Thessaloniki

 

Thessaloniki, Greek: Θεσσαλονίκη, is the second largest city in Greece. The city is the cultural center and capital of the Macedonia region. Its buildings from the early Christian and Byzantine periods have been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1988.

The urban area also includes: Triandra, Ampelokipoi, Menemeni, Eleftherio-Kordelio, Evosmos, Agios Pavlos, Neapoli, Pefka, Sykies, Nea Efkarpia, Polichni, Stavroupoli, Pylaia.

With over 1,105,000 (2019) inhabitants, it is the second largest city in Greece after Athens. 1.4 million people live in the greater Thessaloniki area. The name “Saloniki”, which goes back to the name “Selanik” of the city under Ottoman rule, is still often used in Germany.

The city was founded in 315 BC. Founded by King Kassandros of Macedon in the 1st century BC by merging 26 small settlements on the Thermaic Gulf into one city. The city got its name in honor of Thessalonikē, the sister of Alexander the Great. With the defeat of the Macedonian King Philip V against the Roman army in 168 BC. The period of the Macedonian Kingdom came to an end and the region was ruled from 146 BC. BC became the Roman province of “Macedonia” and Thessaloniki became its capital.

The city on the Via Egnatia and the Balkan road leading north to the Via Militaris became an important trading center. Cicero was born in 58 BC. banished here and around 49 BC. The Roman consuls fled to Thessaloniki. Around 49/50 AD. The apostle Paul (Acts 17:1-4 EU) visited the city and the second Christian community was founded (after that of Philippi). Around 300 AD, Thessaloniki became a residence of the Roman Emperor Galerius. During his time an imperial palace, the hippodrome, the Arch of Galerius and the rotunda were built. Around 322, an artificial harbor basin was created by the Roman Emperor Constantine I.

After 330 Byzantium or After Constantinople became the eastern imperial residence of the Roman Empire, Thessaloniki lost its importance. After the empire was divided into the Western and Eastern Roman Empires, the city was included in the Eastern Roman Empire. The city contributed to the Slavic conquests of the Avars and Slavs from the north in the 6th and 7th centuries. Century successfully resisted as a Roman imperial city. Nevertheless, attacks continued to occur. The Saracens plundered the city in 904. As part of the First Crusade, Thessaloniki was conquered and devastated by the Roman Catholic Normans around 1185. Since then, the Greek Orthodox city has seen itself as a victim of Roman Catholic aggression. Around 1204 Thessaloniki became the capital of a short-lived Frankish Crusader state. After times under the Epirotes and the King of Bulgaria, the city returned to the Byzantine Empire. It experienced a heyday with new churches and harbor buildings. The Venetians and Genoese shaped the city with their own districts.

After the first Turkish attacks in the 14th century. Thessaloniki was besieged by Sultan Murad II in 1430 and then incorporated into the Ottoman Empire. As Selânik, the Ottoman-Islamic culture shaped the city over the next four hundred years. When the Kingdom of Greece was founded in the south in 1821/22, the Ottoman troops were able to secure their rule. In the 19th century The city experienced a massive boom and was inhabited by Ottoman-Muslim, Jewish and European populations. The city was connected to the European railway network. In a major fire in 1890, the Byzantine and Metropolitan churches, the European quarter and numerous synagogues in the city center burned down and, in particular, 20,000 Jews became homeless.

The founder of modern Turkey, Kemal Atatürk, was born in Thessaloniki in 1881. The city was connected to the capital of the Ottoman Empire, Istanbul, by a railway line in 1896. In November 1912, in the First Balkan War, Montenegro, Serbia, Bulgaria and Greece declared war on the Ottoman Empire and the city was besieged by Greek-Bulgarian troops and abandoned without a fight by the Ottoman commander. With the Peace of Bucharest, Macedonia and its capital Thessaloniki became part of Greece in August 1913. Under Greek Prime Minister Eleftherios Venizelos, Allied troops landed in Salonika in 1915 to fight against the troops of the Central Powers (Germany, Austria-Hungary, Bulgaria and Turkey). This was followed by the Greco-Turkish War in 1919/22. This ended in the so-called Asia Minor catastrophe. The population of Greek origin was expelled from Turkey and the Muslim-Turkish population was expelled from Macedonia. In the area, many towns with names like "Nea xxxxxx" were founded by immigrants of Greek origin. In 1917 a major fire devastated the southern parts of Thessaloniki and a modern reconstruction took place.

Thessaloniki had had a Jewish population since New Testament times and was considered the “Jerusalem of the Balkans”. In the 15th century Many Sephardic Jews were added. David Ben Gurion studied Turkish in Thessaloniki around 1910. Before World War II, the city had 40 synagogues and a Jewish population of 56,000 people. With the German occupation from April 1941 to October 1943, the Jewish population was forced to pay protection money with the horrendous sum of 3 billion drachmas. Since the Nazi regime considered this amount to be insufficient, the Jewish cemetery was confiscated and the stones were given away as building materials. Virtually the entire Jewish population of Thessaloniki was deported under Aloins Brunner and sent to the gas chambers in Auschwitz and Bergen-Belsen. Only 2,000 of Thessalonian Jews survived the Holocaust. In 1949, the reconstruction of the city began, whose residents see themselves as the opposite of the Greek capital Athens. In 1997 the city became European Capital of Culture.

 

Sights

Buildings

White Tower (Λευκός Πύργος) The city's landmark is the White Tower, which stands on the waterfront of Thessaloniki and was part of the city's fortifications. Whether it was built by the Venetians around 1430 or by the Turks a hundred years later is an unresolved question. What is certain is that it was used as a prison in Ottoman times. At that time it was known as the “Blood Tower” because of the executions. The tower was later covered with white lime. Today, however, you can only see the light color of the natural stone. The tower has a height of 33m and is 7 floors high. On the lower 6 floors, the Byzantine Museum shows an exhibition on the history and development of the city. At the top there is a viewing platform with an excellent view over the waterfront to the harbor. The excursion buses from Chalkidiki and Piera also meet at the White Tower. The white tower is about a quarter of an hour's walk from the city center. The visit is subject to a fee, for security reasons only a maximum of 70 people are allowed to visit the tower at the same time, multilingual audio guides.
City walls (Βυζαντινά τείχη της Θεσσαλονίκης) The city walls of Thessaloniki are still partially preserved, e.g. B. at the castle and the Trigoniou tower or the 12 Apostles Church. The fortifications date back to the period of Byzantine rule and were intended to protect the city from Turkish invaders. Some of the walls have been completely preserved; many sections were demolished for urban development. Since the wall was repeatedly changed and expanded over time, the different construction eras can be seen. Another line of walls is in the northern part of the Acropolis and is called Eptapyrgio ("Seven Towers"). This section formed the last line of defense should the enemy break through the outer fortress. It was built around 1423-1430 by the Venetians to resist the Turkish threat. The Eptapyrgio consists of a surrounding wall that encloses seven towers. The middle and largest tower was built by Tsaous Bey, the city's first Turkish governor. Thus, the Eptapyrgio was called "Yedi Kule" (seven towers) in Turkish, a name that follows the monument to this day. The Eptapyrgio housed the city's prison from the end of the 18th century until 1988 and is now a cultural center. The city fortifications are located on the hill to the east of the old town.

 

Buildings from the Greek - Roman period

Galerius Palace (Ανάκτορα του Γαλέριου) . Between 297 and 307, Galerius redesigned the city in a Roman style with impressive buildings and fortifications. Together with the eastern walls, a large palace complex was built - the Galerius Palace. A large part of the facilities and buildings were later used as quarries or built over, so that today only a fraction of the former Roman city can be seen.
Arch of Galerius (Αψίδα Γαλερίου), Εγνατία . The triumphal arch dates back to Roman times and goes back to Emperor Galerius, under whom it was built around 300 AD. was built. The illustrations show scenes from the war against the Persians.
Rotunda Agios Georgios (Ροτόντα) . Originally designed by the Romans in the early 4th century. The building was built as a mausoleum in Christian times in the 4th-6th centuries. century expanded with a propylon and used as a church. Under Ottoman rule it was converted into a mosque. Today there is a museum in the rotunda. Open: Mon, Wed-Fri 8:00 a.m. - 7:45 p.m.; Sat, Sun 9:00 a.m. - 4:45 p.m.; Closed on Tue.
Roman Forum The Ancient Roman Market (or Agora) is located on the upper side of Aristotle Square. The site is a large two-terraced forum with two-story stoas, two Roman baths, one of which has been excavated while the other is buried beneath the city, and a small theater that was also used for gladiatorial games. Although the original complex was built before Roman times, it was largely renovated in the 2nd century. The forum and theater are believed to have been in use until at least the 6th century.
Excavations at Dioikitiriou Square. Recent excavations for the creation of an underground car park in the square in front of the Ministry of Macedonia and Thrace (Dioikitirio) revealed a whole series of ruins of ancient buildings (3rd century BC) and early Christian to post-Byzantine monuments such as public buildings, baths. A marble head of Aphrodite and a bronze bust of Athena were found. etc.
Byzantine Bath (Βυζαντινό Λουτρό Άνω Πόλης) . This little gem is worth a visit. The bath was in operation until 1940.

