuing collapse ravaged the façade's detailed sculptures, and the fire rapidly consumed the entire roof, causing the lead sheeting to melt and pour through gargoyles while obliterating a significant portion of the medieval stained-glass windows—some of which dated back centuries and depicted biblical scenes with vibrant colors. Protective measures like sandbag barriers were implemented from 1915, but sporadic shelling continued until March 1918, leaving over 300 impacts in total and even melting bells in the intense heat. By the war's conclusion, the battered edifice stood sentinel over the rubble-strewn city, its walls pockmarked and interiors exposed.

Given its central role in French political identity, royal history, and architectural legacy—boasting features like the innovative bar tracery in its rose windows and Flamboyant-style gables—the cathedral's ruination became a flashpoint in wartime propaganda. The German command's report on September 22, 1914, defended the attacks as necessary to neutralize a supposed French observation post atop a tower. In stark contrast, French and international media outlets framed the assault as a premeditated act of cultural vandalism and barbarism, amplifying global outrage.

Rebuilding efforts in the interwar period kicked off in 1919 under the guidance of architect Henri Deneux (1874–1969), who pioneered the use of prefabricated reinforced concrete elements to reconstruct the roof, blending modern engineering with Gothic aesthetics for enhanced durability. Generous funding from the Rockefeller family bolstered the project, alongside contributions that enabled the replacement of lost artworks, including new stained-glass installations in the 1960s by artist Marc Chagall in the axial chapel, depicting themes like the Tree of Jesse and biblical narratives. The cathedral partially reopened for services in 1927, and its full reconsecration occurred on October 18, 1937, during a grand mass attended by French President Albert Lebrun. Following World War II, Reims Cathedral evolved into a beacon of Franco-German amity, set against the backdrop of its earlier devastation: On July 8, 1962, French President Charles de Gaulle and West German Chancellor Konrad Adenauer participated in a symbolic mass during a state visit, fostering reconciliation. This gesture was echoed on its 50th anniversary, July 8, 2012, when President François Hollande and Chancellor Angela Merkel convened there to honor the enduring partnership. Additional milestones include Pope John Paul II's 1996 visit commemorating the 1,500th anniversary of Clovis's baptism, and ongoing restorations addressing pollution and war scars, with notable artworks like 16th-century Flemish tapestries and a 14th-century astronomical clock preserved in the north transept.

 

Building history

The construction history of Reims Cathedral, a masterpiece of High Gothic architecture, is partially documented through a famous labyrinth that was embedded in the nave floor during the second half of the 13th century but destroyed in 1779 (originally noted as 1778 in some sources). This labyrinth, known from 18th-century drawings, listed the names of the alleged master builders and symbolized the growing prestige of architects by associating them with mythical figures like Daedalus. However, the exact wording and order of these names remain uncertain and debated among historians, as no other works can be definitively linked to them. Recent studies propose a clockwise sequence along the labyrinth's path: Gaucher de Reims, Jean le Loup (or Jean-Loup), Jean d'Orbais, and Bernard de Soissons (sometimes spelled Soisson). The architect Villard de Honnecourt likely visited the site around 1215–1217, as one of his sketches accurately depicts only the lower level of the choir, indicating that the upper sections were still under construction at that time.

Following a catastrophic fire on May 6, 1210, which destroyed the previous Romanesque cathedral—possibly due to carelessness but suspected by some to have been intentional to facilitate a grander rebuild—construction commenced swiftly. Archbishop Aubry de Humbert laid the first stone of the chevet (eastern end) on May 7, 1211, using standardized stones and materials to accelerate progress. Limited documentary evidence exists for the early phases, but building activity was intense from the outset. Between 1233 and 1236, a violent revolt by the Reims townsfolk over taxation and jurisdictional disputes led to the archbishop and cathedral chapter fleeing the city; this imposed an interdict (banning religious services), causing a three-year construction halt amid the unrest, until royal and papal mediation allowed work to resume more gradually. By 1241, after a consecration, the cathedral chapter began using the choir, likely just its eastern sections, with the eastern chapel already in service by July 1221.

