Palace of Tau (Palais du Tau) (Reims)

 

Tel. 03 26 47 81 79

Open: Tue- Sun

Closed: Jan 1, May 1, Nov 1 & 11, Dec 25

 

The Palais du Tau was one of the residences of the archbishops of Reims. It owes its name to its plan which, in the Middle Ages, was in the shape of the letter T (Tau in Greek). Building adjoining Notre-Dame de Reims cathedral, it was also a royal residence during the coronations of the kings of France in Reims.

Occupied since the 5th century on this site, the former residence of the bishops and archbishops of Reims was enlarged and rebuilt over the centuries, with major alterations at the end of the 15th century and in the years 1680-1690. The palace was transformed into a court, then a stock exchange during the French Revolution.

Severely damaged during a fire at the start of the First World War, on September 19, 1914, following bombardments on the cathedral, the Palais du Tau was restored from the 1950s and since 1972 has housed the museum of the cathedral of Reims and the coronation of the kings of France.

 

History of Palace of Tau

At the current location of the cathedral, Bishop Nicaise had a church dedicated to Notre-Dame built at the beginning of the 5th century and moved into an adjoining Gallo-Roman villa, the remains of which were found during excavations in the lower hall of the current palace. This church is the place of the baptism of Clovis by the bishop of Reims Remi around 500 and becomes from 816 to 1825 the place of the coronation of most of the kings of France. The Tau Palace was the residence of kings for their coronation, and the Tau room hosted the royal banquet at the end of the ceremony.

The residence of the bishops of Reims was enlarged over the centuries, notably by Ebbon during the ninth century.

The name Tau is due to the T-shape of the main hall of the archbishops' residence. This name is mentioned in 1138 in a diploma of Louis VII. It then had the appearance of a fortified house, the current wall separating the two courtyards has replaced a thick crenellated wall. The building was then to be surrounded by defensive towers. Today only the Tour d'Éon is attested by the various iconographies and texts.

In 1210, following a fire affecting the cathedral, the building was probably damaged significantly6. A palatine chapel, on two levels, in the Gothic style was built by Jean d'Orbais during the period 1215-1235.

Guillaume Briçonnet had the palace remodeled in the flamboyant Gothic style at the end of the 15th century. Appointed the king's lieutenant general for Languedoc, he had to leave the seat of Reims for that of Narbonne, his successor Robert de Lénoncourt completed the work according to the established plans. Like the neighboring cathedral, the Tau room was decorated with a fleur-de-lysé ridge. There was then in the center of the second courtyard an imposing bronze statue of a deer, installed in the 11th century by Archbishop Gervais. During the coronation of kings, this statue was moved to the forecourt of the cathedral, once filled with wine it served as a fountain. This deer quickly became the symbol of officialdom and now appears on its seal.

The palace was further enlarged by the Cardinal of Lorraine then by Guillaume Gifford who each built a new pavilion on the garden side.

The palace kept this style for nearly two centuries, until the work of Robert de Cotte between 1688 and 1693, at the request of Archbishop Charles-Maurice Le Tellier. The palace then acquires its classical appearance, the crossing of the great hall of Tau disappears and the surface of the monument is considerably enlarged. The Palais du Tau then lost its defensive aspect while the Tour d'Eon had been destroyed in 1648 by Léonore d'Estampes. Now the royal house consists of 6 rooms overlooking the garden, the archbishop meanwhile has his apartments in the south wing.

With the emigration to Germany of Archbishop Alexandre de Talleyrand-Périgord in 1790, the monument was confiscated and became national property. The palace was then completely transformed and now houses a court, while the Tau room houses the stock exchange. The chapel awaiting destruction was converted into a prison and the garden into a courtyard for the prisoners. The return of the archbishop took place during the Restoration, in 1823. For the coronation of Charles X in 1825, the palace was restored in a neo-Gothic style by the architect François Mazois. The palace already has a cultural function with the installation of the Academy of Reims which sat there from 1841 to 1906, moreover a lapidary museum was temporarily opened in the lower chapel at the end of the 19th century. The monument also hosts several congresses as well as retrospective exhibitions such as those of 1876 and 1896 where local collectors and the funds of the municipal museum are exhibited. The South wing along the first courtyard was rebuilt according to the plans of Viollet-le-Duc, the old outbuildings then gave way to the stables on the ground floor and the superb library of Cardinal Gousset on the first floor (near of 20,000 books).

Following the defeat of 1871 in the Franco-Prussian War, Kaiser Guillaume I stayed at the Palais du Tau. Caricatures earned him the nickname "king chi-lit", the latter who then lived in the former royal apartments would have soiled the bed where Charles X had slept during his coronation.

The separation of Church and State in 1905 put an end to the occupation of the palace by the archbishops of Reims: on December 17, 1906, the archbishop of Reims Louis-Joseph Luçon was forced to leave the palace. The Palais du Tau has been classified as a historical monument since December 20, 1907.