 

Buildings from the Ottoman period

Bey Hamam (Μπέη Χαμάμ) . The most important Turkish bath in the city, built around 1440. It was in operation under the name "Paradise Bath" (Loutra Paradisou) until 1968. Today it is an event hall.
Geni Hamam. Built in the 16th century, the building houses the Aigli restaurant, which also has a live music stage.
Pasha Hamam (Λουτρά Φοίνιξ) . These Turkish baths operated under the name "Phoenix" until recently. They were built in 1520-1530.
Pazar Hamam (Yahoudi Hamam) (Γιαχουντί Χαμάμ) . The building of the former Turkish baths now houses a charming flower market ("Louloudadika"). It was built in the first half of the 16th century and is currently being restored.
Bezesteni (Μπεζεστένι Θεσσαλονίκης) . Former fabric market, building with 6 domes. This covered market square was built at the end of the 15th century and was the center of Thessaloniki's commercial life for many years.
Birthplace of Kemal Ataturk (Μουσείο Ατατούρκ Θεσσαλονίκης). Today a museum. It stands on the grounds of the Turkish Consulate General and is surrounded by a high fence.

 

Modern buildings

OTE TV Tower (Πύργος του ΟΤΕ) . The 75m high tower is located on the city's exhibition grounds. There is a revolving restaurant in its viewing platform.

 

Churches, monasteries, mosques

There are numerous churches in the city of Thessaloniki, even in places where you wouldn't expect them at all. Many of the ancient churches are very small, most of them have the typical design of the cross-dome church. Many of the churches were converted into mosques during the Ottoman occupation, and because of this and the destruction caused by city fires, in many cases some parts of the churches are no longer original. Thessaloniki is considered an important place among Orthodox Christians. Some of the places of worship are part of the world heritage:

 

Churches

Hagios Demetrios The Church of Saint Demetrios is the main church of Thessaloniki. The five-aisled Greek Orthodox church is located very close to the city center. A visit to the Hagios Demetrios Church is definitely worth it. For a better understanding, it is advisable to read about the church in the literature before visiting so that you can better understand which part dates from which period. The various frescoes in the church should be explained to you. The most interesting part of the church is certainly the crypt, where Saint Demetrios is said to have experienced his martyrdom, which is free to visit. Only the chancel is of course closed, as is usual in Greek Orthodox houses of worship. The church is free to visit and photography is also permitted with flash.
Agia Sophia (Αγία Σοφία) . Those from the 8th/9th. century The church is one of the most impressive in Thessaloniki. Right next to the church in front of the popular "Iktinou" Street, almost 5 meters below street level, lies the ancient monastery and catacombs of Saint John. It is believed that the tunnels were part of an expanded aqueduct system built by the Romans before being used as a religious site by the early Christians. Many archaeological finds indicate an even earlier use as a pagan temple.
Agios Panteleimonas Byzantine cross-dome church from the late 13th / 14th century with frescoes worth seeing.
Panagia Archeiropoietos (Αχειροποίητος) . Dating from the 5th century, a mosque in Ottoman times, used as a church again since 1930.
Panagia Chalkeon (Παναγιά Χαλκέων) . Byzantine church from the 11th century.
Latomou Monastery (Osios David Church). The small cross-domed church, the Catholicon of the Latomou Monastery, was built in the late 5th century. built and is considered one of the oldest Byzantine churches. The mosaic of the seated Christ dates from the 5th century, the frescoes from the 12th century. Price: Free entry.
12 Apostles Church A beautiful Byzantine church, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. There is a café and a restaurant in the immediate vicinity, and parts of the city wall invite you to visit.
Church of Agios Nikolaos Orphanos (Ναός Αγίου Νικολάου Ορφανού) . It has important wall paintings from the beginning of the 14th century.
Church of Agia Ekaterini (Ναός Αγίας Αικατερίνης) . Byzantine church from the late 13th century.
Chapel of the Transfiguration of the Savior (Ναός Μεταμόρφωσης του Σωτήρα) . The location below today's building standards and the small size make them appear inconspicuous.
Vlatades Monastery (Μονή Βλατάδων) . Founded in the mid-14th century.
Church of the Prophet Elijah (Ναός Προφήτη Ηλία Θεσσαλονίκης) . is a Byzantine church from the Paleologian period (1259 to 1453).

 

Mosques

Alatza Imaret (Αλατζά Ιμαρέτ) . Mosque worth seeing, restored, used for exhibitions. One of Thessaloniki's largest and best-preserved Ottoman mosques.
Hamza Bey Mosque (Αλκαζάρ - Χαμζά μπέη τζαμί), Εγνατία, Θεσσαλονίκη 546 31 . Mosque worth seeing, restored, used for exhibitions. It was built in 1467.

 

Streets and squares

Aristotle Square (Πλατεία Αριστοτέλους) . The center is located around Aristotle Square with the pedestrian zone of Aristotle Street. Here you can go shopping, eat and drink coffee. But there is also the traditional Greek market here. It's sometimes very narrow and very crowded, the barkers are doing their best. Here you can buy pretty much everything you need for everyday life. Aristotle Square is a major gateway to downtown Thessaloniki, the main modern Thessaloniki is gathered around Aristotle Street. Aristotlestrasse is a pedestrian zone that crosses the city center from south to north. Here you will find restaurants and cafes, it is the street to “see and be seen” in Thessaloniki. Many shops can be found on the parallel streets on both sides of Aristotlestrasse.
Thessaloniki Market (Καπάνι) . If you come from the sea, you can also reach the famous market. All the goods you need to live in a Greek household are offered here. Visiting this market is definitely worth it. It has nothing to do with the well-known tourist markets, but rather corresponds to the local weekly markets. The market stalls are crowded in the alleys and offer fish, meat and vegetables from local production.
Promenade. Thessaloniki Promenade, also known as "Nikis Avenue" or "Nikis Street", is one of the most picturesque and popular areas in the city. There are numerous tourist attractions and activities here. Along the promenade there are various art installations and sculptures that enrich the cultural atmosphere of the city. It is also lined with restaurants, cafés and bars. Boat trips and excursions to Thessaloniki Bay are offered along the promenade. This is a great way to experience the city from the water. The promenade is also a popular place for cycling, jogging and walking. There are bike rental stations nearby if you want to explore the area by bike.

 

Parks

If you walk south from the White Tower along the promenade, you will pass some small parks

 

Various

The old town is above the white tower, to the north. A large part of the city wall is still preserved here. But there are still a lot of old houses, some of which have been restored. You can really stay here for a long time because the old and new buildings have somehow grown together.

 

Museums

Thessaloniki has two important museums. In the Archaeological Museum, which is located near the White Tower, the early history of the city up to the time of Roman rule is shown based on finds from excavations in Macedonia. The second important museum is the Byzantine Museum, which gives an overview of the city's history from the Christian-dominated Byzantine period. There are of course many other small museums on various topics.

Archaeological Museum (Αρχαιολογικό Μουσείο Θεσσαλονίκης). Tel.: +30 231 083 05 38 . You should take some time to visit this museum; allow around 2 hours for a visit with more intensive study. In addition to various special exhibitions, there is a permanent exhibition with a tour through the history of Greece and Macedonia, all supported by exhibits that were found around Thessaloniki. It is allowed to take photos, but only without using the flash.
Byzantine Museum τού . Located next to the Archaeological Museum, the exhibits illuminate the history of Macedonia through the Christian era from 300 AD. until 1430, the beginning of Ottoman rule. Frescoes, parts of buildings, grave goods, coins, etc. are exhibited. In 2005, the Byzantine Museum was declared "Museum of the Year" in Europe.
Noesis Science and technology museum in the suburb of Thermi.
Jewish Museum Email: info@jmth.gr . History of the Jews, especially the Sephardic Jews who immigrated from Spain after 1492.
Cinema Museum, in the old port. This is also the center of the annual documentary film festival in March. Art exhibitions also take place in the nearby halls, which were renovated in 2011. Open: Mon and Tue 9 a.m. to 3 p.m., Wed and Fri 9 a.m. to 7 p.m. Price: 2€.

 

Shopping

If you want to go shopping, Thessaloniki is the right place for you. In the city center you can find everything your heart desires, from the cheapest frock to the outrageously expensive dress, from plastic costume jewelry to real gold jewelry with precious stones. The city is the metropolis where people from half of northern Greece / Macedonia go to shop.

The city center with all of these shops is located around Aristotle Square and along Aristotle Street, which is a traffic-free pedestrian zone. There are also a lot of shops in the neighboring streets; almost every self-respecting fashion brand has a shop here. There is also a shopping center very close to Aristotle Square.

Heading north along Aristotle Street takes you to the city's traditional markets. Locally produced goods are offered here: fruit, vegetables, fish, meat, fabrics and a lot of other stuff... The residents of Thessaloniki much prefer to get their supplies here than in the big shopping center.

 

Eat

In addition to the typical Greek cuisine, you can find all the big fast food chains in Thessaloniki, plenty of international cuisine, and many Italian restaurants that offer quick dishes such as pizza and pasta. Upscale restaurants are more likely to be found in the outskirts, but you have to be lucky to find a cozy one among the many taverns.

Bougatsa is a puff pastry that is popular around Thessaloniki. It is offered as a sweet dish with cream or semolina pudding, but also as a savory dish with cheese, minced meat or spinach filling. The respective filling goes between the layers of puff pastry, which is then baked in the oven.

 

Nightlife

Thessaloniki offers an intense nightlife for every taste. From traditional Greek music to modern Greek music, from jazz to rock and other music genres. Thanks to its vibrant student community, Thessaloniki offers a lively and colorful nightlife that few other Greek cities can match. Bouzoukia nightclubs with traditional Greek live music are also plentiful. Thessaloniki locals love to eat their favorite dishes while listening to live music.

Dinner rarely begins before 9 p.m., and most restaurants and taverns stay open until at least 1 a.m., while nightclubs in Thessaloniki and Bouzoukia are open from 11 p.m. until dawn.

