Troyes is a French commune, located in the department of Aube (of
which it is the prefecture) in the Grand Est region. The town is
divided into five cantons of which it is the capital. With a legal
population of 61,652 inhabitants in 2017, the city of Troyes is the
seventh most populous municipality in the region behind Colmar and
ahead of Charleville-Mézières and Châlons-en-Champagne. It is the
center of the Troyes Champagne Métropole agglomeration community,
170,145 inhabitants in 2016, which since January 1, 2017 replaces
Grand Troyes. It stretches for about fifteen kilometers along the
valley of the Seine.
Its historical past, from the tribe of
Tricasses to the liberation of the city on August 25, 1944 during
the Second World War, through the battle of the Catalaunic fields,
the Council of Troyes, the marriage of Henri V and Catherine de
France and the Champagne fairs as well as its rich architectural and
urban heritage with its many buildings protected as historical
monuments, have enabled Troyes to be designated City of Art and
History by the National Committee of Cities and Towns. Country of
art and history. The troy ounce, unit of measurement of precious
metals since the Champagne fairs, takes its name from the city.
Textiles, developed from the 18th century, were one of the
historical assets of the Trojan economy until the 1960s; Troyes is
today the European capital of factory outlets and merchants thanks
to its three brand centers.
The Pays Barséquanais with its
expanses of champagne vineyards has many gastronomic assets. From a
geographical and tourist point of view, the Seine remains the main
advantage with the proximity of the regional natural park of the
Orient forest and the lake-reservoir of the Orient lake, a wildlife
and relaxation reserve. Troyes, a capital city steeped in history,
geographically located in the center of the department, is seeing
the development of green tourism around it: in addition to the
Orient Forest park, the Pays d'Othe and the Pays d'Armance offer
their hilly, wooded and plains expanses.
Historic Center and Half-Timbered Architecture
Troyes boasts one
of France’s largest concentrations of colorful medieval and Renaissance
half-timbered (pans de bois) houses—around 3,000 in the city—many
rebuilt after a major fire in 1524. These structures lean charmingly,
with intricate wood framing, vibrant paintwork, and overhanging upper
floors.
Rue Champeaux: The main pedestrian artery through the old
town, lined with the most photogenic half-timbered buildings, shops, and
cafés. It serves as a perfect starting point for exploration.
Ruelle
des Chats (Cats’ Alley): Troyes’ most iconic and narrowest street,
squeezed between buildings so close that cats could supposedly leap
between roofs (hence the name and the city’s cat mascot). It features
ancient paving with a central drainage channel, protective stone
bollards against carts, and leads to the picturesque Cour du Mortier
d’Or courtyard. It perfectly captures medieval Troyes’ atmosphere.
Wandering these streets feels like stepping back in time, especially in
the pedestrianized historic core around Place Alexandre Israël.
Major Churches and Religious Landmarks
Troyes has about 10 churches
in the city center, many showcasing exceptional stained glass (the Aube
region holds a huge share of France’s medieval vitrail heritage).
Cathédrale Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul (Troyes Cathedral): The city’s
crowning landmark, a Gothic masterpiece built from 1208 to the 17th
century. It features:
Elegant proportions (114m long, 28.5m high).
Over 1,500 m² of stained glass, including 13th-century windows in the
choir (biblical scenes, Tree of Jesse) and works by master glassmaker
Linard Gonthier.
Flamboyant west façade with three portals (designed
by Martin Chambiges), intricate sculptures, and gargoyles.
One
completed tower (the other was never built).
Interior highlights:
choir stalls from Clairvaux Abbey, a grand 18th-century organ, and a
treasury with medieval relics like a Byzantine ivory casket.
The
cathedral evolved through Pure, Rayonnant, and Flamboyant Gothic phases,
remaining remarkably harmonious. It hosted major events, including the
1420 Treaty of Troyes signing and a visit by Joan of Arc.
Basilique
Saint-Urbain: A pure 13th-century Gothic jewel founded by Pope Urban IV
(a native of Troyes) on the site of his birthplace. Known as the
"Parthenon of Champagne," it impresses with its soaring lightness,
delicate stone tracery ("dentelles de pierre"), immense stained-glass
windows, and elegant proportions. Consecrated in 1389 and elevated to
basilica status in 1964, it contains the pope’s remains.
