Sounion Archaeological Site, Greece

Sounion

 

Location: 69 km (43 mi) South- east of Athens   Map

Tel. 22920 39363

Open: 9am- sunset daily

 

Description

The Sounion Archaeological Site, located at Cape Sounion (also spelled Sounio) in Greece, is renowned primarily for the ancient Temple of Poseidon, perched dramatically on a cliff overlooking the Aegean Sea. Situated about 69 kilometers southeast of Athens at the southernmost tip of the Attica peninsula, this site marks a strategic and symbolic point where land meets sea, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the Saronic Gulf and nearby islands. The temple, dedicated to Poseidon—the god of the sea, earthquakes, and horses—serves as a testament to ancient Athenian maritime power and religious devotion. Its location was not accidental; it acted as a visible landmark for sailors approaching or departing from Attica's harbors, symbolizing protection over sea voyages and trade routes. The site encompasses remnants of ancient sanctuaries, fortifications, and other structures, enveloped in layers of myth, history, and natural beauty, making it one of Greece's most picturesque archaeological destinations.

 

How to get here

1. By Public Bus (Most Affordable Option)
The KTEL Attikis operates suburban buses from Athens to Sounion. This is a budget-friendly and scenic choice, especially the coastal route, which hugs the shoreline and takes about 2 hours. The inland route is slightly faster but less picturesque.

Starting Point: The bus departs from the KTEL Attikis terminal near Pedion Areos Park (also known as Egyptou Square or Platia Aigyptou), close to the National Archaeological Museum in central Athens. It's accessible via metro (Victoria Station on Line 1) or trolleybus.
Schedule: In November (off-season), buses run less frequently than in summer—typically 2-4 times per day. Example departures from Athens include 10:30 AM and 15:00 PM (coastal route), with returns from Sounion around 13:45 PM and 18:00 PM. Full schedules vary by day and season; check the official KTEL Attikis website for the latest.
Cost: €4-7 one-way (cash or card accepted on board or at the terminal).
Tips: Buses drop off directly at the archaeological site entrance. No advance booking is usually needed, but arrive early during peak times. If you're in Glyfada or other southern suburbs, some buses stop there en route.

2. By Rental Car (Most Flexible Option)
Driving gives you freedom to stop at beaches or viewpoints along the way.

Route: Take the Athens-Sounion coastal road (Leoforos Posidonos and then Route 91). It's about 65 km and takes 1-1.5 hours, depending on traffic. There may be small tolls (€2-3 total).
Cost: Gas and tolls around €10-15 round-trip, plus rental fees (starting at €20-40/day for a compact car via sites like Rentalcars.com).
Tips: Parking is available at the site (free or low-cost). Use GPS apps like Google Maps for real-time directions. International driver's permit recommended if your license isn't in Greek or English.

3. By Taxi or Ride-Share
Convenient for groups or if you want door-to-door service.

Duration: About 1 hour.
Cost: €90-110 one-way via standard taxi; slightly less with apps like Uber or Beat (if available). Return trips can be arranged with the driver or booked separately.
Tips: Taxis are yellow in Athens; agree on a flat rate in advance to avoid surprises. Private transfers via services like Welcome Pickups can include English-speaking drivers.

4. By Organized Tour (Easiest for First-Timers)
If you prefer guided commentary and no planning hassle, join a half-day tour.

Options: Many companies offer trips departing from central Athens (e.g., Omonoia Square or hotels), often timed for sunset. Examples include bus tours with audio guides or small-group vans.
Duration: 4-5 hours round-trip.
Cost: €40-100 per person, depending on inclusions (entry fees, snacks, etc.). Site entrance is extra (€10/adult, reduced in winter).
Tips: Book via sites like GetYourGuide, Viator, or Expedia. Some include stops at nearby beaches.

