Mâcon is a French commune, capital of Mâconnais, prefecture of
the department of Saône-et-Loire, in the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté
region. At the last census (2017), the town had 33,638 inhabitants
while its urban area, which covers three departments, brings
together 100,400 inhabitants.
It is the sixth largest city in
Bourgogne-Franche-Comté behind the regional capital of Dijon,
Besançon (seat of the regional council), Belfort, Chalon-sur-Saône,
Auxerre and in front of the towns of Nevers and Sens. The population
of its urban area is the fastest growing in the new region (+ 8.8%
between 1999 and 2012).
Cathédrale Vieux-Saint-Vincent
Saint-Vincent de Mâcon Cathedral, today referred to as Vieux
Saint-Vincent, is the original cathedral of Mâcon, dedicated to
Vincent of Saragossa. The oldest part of the cathedral is reduced to
a single bay, which in fact corresponds to what is usually called
the western massif. Two octagonal towers of different height
surmount it. The lower parts probably date back to the first half of
the 11th century, while the upper areas are Gothic (14th century). A
belfry, destroyed during the Revolution, surmounted the south tower
while the spire of the north tower was truncated. Between them,
above the porch, is a high chapel, vaulted by a transverse cradle,
which was called "Sainte-Marie de la Porte" (capella sancte marie in
porta ecclesie), chapel which is accessed by a beautiful spiral
staircase in the south tower.
In his Description of the Towns
and Villages of Mâconnais, Father Courtépée speaks of it in these
terms: “The cathedral church, under the invocation of Saint Vincent,
is narrow and dark, but its vaults are quite high. The ringing of
its bells is considered to be one of the most harmonious in the
kingdom. "
Église cathédrale Saint-Vincent
Église Saint-Clément
Église
Saint-Pierre
Couvent des Ursulines
Hôtel Senecé
By train
1 Mâcon-Ville train station
2 Mâcon-Loché-TGV
station
By car
Coming from the north:
via the A6
motorway to exit 28 Mâcon-center. At the roundabout, take the
departmental road D672 then the D906 following the direction of
Mâcon
Coming from the east:
via the A40 motorway to the
interchange between A40 and A406,
for the center of the town,
follow the A40 to exit 3 Replonges then, at the 2nd roundabout, turn
left on the departmental road D1079
for the south of the town,
follow the A406 until exit 2 Mâcon-sud
Coming from the south:
via the A6 motorway:
either up to exit 29 Mâcon-center then, at
the 3rd exit, take the D169 departmental road towards Aérodrome,
either until exit 2 Mâcon Saône then, at the 2nd roundabout, turn
right on the D906 departmental road
Coming from the west:
via the N113 national road extended by the A406 motorway:
either
until the exit C1 Vinzelles then, at the 2nd to the 3rd exit, take
the departmental road D169
either until exit 2 Mâcon Saône then,
at the 2nd roundabout, turn right on the D906 departmental road
Prehistoric and Celtic Origins (Pre-1st Century BCE)
Human
occupation in the Mâcon area dates back to prehistoric times, but the
city proper traces to a Celtic oppidum (fortified settlement) and river
port founded by the Aedui tribe around the early 1st century BCE (or
possibly 2nd century BCE per local tradition). Situated on a wooded hill
beside the Saône, Matisco functioned as a key trading post. Julius
Caesar referenced it in Commentarii de Bello Gallico during the Gallic
Wars. Archaeological evidence confirms continuous settlement, with the
site evolving into a Gallo-Roman agglomeration.
Roman and
Gallo-Roman Period (1st Century BCE–4th Century CE)
Under Roman rule,
Mâcon (Matisco) flourished as a prosperous river port and crossroads on
the Via Agrippa (the major Lyon-to-Germanic-regions road, with branches
west and east). It supported trade in amphorae, ceramics, wine
precursors, and other goods. A necropolis lay to the south, and the town
featured temples (one later underlying the Saint-Vincent cathedral site)
and infrastructure. It was fortified in the 4th century amid late Roman
instability. A major discovery—the Mâcon Treasure (hoard of ~30,000 gold
and silver coins plus statuettes from ~260–270 CE)—unearthed in 1764
during Hôtel-Dieu construction, underscores its wealth; parts are now in
the British Museum. Christianity began arriving in the late Roman era.
Early Christian and Episcopal Era (4th–13th Centuries)
Mâcon
emerged as an important ecclesiastical center. The diocese (episcopal
see) was established around the 4th–6th centuries (firmly documented
from 536), lasting until 1790. Early churches replaced pagan temples;
the original Vieux Saint-Vincent cathedral (Romanesque, 11th-century
origins, later classified as a historic monument) became the seat.
Bishops held significant power alongside the emerging counts. The city
served as a religious hub with monasteries and convents, while its
strategic Saône bridge position tied it to trade and defense.