From 1907, the palace was intended to house the ethnographic museum of Champagne on the upper floors, a museum on the coronation in the royal apartments that had remained intact since the coronation of Charles X, as well as an archeology museum. At the instigation of Dr. Octave Guelliot, the first collections were installed there, work to fit out a mosaic showroom began in the current administrative court, but the outbreak of war immediately halted the work. On September 19, 1914, the adjoining cathedral was bombed, causing a fire that spread to the palace. The palace was badly damaged, the gallery of painted kings in the Tau room went up in smoke, all of the museum's collections were destroyed. The four years of war did not spare the monument, entire walls collapsed, at the end of the war little more than the facades and the chapel remained.

From 1919, the cathedral was rebuilt and restored by Henri Deneux, who used the Palais du Tau as a workshop. It was not until 1950 that the reconstruction of the palace was started, in order to accommodate a museum which opened in 1972.

In 1991, the cathedral and the palace of Tau were listed as World Heritage by UNESCO.

 

The Cathedral Museum

Since 1972, the Palais du Tau has been a national monument managed by the Center des monuments nationaux14. The Palais du Tau houses the Museum of the Work, with important sculpted elements from Notre-Dame Cathedral, deposited after the fire of 1914 and during successive restorations of the 20th century.

The tapestries that were exhibited at the cathedral can be seen in different rooms of the palace. The museum exhibits the treasure of the cathedral, and dedicates rooms to the evocation of the coronations of the kings of France.

It is also the place for temporary exhibitions, events and shows.

 

The visit route

Lower chapel

The lower chapel dates from the beginning of the 13th century. A 14th century tympanum depicting a Virgin and Child is located above the passage leading to the chapel. Since 1919, the lapidary deposit of elements of the cathedral, visible through a glass door closing the access, has been constituted in this part of the palace. In particular, the fragments of the rood screen of the 15th century cathedral, destroyed in 1744, are present there.

 

Lower room

The lower room, located below the Tau room, dates from the 15th century, it still retains today the western part of the crossing which gave the monument its T-shape and therefore its name of tau. It has ribbed vaults, the keystones bearing the arms of Guillaume Briçonnet. The excavations carried out in 1996 in the rooms brought to light the remains of an ancient Gallo-Roman domus and the arcades embedded in the east wall are estimated to date from the 9th century. The large bay windows were pierced in 1845.

Part of the palace hosted the king and the festivities during his coronation. The Palais du Tau reserves two rooms for the ceremony and the objects of the coronation. The treasure, part of which consists of objects used during the coronation, is gathered in two small rooms.

 

Tau Room or Feast Room

This room originally had a T-shape, hence its name. This vast room, now rectangular since the work of Robert de Cotte in the 17th century, was previously remodeled at the end of the 15th century for Archbishop Guillaume Briçonnet. Its coat of arms, mixed with those of the chapter of Reims, are carved on the fireplace. In the center the coat of arms of the King of France had been replaced in 1825 by the figure of Charles X (two interlaced Cs), they were restored by the post-war restorations. The hall's wooden frame is shaped like an inverted ship's hull and features nine horizontal beams. The room was badly damaged during the fire of 1914 which destroyed the vault as well as the gallery of the painted king, the fireplace was spared by the bombardments. It is now restored to its presumed 15th century state. Two large wall hangings illustrating the history of Fort Roy Clovis, dating from the 15th century, are on display. This room is also called the Feast Room because the banquet following the royal coronation took place there.

 

Treasure

The treasure is exhibited in two rooms located between the Tau room and the upper chapel. The first presents the treasure of the Ancien Régime and the second exhibits the collections dating from the Restoration. The treasury of the Ancien Régime is essentially made up of objects from the treasury of the cathedral and which were not destroyed during the Revolution, the elements of the treasury of the Restoration were essentially made for the coronation of Charles X:

the reliquary of the Holy Ampulla (the Holy Ampulla used during the coronation of Charles X is kept inside, a copy is presented just in front);
the coronation chalice, a goldsmith's piece which was part of the regalia of the kingdom of France;
Charlemagne's talisman, a jewel of the ninth century. This gift from Caliph Haroun ar-Rachid to Charlemagne was found during the exhumation of the emperor's body in 1166. Kept since in Aix-la-Chapelle, the talisman was offered to Josephine by the bishop of the city Berdolet in 1804. It was Empress Eugénie who offered it to Cardinal Luçon in 1919. This jewel in gold, emeralds, garnets, pearls and sapphires contains a thorn from the True Cross;
the reliquary of the Resurrection dating from the second half of the 15th century.
the nave of Saint Ursula. This ceremonial nave, made by a goldsmith from Tours at the end of the 15th century (Raymond Guyonnet or Pierre Rousseau), was given to Anne of Brittany in 1500. In 1505, the queen had statuettes of Saint Ursula and her companions on the bridge of the nave. The nave reaches Henry III who offers it to the cathedral in 1575. The coat of arms of Henry III, and a Latin inscription made for his gift are visible on the base of the object.