Around 1220, possibly coinciding with Jean le Loup assuming leadership of the project, a significant design revision occurred. This involved demolishing the 12th-century entrance massif in the westernmost nave bay and shifting the new facade further west, which extended the nave (with land acquired in 1218 to accommodate larger coronation crowds) and widened the transept to maintain harmonious proportions. The lower levels of the nave and transept were largely completed by about 1230–1235, with work on the west front beginning around 1230. Following this, the upper portions of the choir, transept, and nave—emphasizing greater height and grandeur—were built between 1235 and 1250. Only then did construction advance on the new west facade, with the final houses in that area cleared in 1252. The facade itself reflects two distinct planning stages: an earlier one up to the capitals above the draped figure sculptures, and a later one incorporating Rayonnant Gothic elements in the two rose windows, which persisted until the project's end. The transept rose windows blended Classic and High Gothic styles with bar tracery, while the west facade's large rose (completed around 1275–1280) featured more advanced Rayonnant tracery. By the time King Philip the Fair (Philip IV) was crowned in 1286, the western structure reached the height of this grand rose window.

The three-aisled basilica was essentially finished in 1311, excluding the upper levels of the west towers, and topped with its final lead roof; the nave roof was specifically completed in 1299 after a lead tax exemption. The towers, originally envisioned at 120 meters, were built to 81 meters and housed bells, including a massive one over 10,000 kg named "Charlotte" in 1570. Structural work concluded overall in 1275, though decorative elements continued. Progress slowed considerably during the Hundred Years' War (1337–1453), with the cathedral enduring sieges, such as unsuccessful ones in 1359–1360, while still hosting events like the coronation of Charles VI in 1380. A devastating fire in 1481, sparked by negligence during work on a spire over the transept, obliterated the roof, crossing tower, galleries, and spire framework, with molten lead causing additional damage; this catastrophe dashed any remaining plans to fully complete the towers. Reconstruction, funded by kings Charles VIII and Louis XII through a salt tax grant, was finished by 1505, with the new roof featuring fleur-de-lis and royal arms motifs. Later events included a 1580 hurricane destroying the south rose window, which was rebuilt with simpler tracery.

The cathedral's design prioritized its role in French royal coronations, from Philip II Augustus in 1180 (in the prior structure) to Charles X in 1825, including notable ones like Charles VII in 1429 aided by Joan of Arc. Subsequent centuries brought further challenges, such as minimal Revolutionary damage in 1793, 19th-century restorations by architects like Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, and severe World War I shelling in 1914, leading to major 20th-century repairs using reinforced concrete.

 

Architecture

Despite various changes in plan during the High Gothic construction period, which took up around the entire 13th century, the building appears at first glance to be a unified structure with an undisturbed sequence of its parts. The floor plan reads from east to west: five radially positioned chapels surround the ambulatory, whose structure system continues through the three-aisled transept with its slightly larger crossing into the nave. With its eight bays, plus the tower bay, the church reaches 138 meters inside, an unsurpassed length, the impression of which is further enhanced by the central nave width, which remains the same throughout west and east.

 

Choir

Reims was the coronation church of the French kingdom and for such national celebrations, of course, enough space had to be made for the ceremony and the dignitaries. In addition, the two front choir bays have five naves, with double aisles. The polygonal ambulatory, on which the radial chapels hang, is single-lane, continuing the side aisles of the three-aisled nave. It is only on a floor plan that one can see how sensitively the master builders designed some of the subtleties: The length of the yoke between the crossing and the polygonal choir is reduced in small steps in order to gradually adjust to the distance between the pillars in the choir. The tracery, the groundbreaking innovation in Reims, was first realized in the choir chapels built from 1211 onwards by joining two lancet windows with a rosette.

 

Longhouse

The outline of the high central nave follows the scheme of arcades – triforium – clerestory that was preformed in Chartres and became classic in French cathedral construction around 1200. The unwindowed triforium with walkway separates the high central nave arcades from the clerestory windows, which are fully lit. The cathedrals in Soisson and Chartres had preceded this arrangement, but here the walls have given way once again in favor of the mullioned windows. Just as the elements of the tracery are subordinate to a unit, the profiles on the pillars and vaults are also related to one another. The cantoned pillar surrounded by columns is taken from Chartres, but in the crossing it has already been developed into a bundle pillar, in which all the vault ribs are led down to the base as profiled bars that rest on the pillars (so-called "services") and thus the derivation of the give a visible expression to the vault print.