Église
Sainte-Madeleine: The oldest church in Troyes (dating to 1120, with
major 13th–16th century elements). It features a remarkable Renaissance
rood screen (one of the finest in France), intricate stone carvings,
statues, and beautiful stained glass.
Other notable churches include:
Église Saint-Jean-au-Marché (site of Henry V of England’s marriage to
Catherine of Valois in 1420).
Église Saint-Pantaléon (baroque
elements, height, light, and 16th-century statues).
Museums and
Cultural Sites
Cité du Vitrail: A modern interpretation center in the
historic Hôtel-Dieu-le-Comte, dedicated to Troyes’ world-class stained
glass heritage. It displays originals at eye level, explains techniques
from medieval to contemporary, and offers immersive exhibits.
Musée
d’Art Moderne (MAM): Housed in the former Bishop’s Palace, it features
an outstanding collection (Pierre and Denise Lévy) with works by
Courbet, Matisse, Picasso, Derain, and others—strong in realism to
abstraction.
Maison de l’Outil et de la Pensée Ouvrière (MOPO): A
unique museum celebrating tools, trades, and craftsmanship with creative
displays of thousands of historic implements.
Hôtel de Vauluisant:
Focuses on hosiery (Troyes’ historic industry) and local arts.
Other
sites: Apothicairerie (historic pharmacy), archaeological and fine arts
museums, and Maison Rachi (Jewish heritage tied to the famous medieval
scholar).
Other Highlights
Hôtel-Dieu-le-Comte: Beautiful
18th-century ensemble with gardens.
Quays and Gardens: Peaceful spots
like Jardin des Innocents or areas along the Seine canals.
Modern
Attractions: Nearby McArthurGlen Troyes outlet shopping, though the
historic core remains the main draw.
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April–June) and Fall
(September–October): Ideal for pleasant walking weather, fewer crowds,
and beautiful light on the old buildings.
Summer: Busier; book
accommodations and restaurants ahead. Great for outdoor cafés but
hotter.
Winter: Quieter, possible snow on the timbered houses
(magical but cold), and some museums offer free entry. The Nuits de
Champagne music festival happens at the end of October.
How to
Get There
From Paris: Fastest and easiest is the direct train from
Gare de l’Est (about 1.5 hours, ~€33 one way, frequent departures). The
station is a short walk to the historic center.
By Car: ~2–2.5 hours
from Paris via A5. Convenient stopover from Calais (4 hours) or heading
south. Free parking available near Le Cube exhibition center on the edge
of the old town.
Nearby: Good base for Champagne exploration
(Montgueux vineyards are just 10 km away).
The city is very
pedestrian-friendly; rent a bike or just wander.
Top Things to Do
Troyes is perfect for slow, immersive wandering — the old town ("Le
Bouchon," shaped like a champagne cork) is the star.
Explore the
Historic Center & Half-Timbered Houses
Wander cobbled streets like
Rue Champeaux, admire the leaning, colorful medieval and Renaissance
buildings (over 3,000 in the area). Look for hidden courtyards and
timber details. Follow the self-guided walking route marked by bronze
Templar knight plaques on the ground (maps from the tourist office).
Ruelle des Chats (Cats’ Alley)
A narrow, atmospheric passage
where cats could historically jump between rooftops. One of the most
photogenic spots, especially at dusk.
Churches & Stained Glass
Troyes and the Aube region hold a huge concentration of exceptional
stained glass (some 850+ years old). Highlights:
Cathédrale
Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul: Massive Gothic cathedral with soaring
architecture and beautiful windows.
Église Sainte-Madeleine:
Renaissance rood screen (stone "lacework").
Others like
Saint-Pantaléon (statues) and more.
Visit the Cité du Vitrail
(Stained Glass City) museum for deeper context.
Museums (many
affordable or free on first Sundays):
Maison de l’Outil et de la
Pensée Ouvrière (MOPO): Fascinating collection of historic tools and
crafts.
Musée d’Art Moderne: World-class modern art.
Others:
Apothecary museum, hosiery museum, fine arts.
