Montreuil-Bellay is a French commune, located on the Thouet
river, in the department of Maine-et-Loire, in the Pays de la Loire
region. This Angevin town in the south of the Loire is located in
the Saumur region. Located in the extreme south-east of the
department of Maine-et-Loire, Montreuil-Bellay borders the
Nouvelle-Aquitaine region and the departments of Vienne (commune of
Pouançay) and Deux-Sèvres (commune of Saint-Martin -de-Sanzay).
Bathed by the Thouet, Montreuil-Bellay is located in the heart
of the Loire-Anjou-Touraine regional natural park, less than 25
kilometers from Saumur (Maine-et-Loire), Thouars (Deux-Sèvres) and
Loudun (Vienne). The town is also watered by a tributary of the
Thouet, the Losse, as well as by the old canal of the Dive.
Montreuil-Bellay is a charming medieval town located in the
Maine-et-Loire department of the Pays de la Loire region in France,
approximately 10 miles south of Saumur. Situated along the Thouet River,
it is recognized as one of the "Most Beautiful Detours in France" due to
its well-preserved fortified heritage, including nearly intact medieval
walls that make it one of the last fully fortified towns in the Anjou
region. The town's strategic position on the historical borders of
Anjou, Touraine, and Poitou allowed it to flourish as an administrative
center before the French Revolution, resulting in a collection of fine
historic houses and a palpable medieval atmosphere. With a population of
around 4,000, Montreuil-Bellay offers a peaceful escape focused on
history, nature, and local wine production, earning it the "Station
Verte" label for its green, outdoor-oriented setting. The town hosts a
weekly market on Tuesdays and features an open-air swimming pool open
from May to September. Key sights revolve around its medieval
architecture, river activities, and memorials, making it ideal for
history enthusiasts and those seeking a relaxed exploration of the Loire
Valley.
Château de Montreuil-Bellay
The undisputed highlight
of Montreuil-Bellay is its imposing Château de Montreuil-Bellay, a
medieval fortress originally constructed in 1025 that overlooks the
Thouet River from a lofty position, providing stunning panoramic views.
Fortifications have existed on the site since the 11th century, but the
current structure largely dates to the 15th century, featuring a
fortified gateway leading to a grand house surrounded by medieval
ramparts. The château is fully furnished in period style, showcasing
rooms redone in the Troubadour style during a major 19th-century
restoration led by the daughter of businessman Adrien Niveleau, who
purchased it in 1822. It has a rich history: during the French
Revolution, it served as a prison for women suspected of royalist
sympathies; in the First World War, it functioned as a military
hospital. Today, it remains privately owned by descendants of the
original restorers and operates as a wine-growing property, producing
fine Château Montreuil-Bellay wines from vines within its grounds—grapes
are hand-harvested and vinified in 15th-century cellars that visitors
can explore. The lovely gardens add to the appeal, and the site is rated
4.4/5 on Tripadvisor based on 479 reviews, with visitors praising its
beauty, well-maintained state, and the picturesque village surroundings.
Guided tours typically last about an hour and include wine tastings,
making it a must-visit for those interested in medieval architecture and
Loire Valley wines.
Église Notre-Dame de Montreuil-Bellay
Located within the town's historic core, the Église Notre-Dame de
Montreuil-Bellay is a notable Romanesque church dating back to the 12th
century, originally built as a chapel and later expanded into a full
parish church. It features classic architectural elements like arched
doorways, stone carvings, and an interior that reflects centuries of
religious history in the region. Rated 4.1/5 on Tripadvisor from 19
reviews, visitors appreciate its serene atmosphere and integration into
the medieval townscape, though it's less grandiose than nearby abbeys.
The church stands as a testament to Montreuil-Bellay's ecclesiastical
past and is often visited in conjunction with the château, offering a
quieter, more introspective experience.
Mémorial du Camp
d'Internement des Nomades
This poignant memorial commemorates the
internment camp for nomads (primarily Romani people) that operated in
Montreuil-Bellay during World War II, from 1941 to 1945, under the Vichy
regime and later German occupation. It's a somber point of interest and
landmark dedicated to remembering the suffering of those detained, with
exhibits and plaques providing historical context. With a perfect 5.0/5
rating from one review on Tripadvisor, it's described as a moving site
that educates on a lesser-known aspect of French wartime history. The
memorial is modest but impactful, appealing to those interested in
20th-century history and human rights.
Fortified Town and
Medieval Walls
Montreuil-Bellay's nearly complete medieval walls,
dating from the 13th-15th centuries, encircle the town and include
fortified gates and towers, preserving its status as a rare intact
fortified settlement in Anjou. Visitors can follow a self-guided circuit
marked by nails on the ground, exploring the ramparts, historic houses,
and gates for about 1-2 hours. This walk immerses you in the town's
medieval heritage, with scenic views of the surrounding countryside and
river.
Thouet River and Outdoor Activities
The Thouet River
borders the town, offering a natural escape with activities like
canoeing, kayaking, paddleboarding, or pedalo rides through the Club
Canoë-Kayak de Montreuil-Bellay. The "Promenade J.R.R. Tolkien" along
the riverbank provides leisurely walks with views of the château and
vineyards, though claims of Tolkien connections are unfounded folklore.