Ladadika (Λαδάδικα) . The most famous nightlife spot in Thessaloniki is Ladadika, a picturesque neighborhood near the waterfront and harbor. There you will find the best bars, nightclubs and cafes for a great evening. Ladadika is of historical and cultural interest as it is one of the oldest districts in the city and captures the essence of old Thessaloniki. Thessaloniki is famous for its delicious local cuisine, so don't miss the opportunity to eat in one of the city's many taverns and restaurants. Thessaloniki's waterfront is a popular meeting place for locals and tourists alike, with a variety of restaurants, cafes and bars. In summer there are also bar ships that depart from Thessaloniki port and offer nighttime views of the city and a tour of the bay, adding something special to Thessaloniki's famous nightlife.
Valaoritou Street (Οδός Βαλαωρίτου (Θεσσαλονίκη)) . One of the best nightlife areas in Thessaloniki is Valaoritou, where the fun continues well into the night. There are a variety of bars, each with its own musical and aesthetic taste. The Valaoritou-Syngrou district particularly attracts young people. This is because here are the clubs and bars that mainly focus on hip-hop, rock and mainstream music.
Apo Poli. The winding streets of the Upper Town and the Venetian Castle are one of the oldest districts of the city and are characterized by the typical two-story houses and cobbled squares. Here you can sample culinary delights offered in the area's quaint cafes and taverns and enjoy the views of the city and the Gulf from above.
Bit Bazaar. Tucked away in a central square, surrounded by its small two-story house between Olympou, Veniselou and Tositsa streets, this old bazaar houses antique shops converted into cafes, taverns and bars playing alternative music. It is a popular meeting place for students.
Rotunda. Located near the university district of Thessaloniki, this area is home to many beautiful and creative bars and attracts a large number of students.

 

Hotels

It's not difficult to get a room in Thessaloniki. Many hotels are located around the city center. Many hotels have settled on the waterfront promenade. Everything can be found, from simple rooms to luxury apartments.

Cheap
Crossroads, thanasiou Diakou 1, Agios Pavlos (bus 23, from or 24, from Egnatia St., to Agios Pavlos stop (ΑΓΙΟΣ ΠΑΥΛΟΣ)). Tel.: +302 310 203 700. 3 rooms each with 6 beds, 4 beds and 3 beds. Extremely clean and well maintained. 120 meters above the old town on the Byzantine wall. Price: 14€.

 

Beaches

If you still want a little more beach next to the city, you can take a boat to Peraia (Περαία) and Neoi Epivates (Nεοι Eπιβατες) in around 45 minutes during the season. The crossing for the one-way route is €5, reduced price €3, as of 2019). These ferry boats - also called "Thessaloniki Waterbus" - run every two hours from the harbor (directly at the harbor crane) and from the White Tower. These two places have a sandy beach as well as numerous bars and restaurants and from the boat you can enjoy a wonderful view of Thessaloniki from Thermaikos, the sea. Further information in English: here.

To get to the better beaches, you have to take a fairly long journey. The destination is either the coastal towns towards Halkidiki, such as Nea Kallikratia, Nea Moudania or the towns along the Olympic Riviera towards Katerini. Alternatively, towards the east, Asprovalta is popular as a bathing destination.

 

Learn

Thessaloniki is known for its university. The most important university in Greece is located just east of the center of the city. Not only Greeks study here, but also students from all over the world.

 

Work

As in all of Greece, the keyword unemployment is also a big issue in Thessaloniki. Occasional jobs in particular are often in high demand among Greeks. It is extremely difficult for foreigners to get a job here; The Greek locals have to support themselves from the income, unlike a traveler. The wage level is significantly lower than in Germany, for example.

 

Security

As in all of Greece, the concept of crime is not an issue in Thessaloniki. Violent crime is almost non-existent and thefts are rare. However, you should of course also follow the usual rules here, i.e. not invite anyone to steal. The police show only a moderate presence.

 

Health

For medical emergencies, there are hospitals with emergency departments that do not meet the German standard of comfort, but are medically up-to-date. There are numerous pharmacies in the city where you can stock up on medication for minor illnesses; these are usually much cheaper than in Germany.

 

Etymology and forms of the name

Thessaloniki was founded by Cassander and was named after his wife, Thessaloniki, who was the half-sister of Alexander the Great and daughter of Philip II and his fifth wife, Princess Nikisipolis of Thessaly. Its name comes from the composition of the words Thessaly and Victory, in memory of the victory of the Macedonians and the Common of Thessaly against the tyrannical regime of Fera and their allies Phocaea, in the context of the Third Holy War.

The name is found in various forms but with slightly varied spelling and phonetic variations. Thessaloniki is an aggressive form, found in the work of Strabo [6] and is used in Hellenistic times as the name of the city, formed from the name of a natural person, as was done for Seleucia by Seleucus, Cassandreia by Cassander, Alexandria by Alexander the Great et al. However, the predominant form of the name is Thessaloniki. From the Hellenistic era there are reports with the name Thettaloniki, mainly from the historian Polybius. while during the Roman period, as inscriptions and coins show, the figures of Thessalonica and Thessalonica [city] appeared.

The type Saloniki (h), is found in the Chronicle of Morea (14th century, pp. 1010, 1075, 3603 etc) and is common in folk songs. It seems to be older as the Arab geographer Idris in 1150 mentions the city as Salunik (hence the Turkish Selianik). In one sense, Salonika came from the long-term use of the expression in Thessaloniki> st'T'Salounik '> st'T'Salounik'> f (h) Salounik. The name of the city came from Salonika (h) in other languages ​​of the region during the medieval times. The Turkophones and the Ottomans called the city Thessaloniki (Ottoman: سلاني, Turkish: Selânik) as well as the Jews, who settled in the city after the Ottoman conquest and spoke Spanish-Hebrew Latin, the Balkan Slavic populations: Solun ( Солун) and the Vlachs Saruna (Vlach: Sãrunã).

 

Historiographical sources

Remaining a small city during Antiquity and the Middle Ages, Philippi is rarely cited in ancient texts, except for two historical moments, the battle of Philippi in 42 BC. AD, and around 50 AD. AD the preaching of Paul of Tarsus.

It is mainly known through the archaeological excavations carried out since June 1914 by the French School of Athens, then, from the end of the 1950s, by the University of Thessaloniki and the archaeological service of Greece. The explorations concern an area larger than that of Pompeii (63.5 hectares in Pompeii compared to 67 hectares of which only approximately 40 hectares were buildable due to the steep relief, and barely a fifth is explored by archaeologists). The site has been abandoned for thirteen centuries and has been spared by modern reconstructions, which facilitates research, but it piles up levels from various eras, then is devastated, having long served as a quarry for neighboring villages, which makes it more complex. historical understanding.

Epigraphy is another source of historical information about Philippi. Patiently fed by more than a century of records on the city and its territory, the epigraphic corpus includes in 2014 nearly 1,500 Latin and Greek inscriptions, mostly from the Roman period. It is in number the richest corpus of the Roman colonies in the eastern part of the Empire, rivaling those of the colonies of Corinth and Antioch of Pisidia, although more important cities.

 

Macedonian and Hellenistic origins

Site
Philippi is established on the site of the Thasian colony of Crenides, at the foot of an overhang of Mount Lekani, a massif south of the Rhodope Mountains, on the northern edge of the marsh which occupied the entire plain in Antiquity. To the south of this plain rises Mount Pangea, and the hills of Symbolon block the flow of water towards the sea. The city is located on a natural terrace at the foot of an isolated eminence which culminates at almost three hundred meters altitude and dominates the plain. This conical-shaped hill, elongated in a southeast-northwest direction, is the acropolis of Philippi, formed of a gray rock mass of white marble at the break, a material exploited since Antiquity by several quarries for the construction of the city and its fortifications.

The philosopher Theophrastus, student of Aristotle, wrote in the 3rd century BC. in Book V of his work Causes of Plants that “in Philippi the air used to be heavy; it is much less so since the land was drained and became entirely cultivable. The air is lighter for two reasons: drying and cultivation. Indeed, the wasteland is colder and the air is heavier there. Because of the vegetation which prevents sunlight from passing through and air from circulating and because it is full of water which oozes and stagnates. It was like this around Crenides when the Thracians occupied it; the whole plain was covered with ponds and trees.”

Appian describes the site in the 1st century BC. BC as follows: “Philippi is a city which formerly bore the name of Datos, and before this, the name of Crenides, because of the large number of springs of living water (ϰρῆνας) which emerge from the the eminence on which it is raised. […] It is located on a fairly steep mound, and its size is exactly that of the summit of this mound. On the north side, it is covered by woods […]. On the south side is a marsh which extends to the sea. To the east, it has the Sapéens and Corpiles gorges. To the west, a plain which extends as far as Murcinum and Drabiscum, and as far as the river Strymon, over a space of three hundred and fifty stadia, and on a fertile and beautiful land.

 

Foundation

Philippi was founded by the King of Macedonia, Philip II, in 356 BC. BC, on the site of Crenides. The objective of this foundation was as much to take control of the gold and silver mines of Mount Pangea as to establish a garrison on a strategic crossing point: the site controls the road between Amphipolis and Neapolis, a segment of the great royal road which crosses Macedonia from east to west and which will later be rebuilt by the Romans under the name of Via Egnatia. Philip II provided the new city with important fortifications, which partly blocked the passage between the marshes and the Orbèlos, and sent numerous settlers there. The discovery of new gold mines around the city, in Asyla, contributed to the enrichment of the kingdom of Philip II who established a monetary workshop there. However, according to Victor Martin's study of the duration of exploitation of these mines, they were quickly exhausted, and monetary minting does not seem to go beyond 344 BC. BC, bringing the wealth of the city back to its agricultural land.