Champagne & Local
Tastings
Troyes is in the Aube Champagne area (produces ~25% of the
region’s bubbly). Visit nearby Montgueux vineyards for views and
tastings. Many bars and shops in town offer local Champagnes and
Prunelle de Troyes (sloe liqueur).
Shopping
Factory outlets
(McArthurGlen Troyes) for brands, plus local chocolates, Chaource
cheese, and crafts.
Other Activities: Canal walks, boat/kayak on the
Seine, nearby nature hikes, or day trips to smaller Champagne villages.
Food & Drink Recommendations
Local Specialty: Andouillette de
Troyes (pork tripe sausage) — adventurous eaters should try it.
Top
Spots: Aux Crieurs de Vin (wine bar, organic), Claire et Hugo
(seasonal), Caffè Cosi (Italian), Le Petit Basson (garden produce), or
places along Ruelle des Chats.
Pastries: Maison Caffet for excellent
éclairs.
Markets: Saturday Grand Marché for local produce.
Restaurants are often small — reserve ahead, especially evenings.
Where to Stay
Boutique/Charming: Maison M (canal-side B&B), La
Maison de Rhodes or Le Champ des Oiseaux (historic luxury).
Mid-range: Modern hotels like Ibis Styles.
Budget: Youth hostel or
apartments (~€100/night in center).
Practical Tips
Tourist
Office: Excellent resource in the center — get maps, audio guides, City
Pass (saves on attractions/activities), and book tours.
Duration: 1–2
full days is enough for the center; add more for Champagne outings or
relaxation.
Accessibility: Mostly flat but cobblestones; some narrow
alleys.
Language: French dominant; English spoken in tourist spots.
Costs: Affordable compared to Paris — reasonable meals, free churches,
low museum fees.
Day Trip from Paris: Very doable and rewarding.
The city of Troyes, historic capital of the Counts of Champagne,
and with a great historical past and a rich architectural and urban
heritage, was designated City of Art and History on June 5, 2009.
The convention was signed in February 2010.
Antiquity: birth
of Troyes
The first inhabitants to have left tangible traces of
their presence are the Tricasses, a tribe of Gaul in Lyon mentioned
from the 1st century BC in the writings of Greek geographers, even
if some megaliths testify to an older settlement. The city is
mentioned under the name of Augustobona especially during the Gallic
War from the year 58 BC-57 BC, but the name derived from the name of
Tricasses gradually imposed itself under the Lower Empire. The
Lingons, neighbors of this tribe, also lived in the south-eastern
half of the city. At the time of its foundation, during the High
Empire - end of the 1st century BC and early 1st century AD - the
city, then surrounded by vast marshy expanses on its southern
fringes and its northern margins, is the subject of important
operations of drainage in order to accommodate new urban areas. From
the second half of the 1st century, the site of Augustobona has
several public infrastructures of a municipal nature. These
buildings, in particular an aqueduct and possibly a thermal spa
complex, but whose archaeological surveys have only found a few
vestiges, alternate with residential areas. At that time, the
hydraulic engineering structure, by means of a pipe designed using
small-sized mœllons, then made it possible to distribute drinking
water to the various public and private places of the city of
Champagne. During this period, the urban ensemble of the city of
Troyes, in ancient form, therefore covers an area of approximately
80 ha, a space between the Porte de Chaillouet, to the north, and
the Place du Professeur-Langevin to the north. south; as well as
between the Faubourg Saint-Jacques, to the west, and the rue
Jeanne-d'Arc to the east. After this urban development, during the
years 120 AD, the Roman Emperor Hadrian stays in the city with his
troops. At the beginning of Late Antiquity, around 380 AD, the
Trojan city, which is at that time renamed under the name of Civitas
Tricassium, is then enclosed by a vast fortified wall.
It is
to the west of the city, towards Méry-sur-Seine, or, more likely, in
Dierrey-Saint-Julien (at a place called Moirey) that the battle of
the Catalaunic fields took place in 451.
