Biarritz is a French commune located in the Pyrénées-Atlantiques
department in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region, in the southwest of
France. Bordered by the Atlantic Ocean, the city has a maritime
frontage 4 kilometers long, in the hollow of the Bay of Biscay, less
than 25 kilometers from the border with Spain.
The locality
results from the union of two ancient settlement centers, one
dedicated to agriculture and the other focused on marine trades.
Former parish of Bayonne, the Saint-Martin district emancipated
itself from it at a still unknown date, at the end of the 16th
century or at the beginning of the 17th century. Initially a whaling
port, the locality experienced an economic upheaval in the
nineteenth century with the advent of sea bathing. Napoleon III and
the Empress Eugenie made it their resort and created a residence and
its park with a new city as an extension. Thanks to them, the elite
and all the beautiful European society frequent the seaside resort.
This activity did not weaken during the nineteenth century and the
beginning of the twentieth century (Belle Epoque, Roaring Twenties)
until the crisis of 1929. Even today, the economy remains focused on
the tertiary sector, including the hotel industry. luxury, personal
care and marine leisure are the predominant vector.
Biarritz
is today a municipality of more than 25,000 inhabitants whose
population, characterized by a high proportion of seniors, has
shrunk after having passed the 30,000 inhabitants mark in 1999, due
to the decline in net migration.
The history of the resort is
also marked by decisive sports individuals who will have a lasting
impact on the image of the locality such as the Musketeer Jean
Borotra, the scientist and surfer Joël de Rosnay, first French
champion in the specialty, or Serge Blanco, the Pelé of rugby.
The resort's mild climate, the spectacle of the ocean and its
powerful waves, as well as the eclecticism of the architecture have
inspired many writers and columnists.
Prehistory
The presence of prehistoric ancestors is attested
in several places of the locality.
The Chabiague valley
revealed the frequentation of the site in the Paleolithic, during
the Mousterian, that is to say approximately 300,000 to 30,000
before the present (BP) and the Aurignacian (approximately 39,000 to
28,000 BP). Likewise, on the Mouligna and Bois de Boulogne sites,
traces dating from the Middle Würmian (50,000 to 30,000 BP) and the
Neolithic (9,000 to 3,300 BP) have been found, and at Cape
Saint-Martin, from the Neolithic advanced.
The cave of the
Biarritz lighthouse was occupied at two times, first in the
Chalcolithic and then in the Late Bronze Age.
antiquity
Evidence from the Roman or Vascone period has to this day remained
little known for the locality of Biarritz. If Bayonne was in the 1st
century AD a Roman stronghold of some importance, protected against
the attacks of the Tarbelli, Aquitaine or Proto-Basque people, who
occupied the territory, we have little information on Biarritz,
except for the presence of a Roman work on the observation post of
the ocean named Atalaye on the remains of which the castle of
Ferragus will be built during the English presence from the twelfth
century.
Middle Ages
In 1152, Aliénor d'Aquitaine married
Henri Plantagenêt who became suzerain of the Duchy of Aquitaine.
Prince Edward, eldest son of Henry III of England, invested with the
duchy, is engaged to Éléonore de Castille, who brings him the rights
to Gascony.
Two centers of population are attested in the
Middle Ages. On the one hand, the Church of Saint-Martin enlivens
the districts of the interior. On the other hand, the castle of
Belay (mentioned in 1342), also called the castle of Ferragus,
protects the coast and the current Port-Vieux, while religious life
and community assemblies take place at the Notre-Dame chapel.
de-Pitié (cited in 1498), overlooking the Port-des-Pêcheurs. We
deduce from this two main activities, one agricultural and the
second, oriented towards the sea.
The construction of the
Ferragus fortified castle was decided by the English, on the
foundations of a Roman structure, at the top of the promontory
overlooking the sea, named Atalaye, which served as a place for
whale watching. This castle had a double crenellated enclosure two
meters thick, a drawbridge and four towers. There is still reference
to this castle in 1603 (letters patent of Henri IV). There will
remain a tower, known as de la Haille, then de la Humade from 1739,
when the Minister of Marine chose the place to establish a fire
there to serve as a binder. The tower dimolished in 1856.
Modern times
We do not know what period dates the emancipation
of the parish of Saint-Martin, until then a hamlet of Bayonne. In
1621, however, Louis XIII approved a change in management, from
which the appointment of the first jurat - the term subsequently
designating the mayor of the locality - of the town. We also know
the names of the deputies of the parish in the biltzar of Labourd in
1517, Compainhet de Sandore and Marticot d´Etcheverry. Biarritz was
part of the biltzar of Labourd until its disappearance in 1789. The
year 1568 saw the election of a delegation from the parish to defend
its interests, made up of eight mariners and four laborers. These
few elements allow us to identify the period of independence of the
hamlet.
The activity of Biarritz during this period was
mainly maritime. Day and night a lookout is posted on the Atalaye
promontory, scanning the horizon for the blazing stream, the whale's
breath. As soon as it is harpooned by men on board whalers anchored
in the Old Port, the whale is dragged to the latter to be butchered.
In 1565, Ambroise Paré witnessed this spectacle. The capture of the
last cetacean in Biarritz dates from March 2 or 3, 1686.
The
disappearance of this important source of income is at the origin of
a new activity. Mariners and other boatmen set sail on privateer
vessels, but also for fishing in Irish and Newfoundland waters. In
the seventeenth century, there were ten Biarritz captains and nearly
300 sailors on maritime roles, and around fifty captains in the
following century. Thus, the Biarrot Jean Dalbarade (1743 - 1819),
he was Minister of the Navy between 1793 and 1795, after having
shone in the racing war.