 

City institutions

Philippi is an independent city allied to the Kingdom of Macedonia. According to inscriptions dated from the Greek period, it has its own calendar with the names of months derived from the Twelve Gods, different from the Macedonian calendar, it has its own political institutions, with among others an eponymous priest, an archon assisted by other magistrates, its council chamber, its treasurer. It was only integrated into this kingdom in the last years of the reign of Philip V, or under his successor Perseus.

 

Urban setting

The archaeological remains of the city dated with certainty to the Macedonian and Hellenistic era are rare, which maintains uncertainty about the exact appearance of the city in its first centuries of existence. The urban fabric can be guessed by faint marks identified by scattered surveys: houses with Greek foundations, a crossroads mark dedicated to Apollo indicate street layouts and suggest an initial subdivision of the Macedonian foundation into rectangular islets, with dimensions estimated at 27 × 82.9 meters, perpendicular to the road which crosses the city. The monuments which, in their initial state, date back to this period are the enclosure, the theater, the foundations of a house under the Roman forum, a small temple and above all a Macedonian tomb, preserved between the cathedral church and its baptistery, interpreted as a Hellenistic heron (temple dedicated to a hero).

Despite everything, the city remains modest in size; and when the Romans definitively destroyed the kingdom of Macedonia in 167 BC to divide it into four distinct entities called merides, it is Amphipolis and not Philippi which becomes the capital of the first meris.

The surveys of the enclosure were published in 1938 by archaeologists, Jacques Roger, for the lower enclosure, Paul Lemerle and Henri Ducoux for the upper enclosure and the acropolis. The enclosure poses dating problems due to its continued reuse until the end of the Byzantine era. Successive reconstructions have hidden the Macedonian foundations, except in the upper part on the acropolis, where often only the first foundation, cut from the rock, of this first state remains. Excavations of the theater, which rests on the eastern curtain wall, nevertheless made it possible to uncover several layers of the rampart in the 1990s, whose bossed structure is characteristic of the Hellenistic period. Their dating is confirmed by a Greek inscription commemorating the intervention of two Macedonian epistates, named Pythodôros and Isagoras, perhaps during the reign of Philip V. In the plain, on the other hand, proof has never been provided with certainty of the presence of these levels. Some historians, like Georges Perrot, gave the city a very small surface area, leaning against the rock, more in agreement with their reading of the literary testimonies, which placed the rampart further north at the foot of the Acropolis, while Léon Heuzey anticipated that the city and its Hellenic rampart extended towards the plain. During the only systematic exploration of the defensive system of the lower city, in 1937, the high level of the water table in the plain of Philippi, which was then in full sanitation operation, prevented archaeologists from reaching the foundations of the rampart . Nevertheless, the occasional surveys reached the large blocks of Macedonian foundations, reused as foundations of the Byzantine ramparts. On the southern part of the site, the Byzantine rampart can be seen as a line of embankment from which sections of ruins emerge from point to point, and Jacques Roger believes that this Byzantine layout must also take up the primitive foundations there.

The enclosure has the rough shape of a truncated rectangle with a perimeter of 3.5 km, oriented almost exactly on the cardinal points, from north to south: the small north side is the only one to have a sinuous layout, which follows the line of the crest of the acropolis by joining its two summits. The other sides of the enclosure are generally rectilinear with some occasional deviations, mainly on the east side, where the curtain wall describes some recesses quite close to the rack teeth which characterize certain Greek fortifications. Two monumental gates marked the passage of the road which crossed the city, "gate of Néapolis" to the east, "gate of Crenides" to the west, another more modest opened onto the plain and the marsh, a last at the top of the acropolis served the fortress. The latter, at the northwest corner of the enclosure, is almost everywhere replaced by Byzantine constructions.

 

History

Establishment and development in the Hellenistic world

In the area of ​​today's city and especially in Toumba, the International Fair, Karabournaki, Polichni, Nea Efkarpia, Stavroupoli and Pylaia there were prehistoric and later settlements and settlements. Until the 6th century BC. the area was inhabited by tribes such as the Phrygians, the Paeonians, the Mygdons etc. According to Hecataeus the Milesian, in his time the Thracians and the Greeks prevailed. The period 510 BC-480 BC. the area had been subjugated to the Persians. The Macedonians must have moved to the area of ​​the Thermaic Gulf in the 6th century BC.

An important settlement was Thermi, which is placed by most archaeologists in Karabournaki. It had the largest and safest port in the region, otherwise Xerxes I of Persia would not have chosen it to anchor there and rest his fleet. Thermi was occupied in 431 BC. by the Athenians, who two years later handed it over to the Macedonian king Perdiccas II. In the second half of the 4th century BC, the Athenians again mediated in order for Thermi to fall under the rule of the legal heirs to the throne of Macedonia and not to the usurper Pausanias.

There are two main testimonies regarding the founding of Thessaloniki. The first belongs to the ancient historian Strabo and is the most prevalent among modern historians with differences in the year of foundation.

According to Strabo, in 316 BC. or 315 BC. Kassandros, general of Macedonia and curator of Alexander IV, the minor son of Alexander the Great, founded Thessaloniki. In fact, Thessaloniki was one of the two cities founded by Kassandros. The other was Plataea, Boeotia.

The second testimony is of Stephen of Byzantium, who considers Philip II as the founder of the city.

The prevailing view of the founding of Thessaloniki by the usurper of the throne of the kingdom of Macedonia, Kassandros, relates his choice to the perception of the strategic location of this innermost cavity of the Macedonian coastline, which could easily connect the hinterland with the sea. creating the conditions for a prosperous trade movement, while also providing security from raids.

In addition, Kassandros considered the armament of Thessaloniki as a second act, which would legitimize his claims to the Macedonian throne after his marriage to a descendant of the royal dynasty. In Hellenistic Thessaloniki, as far as we know, there were the tribes: Antigonis, Dionysia and Asklipia and the municipalities of Voukefalia and Kekropis.

 

With the ancient city of Thermi as its main axis, Kassandros forced the populations of 26 local coastal settlements and villages of the wider region and western Halkidiki to relocate, creating the new state, which he named in honor of his wife, Thessaloniki. Due to its location, which connected Macedonia with the Aegean Sea, Thessaloniki in a very short time became the most important city in all of Macedonia. The commercial importance of the city attracted from early (3rd century BC) various settlers (Egyptians, Syrians, Jews) increasing its population and topographic size, while maintaining trade contacts with all ports of the East. From the historical data it seems that the city had a permanent guard of Galatian mercenaries.

Very little is known about the Hellenistic history of the city. In the first years of Thessaloniki's life, the competition with the also Macedonian colony of Demitriados in the Pagasitic Gulf began. One could say that it surpassed the capital Pella in glory and splendor, since it was the base of the Macedonian fleet. The ancient Macedonians believed that the city was protected by the gods of Olympus. A section of a magnificent building has been unveiled in the modern Dioikitirio square, which may have been the royal residence of the Macedonian kings.

In 287 BC. When the kings Pyrrhus of Epirus and Lysimachus defeated the king of Macedonia Demetrius the Besieger, it seems that Thessaloniki fell temporarily to the possession of the first and later of the second. In all probability, Thessaloniki was walled up at the same time as its founding. However, the walls saved the city in 279 BC, when the Celts attempted to conquer it and were forced to leave for Delphi and Aetolia. After a series of upheavals, the Macedonian city fell to the Antigonids (277 BC). In 273 BC. In the city, the defeated by Pyrros, Antigonus Gonatas, took refuge in an attempt to regroup the army, in order to beat the invader Pyrros. There, in fact, a powerful fleet was built in its port, defeating the Ptolemaic. This benefited the nymph of Thermaikos. From the years of the reign of Antigonus II began the period of dense habitation of Thessaloniki. In a decree of Istiaia (270 BC-200 BC), two Thessalonians are mentioned in the list of its consuls, while in another of 224 BC / 223 BC. mentions a famous priest of Thessaloniki. At the same time between the years 239 BC. with 221 BC The visits of the two Antigonid kings to the city, Demetrius II and Antigonus III, are reported.

In 197 BC. Philip V took refuge in Thessaloniki after his defeat in the battle of Kynos Kefalos by the Romans. In 187 BC. the city minted its first coins with the inscription THESSALONIKI and depicted Dionysus, Hermes, Pegasus, the goat and the goat. Also on the 15th of December of the same year, Philip V issued a royal decree in a marble column, addressed to Andronikos' trusted representative, for the management of the Serapion. In 185 BC. King Antigonides accompanied the Roman embassy to Thessaloniki through the Valley of the Temples. There was a meeting between Macedonians and Romans about the fate of the Macedonians under Macedonian rule. After the end of the Thracian campaign (184 BC-183 BC) a conspiracy was revealed against Philip by his pro-Roman son, Demetrius, to overthrow him.

In order to overthrow the pro-Roman hearths of Macedonia that focused on the coastal cities, Philip transported settlers from the interior of the country to the coast and vice versa. These harsh measures displeased Thessaloniki, although this measure promoted its economy and military security. Eventually he devised his plan of extermination in Thessaloniki. This happened after wintering in the city in the winter of 181 BC / 180 BC. During the spring of 179 BC. Philip toured from Demitriada to Thessaloniki, showing the lords the successor he intended: Antigonus, nephew of Antigonus Doson.