On June 20, when
Attila was driven back to Orleans by the Romans, Loup de Troyes,
bishop of the city, went to his camp and begged him to "spare a
defenseless city, because it had no walls. nor soldiers ”. Attila
would have answered him: “Very well! But you will come with me and
you will see the Rhine; I promise to send you back then ”. The Huns
are still stopped in the plains close to Troyes, called Catalaunic
fields, by the Romans and by the Franks commanded by Mérovée as well
as their allies. Attila is defeated. The king of the Visigoths,
Theodoric, is killed there. The battle of Mauriac, or Campus
Mauriacus, another historical term used to refer to the conflict of
the Catalaunic fields, definitively drives out the Huns of Gaul.
Middle Ages
From Clovis to the county of Troyes
In 484,
Clovis seizes Troyes and its surroundings which will be called
Champagne (campania) because of the immense chalky plains. Champagne
is attributed to the kingdom of Austrasia, after the division of the
possessions of Clovis in 511, except Troyes and its region which are
attributed to Clodomir. It was not until 524, following the death of
the King of Orleans, that she joined Austrasia until 558, when
Clotaire I was proclaimed King of the Franks. In 567, the city of
Troyes was placed in the kingdom of Burgundy. Between 592 and 613,
it rejoins Austrasia. On the death of Clotaire II in 629, the city
again depends on Burgundy.
The city is controlled and
plundered by the Saracens of Spain in 720. La Vita Sancti Fidoti,
abbatis Trecensis, life of Fidolin, captive freed by Eventinus, a
priest of Troyes, seems to indicate that at that time, one practiced
the trade there slaves.
In 820, Aleran became the first count of Troyes at the time of
Emperor Louis the Pious. His reign ended with his death in 852. The
territory of Troyes was also, around 860, the price of a struggle
between Bishop Ansegise and Count Rodolphe de Ponthieu who emerged
victorious. During the first Council of Troyes in 878, Louis the
Begu received the imperial crown from the hands of Pope John VIII.
At the same time, Bernard of Gothia, in conflict with Frotaire and
in revolt against King Louis the Stammerer, is excommunicated.
In 888, the city suffered from the Norman incursions then,
according to the Chronicle of Réginon de Prüm, the Normans, in 889,
seize the city, reduce it to ashes and plunder all the surrounding
country. In response to these incursions, at the beginning of the
890s (in 891 or 892), a new fortified wall, of which the base and
the facing were largely formed thanks to the re-use of structures
the Gallo-Roman enclosure, is then erected and deployed around the
city. Subsequently, in 898, according to medieval writings, the
Saint-Loup abbey and the Saint-Pierre church would have been
destroyed. However, archaeological surveys carried out in the
nineteenth century do not allow such chronological accuracy. Troyes
belongs to the Duchy of Burgundy from the end of the ninth century.
In the first half of the tenth century, the Normans repeated
several incursions, in 908, 911 and 925. During this third
incursion, the latter were removed by Ansegise, bishop of Troyes,
who united the counts of Sens, Garnier, and de Dijon, Manassès II,
and the bishop duke of Langres Gosselin II de Bassigny to push them
back to the Bassigny region. The battle against the viking Ragenold
of Nantes (Rögnvald), dated December 6, 925, takes place on a site
mentioned under the toponym of Calaus mons. The place of this
military confrontation may turn out to be located in the current
commune of Chaumont (Haute-Marne), between Milly-la-Forêt and
Barbizon or more probably Chalaux, near the eponymous stream, within
the department. of the Nièvre. During this confrontation, Garnier de
Sens is killed; Ansegise, meanwhile, is injured. Nevertheless,
during this battle, the Norman troops were pushed back and then
defeated.
In 1040, Rabbi Solomon Ben Isaac, better known
under the name of Rashi, was born in Troyes. The rabbi and
philosopher, a great commentator on the Bible and the Talmud,
created an important school of Jewish thought in the city.
The era of the Counts of Champagne
In the 12th century, the
county of Troyes merged with that of Meaux to give birth to the
county of Champagne. Hugues I of Champagne is the first to be
proclaimed in this capacity around the year 1102. In 1129, the
second council of Troyes, which takes place on the site of the
current Saint-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul cathedral, was takes place in the
presence of many religious figures, Hugues de Payns and Count
Thibaut IV of Blois. This council will lead to the creation of a
rule specific to the order of the Temple. In 1188, a large fire
destroyed a large part of the city and devastated the Abbey of
Notre-Dame-aux-Nonnains, the collegiate church of Saint-Étienne, the
palace of the Counts of Champagne and the old cathedral of Troyes,
partially ruined. This fire brought about a reconstruction of this
last building in Gothic architecture. The first windmills appear in
the 12th century. Originally belonging to the Counts of Champagne,
they were bequeathed to the cathedral chapter in order to provide
for the reconstruction of the cathedral. After the cathedral
chapter, the other religious congregations of Troyes in turn built a
windmill to cover the investments. Fifteen mills are attested at the
end of the twelfth century, such as that of Moline or Pielle; the
molendini ad telas and follones. The city is also covered with
monasteries, churches and industries serving the religious.