Medieval County and Burgundian Period (9th–15th Centuries)
In the
Middle Ages, Mâcon was the capital of the County of Mâcon, attached to
the Duchy of Burgundy. It sat at the Saône bridge's end, bordering
Bresse (under Savoy) and controlling access to the Val Lamartinien, Côte
de Bourgogne, Beaujolais hills, and Loire plains. This made it a vital
chokepoint.
Key developments:
The last independent countess,
Alix de Mâcon (widow of Jean de Dreux), ceded the county to the French
crown in 1239.
In 1317, royal bailiffs granted 30 liberties, boosting
local autonomy.
After the French defeat at Crécy (1346/47), Mâcon
supported King Philippe VI and gained further privileges.
Fortifications included 15th-century walls with four gates, posterns,
and river porches.
Conflicts arose with Burgundy: In 1471, Louis
XI besieged the city during wars with Charles the Bold but failed; after
Charles’s death (1477), Louis XI confirmed privileges. The city housed
the bailliage and hosted regional assemblies (e.g., États du Mâconnais
in 1433 at the Jacobin convent). Viticulture and Saône trade drove the
economy; numerous churches and monasteries dotted the landscape. The
Vieux Saint-Vincent cathedral symbolized its religious importance.
Early Modern Period: Renaissance, Reformation, and Wars of Religion
(16th–18th Centuries)
Mâcon grew into a commercial and intellectual
center. In 1493, it gained one of France’s earliest printing presses
(Michel Wenssler from Basel), producing works like the Diurnale
matisconense. Population reached ~4,000 by 1500, with bustling Saône
port activity.
The Reformation brought turmoil:
Calvinism
spread from 1533 (via Alexandre Canu); bourgeois and merchants embraced
it, though clergy resisted.
Protestant pastor Antoine Bouvet operated
locally.
In 1564, King Charles IX visited during his royal tour,
greeted by Queen Jeanne III of Navarre (“Queen of Protestants”) and
1,500 Huguenots.
Huguenots occupied the city in 1567 (expelled after
two months); Protestant pillaging hit convents (e.g., Jacobins in 1562).
Royal visits included François I (1535). Severe Saône floods struck
repeatedly (e.g., 1602, with 34 major events recorded 580–2001). The
city remained fortified and bordered Savoy. Classic urban development
continued, including the Hôtel-Dieu (1761–1770, where the treasure was
found).
French Revolution, Empire, and 19th Century
The
Revolution transformed Mâcon: In 1790, it became the chef-lieu
(prefecture) of the new Saône-et-Loire department. Convents were
secularized or sold; the Ursulines became a prison (holding Lamartine’s
father). The old cathedral was largely demolished in 1799.
Alphonse
de Lamartine (1790–1869), Romantic poet, politician, and historian, was
born in Mâcon; his legacy endures via the esplanade, museum (his
birthplace), and cultural sites. His funeral was held in the new
Saint-Vincent cathedral (Napoleon-financed, built on a Roman temple
site).
Napoleonic era:
Austrian invasions in 1814 (city
liberated twice by French forces).
Napoleon stayed March 13–14, 1815,
at Hôtel du Sauvage en route from Elba.
Post-Hundred Days, Austrians
reoccupied the area.
The 19th century brought modernization:
Territorial expansions (e.g., Faubourg de la Barre in 1773/1832;
Saint-Clément integrations).
Telegraph (1852), PLM railway (1854),
and other lines.
Caserne Duhesme military barracks (1877).
Regional exhibitions (1865) and viticulture growth (Mâcon wines traded
widely).
Telephone network (1891).
Population rose steadily;
the city evolved into an administrative and wine-trading center near
Mâconnais and Beaujolais vineyards (e.g., Pouilly-Fuissé).
20th
Century: World Wars and Post-War Growth
Mâcon participated in WWI
(134th Infantry Regiment departed from local barracks).
In WWII, it
marked the northern edge of the unoccupied “zone libre” (between Paris
and Lyon). On November 11, 1942 (Operation Anton), ~800 German troops
crossed the demarcation line; buildings were requisitioned as
Kommandantur. Resistance grew immediately. Tragedies included the 1944
Milice assassination of Jewish doctor Léon Israël and revenge killings
(e.g., five on June 28, 1944). Germans/Milice destroyed infrastructure
during retreat (station, bridges). Liberation came September 4, 1944,
via Maquis forces from Cluny and Provence-landed troops (2nd Algerian
Reconnaissance Regiment first); General de Lattre de Tassigny reviewed
forces soon after.
Post-war:
Mergers expanded the commune
(e.g., Flacé-lès-Mâcon 1965; others 1971–1972).
Urban projects under
Mayor Louis Escande (1953–1977) included modern housing but some
historic demolitions.
Infrastructure boomed: TGV station (1981), A406
bypass (2011).
Economy diversified into logistics, metallurgy, and
wine (port remains active; ~49 million bottles annually from surrounding
vineyards).
Cultural sites like the Musée des Ursulines (in a
17th-century convent) preserve heritage.