 

It is worth mentioning during this period a child of Hellenistic Thessaloniki, Ion. He was the leader together with Artemon of Dolopia, a corps of 400 javelin throwers and an equal number of slingers during the battle of Kallinikos (May 171 BC), which ended with the victory of the Macedonians. He was also the protector of Perseus' sons, whom he later handed over to the Romans after the battle of Pydna. During the Roman-Macedonian wars, in June 169 BC, the city, along with Aeneas, Cassandria and Antigoneia, heroically repulsed the attacks of the Roman fleet of Gaius Mark Figos, in which Eumenes II assisted. of Pergamon and Prussia II of Bithynia. Then 500 Gauls of Thessaloniki, strengthened the defense of Cassandreia, which again repulsed a naval attack by the Romans. At the administrative level the city enjoyed controlled autonomy, which was managed by the Church of the Municipality and the Parliament, being at the same time under the sovereignty of the king, who exercised his political power through civil servants - agents, the Royal, while appointing the military administrator , the Superintendent, who had as subordinates the Superintendent and the Commissioners.

 

Roman rule

The overthrow of the kingdom of Antigonids by the Roman troops of the high White Emilius Paul in 168 BC. brought Thessaloniki to the borders of the Roman Republic (Res publica). Two days after the defeat of Perseus at the Battle of Pydna, Thessaloniki was surrendered to the Romans (June 24, 168 BC). Perseus temporarily took refuge in the city, where he ordered its guard, Eumenes, to gather the Macedonian fleet in the port and set it on fire.

Until 148 BC, Thessaloniki was the capital of one of the four administrative districts into which the Romans had divided the Hellenistic kingdom, stretching from Strymon to Axios (Macedonia Secunda). However, after the suppression of the revolution of Andriskos, which seems not to have been supported by the Thessalonians, an administrative restructuring took place and Macedonia, with more extensive borders of the kingdom of Antigonids, was declared a Roman province (Provincia Macedonia), ruled by a viceroy with a capital praetor in Thessaloniki.

The construction of the Egnatia Road by the Romans between 146 BC-120 BC, the main military and commercial channel of the eastern administration, which connected the Adriatic Sea with the Hellespont and Asia Minor, promoted its significant importance. city ​​and consolidated its protagonist's paradox within the growing state.

Thus until the second half of the 2nd BC. century, Thessaloniki had emerged as a dominant crossroads and a base of commercial and military activity. In fact, in the following years, the gradual expansion of the Roman state to the east and north resulted in the removal of the danger of barbaric invasions. The dangers reappeared on both the eastern and northern borders much later, when the Goths besieged the city in 254 and 268 AD.

In the civil conflict between the democrats and the imperialists, which followed the assassination of Julius Caesar (44 AD), the inhabitants of Thessaloniki sided with the latter. The complete victory of the emperors Antonios and Octavian against Brutus and Cassius in 42 AD. in Philippi led to the granting of more privileges to the city and the actual self-government with its proclamation as a "free city" - Civitas Libera.

During Roman rule, many deities were worshiped in Thessaloniki. Apart from the Dodecatheon, honors and worship were attributed to Dionysus, the Kaveri and the Egyptian deities Serapis, Isis and Arpocrates.

During the last pre-Christian century, more and more Jews moved to Thessaloniki, creating a large Jewish community, located near the port. In the synagogue of this community, the Apostle Paul preached the Christian faith in 50 AD. His two letters to the portion of its Christianized members, as well as former nationals of the city, are the oldest texts of the New Testament. However, there is no historical evidence that the Apostle Paul preached in a Jewish synagogue and the only reference in his letters has more to do with the concept of "synagogue" as a gathering.

 

The Christian community of Thessaloniki prospered and became a model for all other Greek communities, as can be seen from the First Epistle of the Apostle Paul, where he praises the local church.

Thessaloniki, like all of Macedonia, followed the long period of prosperity guaranteed by Pax Romana, the eponymous Roman peace that ruled the empire until about the end of the Antonin dynasty. The magnitude of its value is evident from the honorary titles bestowed on it by a number of emperors. During the main imperial period, many Thessalonians were granted the right of Roman citizenship (civitas Romana).

The secular regime ended when Caesar Galerius settled in Thessaloniki. Then began a fierce persecution of Christians. Among other things, Agios Dimitrios martyred in 305 in the city. However, apart from the religious persecutions, Thessaloniki benefited greatly when it was declared the seat of the Gallery, as it was decorated with many public buildings and upgraded politically. Its prosperity continued in the following years, when the emperor Constantine I built a port in front of the walls, which was used until the fall of the Byzantine Empire.

At the stage of the decline of the traditional Roman national-pagan state and the shift of its center of gravity to the east in order to transform in less than a century into the new state entity, which was later called Byzantine, Thessaloniki again played a significant role. Initially as the capital of Galerius and then as a candidate for the new capital of the state, it modeled the dynamics that would be involved during the Christian empire of the East.

 

The Byzantine Colonial city

The city was associated from the beginning with the historical figure who would transform the pagan Roman Empire into the longest-lived Christian kingdom, the founder of the Byzantine state, Constantine. In 324, Constantine, in the context of his dispute with Licinius, used Thessaloniki as a military base, building a new port, the nickname "digging port", in order to gather in it a fleet of 200 "three-masted" galleys and 2000 merchant ships, the which would carry his army of 120,000 men.

After the final domination of Constantine over Likinios in the battle of Chrysoupoli, the latter with the intervention of his sister and husband Constantine the Great was sent into exile to the fortress of the Acropolis of Thessaloniki. There, according to the historian Zosimos, he was assassinated on the orders of Constantine.

The transfer of the capital of the empire to the east, to the old colony of Megara, Byzantium, from here to Constantinople or New Rome, will contribute to the further promotion of Thessaloniki. The growing perception of its geostrategic importance and the works that are being built in the city, with the providence of the emperors Julian and Theodosius the Great, make it "the eye of Europe and, above all, of Greece". It becomes "Conqueror", is called "Megaloupolis" and holds the position of the next city of the empire after Constantinople (Thessaloniki after the great first Roman city).

Theodosius the Great, as Augustus of the East initially, used Thessaloniki as his seat. After repelling the Goths in 378, he embraced Christianity, at the urging of the bishop of Thessaloniki, Ascholio, and proceeded to the systematic fortification of the city, a task he assigned to the Persian Hormisdas. From Thessaloniki he issued the imperial decree which defined Christianity as the official religion of the state. Contrary to what one might expect, Theodosius was not popular with the Thessalonians, due to the gradual penetration of the Goths into the Byzantine army and especially into the imperial guard. Thus, in 390, when the commander of the Gothic garrison, Buterichos, captured a popular chariot race, riots broke out, during which he lost his life. In retaliation, Theodosius ordered the trapping and slaughter of 7,000 Thessalonians at the Hippodrome. Since then, the Hippodrome has not been reused.

Theodosius was imitated by other emperors, who settled in Thessaloniki in order to fight the invaders or the barbaric invaders. The trials of Thessaloniki from the invasions of the Gothic tribes continued until the end of the 5th century, when the city managed to ensure a short period of peace and prosperity. The Macedonian emperor Justinian also helped her, by giving special weight to her problems and reducing Thessaloniki to the capital of the Illyrian praetor (ie the Balkans).

 

By the time of the Iconoclasm, impressive public buildings and many temples had been erected in the city. However, its walls, in which enemy raids and siege attempts were crushed, proved more useful. Between 527-688, the city repulsed dozens of raids by Slavs, Avars, Persians, Draguvites, Sagudites and Verzites. The Thessalonians said that they saw Saint Demetrius many times on the walls, fleeing the invaders.

At the end of the 6th century the Slavic threat appeared, which was to plunder the city for the next two centuries. The Slavic tribes, initially under the leadership of the Avars and later autonomously, made many raids against Thessaloniki with the most important ones of 586 and 597. Finally, the Slavic aspirations were given in 688 by the emperor Justinian II, invoking Rinotmitos, who defeated the Slavs entered the city triumphantly.

When the Iconoclasm began, Thessaloniki became a place of exile for the iconoclasts of the queen. Among them was Saint Theodore the Studite. In reaction to the iconoclastic attitude of the Church of Rome, the emperor Leo III Isaurus seized the eastern Illyrian from the ecclesiastical jurisdiction of Rome and returned it to the Patriarchate of Constantinople. After this event the archbishop of Thessaloniki ceased to be the vicar of the Pope and the local church connected its course with the eastern ecclesiastical administration. In the second half of the 9th century, the mission to the Slavic peoples of the Thessalonian brothers Cyril and Methodius took place, whose action was connected with the beginning of Christianity and the literature of the Slavs. From Thessaloniki Cyril and Methodius started in 863 in order to Christianize the Arabs, the Khazars (in Georgia) and the Slavs (in Great Moravia).

In 904 the city was attacked by the Saracens (Arabs of the West) led by the Islamized Leo the Tripoli. The intensity of the attack and the unpreparedness of the siege led to its conquest and plunder. Thousands of inhabitants were slaughtered, while more were captured and sold as slaves. The following centuries were marked by unsuccessful attempts to occupy Thessaloniki and by the constant wars of the Byzantine Empire with its enemies, mainly in the Balkans. Nevertheless, the 10th and the beginning of the 11th century were characterized as a period of reconstruction and the empire was divided into "subjects". Thessaloniki became the capital of a subject that survived until the 15th century.

 

From the Norman conquest to the top of the Byzantine administration

In 1185 the Norman invaders occupied Durres and then Thessaloniki, a milestone in the history of the city. In the siege, which began on August 15, 1185, the Normans used 200 ships and 80,000 men to blockade the city from land and sea. The supply of the city was not sufficient, the commander of David Komnenos was not able to properly organize the defense, he abandoned the defenders and the reinforcements from Istanbul arrived too late. So the Normans, within a few days (August 24, 1185) after losing 3,000 soldiers, captured Thessaloniki, despite the heroic defense of the inhabitants, and looted it, killing 7,000 of its inhabitants. The main historian of the fall was the Archbishop of Thessaloniki Efstathios, from whose work "History of the fall of Thessaloniki under the Normans" most information is derived.