In 1264, Pope Urban IV established the Feast of the Universal
Church, which would become Corpus Christi. This feast, dedicated to
the Blessed Sacrament, is celebrated on the Thursdays following the
Holy Trinity. From 1273, the town began work to bring water from a
source to supply the city. Champagne is attached to the kingdom of
France by the marriage in 1285 of Jeanne Ire of Navarre with the
future Philippe le Bel. In 1288, an autodafé took place after the
Trojan Jews were accused of ritual murder. On April 24, the court of
the inquisition condemns 13 of them to go up to the stake.
The thirteenth century marked the beginning of the fame of the
Champagne fairs, for which merchants came from all over the West.
These fairs allow the development of many industrial trades such as
textiles, tannery, stationery and dyeing. In Troyes, the celebration
is held during Saint-Jean and Saint-Rémi in the historic streets of
Bouchon de champagne such as rue Champeaux, rue de la Pierre, or rue
des Anciennes-Tanneries.
Producer of linen and hemp sheets,
Troyes has several mills for grinding rags, molendini and telas;
manufacturers thus take advantage of the presence of these linen
merchants to recover raw material from this marketing channel.
Subsequently, the mills of La Pielle (in 1348) and Roy were
transformed into paper mills. Troyes thus became, from the
fourteenth century, a "capital" of paper suppliers in Europe. Around
1470, their buyers came from England - the presence of Trojan paper
in Canterbury is attested - from Holland, or even from Germany.
During the Hundred Years War, the city of Troyes is preparing to
welcome the Anglo-Navarrese. In 1359, the Trojans, led by their
bishop Henri de Poitiers, liberated the towns of Aix-en-Othe,
Beaufort and Nogent-sur-Seine.
Troyes in the late Middle Ages
At the end of the 13th century, Troyes was no longer the capital of
the county of Champagne. This has indeed passed to the kings of
France and Châlons-sur-Marne was preferred as the administrative
capital of Champagne. However, from 1417 to 1422, Troyes was in fact
the capital of the Kingdom of France in the midst of the Hundred
Years War. In 1420, the signing of the Treaty of Troyes designates
the English king Henri V as heir to the crown of France after the
latter marries Catherine de Valois, one of the daughters of Charles
VI. Soon after, however, the Dauphin ascended the throne under the
name of Charles VII. It was Joan of Arc who came to his aid; she
took him from Orleans to Reims to be sacred. On July 9, 1429, Joan
of Arc delivers the city from the English.
In May 1471, Louis
XI confirmed the municipal administration with his letters patent.
A few days before Corpus Christi 1487, a fire broke out in an
apothecary's shop. It lasts several days and destroys a large part
of the city. The fact that it starts at night gives it a certain
speed of expansion, at night increasing fears and hampering the
fight against the fire. The city of Troyes nevertheless had, to
fight against fire, giant syringes which made it possible to water
the hearths more effectively than with buckets. The same year, the
fairs of Bourges are moved to Troyes: indeed, a large part of the
city of Bourges, including the covered markets, was destroyed by a
gigantic fire and it cannot accommodate its fair.
Modern
times
On May 24, 1524, a new fire broke out in the heart of the
medieval town. The main district of the city, about twenty streets,
thousands of houses and several historical and religious monuments
are destroyed. The fire was favored by the presence of numerous
cameræ, small rooms fitted out as lean-tos in the yards to
accommodate the poor among the poor, which provided flammable
material, reduced the firewalls formed by the yards and hampered
disaster relief. This disaster caused a general impoverishment of
the population but led the municipality to demand chimneys made of
non-flammable materials (we could find wooden hoods covered with
plaster) and chimney pipes protruding sufficiently from the roof.
