Saulieu is a charming rural commune in the Côte-d’Or department of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region in eastern France. Known as the capital of the Morvan area, it is nestled within the Morvan Regional Natural Park, a forested, hilly region ideal for outdoor activities. With a population of 2,269 as of 2022, its residents are called Sédélociens. Located 250 km southeast of Paris along the historic RN6 road, Saulieu is celebrated for its gastronomic heritage, particularly the Relais Bernard Loiseau, a two-star Michelin restaurant. The commune blends Romanesque architecture, culinary excellence, and natural beauty, making it a draw for tourists. Martine Mazilly has served as mayor from 2020 to 2026. Saulieu’s INSEE code is 21584, and its postal code is 21210.
Saulieu is situated at coordinates 47°16′51″N 4°13′46″E, spanning
32.03 square kilometers. Elevations range from 394 to 596 meters,
averaging 545 meters, within the hilly Morvan massif. Part of the
arrondissement of Montbard and the canton of Semur-en-Auxois, it belongs
to the CC Saulieu-Morvan intercommunality. The landscape features
forests, meadows, and valleys, supporting the biodiversity of the Morvan
Regional Natural Park.
The climate is warm, temperate oceanic
(Köppen: Cfb), with consistent rainfall year-round, totaling 800–900 mm
annually. Temperatures average 7°C in January (with cooler nights) and
26°C in July. Winters are mild but often foggy, while summers are warm
without extreme heat. Historical weather data since 1940 show stable
patterns, with occasional regional variations. As of August 2025, air
quality is moderate, with an Air Quality Index of 50–60, primarily
influenced by PM2.5 levels.
Saulieu’s history dates to Roman times, when it was called Sidolocus or Sedelocus, evidenced by tombs and engravings in nearby hills. As a walled town, it grew strategically in the Morvan. The Basilica of Saint Andoche, founded in the 6th century and rebuilt in the 12th, became a religious hub. During the medieval period, Saulieu was a fortified settlement. In the 20th century, its position on the N6 highway made it a bustling way-station for travelers until the 1960s. Gastronomic fame surged under chef Bernard Loiseau, who earned three Michelin stars for Relais Bernard Loiseau before his death in 2003. The Basilica of Saint Andoche gained Minor Basilica status in 1919, cementing its historical significance.
Saulieu’s economy centers on gastronomy, tourism, and rural activities. The Relais Bernard Loiseau, with its restaurants, hotels, and spas, is a major economic driver, attracting high-end visitors. In 2022, the commune hosted 14 agriculture, forestry, and fishing businesses; 282 industrial firms; 68 in construction; and numerous trade, transport, and service enterprises. The Saturday market in the town square sells local produce and crafts, supporting small businesses. The Bernard Loiseau S.A. company reported share prices of €2.90–€4.00 in 2021 and a 2025 gender equality index of 87 based on 2024 data. Tourism thrives due to the Morvan Park’s hiking and nature offerings. The decline of highway stopovers due to modern bypasses has shifted focus to culinary tourism, with Relais Routiers providing affordable traditional meals.
Saulieu’s population was 2,269 in 2022, down 7.05% from 2,441 in 2016, with a density of 71 inhabitants per square kilometer. Historical peaks include 3,583 in 1901, with a general decline since: 3,023 in 1836 and stabilization at 2,200–2,500 since the 1990s. Recent annual changes range from -1.62% to +0.66%. Estimates for 2025 hold steady at around 2,269, reflecting an aging demographic typical of rural France. The commune’s agglomeration mirrors this small, tight-knit community.
Saulieu’s culture is rooted in its religious and artistic heritage. The Basilica of Saint Andoche boasts over 60 Romanesque carved capitals depicting biblical scenes, like the Flight into Egypt, and unique motifs, such as a cockfight. The François Pompon Museum showcases the sculptor’s animalier works. Local festivals and markets celebrate Burgundian traditions, with gastronomy as a cultural pillar—Saulieu is a beacon of fine French cuisine. Education is managed regionally, with primary schools in the commune and secondary schools in nearby Semur-en-Auxois. Cultural events emphasize art, history, and community engagement in this rural setting.
The Basilica of Saint Andoche, a 12th-century Romanesque church, features a west portal, intricate capitals, and the tomb of Saint Andoche. The 13th-century Church of Saint-Saturnin includes Gallo-Roman graves in its cemetery. The François Pompon Museum highlights regional art. The town square’s market, the Morvan Park for outdoor activities, and nearby Château de Thil ruins are key draws. The Relais Bernard Loiseau complex, with its luxury hotel and spa, appeals to upscale visitors.
Saulieu lies on the historic RN6 (now D906), connecting Paris to Lyon, though modern highways like the A6 (exit 23 near Semur-en-Auxois, 25 km away) bypass it. Regional buses link to Dijon and other towns, and the nearest TGV station is in Montbard (40 km). Dijon-Bourgogne Airport is 70 km away. The town is walkable, with cycling and hiking trails in the Morvan Park popular among visitors.
In 2024, Saulieu hosted the Olympic flame on July 12, drawing crowds and media coverage. The Relais Bernard Loiseau completed a €6 million renovation, opening a 1,500-square-meter sensorial wellness center in 2023–2024. In April 2025, chef Louis-Philippe Vigilant, of Caribbean origin, took over the Côte d’Or kitchen, adding diversity amid France’s evolving cultural landscape. The CCI de Saulieu event is set for June 21–24, 2025, promoted regionally. Air quality remains moderate, and 2025 tourism guides emphasize gastronomy and nature. Bernard Loiseau S.A. maintains financial stability, with ongoing gender equality efforts.