The occupation of Constantinople by the Franks in 1204 and the overthrow of the empire led the Thessalonians to negotiations with the Frankish ruler Boniface of Momferrato, the result of which was the surrender of the city on the condition of maintaining the old local privileges. Boniface founded the Kingdom of Thessaloniki, which was short-lived, as the city remained under Latin occupation for 20 years.

In 1224 the Despot of Epirus, Theodoros Komninos Doukas, occupied Thessaloniki and was anointed King and Emperor of the Romans by the Archbishop of Ohrid Dimitrios Chomatianos. Thessaloniki was proclaimed co-ruler (Constantinople remained king even though it was still occupied by the Latins) and became the capital of the Despotate of Epirus. Theodoros Doukas extended his territory to Edirne. But before launching the conquest of Istanbul, he wanted to subjugate Bulgaria.

 

The decline of Theodoros Doukas's state began with his defeat in 1230 at the Battle of Klokotnitsa by Ivan Assen II. Most of its territory was occupied by the Bulgarians while in Thessaloniki the successors of Theodore continued to reign until 1246, when it was occupied by the emperor of Nicaea John III Dukas Vatatzis. In 1261, Michael XVI Palaiologos occupied Constantinople, which again became the capital of the Byzantines. Over the years, the position of Thessaloniki was upgraded. In the 14th century it became a real empire, as the Byzantine Empire was now based in the Balkans and not in Asia Minor. The city was usually ruled by the emperor's son or another member of the imperial dynasty.

 

The Zealots Movement and the Palaeologan Renaissance

Thessaloniki as a ruler was involved in the two civil wars, the first between Andronikos II and Andronikos III (1320-1328) and the second between John VI Kantakouzinos and John V Palaiologos (1341-1354). In fact, the attempt of Ioannis Kantakouzinos to occupy the city in 1342 led to the manifestation of a social revolution. The leaders of the insurgents were the Zealots, who came from the middle and lower social strata.

The revolutionary movement of the Zealots emerged as an original democratic island in the medieval world, where hegemony, the separation of the nobles from the people and the "mercy of God" administration were the absolute establishments. The struggle between the Grand Duke Alexios Apokafkos and Ioannis Kantakouzinos for dominance over the Byzantine throne led the empire into a civil war, which resulted in the creation of thousands of economic refugees, crowded in large urban centers such as Thessaloniki.

The growing dissatisfaction of the popular classes against the nobles, who supported Kantakouzenos, brought the attitude of the Zealots in 1342. At the beginning of the year the people of Thessaloniki, sided with Anna of Savoy and the Apocalypse and led by the Zealots, revolted. and looted the houses of the city governor and the wealthy nobles, while those aristocrats who could not escape were exiled and slaughtered. After imposing themselves completely in the city, the Zealots took power.

This early movement of proletarian claim prevailed until 1349 when a regime of self-government was imposed. The Zealots then tried to reach an agreement with the Serbian ruler Stefan Dusan, in order to strengthen their position. The people of Thessaloniki reacted and the counter-revolution, organized by members of the imperial court, overthrew the Zealots, whose leaders were forced to leave the city.

In 1350 Anna of Savoy settled in the city, who ruled in the name of her son, John V. Contrary to what might be expected, the political unrest did not prevent the city from flourishing. During the first half of the 14th century, many scholars lived in Thessaloniki and temples, monasteries and secular public buildings were built. Especially in the field of art, the schools of Thessaloniki influenced the entire Balkan Christian world and Russia. This whole spiritual movement was called the Palaeologan Renaissance and is the period during which the ruling Thessaloniki claims the spiritual primacy of the empire. After 1350, the greatest theologian of the 14th century and pioneer of the Hesychasm movement, Saint Gregory Palamas, settled in Thessaloniki. The hesychastic movement, although it was a brake on the teaching of philosophical studies and classical education, nevertheless renewed the monastic movement and art that continued to survive on Mount Athos even after the overthrow of the Byzantine Empire.

 

Ottoman period

The Ottoman advance into the European territories of the Byzantine Empire and the gradual occupation of the Balkan Peninsula manifested their effects in Thessaloniki, which, excluded from the land and without the possibility of receiving foreign aid in 1387, after a four-year siege, became a tax haven. AD and accepted an Ottoman guard. Two years later, and in a climate of uncertainty that temporarily prevailed after the assassination of Sultan Murad I, the Thessalonians drove out the Ottoman garrison of the city.

The historian Doukas mentions the destruction of Thessaloniki in 1391 by Bayezid I due to the escape of Manuel II from the sultan's court and his rise to emperor. From that time there is the first reference in Greek sources for child molestation, the forced Islamization of children. This happened in 1395 and refers to a consoling speech of the then Archbishop of Thessaloniki Isidoros to the parents of the children. Thessaloniki is considered to be the first major Greek city to pay this "blood tax".

 

The first Ottoman occupation of the city lasted until 1403 when Emperor Manuel, taking advantage of the defeat of Bayezid by the Mongols of Tamerlane at the Battle of Ankara (1402) and the ensuing civil strife between his sons for succession, succeeded in Thessaloniki in exchange for his contribution to Bayezid's son, Suleiman Tselebi.

The alleviation of the internal problems of the Ottoman hegemony, its new aggressive momentum against the Byzantine lands but also the weakness of the decadent empire in their defense led in 1423 Andronikos Palaiologos, son of the emperor of Thessaloniki Manolos to Paul to the Venetians.

The seven-year occupation by the troops of the Venetian Republic was essentially a period of decline for the city. Its naval and land blockade by the Ottomans meant its economic weakening, which in combination with the dynastic behavior of the Venetians intensified popular discontent.

During the siege under Sultan Murad II the city resisted and did not accept the sultan's proposal for surrender. Then the sultan "preached with a trumpet (to his army) saying: I give you everything in the city, men, women, children, silver and gold, just leave the city to me". Finally, the "ruling city" of the Eastern Roman Empire was finally occupied by the Ottomans on March 29, 1430 after a strong siege of three days. Wild plunder and captivity of the inhabitants followed. The captives are estimated at about 7,000. Some of them were released after being bought by relatives and friends, others were not sold, while part of the population had already left before the fall and did not return. The sultan allowed those who were liberated to settle in the city and keep their property, while he confiscated all the property that was left homeless and distributed it to the Ottomans who settled in the suburbs (Genitze Vardar). At first he did not bother the churches and monasteries, but after he returned two years later and after the Ottomans had settled in the suburbs, he confiscated churches and monasteries with their property and income. He donated the most important of them to his confidants or changed them into mosques and seminaries. He left to the Christians only four small churches, including that of Agios Dimitrios.

The first years of the Ottoman conquest were difficult, as the war fronts were still close, the population had greatly decreased and trade was steadily declining. In fact, according to sources of the time, the inhabitants of the city did not exceed 2,000 people at the time immediately after its conquest. Sultan Murad II brought 1,000 families of Yuruks from Giannitsa and Christians from Halkidiki. The multinational character of the Ottoman Empire and its relative tolerance of the "peoples of the Bible", as indicated by the prevailing Islamic law, helped to settle the persecuted Jews. Thessaloniki received Ashkenazi Jews from Central European countries and Sephardim, who were expelled from Spain after the final overthrow of the Arab state of Granada. It is estimated that by the end of the 15th century, almost 20,000 Jews from Spain had settled in Thessaloniki, which radically changed the image of the city. In the census of 1519, Thessaloniki had 29,220 inhabitants, of whom 53.8% were Jews, 23.5% Muslims and 22.7% Christians.

Between 1520 and 1530 the city had 2645 Jewish families, 1229 Ottoman and 989 Christian. The Jews of Central Europe (Ashkenazim), who began to settle in Thessaloniki in 1376, were not assimilated by the larger Jewish population that arrived after 1492 from Spain, as they remained committed to their own traditions. The Jews were the dominant element of the city, both demographically and economically. The different religious communities lived in different neighborhoods. At the beginning of the 17th century there were 56 Jewish quarters, 48 ​​Muslim and 16 Christian.

 

The population of the urban center fluctuated considerably, mainly due to the frequent fires and the many epidemics that plagued the city until the 18th century. Disagreements were also frequent, not so much between the three religious communities, but within each other. Most important was the presence and action of the pseudo-media Sabethai Sevi, who initially presented himself as the Messiah to the Jews of Thessaloniki, but later (1666) embraced Islam along with many thousands of his followers, who were called "donmedes". [70] Most disputes among Muslims were caused by social inequalities and janissary uprisings. The most important dispute concerning the Greek Christian community was the dispute over the management of the community between the metropolitan of Thessaloniki and the rulers of the city.

From an economic point of view, the city began to prosper after 1520. At that time, handicrafts (textiles, goldsmithing, carpet weaving, tannery) and international trade developed. This flourishing continued until the middle of the 17th century. Then the economic data changed, as world trade moved to the Atlantic and the Ottoman Empire itself entered a phase of decline. The hardship lasted until the second decade of the 18th century, when trade resumed, this time to Austria and Russia, mainly through tobacco, wool and cotton. Growth was to continue until the Napoleonic Wars (1798-1814), when the recession that struck Europe did not leave the Ottoman Empire unaffected. Freight traffic began to increase steadily after 1840.