On March 3, 1564, Charles IX passed through the city during his
royal tour of France, accompanied by the Court and the Great of the
Kingdom: his brother the Duke of Anjou, Henri de Navarre, the
cardinals of Bourbon and Lorraine. During his trip, the king submits
in a royal edict of March 29 the ports of Saint-Nazaire and Le
Croisic to the royal seat of Guérande and on April 11 signs a peace
treaty with Queen Elizabeth I of England in Saint Cathedral.
-Pierre-et-Saint-Paul. This treaty allows Calais to become French
once again.
Following Saint-Barthélemy (from August 27 to September 4, 1572),
several dozen Protestants were massacred in Troyes.
In the
mid-1580s, when the events of the 8th War of Religion began to
unfold, Troyes, one of the few towns that had not yet been under the
control of Henri de Guise, appeared as a nucleus of royalist
resistance within the Champagne province. Within the city of Troy,
this opposition to the power of the “Sainte-Union” is notably led by
the Dinteville and the Saint-Phalle.
After the day of the
Barricades, (Thursday May 12, 1588), which saw the occupation of the
city of Paris (May 13), the Guise wanted to take the city. Henri
III, in a letter, addressed to the local council and dated June 2,
enjoins the Trojans not to receive Cardinal de Guise. Thanks to two
leaguers, Yves le Tarlier and Jean de Hault, then archdeacon of the
Saint-Étienne collegiate church, the ecclesiastic however made his
entry on June 10 through the Porte de Croncels and went to the
bishopric. The cardinal, taking part of the local authorities by
surprise, who remained favorable to the royalist current, then made
the Trojan city, during his stay (from June to September), "a second
Paris". Mayor Jean Daubeterre receives him. The lieutenant general
of the bailiwick, Eustache de Mesgrigny, was driven out, along with
others, including canons who remained loyal to the king. They find
refuge in Châlons-en-Champagne, remained faithful to the king, the
city where Joachim de Dinteville is. Cardinal de Guise had the
councilors of Troyes resign. On June 11, 1588, the favorite and
treasurer of Cardinal de Guise, Nicolas de Hault was chosen as mayor
by the general assembly (he remained so until 1592). On June 18, new
councilors are elected by a general assembly. On June 23, the city
sent two delegates, Souin and Goujon de Boulzy, to the capital to
swear loyalty to the League. On July 19, at the parliamentary
assembly in Rouen, a peace pact, induced by the day of the
barricades, was signed between the two opposing parties. On August
19, the city undertakes to respect the Union which has just been
sealed between the Guise party and Henri III. During the month of
September, several Trojan deputies were sent to Blois to the States
General, including, among others, Yves TartierNote 2, Philippe le
Vert, lawyer for the bailiwick of Troyes, and Jacques Angenoust.
The Blue Library designates a first form of so-called “popular”
literature, invented and printed in Troyes in 1602 by the Oudot
brothers, in particular Nicolas Oudot whose sign is the Crowned Gold
Cap. The printing was of poor quality and small in size; notebooks
(similar to a brochure today) covered with a cover of blue-gray
paper (like the inexpensive cover that wrapped sugar loaves), hence
the name which, at the time, was first that of "Blue Books".
This literature, initially urban and local, was then popularized by
hawkers and therefore extended to other urban areas (Rouen, Angers)
and imitated. While remaining cautious, Roger Chartier considers
that it was one of the main sources of culture of the popular masses
in France; others, like Carlo Ginzburg, insist on our ignorance of
the modes of reception of these texts; however, historians agree on
the importance - difficult to measure - of oral culture: illiterates
were content to appreciate the engravings, when there were any, but
most of the time, they could have access to the text when collective
reading sessions. However, a mixed clientele appropriated these
books for nearly two centuries.
Outside France, the Volksbuch
(Germany) and the chapbook (England) were developed at the same
time.
The fairs of Troyes were prohibited during the
seventeenth century. In 1694, they were authorized again. The city
has its royal and military arquebus company of which the colonel is
the governor, the lieutenant-colonel is the lieutenant-general of
the provinces of Champagne and Brie and the captain is the royal
mayor. Its bourgeois militia is divided into four battalions with
four companies, Belfroy, Croncels, Comporté and Saint-Jacques.