These activities highlight the area's green credentials and are perfect
for a relaxing afternoon, typically lasting 1-2 hours.
Other
Notable Sights
Eglise Saint-Pierre des Nobis: A historic site with a
4.0/5 rating, featuring elements from the town's early religious
architecture.
Hopital Saint Jean: A 3.0/5 rated point of interest,
originally a medieval hospital, now a landmark reflecting charitable
institutions of the era.
Chapelle Saint-Thomas des Petits Augustins:
A small church and cathedral-style chapel adding to the town's religious
heritage.
Autour du Pot: A pottery studio rated 4.4/5, where visitors
can watch artisans at work; ideal for a quick cultural stop near the
château parking.
Office de Tourisme: Rated 5.0/5, this visitor center
provides maps and info for exploring the town.
Château La Salle: A
nearby winery for tastings, complementing the region's viticultural
focus.
A small monastic establishment, probably at the origin
of the current name of the city, is attested from the eleventh
century near a ford of Thouet (future lower town). The parish church
of Saint-Pierre was built there shortly afterwards, near the priory
of Saint-Nicolas known as “Les Nobis” founded between 1097 and 1103.
Around 1026, Foulques Nerra established a keep, on the heights, and
a stronghold entrusted to his vassal Berlai (which by deformation
will become Bellay), the beginnings of the future upper town.
Son of Foulque le Réchin, Foulques V le Jeune became count of
Maine and Anjou in 1109. He subdued the rebel vassals, taking
several castles including that of Montreuil-Bellay in 1124.
A
few years later baron revolts broke out in Anjou. It will take
several years of siege to Geoffroy V of Anjou, from 1148, for the
place of Montreuil-Bellay to fall.
The Berlai family came
into conflict with their suzerain several times and kept the estate
until 1217. A new family settled there for two centuries, the
Melun-Tancarville, then the Harcourt, who left strong traces in the
city in completing, in particular, the castle as well as the
fortified enclosure destroyed several times before.
Montreuil-Bellay is one of the 32 closed towns in Anjou. The
intramural city, still very homogeneous today, did not change until
very little after the fifteenth century.
Under the Ancien
Régime, Montreuil-Bellay became the capital of an important election
bringing together 57 parishes (including that of Cholet until 1750,
when Cholet had its own subdelegate and powers extended to all of
Mauges. ).
Like the rest of Anjou, Montreuil-Bellay is part
of the generality of Tours, of the judicial authority of the
senechaussee of Saumur and of the diocese of Poitiers on the
religious level.
The hitherto flourishing trade collapsed
from the middle of the 18th century, despite the channeling of the
Thouet since the 15th century.
The priority house of the
congregation of Saint-Maur had as its attorney the philosopher Dom
Deschamps, from 1759 until his death in 1774.
The move of the
administrative center to Saumur, during the French Revolution,
completes the reduction of the commercial, economic and
administrative importance of the city, a simple capital of the
canton since 1790.
The city was temporarily taken by the
Vendeans on June 8, 1793. The Tree of Liberty was torn up.
It
was not until the end of the nineteenth century to see an extension
of the city outside its walls, along the roads of Angers and Saumur
opened in 1841, or that of Poitiers created in 1885.
The city
has been located since the end of the nineteenth century on the
railway line that connects Tours to La Roche-sur-Yon via Saumur,
Thouars, Bressuire, old Paris - Les Sables-d'Olonne line very busy,
and is therefore therefore connected to the rail network for regular
trips to Paris. In addition, a tram line existed until the Second
World War between Montreuil-Bellay and Bressuire via
Argenton-Château.
On November 23, 1911, a rail accident
occurred on municipal territory at kilometer point (PK) 94.5 of the
line from Loudun to Angers-Maître-École, on a section inaugurated in
February 1877 and incorporated in 1878 into the network of l 'State.
A bridge over the Thouet River collapsed when a train passed,
killing 14 people. Coming four years after the equally fatal
collapse of another bridge on the same line at Ponts-de-Cé, the
event sparked an outcry against the state railway contractor.
From November 8, 1941 to January 16, 1945, France made the site
of Montreuil-Bellay a camp for "homeless individuals, nomads and
fairgrounds, having the Romani type". They were Manouches, Gypsies,
Roma, Sinti, and more generally Gypsies. This camp was basically a
stalag set up by the Germans on June 21, 1940, and which was then
managed by the Vichy regime. In July 2010, the ruins of this camp
were listed as historical monuments in order to prevent their total
disappearance and to make it a place of lasting memory8.
During the first presidential visit to the site of this former
internment camp, François Hollande acknowledged on October 29, 2016
France's responsibility for the internment of thousands of Gypsies
by the Vichy regime and until 1946.
"The day has come and
this truth had to be told" said the French president. "The Republic
recognizes the suffering of the nomads who have been interned and
admits that its responsibility is great in this tragedy," he
continued during a tribute ceremony, in which several survivors were
present.
On January 1, 1968, the former commune of Méron was
attached to that of Montreuil-Bellay (simple merger).