The nave is illuminated in the west through the new tracery windows and the glazed tympanum of the portal zone also enables completely new lighting conditions. Even behind the lashes of the portals, the wall was dissolved in glass, so that a middle band of light was created here between the two roses. This is a precursor of the glazed triforium that was developed a little later. Here we have the fully developed High Gothic scheme before us, which will not change significantly in France: three-zone wall construction, four-part cross-ribbed vault and tracery window.

 

Exterior design

The facade is considered the classic example of French High Gothic par excellence, and also the most dynamically balanced. It was built from the middle of the 13th century (1252-1275). Here the motif from Laon has been taken up again: a dominating center in the middle and a powerful movement through the whole facade. The portal zones are far forward and ciliated upwards, beyond the first story.

Also in the portal zone, tracery replaces the tympanum, which was previously filled with reliefs, a completely new idea that is of great importance for the lighting of the interior space behind it. The rose window is the center of this plastically and dynamically highly moving façade. This idea from Reims was so successful at the time that the west facades of numerous cathedrals were modified based on this model. Only the large wheel window from Laon from the period after 1220 can in a certain way be regarded as a forerunner.

As a counterweight to the mighty portal floor and the rosette on the second floor, the crowning king's gallery stretches around the entire tower floor. Her figures were originally gilded.

The western towers have not been fully completed, and the originally planned peaks have been left out. A crossing tower is missing, only four implied arbor-shaped towers, which do not protrude over the roof of the central nave, flank the central square on the side aisles of the transept arms.

 

Sculptures

The most striking feature of the cathedral is its west facade, richly decorated with figures. No other Gothic building has been so opulently decorated inside and out with reliefs and sculptural decoration. Plastic decoration surrounds the entire cathedral, right down to the flanks of the buttresses and the tabernacles crowning them and the console heads, which are so expressive in facial expressions. A comprehensive cycle of figures is developed across three west portals, within which clearly legible developments in High Gothic sculpture can be seen. Together with the sculptures on the western inner wall, choir and transept, they form the most extensive series of 13th-century sculptures in all of Europe.

On the style history of the Reimser sculptures
The large volume of work involved in sculpting all parts of the building, changing architects, changes in plans and the construction period that lasted for decades meant that not only different sculptors worked on the cathedral, but also their works often long after it had been completed were transferred. Work began on the portal figures soon after the start of construction, some of which had to wait decades before they were placed on the west portal. The oldest sculptures can be found on the portals of the north transept. They were erected when the new building had not progressed far to the west, but a representative access to the choir areas that were already in use was to be created. Around 1220 the row Simeon to Moses, which was later added to the right west portal, was also created. They are gigantic-looking, broad and powerfully proportioned figures with large heads. Their tightly pleated draperies are reminiscent of the north transept portals of Chartres, but in Reims the figures begin to detach from the columns and a more varied play of folds covers the less schematic figures. Nevertheless, by the time they were moved, they had already been overtaken by a more modern development in style and were therefore used in a less prominent position.

The figures carved by a troop of stonemasons from Amiens, who brought with them a sharp-edged style of drapery with pointed bowl folds, probably date from the early 1230s (some say only after the interdict was lifted in 1241). These include the representation in the temple and the Annunciation Mary at the central portal.

Again and again, motifs have been noticed in the Reims sculptures that reveal a connection with antique models. Whether this is based on direct knowledge of Roman remains or mediation services via Mosan goldsmithing must be decided on a case-by-case basis. The legacy of antiquity can be seen particularly clearly in the famous Visitation group (also around 1230-35) in the central portal. But we shouldn't be talking about a "Reimser classicism", the expression and feeling in the interaction of the figures are designed entirely from the spirit of the Middle Ages. The protagonists of a late group of sculptures, indisputably made around the middle of the 13th century, are Joseph from the central portal and the Smiling Angel on the left portal.

