Semur-en-Auxois is a French commune with 4139 inhabitants (as of January 1, 2017) in the Côte-d’Or department. Until his death under the guillotine in 1793, the castle of his birthplace was owned by Louis Marie Florent de Lomont d'Haraucourt, duc du Châtelet.
Located to the west of the Côte-d'Or, in the heart of Burgundy, emerging from a loop of the Armançon, Semur-en-Auxois stands on a plateau of pink granite. The city is located in the largest of the four valleys forming the Pays d'Auxois (region), at the crossroads of the foothills of the Morvan, the plains of Châtillonnais and the outskirts of the Autunois. Located on the D 980 departmental road between Montbard and Saulieu, Semur-en-Auxois is an exit from the A6 motorway.
The Notre-Dame Collegiate Church
The former Notre-Dame collegiate church in Semur-en-Auxois
(Côte-d’Or department) is one of the lesser-known masterpieces of
Gothic architecture in Burgundy.
The monastery was founded in
1060 or 1065 by Duke Robert I of Burgundy. The increasing pilgrimage
(Semur was also a station on a branch route of the Way of St. James)
made a new building necessary, which was started in 1225. In the
14th century the west facade with vestibule and the crossing tower
were built. From 1844 a thorough restoration was carried out by
Viollet-le-Duc.
The building is a three-aisled basilica with
a double-tower facade, a transept with an octagonal crossing tower
and a five-aisled choir with a gallery and radial chapels. Most
comparable to the Cathedral of Auxerre and Notre-Dame de Dijon, the
collegiate church of Semur represents the classic Gothic
architectural style of Burgundy on a smaller scale. The choir and
transept are divided into three floors. The double-shell or
“diaphane” wall, which is particularly pronounced in Burgundy, can
be seen here in the triforium and in the upper aisle with a walkway.
In the choir, the arcades are supported by massive round pillars
with bud capitals, above the fighters the services sit on cube
consoles, just like in the nave of Dijon. Typically Burgundy are the
services in the upper storey area, which are at staggered heights.
The main nave was also originally three-story, the triforium was
removed during the renovation in the 14th century. Otherwise, the
shapes of the 13th century, the cantoned round pillars, the walkway
and the immaculate lancet windows characterize the building.
Characteristic for Semur is the ratio of height and width in the
nave and choir, which gives the room a steep slenderness. This
impression is underlined by the uninterrupted service in the nave up
to the vaults (see Clamecy).
The church had a three-portal
system with an extensive program of figures, which, however, was
completely destroyed. The Madonna standing on the Trumeau today was
subsequently placed here. Late Gothic stone figures of the
evangelists have been preserved above the vestibule. At the crossing
tower you can see figures with amphorae, which symbolize the rivers
of Paradise. The delightful side portal, which was formerly
protected by a two-storey vestibule, shows the story of the Apostle
Thomas in the tympanum with the following scenes: The disbelief of
Thomas. The sea voyage to India. The feast at which the cook slaps
Thomas, whereupon the cook's hand falls off. Thomas distributes the
money he received from the king for building the palace to the poor.
The king puts him in jail. The king is converted when Thomas
explains to him that he has acquired a palace in heaven through the
gifts to the poor. Representations of the monthly work appear in the
archivolts.
The church has rich furnishings from the 15th to
17th centuries with glass windows, stone sculptures, wood and metal
work. Particularly noteworthy is an entombment group from the end of
the 15th century, transferred from the Carmelite Convent in 1791,
which is considered to be one of the most beautiful of its kind in
Burgundy and is stylistically close to Pierre Antoine de Moiturier
(cf. the tomb of Johann Ohnefurcht from the Chartreuse de Champmol
).
The Porte Sauvigny, a former city gate
The four remaining
round towers of the former citadel fortifications
The Pont Joly,
a bridge with a picturesque view of the city
Ancient and Early Periods
The history of Semur-en-Auxois traces
back to prehistoric times, with geological ties to the Jurassic Period
evident in the region's landscape, though human settlement began later.
Legends attribute its founding to the mythical Hercules upon his return
from Spain, symbolizing its ancient allure. Historical records first
mention the town in the 6th century, with evidence of a castle by the
7th century. During the Roman era, the area likely served as a minor
settlement, given its proximity to key trade routes in Burgundy. The
Armançon River powered early industries like tanneries and mills, laying
the foundation for economic growth.
In the early medieval period,
Semur-en-Auxois emerged as a fortified site under monastic influence,
reflecting Burgundy's role as a center of Christian monasticism. By the
13th century, it had developed into a significant town, with the
construction of a fortified castle highlighting its defensive importance
amid feudal conflicts in the region.
Medieval Period
The
medieval era marked Semur-en-Auxois's golden age, transforming it into a
fortified stronghold. In 1225, the Collégiale Notre-Dame was founded, a
flamboyant Gothic church that became a central religious landmark. Its
north tympanum depicts the legend of St. Thomas, and it exemplifies the
architectural prowess of the time. The town's ramparts and towers,
including the iconic Tour de l'Orle d'Or (44 meters high with
5-meter-thick walls), Tour de la Gehenne, Tour de la Prison, and Tour
Margot, were erected in the 13th century to protect against invasions.
These structures, encircling more than half the town along the Armançon,
underscore its role as a defensive bastion in Burgundy.
By the 15th
century, the Porte Sauvigny gate was constructed, serving as the main
entrance and further enhancing the fortifications. The town thrived as a
monastic center, with institutions like the Carmelite college educating
figures such as the renowned military engineer Vauban (1633–1707), who
later influenced French fortifications nationwide. Bridges like Pont
Joly, Pont Pinard, and Pont des Minimes facilitated trade and
connectivity, offering scenic views that highlight the town's
integration with its natural surroundings.
Early Modern Period:
Conflicts and Transformations
The 17th century brought changes, with
the fortified castle being dismantled in 1602 under orders from King
Henry IV, reducing its military role but preserving remnants for
posterity. Despite this, Semur-en-Auxois remained influential, producing
notable figures like Philippe Guéneau de Montbeillard (1720–1785), an
Encyclopédiste who contributed to the Enlightenment, and engineers such
as Edmé Régnier L'Aîné (1751–1825) and Émile Dorand (1866–1922). The
town navigated the religious wars and feudal shifts in Burgundy,
maintaining its monastic traditions amid broader French conflicts.
In
the 19th century, the Collégiale Notre-Dame was restored by architect
Eugène Viollet-le-Duc, preserving its Gothic splendor. The construction
of the Lac de Pont dam upstream in the 1880s regulated the Armançon
River for the Canal de Bourgogne, impacting local industries but aiding
navigation and water supply. Population fluctuations occurred, peaking
at 5,065 in 1806 before declining to 3,009 by 1921, reflecting economic
shifts from agriculture and trade to emerging industrialization.
Modern Period
In the 20th century, Semur-en-Auxois transitioned into
a cultural and tourist destination, emphasizing its medieval heritage.
It served as the starting point for Stage 6 of the 2007 Tour de France,
boosting its international profile. Politician François Patriat, born in
the town, has represented it in French politics, underscoring its
continued relevance.
Today, under Mayor Catherine Sadon (2020–2026),
the town focuses on preservation and tourism, with rampart promenades
offering river views and events celebrating Burgundian culture. Its
orange-roofed houses, ancient stone walls, and monastic history draw
visitors, positioning it as a gateway to Burgundy's past. Recent
developments include efforts to maintain its historic core amid modern
challenges, solidifying Semur-en-Auxois as a living testament to French
medieval resilience.