 

History

Ancient Origins and Mythological Foundations
Human presence at Sounion traces back to the Mycenaean period (circa 1600–1100 BC), with evidence of a circular temenos (sacred precinct) north of the cape, including a sacred grove and burial mound. Votive offerings such as arrowheads, weapons, clay and bronze figurines suggest an early warrior cult linked to chthonic deities. Artifacts like Cycladic statuettes and Mycenaean seals further indicate prehistoric activity. By around 700 BC, archaeological finds confirm organized settlement and religious practices.
The site is steeped in Greek mythology. Homer's Odyssey (Book III, lines 278–285) first mentions "Holy Sounion, Cape of Athens," describing how King Menelaus of Sparta cremated his helmsman Phrontis there after his death while rounding the cape during the return from Troy. This tied the location to funeral rites and divine intervention. Another prominent legend involves King Aegeus of Athens, who leapt from the cliffs in despair upon seeing black sails on his son Theseus' ship, mistakenly believing Theseus had perished in his quest against the Minotaur in Crete; this tragedy led to the Aegean Sea being named in Aegeus' honor. Poseidon, god of the sea, earthquakes, and horses, was central to the site's worship—sailors offered sacrifices to appease him and ensure safe voyages, reflecting his dominion over storms and tides. The cape also hosted quadrennial festivals by the 6th century BC, where Athenian leaders sailed in sacred boats to honor the gods.

Construction and Architectural Development
The Archaic period saw the establishment of key structures. An early Temple of Poseidon, built of tufa around 500–490 BC, featured votive offerings like the Sounion Kouros (a colossal marble statue circa 600 BC). Nearby, the Temple of Athena Souniados was constructed around 470 BC on a low hill 300 meters northeast, with an unusual Ionic design featuring colonnades only on the southern and eastern sides; it replaced a 6th-century BC predecessor and was adjacent to a peribolos (enclosure) possibly honoring Phrontis or Artemis.
These early temples were destroyed in 480 BC by Persian forces under Xerxes I during their invasion of Greece. Reconstruction occurred during Athens' Golden Age under Pericles. The new Temple of Poseidon, built between 444–440 BC, was a hexastyle Doric edifice with 34 columns (15 surviving today) made of white marble from the nearby Agrileza quarry. Designed possibly by Ictinus (architect of the Temple of Hephaestus), it included a windowless naos housing a 6-meter bronze statue of Poseidon and friezes depicting Theseus and the Battle of Centaurs. The columns, slender at the top for an illusion of height, were engineered to endure coastal winds. Access was via a Propylaea (gateway) with Doric columns, steps, and a ramp, alongside banquet rooms and stoas.
The site's fortifications were added in 413–412 BC during the Peloponnesian War to protect grain shipments and counter Spartan threats, enclosing over 3.5 hectares with three-meter-thick walls, 13 towers, and a naval base with shipsheds for two triremes carved into the bedrock. A self-sufficient settlement nearby included houses on a grid plan, cisterns, and beehives. Later, in the late 2nd century BC, smaller sanctuaries to Asclepius and Ianiskos (god of malaria) were added, likely due to marshy conditions.

Historical Significance and Key Events
Sounion's deme status within Athens' Leontis tribe and its Laurium mines made it economically vital, with its wealth becoming proverbial. After the Battle of Salamis in 480 BC, Athenians dedicated a captured Phoenician trireme there as a trophy to Poseidon. The bay hosted regattas honoring the god, and the site served as a beacon for sailors navigating the Saronic Gulf.
During the Peloponnesian War, it was a key fortress, but fell briefly to rebel slaves from the mines. Repairs occurred during the Chremonidean War (266–261 BC). In the 3rd century BC, Macedonians under the Antigonids reinforced the walls and added shipsheds, but Athens recaptured it in 229 BC. By the 4th century BC, declining mines led to reduced importance; the Temple of Athena was dismantled in the 1st century AD, its columns reused in Athens' Agora. The site decayed by Roman times, though its columns aided navigation, earning the name "Capo Colonne."

Decline, Rediscovery, and Archaeological Excavations
By the 1st century BC, sanctuaries were largely abandoned, with commercial shifts to eastern Mediterranean ports accelerating the decline. Traveler Pausanias (2nd century AD) visited but misidentified the Temple of Poseidon as Athena's. Early modern accounts appear in 17th–19th century travelogues by figures like G. Wheler (1676), Lady Mary Wortley Montague (1718), and Edward Dodwell (1805). Lord Byron visited in 1810–1811, carving his name (though unconfirmed) and referencing the site in Don Juan as "Sunium’s marbled steep."
Systematic excavations began in the late 19th century, with major discoveries in 1906, including the Sounion Kouros and Archaic statue fragments in pits east of the Poseidon temple, likely discarded after Persian destruction. Pits southeast of Athena's temenos yielded offerings from the invasion era. The fortress walls, towers, barracks, and trireme ramps have been mapped, revealing a self-sufficient community. Artifacts, including sculptures and friezes, are now in museums like the National Archaeological Museum of Athens and the British Museum. A 2006 marine geoarchaeological survey explored underwater features in Sounion Gulf.