 

North transept: court portal

Clamped between two flying buttresses, and therefore placed under a pointed-arched barrel without the usual beveling of the robes, six apostles flank the blessing Trumeau Christ in front of the left portal opening, which is walled up today. He lost his head in 1914 as a result of German shelling. The tympanum depicts the Last Judgment, below the seated Judge of the World the resurrected, saved and damned populate the three-striped pictorial narrative. The portal is recently dated around 1210/15 otherwise around 1230.

 

North transept: Holy portal

The portal in the middle, also known as the Calixtus or Sixtus portal, gathers the most important local saints from Reims. Calixtus I in papal regalia is standing on the pillar of the trumeau. The draped portal with six figures shows St. Nicasius of Reims between his sister and an angel on the left; on the right side of the robe St. Remigius of Reims between an angel and another saint.
In the tympanum, the lower strip describes Nicasius legends, in the second and fourth strips miracles from the Remigius-Vita, in the third register the story of Job is inserted. About 1225-1230.

 

North transept: Porte romane

On the far right, the most westerly portal, also known as porta preziosa, shows a Madonna seated in front of the smooth Typmanon surface under an archway with angels and a soul carried up on her head, crowned by the hand of God. The iconography and monument type suggest that the remains of a niche tombstone from around 1180, taken from the previous building that burned down, were used again in the first half of the 13th century to decorate the relatively small gate.

 

Middle west portal

While previous cathedrals often place the Last Judgment in the middle of the west portal, the Mother of God is the central theme here, although the coronation of the Virgin Mary had to be pushed back because of the glazing of the tympanum (modern copy, original parts in the museum). The archivolts were largely renewed in 1612. Madonna on the Trumeau from around 1250. The figures in the robes refer to the childhood of Jesus.

Right robe: the pair on the left represents the Annunciation, the group on the right represents the so-called Visitation, i.e. the meeting of the two women Maria and Elisabeth who are expecting a child. Especially the face of Maria, the second figure from the right, has the clarity, the nobility and the large areas of antique female figures. The treatment of the robes is also more reminiscent of Greco-Roman sculpture than the more traditional figures on the left side of the robe. The figures were made in the early 1230s for a differently planned portal on the west façade, which was later demolished, but were only moved to the new west complex around the middle of the century, in line with the progress of construction.

Left robe: Finer differences can also be seen in the left robe. The scene of the offering in the temple of the two central figures reveals different views than those of the side figures. The statues come from two workshops, but none from the workshop that produced the Visitation group. Mary and Simeon in the center are little moved and have a calm, collected expression; they are among the sculptures influenced from Amiens

In the powerfully built heads, simple, not particularly individual traits prevail, which correspond to a given type. The thick fabrics lie on the upper bodies in large, smooth areas, while they fall from the arms in heavy folds, forming deep valleys and fully plastically arched ridges, capturing space and shadows. These people are neither idealized in the classical sense, as in the case of the Visitation, nor escalated in a visionary or dramatic way, but down-to-earth, human and popular, but endowed with dignity through their measuredness.

The master who carved Joseph next to Maria and Hannah next to Simeon on the far left is completely different. Bodies are leaner and begin to sway in the hips, twist the shoulders, and lose stability. The slender, fine little heads sit flexibly on thin necks. Since the fabric-rich and fold-rich robes no longer have any proper support, the sweeping curves and puffs acquire their own liveliness.

Here a view becomes recognizable that suggests a different attitude to life and is sometimes described in the literature as disembodiment, sometimes as preciousness. No longer the harmonious balance of physicality and inspiration as in the middle group is wanted, but one that leads to greater elegance in the further development. In any case, the phase of classical sculpture in the first half of the century has passed. Since similar tendencies can be seen in Parisian works from around 1245–55, this appointment can also be reconciled with the structural completion of the western facade.

 

Left west portal

The left west portal is christologically determined. The crucifixion in the gable, the temptation of Christ in the archivolts at the bottom left, above it scenes from the Passion that culminate in the wimperg with the crucifixion. The right archivolts have been renewed.