Into the 21st Century
Mâcon continues as southern Burgundy’s capital, blending history with
modernity. Key projects include esplanade renovations, leisure ponds,
fiber optics, and flood defenses. It hosts wine fairs, festivals, and
sports (e.g., rugby, tennis). Political stability under long-serving
mayors (e.g., Jean-Patrick Courtois since 2001) and intercommunality
(Mâconnais Beaujolais Agglomération) support growth. Population hovers
around 35,000 in the commune (larger urban area ~63,000), with strong
tourism tied to its Romanesque roofs, bridges (restored 14th-century
Pont Saint-Laurent), half-timbered houses (e.g., Maison de Bois,
1490–1510), and Lamartine connections. Its wine AOC and strategic
location ensure ongoing relevance.
The city extends on the western bank of the Saône, between the Bresse
to the east and the Beaujolais mountains to the south. Mâcon is the
southernmost town in the Burgundy-Franche-Comté region, which gives it,
with its Romanesque tiled roofs and its colorful facades, a little air
of a southern town.
Surrounded by the vineyards of the Mâconnais,
the plain in which Mâcon is located is wedged between the Jura massif
and the Massif central through the Mâconnais mountains, the latter being
close to the town (Pierreclos, Serrières and Cenves form the
north-eastern border of the massif).
It is located 32 kilometers
west of Bourg-en-Bresse (prefecture of the department of Ain whose
commune borders), 53 kilometers south of Chalon-sur-Saône
(sub-prefecture of Saône-et-Loire), 61 kilometers north of Lyon, 400
kilometers south of Paris, and 150 kilometers west of Geneva.
The
territory of Mâcon has been formed of two parts since 1972: the northern
part constitutes the associated municipalities of Saint-Jean-le-Priche
and Sennecé-lès-Mâcon, and the southern part is formed by the historical
part of the city and by the associated municipality of Loché. The area
of the municipality is 2,699 hectares, including 580 hectares of green
spaces.
Courtyards and water bodies
The Saône borders the city and marks
the border with the department of Ain. The city developed on the right
bank of the river, which still remains today an element structuring the
city.
Other rivers crisscross the town such as the Abyss which
crosses the old town of Flacé or the Small Grosne which separates Loché
from the rest of Mâcon. In the associated town of Sennecé-lès-Mâcon,
there is the Bonnetin stream. The three rivers flow into the Saône at
Mâcon.
Regarding the bodies of water, there are a few of them,
two of which form the two ports of the city. In addition, three ponds
dedicated to recreation were built in 2014 to the south of the city
around the RCEA. These three planes are the Cedar, Beaulieu and Noyerats
ponds.
The floods of the Saône are frequent. As a result, the floodplain
meadows of the Saône Valley, located on the other bank, are regularly
found under water. Sometimes, when the floods are more significant, the
streets of Mâcon are also under water. Between 580 and 2001, there were
34 major floods. It is only since 1640 that there are numerical data of
these phenomena following the establishment of a saonometer.
A
few episodes marked the flood, including the first referenced in 580
where Gregory of Tours relates a real disaster which was followed by
famines and epidemics. Since the appearance of measured data, three have
seen the waters reach a height of more than 6.9 m. In second place tied,
we find the years 1711 and 1955 with a recorded height of 6.95 m. The
most important phenomenon was that of November 1840, month during which
the recorded rating was 8.05 m.
To limit the damage generated by
the floods, the banks of the Saône have been the subject of heavy
improvements since the 1950s. Nevertheless, the frequency of the latter
tends to increase since there was a 36-year gap between two floods over
the period 1640 - 1896 compared to 5.8 years between 1904 and 2001 (the
year of the last major flood).
In 2010, the climate of the municipality is of the altered oceanic
climate type, according to a study by the National Center for Scientific
Research based on a series of data covering the period 1971-2000. In
2020, Météo-France publishes a typology of the climates of metropolitan
France in which the municipality is in a transition zone between the
altered oceanic climate and the altered oceanic climate and is in the
Burgundy climatic region, Saône Valley, characterized by good sunshine
(1,900 h / year), a hot summer (18.5 ° C), dry air in spring and summer
and weak winds.
For the period 1971-2000, the average annual
temperature is 12 ° C, with an annual thermal amplitude of 18.1 ° C. The
average annual cumulative rainfall is 827 mm, with 10.5 days of
precipitation in January and 6.9 days in July. For the period 1991-2020,
the annual average temperature observed on the nearest Météo-France
meteorological station, "Mâcon", in the town of Charnay-lès-Mâcon 3 km
as the crow flies, is 12.3 ° C and the average annual cumulative
rainfall is 833.7 mm. The maximum temperature recorded on this station
is 39.8 ° C, reached on August 13, 2003; the minimum temperature is
-21.4 ° C, reached on February 15, 1956.
The climate parameters
of the municipality have been estimated for the middle of the century
(2041-2070) according to different greenhouse gas emission scenarios
based on the new DRIAS-202012 reference climate projections. They can be
consulted on a dedicated website published by Météo-France in November
2022