Although at the beginning of the 19th century the Greeks had come to compete in population and economy with the Jewish community -especially after the great massacre at the outbreak of the Greek Revolution of 1821- Thessaloniki continued to be until 1912 a unique, global city phenomenon with such a large Jewish community, and was called by the Jews themselves "Jerusalem of the Balkans" and "Mother of Israel".

Thessaloniki or Thessaloniki, according to the Turkish variant of its name, continued throughout its stay within the borders of the sultanate to be an important administrative, economic and religious center with a role similar to that held in the Byzantine period. Bath complexes, Islamic monasteries, mosques were erected, and several Christian temples were converted into places of Muslim worship. The church of Agios Dimitrios was converted into a mosque in 1491 and remained so until its liberation in 1912. Until the Hati-Humayun decree (1856) it was not allowed to build new Christian churches in places where there were no pre-existing temples. In 1669, the French monk Robert de Dro mentioned Thessaloniki as one of the most beautiful and famous cities in Greece. In 1737, the French priest and writer Joseph de la Porte reported that Thessaloniki numbered 48 mosques, 30 churches and 36 synagogues.

 

The Greek revolution of 1821

The Thessalonians organized and organized Hellenism from a very early age, in order to create the conditions for a universal Greek revolution. The scholar from Thessaloniki, Grigorios Zalykis, was the pioneer of the establishment of the secret organization Ellinoglosso Hotel, the forerunner of the Friendly Society, in Paris in 1809.

The merchant Michael Ouzounidis was one of the original members of the Friendly Society. Also, the teacher and scholar Miltiadis Agathonikos contributed a lot as a teacher to the awakening of the Greeks. Other notable members of the Friendly Society from Thessaloniki were the diplomat Dimitrios Argyropoulos, Ioannis Skandalidis, Nikolaos Ouzounidis, Pantazis Bakaloglous and the merchants Moschos Sakellios, Athanasios Skandalos, Christodoulos Palos. Sporadic uprisings with mainly social demands, coming from the Greek population, were relatively easily suppressed by the administration. However, the Ottomans showed special cruelty with the outbreak of the revolution in Halkidiki in March 1821 by the banker and merchant Emmanuel Papa, when retaliation was applied against the Greeks in Thessaloniki. Firman of May 3, 1821 reported:
The movement of the unbelievers and cursed Greeks in Moldavia, spread to the country beyond Thessaloniki, provoked anarchy and turmoil among the inhabitants there ... From these events it was once shown that this revolution of the unbelievers has a general character. devised and pre-planned after consultation of the whole tribe.

 

At the proclamation of the commander-in-chief of the Ottoman army to the Muslims of Thessaloniki, all Muslims aged 16-60 were called to take up arms against the revolutionaries. A fee of four piastres was announced for each head that would be delivered to the camp. Signed by Abdul Kabul Mohammed, "commander of the faithful of Macedonia and Thessaly".

Initially about 400 Christians, 100 of whom were Mount Athos monks, were taken hostage, most of whom were later executed. Most of the massacres took place in May 1821, marking the beginning of a period of terrorism, which lasted until 1823, the year in which the Macedonian revolutionary movements were suppressed.

During the Greek Revolution of 1821 the Ottomans also killed the commissioner of the metropolitan of Thessaloniki and bishop Kitros Meletios, the nobles (members of the Friendly Society) Georgios Vlalis, Christos Menexes (commissioner of the church of Agios Minas), Christodoulos Georgios Balaos Polydoros, Athanasios Skandalidis, Anastasios Gounari, Dimitrios Pappas, Anastasios Kidoniatis, Argyros Tapouchtsis from Epanomi etc. in the then Alevragoras square (today's market Kapani - Vlali), on May 18 [80]. Massacres also took place in the area of ​​Rotonda and at the Axios Gate. Similar scenes unfolded in the courtyard of the metropolitan church of St. Gregory of Palamas, where 2,000 Greeks had taken refuge, and many of them were eventually killed by the Turkish mob. Later, in 1822, the Greek prominent and consul of Denmark, Emmanuel Kyriakou, was strangled after many days of imprisonment.

In total, the Greeks of Thessaloniki who fell victim to the executions of the Ottomans are estimated at 25,000 in 1821 alone, which caused an irreparable blow to the Greek community of the city (the Greek community recovered in the 1880s, ie 60 years later). Important personalities of Thessaloniki who led the Greek games at that time were Grigorios Zalykis, Miltiadis Agathonikos, Konstantinos Tattis, Ioannis Goutas Kaftantzoglou, Ioannis Michael (who participated in the General Assembly of the National Assembly, Ioannis Troizinas, Paikos, Antonios Papachristou, Anastasios Boudelis and others.

It is characteristic that the first secretary of the Parliament of the First National Assembly of Epidaurus was Ioannis Skandalidis from Thessaloniki, one of the proxies of Macedonia, while the beginning of the Revolution was proclaimed by Dimitrios Argyropoulos from Thessaloniki on February 21st, February 21st. The revolution in Macedonia ended around the end of May 1822. After that many warriors landed in Central and Southern Greece where they continued the struggle.

The villages near Thessaloniki also suffered great damage, especially to the area of ​​Halkidiki, even those that did not revolt. The situation of the province during June and July 1821 is reported by an English eyewitness. After the uprising of Greek villages in Halkidiki, many Muslims took refuge in Thessaloniki for protection while their villages were burned. The Turkish army counterattacked and looted and burned Vasilika, Karabournou, Epanomi and Galatista and others, even those that had not revolted like Zagliveri. The monks of the Monastery of Agia Anastasia (Pharmacist) were beheaded despite opening the doors and welcoming the Turks. Large numbers of Jews followed the Turkish army and bought booty at low prices. Women and children were sold as slaves, old women for 40-60 piastres and women and children for 200-300. The entire area of ​​Kalamaria (meaning western Halkidiki) which numbered about 60,000 inhabitants was destroyed and deserted.

Prominent and ordinary Greeks were held hostage or even killed by beatings, while the Greeks also killed the Turks they captured. The Turkish administration forcibly extracted large sums of money that the Greeks, in order to save, pledged valuable objects and church utensils at low prices or borrowed from the Jews at an interest rate of 30-50%.

 

Development course and Macedonian Struggle

The end of the Russo-Turkish War of 1828–1829 brought calm to the European territories of Turkey and the consequent economic development. The positive climate was intensified by the Tanzimat reforms from the end of the 1830s. Thessaloniki further increased its commercial power while at the same time the reconstruction of important administrative, educational and private buildings began. The last decades of the 19th century saw a significant increase in population, from 50,000 in 1865 to 90,000 in 1880 and 120,000 in 1895.

 

In 1877, while international fermentations were taking place that led to the Treaty of Agios Stefanos, Romanian newspapers published statistics with Romanian populations in Thessaly, Epirus and Macedonia in an attempt to appropriate the Vlachs. In this context, they presented statistics of the Romanian consulate in Thessaloniki, presenting Thessaloniki with a population of 20,000 Romanians. This was followed by strong reactions and incidents caused by the Greek students from Thessaloniki outside the Romanian consulate which ended in a majestic silent parade (several thousand protesters) ending at the Romanian consulate. Representatives of the Israeli community of the city also participated in the silent demonstration, in order to support the Greekness of the Christian population of the city.

The consequence of the reactions was that the Ottoman Governor of Thessaloniki published official statistics presenting the Greek population at 25,000 (out of a total of almost 90,000 inhabitants) and expelled the Romanian consul. During the Macedonian Struggle, the Thessalonians organized, founding the Philoptochos Brotherhood of Men of Thessaloniki in 1871 which developed intense national action. The prominent of the city Konstantinos Matsas tried as early as 1899 to equip the Hellenism of the city, realizing the impending danger. Important Thessaloniki chiefs were Georgios Savvas and Georgios Pentzikis. On January 20, 1904, a large anti-Bulgarian rally took place in the city, with the participation of 6,000 Greek protesters. By 1908, the Thessalonians succeeded in overthrowing the Bulgarian effort to create nuclei of the Bulgarian population in the city, by transporting and settling Bulgarian immigrants.

 

The Neo-Turkish movement and the national liberation movements

The current of nationalist ideology, which followed the French Revolution and spread throughout the Old Continent, began, gradually growing in the 19th century, to influence the Balkan ethnic groups, which were in Ottoman territory. A first case of these was the massacre of consuls in Thessaloniki that took place on May 6, 1876.

The Greek element strongly clashed with the Bulgarian, which with the action of the komitatzids tried to convert the Orthodox populations from the normal jurisdiction of the Ecumenical Patriarchate to the Bulgarian Exarchate Church with the aim of Bulgarianizing them. After the Aprilians of 1903, this conflict culminated in the years 1904-1908, during the Macedonian Struggle, where the headquarters of the Greek fighters was the Greek consulate in Thessaloniki (today the Museum of the Macedonian Struggle).

Along with the nationalist movements, another movement was developing with executives from the military and intellectual elite of the Ottoman Empire and its center in Thessaloniki. The aims of this movement were the democratization, the modernization and the transformation into a European-style constitutional monarchy of the faltering and declining Empire and its political springboard was the "Committee for Unity and Progress" (İttihad ve Terakki Cemiyeti) - Committee of the Union and Progress whose action began in 1896 and in its ranks included progressive personalities from the dominant Macedonian ethnicities led by the Turks. The members of this committee became known as the Neo-Turks (Jön Türkler - Jones Türkler from the French Jeunes Turcs) and in its first steps became a body of bourgeois change with anti-imperialist rhetoric.

In June 1908, the Neo-Turks had the power to demand from Sultan Abdul Hamid II a change of state to a constitutional monarchy. Thus, with an impressive military move, the third corps of the Ottoman army started from Thessaloniki in the direction of the headquarters of the House of Ottomans, Istanbul, where the Neo-Turkish Revolution culminated, resulting in the concession of the Constitution on July 24, 1908.