 

Right west portal

Compared to Chartres, the statues on the right-hand robe have been liberated from the column in every sense and become autonomous so that they can relate to one another. The bodies are powerful moving masses with broad shoulders and powerful limbs, the heads large and heavy. They were written about three decades before her transfer.

Overview of the figures on the wall of the west facade
The three following schemes of the western garment figures are intended to offer both a thematic and iconographic overview and, by indicating the presumed times of origin, to facilitate a stylistic-historical grouping of the works from different phases. Listed from left to right.

 

Royal galleries

After the western portals were completed, the pace of construction slowed down. The rose storeys and western nave tabernacles must have been built in the 1260s, the royal gallery below the tower storeys only in the 14th century. At its center is the baptism of Clovis. Here, then, reference is clearly made to the royal succession of the Frankish kingdom. The preceding royal figures on the buttresses of both transept facades are more significant in terms of stylistic history. 14 statues were placed individually in tabernacles around 1230-1240 at the height of the rose window. They are related to a biblical program.

 

Inner West Wall

To the side of the windowed portal arch, the inner west wall is divided into a regular grid of seven storeys and 50 uniform, rectangularly framed niches in which stand individual figures, who, however, usually interact with one another in the neighboring niche. The left half contains scenes from the life of Mary, the right side tells the story of John the Baptist, who was also the patron saint of stonemasons. The sculptures were made around 1250-60, at the same time as or immediately after the last jamb statues of the portals outside.

 

Capitals

The capital zone of the pillars in the interior is extensively expanded in Reims. First of all, the capital zone of a bundle pillar indicates that the upper part of the two-zone structure forms a continuous band. Here the two-zone structure is only present in the presented ¾-columns, but the capital height is already the same. In the final stage of this development, the mother column and the columns in front of it are connected by a continuous band of capitals.

 

Furnishing

Glass window

Before the First World War, the cathedral still had numerous original 13th-century stained glass windows in the higher sections of the central nave, in the choir and in the transept. Some were of documentary value, as well as decorative and religious, depicting parts of the cathedral's history. The windows destroyed in the war were initially given emergency windows made of colorless glass during the reconstruction. In the decades that followed, the cathedral gradually received new windows designed by contemporary artists: in the 1930s, the small rose above the main portal of the west facade was renewed, as were the bays of the side portals and the rose window of the south arm of the transept. In 1974, Marc Chagall designed three windows for the axis chapel of the choir: they depict the Root of Jesse, the two testaments and important events in the history of Reims. Other windows were designed by Brigitte Simon, Tsuguharu Foujita and Maria Helena Vieira da Silva. In 2011, on the occasion of the 800th anniversary of the cathedral's consecration, six windows in the apse, designed by the German artist Imi Knoebel after Gerhard Richter refused the commission, were inaugurated. The last three windows in the Joan of Arc Chapel, also designed by Imi Knoebel, that had had emergency glazing since the 1914 bombing were installed in May 2015. In contrast to most of the cathedral's other stained glass windows, Knoebel's windows are abstract and painted in strong primary colors. Its fragmented composition refers to the devastation caused by the fighting and can be understood as an indication of the resulting disruption in Franco-German relations. On the other hand, when the new windows were inaugurated, their symbolic importance for Franco-German friendship was emphasized.

 

Organ

The history of organs dates back to 1489, when the first, probably single-manual, instrument was installed. This instrument has been extended and rebuilt several times over the course of time, and the organ case has also been changed several times.

Today's organ was built in 1937-1938 by the organ builder Victor Gonzales. The instrument has 86 registers on four manuals and pedal. Some of the pipes from the 17th to 19th centuries are still preserved in this instrument.

 

Useful information

Around 1360, Guillaume de Machaut composed his Messe de Nostre Dame at Reims Cathedral, the oldest complete setting of the Ordinary Mass by a single composer.

The labyrinth on the floor of the cathedral, destroyed in 1778, served as a template for the symbol (see illustration) used to mark a monument historique in France.

Every year in summer, after dark, the "Regalia" takes place, a sound and light show that sets the scene for the facade of the cathedral.