French Revolution and Second Empire
From 1784, Biarritz's sea baths were fashionable and Napoleon bathed
there in 1808. When Victor Hugo discovered the locality in 1843, he
already mentioned the risk of seeing it become a seaside town:
"That a hamlet of fishermen, full of ancient and naive manners,
sitting by the ocean (...) become fashionable, (only the) village
with red roofs and green shutters placed on grassy ridges and
heather whose undulations it follows (...) does not have a bad
appetite for money (...) putting poplars on its hills, ramps on its
dunes, stairs on its precipices, kiosks on its rocks, benches to its
caves (…). "
The Empress Eugenie, who had come several times
with her family, convinced her husband Napoleon III to make it their
vacation. The imperial couple stayed there in the summer of 1854.
Napoleon III decided to build a vast estate and built a residence
known as Villa Eugénie for it. The presence of sovereigns brings
crowned heads from all over Europe and makes the success of the
seaside town that the emperor created from the existing village,
such as Louis XIV in Versailles, by making "the queen of beaches and
the beach of kings ". In October 1868, during the Biarritz regattas,
the crews of the propeller-driven Avisos of the naval division of
the West Coast of France Chamois (cdt Jules d'Ariès, 1813-1878) and
the Argus (cdt Henri Rieunier, 1833-1918 , future admiral minister
of the navy and deputy for Rochefort) welcome on board the Empress
Eugenie and her son the Prince Imperial. It was in Biarritz that
Bismarck came to meet Napoleon III in September 1865, in order to
obtain the support of the French emperor for Prussian policy.
From this history, Biarritz has kept some characteristic
buildings such as the Bellevue Casino, the Grand Hotel, the Anglican
Church (current municipal museum) or the Orthodox Church to be
compared to the visits of the Russian aristocracy before the Russian
Revolution.
Contemporary period
The good times
It is
from this period (laying of the first stone in December 1892 by
Queen Nathalie of Serbia and inauguration in June 1893) that the
salt baths of Biarritz date, on a project by the architect Lagarde.
From the Briscous salt works, underground pipes of more than twenty
kilometers then carry water with a saline content more than ten
times higher than that of sea water. These establishments were
closed from 1953 and razed in 1968.
Created in 1894, enlarged
twice (1911 and 1926) and still alive today, the Biarritz Bonheur
department store was at the time a temple of luxury and fashion. At
the start of the twentieth century, the majority of its employees
spoke English. The city of Biarritz is also a city linked to the
history of French fashion, in particular the house of Chanel. Coco
Chanel opened her third boutique there in 1915, located at 2, avenue
Édouard-VII.
German occupation
In 1940, during World War II, the Germans
dug the Atlantic Wall in the cliffs of Biarritz. On June 27, 1940,
German troops occupied the Basque coast. The navy arrives at the
beginning of July. At the end of 1942, Lieutenant-Commander Ludwig,
commander of the 286th Marine Artillery Group, plans and designs
with the Organization Todt, located at the Regina hotel, the command
post of the Atalaye plateau coded BA 39-40 . He settled there until
the Liberation.
To the north, avenue du Général Mac-Crosky,
under a beautiful villa, the BA 34 fulcrum, dug in the Saint-Martin
point, defends the Chambre d'Amour beach from a hypothetical
landing. To the south, along Boulevard du Prince-de-Galles, position
BA 41 offers its embrasures, visible parts of a defensive complex
carved into the rock.
On March 27, 1944, the city was
bombarded by the second wave of Allied air force bombers on their
way to destroy Parma airport, the German DCA having shot down an
aircraft during the first flight. 150 people died there among the
civilian population, as well as 300 German soldiers.
After
liberation, the city hosted for a few months the American University
of Biarritz, inaugurated on August 22, 1945, which aims to train
soldiers after the Allied victory in Europe. Its management is
ensured by General Mac Crosky, who sets up his offices at the Hôtel
du Palais. The university will have 10,400 enrollments until it
closes on March 8, 1946.
The advent of surfing
In 1956,
the American screenwriter Peter Viertel, passing through Biarritz
with his wife Deborah Kerr for the filming of the film The Sun Also
Rises, uses a surfboard that a friend flew in from California. The
surf-club of Biarritz, Waïkiki was created on September 16, 1959, by
Jo Moraïtz; on July 24, 1960, the first international competition
took place on the Grande Plage, and on September 11, 1960, the first
edition of the French championships, the winner of which was Joël de
Rosnay.
In parallel with training and competitions, Dr Saury,
doctor of the station's firefighters in the 1950s, was to set up a
rescue chain for surfers and swimmers, whose organization served as
a model for the future SAMU created in 1956.
In 1962, Jo
Moraiz and Jacky Rott took part in the world surfing championship,
which was held in Peru, and introduced their Biarritz spots to their
American competitors. In 1963, Bill Cleary, editor-in-chief of Surf
Guide therefore went to Biarritz and returned the following year
with about thirty American students passionate about this sport and
carrying with them the aesthetics of their country (rock, outfits
improbables, etc.), participating in the internationalization of
Biarritz as a place to practice surfing.
2019 G7 Summit
The 2019 G7 summit will be held in Biarritz from August 24 to 26,
2019. It brings together the permanent participants of the 2018 G7
summit (Canada), the United States, the United Kingdom, Canada,
France, Germany, Italy and Japan. The IMF, the UN and the OECD are
also represented. Russia is not present, due to its exclusion from
the G7 since the Crimean crisis of 2014, an exclusion that became
final in 2017.