 

Upper chapel

This palatine chapel is accessible from the Tau room. The entrance is surmounted by a tympanum decorated with an Adoration of the Magi. A Champagne passage is reserved in the interior foothills. It currently houses the six candlesticks and the cross of the goldsmith Henri Auguste which were made on the occasion of the marriage of Napoleon and Marie-Louise.

The chapel is built on two levels. It has been classified as a historical monument since July 12, 1886.

 

Charles X Room

This room is dedicated to the coronation in 1825 of Charles X, the last crowned French sovereign. Charles X's coronation mantle is a 5.70 m long piece of purple silk velvet.

The current Charles X room corresponds to the pavilion which was built in brick and stone by the Cardinal of Lorraine in the 17th century and which was destroyed by the bombardments of the Great War.

 

The antechamber

This piece features a copy of Louis XV's crown, the original being in the Louvre Museum. On the walls are hung the portrait of Mgr Le Tellier, oil on canvas by Pierre Mignard, and one of the versions of the painting by Joseph Siffrein Duplessis representing Louis XVI in coronation costume.

Since November 2017, a period copy of a portrait of the Bottlenose Dolphin by Henri Testelin has been presented, the original of which is presented at the Palace of Versailles.

 

Goliath Hall

This room contains statues and various elements of the cathedral. The Goliath, sculpted with his coat of mail and his helmet, is dated to the third quarter of the 13th century. From the top of these 5.4 m it is the largest statue of the cathedral, it weighs nearly 6 tons. It was located on the west facade of the cathedral, above the rose window. In this room are also exhibited other monumental statues removed from the cathedral: The Synagogue and The Church (south arm of the transept), Adam and Eve (north arm of the transept), Saint Paul and Saint Jacques (south tower), the Risen Christ and Saint Thomas (north tower). These last two statues are altered following the fire of September 19, 1914 which severely damaged this part of the cathedral. The room contains fragments of two statues also from the north tower: the head of the pilgrim Christ and the head of Saint John, also dated from the same period. Traces of polychromy are still visible on this last face.:
Room of small sculptures
A room which presents many sculpted heads fallen during the First World War, the monumental sculptures of Abraham, and some models. The model of the ideal cathedral of Viollet-le-Duc gives an idea of what the cathedral would have looked like if it had been finished. Since November 2017, a model of Reims Cathedral has also been presented. A short film presents the construction of the cathedral.

 

Hall of the Song of Songs

Four wall embroideries, dated to the 17th century, depicting imagined scenes from the biblical book Song of Songs adorn this room. These wool and silk embroideries come from the castle of Hauteville (Aisne) and were donated in 1807 to the cathedral.

 

Square Room, or Room Pepersack

The statues of Saint Peter and the Magdalen, dated to the 1st quarter of the 13th century and removed from the western facade of the cathedral in 1970, are presented here. This room also exhibits the six remaining tapestries from a set of 29 pieces woven in Reims in the 17th century by the Flemish weaver Daniel Pepersack for Archbishop Henri of Lorraine, representing episodes from the life of Christ.

 

Hall of the King of Judah

The statue representing a king of Judah gives its name to this room of modest dimensions. This imposing 4.2m tall statue, dating from the mid-14th century, stood at the base of one of the cathedral's towers in the Kings' Gallery.

 

Hall of the Coronation of the Virgin

This room owes its name to the gable called Coronation of the Virgin coming from the central portal of the cathedral. This gable, 8 m wide and 5.5 m high, exhibited here above the grand staircase, was removed in 1948-1949. This room has several tapestries from the Life of Notre-Dame hanging. These were donated in 1530 by Robert de Lenoncourt, then Archbishop of Reims. Sculptures of kings, one of which is attributed to the representation of Philippe Auguste, frame the tapestries.

 

Temporary exhibitions

From April 13 to July 28, 2019: Marie of Romania, queen and artist.
From January 27 to April 8, 2018 Speedy Graphito at the Palais du Tau.
From October 7, 2017 to January 7, 2018: Divine Ornaments, textile treasures from Reims Cathedral.
From November 11 to 13, 2016: Museomix.
From May 24 to November 2, 2014: Royal Coronations, from Louis XIII to Charles X, with the participation of the Palace of Versailles.
From June 29 to November 4, 2001: 20 centuries in cathedrals.
Retrospective exhibition of 1895, new exhibition based on the same principle as that of 1876
Retrospective exhibition of 1876, presentation of the collections of local notables and recent archaeological discoveries