Modern Preservation and Cultural Legacy
Established as Sounio National Park in 1974 (750 hectares), the site underwent arrangement projects in 2011–2013, co-funded by the EU and Greece's Ministry of Culture. It attracts tourists for sunset views, day trips from Athens, and nearby amenities like the Grecotel Cape Sounio resort (built 1973). Philosophers like Martin Heidegger (1962) and statesmen like Winston Churchill have visited, cementing its poetic and historical allure. Sounion continues to embody ancient Greece's blend of myth, architecture, and strategy, preserved for future generations.

 

Architecture and Design

The Temple of Poseidon exemplifies Classical Greek architecture in the Doric order, built primarily from coarse-grained white marble quarried at nearby Agrileza (also called Agrilesa). It is a peripteral temple with a hexastyle facade—six columns at each short end and thirteen on each long side—totaling 34 columns, though only 13 remain standing today, with four on the north side reconstructed in the 1950s. Each column stands about 6.1 meters (20 feet) tall and 1 meter (3 feet) in diameter at the base, uniquely featuring 16 flutes instead of the standard 20, a trait shared with other seaside temples like the Temple of Aphaea on Aegina, possibly to reduce erosion from salt and wind.
The stylobate (platform) measures 31.1 by 13.4 meters, supported by a crepidoma (stepped base) that incorporates remnants of the Archaic limestone foundation, visible at the southeast corner with claw-tooth chisel marks and fire discoloration. The interior layout includes a naos (cella) housing a colossal 6-meter bronze statue of Poseidon (now lost), a pronaos (front porch), and an opisthodomos (rear porch). The ceilings were innovative: slot-type on the flanks with marble beams and slabs, and coffer-type on the porches, similar to the Hephaisteion. The metopes are plain and undecorated, but the pronaos featured a continuous Ionic frieze of Parian marble, depicting eroded scenes possibly of centauromachy (battle of Centaurs and Lapiths), gigantomachy (battle of gods and giants), and the labors of Theseus. The pediments had a shallow 12.5-degree pitch (versus the usual 15 degrees) and were adorned with sculptures, though only fragments like a seated female figure survive.
The temple's design aligns closely with contemporaries like the Hephaisteion and the Temple of Nemesis at Rhamnous, suggesting a shared architect, evidenced by features such as porch columns aligning with the third peristyle column. The overall plan was adjusted from an initial 6x12 to 6x13 columns for better proportions. Surrounding elements include a peribolos enclosure, propylaea gateway, and stoas, enhancing its sanctuary function.

 

Cultural and Symbolic Significance

As a beacon of Athenian sea power, the temple underscored Athens' naval supremacy in the 5th century BC, particularly after the Persian Wars. Its elevated position—about 60 meters above sea level—made it a literal and metaphorical landmark for mariners, invoking Poseidon's protection for safe voyages and prosperous trade, crucial for a seafaring city-state. The site's proximity to the silver mines of Lavrio further tied it to economic prosperity, with offerings likely funded by mining wealth. It also served defensive purposes, monitoring sea lanes against enemies and marking Attica's southern border.
Mythologically, Sounion is steeped in legends: King Aegeus leaped to his death here upon mistakenly believing his son Theseus had perished fighting the Minotaur, thus naming the Aegean Sea; King Menelaus' ship paused at the cape returning from Troy; and the temple was built to honor Poseidon while safeguarding Lavrio's mining profits. These stories blend with historical reverence, as noted by ancient writers like Strabo and Pausanias. Artifacts, including kouroi now in the National Archaeological Museum of Athens and sculptures in the Lavrio Museum depicting Theseus' labors, centaurs, and giants, highlight its role in mythological narratives.

 

Modern Visitation and Preservation

Today, the site attracts visitors for its historical value and stunning sunsets, often viewed with the temple framing the sea. Open from 9:30 AM until sunset, admission is €20 (full) or €10 (reduced), with free entry on select dates like March 6, April 18, and October 28. It's accessible by car along the scenic coastal route from Athens or by KTEL bus. Nearby amenities include beaches for swimming (e.g., at Legrena or Lavrio) and tavernas serving fresh seafood. Preservation efforts continue, focusing on the remaining columns and foundations, though challenges like erosion persist due to its exposed location.