Nonza is a charming, historic commune in the Haute-Corse department on the island of Corsica, nestled within the Cap Corse peninsula. Part of the Arrondissement of Bastia and the Canton of Cap Corse, it is governed by Mayor Jean-Marie Dominici, elected in 2020. Perched dramatically on a cliff over 100 meters above a striking black pebble beach, Nonza is a quintessential Corsican village, blending ancient heritage with breathtaking coastal scenery. Celebrated as one of Corsica’s most picturesque spots, it was voted a favorite village by the French in 2016. With a population of just 63 in 2022, Nonza offers a serene escape for visitors seeking authentic island life, panoramic views, and stories tied to Saint Julie, Corsica’s patron saint.
Nonza covers 8.04 square kilometers, with elevations ranging from sea level to 841 meters, averaging 120 meters, creating a rugged landscape of cliffs, headlands, and coastal slopes. Located at approximately 42.7853°N, 9.3450°E, it sits on the western coast of Cap Corse, a narrow peninsula jutting into the Mediterranean Sea. The village clings to a rocky promontory, offering sweeping vistas of the sea, mountains, and its unique black pebble beach below, colored by serpentine residues from a former asbestos mine. The surrounding area includes prehistoric cave sites like Grotta Scritta and features a Mediterranean climate with mild winters, warm summers, and oceanic influences, ideal for coastal exploration.
Nonza ranks among Corsica’s oldest settlements, with evidence of
prehistoric occupation, including cave paintings at Grotta Scritta. In
Roman times, it served as a surveillance camp called Castrum Nuntia,
meaning "herald," overlooking the coast. Its status as a village was
formalized in 1109, though its roots are older. A 12th-century castle
once stood on the promontory but was destroyed by Genoese forces in 1489
during regional conflicts. The village is steeped in the legend of Saint
Julie, martyred there in late Roman times for refusing to renounce her
Christian faith; a spring, Fontaine des Mamelles, is said to have
emerged from her wounds.
In the 18th century, Nonza supported Pascal
Paoli’s 1757 bid for Corsican independence from Genoa. The Paoline
Tower, a square structure built in 1760 on castle ruins, became iconic
during a 1768 siege against French forces, where legend holds a lone
Corsican soldier tricked the enemy into retreating by simulating a
larger garrison. Genoa ceded Corsica to France in 1768 to settle debts.
The 19th century saw emigration from Cap Corse due to economic
challenges, while an asbestos mine operated nearby until 1965, leaving
environmental traces on the beach. Today, Nonza preserves its heritage
through restored sites and cultural narratives.
Nonza’s economy is small-scale and tourism-focused due to its size and remote location. Local activities include producing Cap Corse wine and charcuterie, alongside cafes, restaurants, and gift shops serving visitors. The 1965 closure of the asbestos mine shifted emphasis to heritage and eco-tourism. The population in 2022 is 63, with a density of 7.8 inhabitants per square kilometer, reflecting a close-knit community of Nonzais. Historical demographics show fluctuations: from 61 in 1962, it peaked at 137 in 1968 (likely due to temporary economic factors), then declined to 71 in 1975, 68 in 1982, 86 in 1990, 67 in 1999, and 66 in 2008. This mirrors rural depopulation trends in Corsica, with residents often elderly or tied to seasonal tourism.
Nonza’s culture centers on Corsican traditions, including storytelling, local cuisine, and devotion to Saint Julie. The Church of Sainte-Julie, originally 14th-century, was rebuilt around 1575 and expanded in the 19th century, featuring a tripartite facade, ogival bell tower, painted ceilings, a marble high altar from a former Franciscan convent, and notable artworks. The nearby Chapel of the Confrerie Santa-Croce adds to the religious heritage. The Paoline Tower, a three-floor square structure at 167 meters above sea level, built on 11th-12th century castle ruins, now houses a bar-restaurant called La Sassa and symbolizes resistance. The Fontaine des Mamelles, linked to Saint Julie’s martyrdom, flows near the beach, accessible via 54 steps. The village’s medieval, cobbled streets and cliffside stone houses create a timeless atmosphere. Summer festivals celebrate Corsican food, wine, and history.
Nonza is a magnet for tourists seeking scenic beauty and a relaxed pace, ideal for short visits or day trips. Key attractions include climbing the Paoline Tower (125 steps) for panoramic views of the black pebble beach, mountains, and coast; wandering the village’s medieval streets to admire cliffside houses and the church; and descending 150 steep steps (about 10 minutes) to the black pebble beach, where swimming is prohibited due to strong currents, but visitors create white stone messages visible from above. Activities include cliffside hiking, sunset viewing from the citadel overlooking the Desert des Agriates, and dining on Corsican specialties like charcuterie, pizzas, salads, and local wines or Birra Corsa beer at spots like Café de la Tour or La Sassa. The Trou de Diable offers a unique coastal vantage point. In 2025, Nonza remains popular for cyclists and road trippers, with events tied to Corsican heritage. Visitors should plan 1-2 hours, more for meals, and wear sturdy shoes for steps. Public toilets are available in the village center, and early or late visits avoid crowds.
Nonza is primarily accessed by car via the scenic D80 road circling Cap Corse, with narrow, winding sections requiring careful driving, especially in summer. Travel times include 30 minutes from Saint-Florent, 1 hour from Bastia (clockwise), and 1 hour 15 minutes from Mattei Mill. Parking is limited, with spots along the road north or south of the village. Public transport is minimal, though regional buses may connect to nearby towns like Saint-Florent or Bastia. The village is walkable but steep. Ferries arrive at Bastia or Calvi ports, followed by rental car drives; Bastia Airport is about 1 hour away. Cyclists frequent the area, adding to road dynamics.