Dominoterie was a flourishing industry in Troyes which mainly
made playing cards and occupied more than forty mills around the
city. It declined following a Colbert tax.
Although there had previously existed, during the sixteenth
century, a corporation - the "Community of master bonnetiers of the
city, fauxbourg and suburb of Troyes" -, making, at that time, hats
using a fabric of wool, the first cotton and silk hosiery looms
appeared in Troyes in 1745 thanks to the arrival of the stocking
knitting loom (invented by William Lee in 1589) and the creation of
the first factories. Although the locality of Arcis-sur-Aube, from
the beginning of the 18th century, had previously been the Champagne
heart of an important artisanal activity for this type of textile
production, in 1770, Troyes had forty knit-makers and nearly 1 500
mainly concentrated within its agglomeration from the end of the
1780s. The city then became the capital of hosiery which, despite a
decline from the 1930s, remained a major economic activity until the
1960s.
The Parliament of Paris was transferred to the city in
1787. In 1789, when the city was at the heart of the French
Revolution, the mayor Claude Huez was assassinated after being
wrongly accused of wanting to poison the people.
Contemporary
period
Napoleon Bonaparte made several visits to the city in 1804
and 1814 during his campaign in France.
Within the Champagne
commune, like the whole of the Aube region, the development of the
hosiery industry began in the 1820s with the founding of the first
establishments specializing in this economic sector. At that time,
these structures intended for the manufacture of knitted textiles
were, most of the time, managed by “merchant-manufacturers”. The
foundations of this industrial area were finalized in the 1860s with
the birth of the first factories equipped with mechanized equipment.
In 1834, the city alone employed around 10,000 cotton hosiery trades
and 12,000 workers, for an annual product of nearly 7,000,000
francs.
The city is linked to the capital by the railway in
1845, promoting its development. In 1849 takes place in Troyes the
first festival singing orphéons, organized by Charles Delaporte. It
brings together 200 orpheonists.
Developed from the 1840s,
Troyes, around 1855-1860, became an important center for the
construction of circular looms. The success of the knitwear industry
in the nineteenth century is mainly due to the inventions of the
mechanics of Champagne. English competition is very present; the
English having more boldly used steam, the hosiery manufacturer must
therefore create commercial and export services.
The
exhibition of Troyes in 1860
During the Second Empire, the main
news in Troyes was the progress of the textile industry; the
mechanization of trades and the establishment of numerous factories
are transforming the city's economic and urban landscape. We have to
provide for the needs of the workers. The exhibition of Troyes in
1860 is the showcase of this progress.
Napoleon III gave a
speech in Troyes in 1868. He declared that “Nothing threatens the
peace of Europe”.
The epic of Napoleon III ends with the
occupation of Troyes by the Prussians from November 1870 to August
1871.
The twentieth century
From January 21 to 23, 1910,
the city of Troyes was the victim of serious flooding following the
overflow of the Seine, causing significant damage.
The
success of hosiery, a Trojan industrial sector of the “Belle
Époque”, was confirmed during the interwar period, and many large
companies were created in the city, notably Petit Bateau, Lacoste,
and Sun. Others are created later, notably Absorba.
During
the Second World War, on June 15, 1940, the German army, after
taking Sens, Paris and a large part of the Aube department entered
Troyes. Faced with the bombardments of the Nazis, the Trojans,
panicked, decide to flee the city. After the capture, there will
only be about 4,000 Trojans left in the city.
On August 24,
1944, the German army committed a massacre in Buchères in the south
of the agglomeration of Troyes, commonly known as the “martyrdom of
Buchères”: 68 civilians were executed, many houses were set on fire.
The next day, eight hundred men seized the town and its
agglomeration. The start of the fighting for liberation left around
60 dead and 572 prisoners. The following day, the city of Troyes is
definitively liberated by the troops of General Patton.
Although this industrial area was the subject of diversification
at the local level between 1950 and 1970, from the second half of
the 1960s, the city of Troyes fell victim to the textile crisis.
Indeed, companies are in competition with other countries,
particularly in Southeast Asia and the Far East, and we are
witnessing a disaffection of consumers for stockings. Despite
everything, the town and its agglomeration now have nearly 250
companies linked to textile manufacturing and large factory outlet
centers, making it the leading knitting center in France.
On
January 30, 1976, the Patrick Henry affair began following the
murder of young Philippe Bertrand, eight years old, at the end of
his school year. The trial of Patrick Henry, considered one of the
most famous in recent judicial history in France, has become that of
the death penalty in France. Indeed, the murderer had been sentenced
to life imprisonment while the entourage of family, editorial
writers and politicians demand the death penalty for the crime.
Location and Regional Context
Troyes sits in the Paris Basin
(Bassin parisien), a large sedimentary geological structure that forms
much of northern and central France. This basin features concentric
layers of sedimentary rocks, primarily limestone and chalk, with gently
undulating plains and low plateaus.
The city is strategically
positioned along major historical routes, including the ancient Via
Agrippa, at the crossroads of routes connecting northern and southern
France. It is surrounded by the Champagne plains to the north and east
and transitions toward the more varied landscapes of Burgundy to the
south. The broader area is part of "wet Champagne" (Champagne humide),
characterized by more water and forests compared to the drier chalky
plains further north.
Topography and Elevation
Troyes lies at
a low elevation in a relatively flat to gently rolling landscape:
Elevation range: 100–126 m (328–413 ft) above sea level.
Average
elevation: 118 m (387 ft).
The terrain is typical of the Seine
valley in this section—broad, low-relief plains with minimal dramatic
hills. The city itself is built on alluvial deposits from the river,
creating a mostly level urban area ideal for historical development but
prone to occasional flooding. Surrounding areas feature subtle plateaus
and valleys shaped by the river system and underlying limestone geology.
The Seine River and Hydrology
The Seine River, one of France's
most iconic waterways (total length ~776–777 km), flows directly through
Troyes.
The Seine originates in the Côte d'Or department (Burgundy)
at around 471 m elevation and flows northwestward.
In the Troyes
area, it traverses a well-defined trench in the Champagne chalk plateau.
Historically, Troyes developed around the river, with the Counts of
Champagne engineering canals, branches, and sluice systems to manage
water for defense, industry, irrigation, and urban layout. This created
a distinctive "champagne cork"-shaped water network in the historic
center, with multiple arms and channels.
The river is
slow-flowing and navigable in sections (historically via the Canal de la
Haute-Seine toward Troyes). It joins with tributaries like the Aube
nearby. The Seine's regime here shows higher flows in winter and lower
in summer, typical of northern French rivers.
Surrounding Natural
Features: Forêt d'Orient
One of Troyes' key geographical assets is
its proximity to the Forêt d'Orient Regional Natural Park (Parc naturel
régional de la Forêt d'Orient), located about 12–25 km east of the city.
This serves as the "green lung" for the area.
The park covers a vast
rural territory (around 70,000–80,000 hectares) with extensive forests,
wetlands, and agricultural lands.
It features three large artificial
reservoir lakes created in the mid-20th century:
Lac d'Orient
(largest, ~2,500 hectares) — used for swimming, water sports.
Lac du
Temple (~2,000 hectares) — popular for sailing and fishing.
Lac
Amance.
These lakes, along with natural ponds and streams, form a
major wetland complex that attracts diverse birdlife (over 265 species)
and supports biodiversity.
The forest itself is a mix of
deciduous and coniferous woodland, offering hiking, cycling, and nature
trails. It contrasts with the more open Champagne plains and provides
recreational and ecological value close to the urban center.
Climate
Troyes has a temperate oceanic climate (Köppen classification
Cfb), with some continental influences due to its inland eastern
position.
Average annual temperature: Around 11.5 °C (52.6 °F).
Summers: Mild to warm (July/August highs around 24–25 °C, occasional
peaks higher).
Winters: Cool (January lows around 1–2 °C, rarely
extreme).
Precipitation: Fairly evenly distributed throughout the
year, totaling about 800–830 mm annually. Slightly wetter in
autumn/winter; October often sees higher rainfall. No pronounced dry
season.
This climate supports agriculture (notably Champagne
vineyards in the broader region) and lush vegetation, though it can
bring foggy or damp conditions, especially near the river and lakes.