The conservative Paleo-Turkish counter-revolution of 1909 helped the authoritarian Abdul Hamid abolish constitutional privileges. Soon, however, the Neo-Turks regained control of the situation, forcing the Sultan to resign and detaining his moderate brother, Mehmet E. Resat. Abdul Hamid was taken to the political center of the Neo-Turks, Thessaloniki, where he remained under guard at the Allatini Mansion (today's historic building of the Region of Central Macedonia) until 1912.

 

The last important event of the Ottoman rule in Thessaloniki was the visit to the city of Mehmet on May 31, 1911, as part of his tour of the European territories of the Empire. The highlight of the visit was the parade of ethnic groups in front of the monarch and his impressive pilgrimage to the Hagia Sophia, according to the official formal of Friday's pilgrimage to the Hamidiye Mosque in Istanbul.

 

Liberation from the Ottoman Empire

The proof of the real political intentions of the leading group of the Neo-Turks, whose main goal was the Turkification of the Ottoman Empire, through the elimination of the minorities, and the hardening of the state policy towards them brought the outbreak of the First Balkan War. The four Balkan kingdoms, Greece, Serbia, Bulgaria and Montenegro, declared war on the Ottoman Empire, seeking to conquer and divide its European territories, inhabited by a significant portion of their "unredeemed" compatriots.

The city of Thessaloniki was the disputed "booty" between Greeks and Bulgarians. The victories of the Greeks in important battles had created a positive atmosphere in the army, which was heading for the conquest of the Monastery, a Balkan city with a prosperous Greek population. The head of the army of Thessaly and commander-in-chief, Successor Constantine, after the victorious Battle of Sarandaporos was moving towards the Monastery. The information to the Greek government, however, referred to the advance of the Bulgarian troops further south, with the aim of occupying Thessaloniki. Venizelos telegraphed to Konstantinos to move quickly to Thessaloniki, but when he found out that the successor was obstructing, he sent the famous telegram:

 

Army Chief

Once you have received this, hand over the command of the army to its Commander.
General Staff Lieutenant General Daglin and leave immediately for Athens,
at the disposal of the Minister of the Army.
E. Venizelos, Minister of the Army

Thus, on the night of October 26-27, 1912 (Julian calendar), the plenipotentiary officers, Victor Dousmanis and Ioannis Metaxas, signed in Thessaloniki the protocols for the surrender of the city by the Ottoman administration to the Greek army and on the afternoon of October 27 the first two Greek eunuch divisions of the Kleomenos division.

Meanwhile, the Bulgarians, who had approached the city, pressured Hassan Thaksin Pasha to sign a similar protocol with them. Their proposal, however, was not accepted with the characteristic answer of the Ottoman general: "I have only one Thessaloniki, which I have already surrendered". Nevertheless, the Bulgarian claims did not stop until the Second Balkan War, when its victorious result, for the Greek side, brought a final solution to the issue.

Another factor that tried to influence the territorial regime of Thessaloniki, was the Austro-Hungarian Empire, which with the support of Germany unsuccessfully sought the internationalization of the city. Another section of the Jewish community promoted a proposal for an autonomous regime under Israeli rule abroad.

 

On October 29, King George I entered the city at the head of army units and on October 30, Metropolitan Gennadios of Thessaloniki performed a eulogy at the then Cathedral of Agios Minas "on the liberation of the city" after 482 years of continuous Ottoman occupation.

 

Modern history

After the liberation in 1912, the Ottoman administrative structure of the city was maintained for a long time to avoid the economic and social disintegration of the city. It is characteristic that in the days after the surrender of the city, the Ottoman gendarmerie continued armed to maintain order, while the mayor Osman Sait remained mayor, with a few breaks until 1922. In March 1913, King George I was assassinated in Thessaloniki.

Greece has not participated in World War I since its outbreak despite calls for an alliance from both rival factions. However, with the excuse of helping Serbia, but also indifference to the national independence of Greece, Entente forces landed in the city in October 1915 in order to blackmail Greece's entry into the war.

The Balkan Front was formed, consisting of tens of thousands of men and intended to provide support to Serbia and Russia. The National Divide, as the controversy (1916) between King Constantine IBS and Eleftherios Venizelos was called over Greece's exit from the First World War, led to the formation of a second government by Venizelos, based in Thessaloniki. The "Provisional Government of National Defense" consisted of Venizelos, Daglis and Koundouriotis the so-called "Triandria". Thus Greece entered the war, on the side of Entente, leading at the same time to the expulsion of King Constantine I in favor of his son Alexander.

The great fire of 1917 was the worst disaster the city suffered in recent years. It completely destroyed buildings of rare architectural value in the city center, shops, churches, mosques and synagogues and mainly thousands of houses, leaving 72,000 residents homeless, and caused huge economic and social problems in the city already burdened by the influx of refugees. war zones and Thrace under Bulgarian rule.

The new city was built on the site of these buildings, based on a plan drawn up by the French architect Ernest Emprar. After the Asia Minor Catastrophe in 1922, but also in the period 1923-1924, in the framework of the Greek-Turkish Population Exchange agreed with the Treaty of Lausanne, refugees from Asia Minor and Eastern Thrace settled in the city. The influx of refugees was so intense that it forced the establishment of new, exclusively refugee neighborhoods and settlements, such as Naples and Kalamaria, while the Muslim population of the city was included in the "interchangeable" who were forced to move to Turkey.

In 1925, with the help of Alexandros Papanastasiou, the University was founded in the city, which later (1954) was renamed Aristotle University of Thessaloniki in honor of the philosopher Aristotle and today is the largest educational institution in Greece. The first International Exhibition of Thessaloniki was inaugurated on October 3, 1926.

Throughout the interwar period, the social upheavals caused by the activism of a large number of refugee workers and the capacity of Jewish workers, gave a great impetus to the already developed labor movements in the city. As early as 1908, the socialist organization Federation was founded under the leadership of Abraham Benaroya, which pioneered the organization of the trade union movement and later the creation of SEKE / KKE. At the beginning of the 1930s and until the imposition of the dictatorship of Ioannis Metaxas, in Thessaloniki there were continuous demonstrations and strikes by groups of workers such as tobacco workers, tram workers, etc. The workers' mobilizations culminated in the city in May 1936, with the great strike and demonstration of the tobacco workers, which was drowned in blood by the dictatorial government of Metaxa, with a total of twelve dead, including the 25-year-old motorist Tassos Tousis More than 280 people were injured. The photo that immortalized Tasos Tousis's mother mourning him alone in the middle of the street, at the intersection of Venizelou and Egnatia streets, was published in the press and was the inspiration for Giannis Ritsos.

 

At the same time, several nationalist / anti-Zionist organizations appeared in response to the large presence of Jewish workers, with various problems, most notably the burning of Campbell, a Jewish slum in Kalamaria, on June 29, 1931.

 

Occupation and National Resistance

During World War II, on April 9, Thessaloniki was occupied by Nazi forces. The Jews were confined to the Hirsch community, their property confiscated and divided between German officers and Greek collaborators. Eventually, the entire Jewish population of the city was taken to the Nazi concentration camps of Auschwitz II Birkenau and Bergen-Belzen. About 46,000 Jews from Thessaloniki were exterminated during that period. On May 15, 1941, a month after the occupation of the country by the occupiers, the first resistance organization in Greece, "Eleftheria", was founded in the Eptalofos refugee district of Asia Minor, with its newspaper of the same name and the first illegal printing house in the same district. . Executions of Greeks during the occupation took place systematically at the Dudular (Diavata) positions, at the Sedes airport and mainly at the "Pavlos Melas" Camp, at Eptapyrgio and at the Red House in Damari.

On May 11, 1944, the Nazis executed eight young resistance fighters, aged 20-30, in the area of ​​Kaistri between Eptalofos and Xirokrini. The city was liberated on October 30, 1944.

 

Second half of the 20th century until today

In 1954 the Minister of Public Works K. Karamanlis demolished the tram lines of Thessaloniki and abolished the tram line Depo-Tsimiski. The tram operated from 1893 as a horse and from 1908 as an electric one. In 1957, K. Karamanlis, as Prime Minister, abolished the rest of the tram network and in his place founded the monopoly private Urban Transport Organization of Thessaloniki.

On May 27, 1963, Grigoris Lambrakis, a physician, athlete and politician, was assassinated by paramilitaries, causing an international outcry over the authoritarian practices of the Karamanlis government that fueled the uncontrolled paramilitary mechanism in Greece, culminating in the assassination in Thessaloniki. The Lambraki case revived George Papandreou's relentless struggle and played perhaps the most important role in the fall of the Karamanlis government in the same year.

During the Dictatorship, many persecutions and tortures of resistance fighters took place, culminating in the murder - after torture - by the security organs of George Tsarouchas, a former member of the EDA. and executives of the K.K.E. In Thessaloniki on September 5, 1967, Giannis Chalkidis (member of the Lambraki Democratic Youth of Ampelokipi and the United Democratic Left and member of the resistance-dictatorship organization Patriotic Front) was cold-bloodedly killed by the gendarme Antonis Lepitis .

On June 20, 1978, a major earthquake caused a total of 49 deaths and property damage of 1.2 billion euros, which were soon repaired. 220 people were injured. This earthquake was the first to hit a large urban center in Greece.

The European Center for the Development of Vocational Training - Cedefop, one of the decentralized agencies of the European Union, was established in 1995 in Thessaloniki with the mission of developing and implementing European policies for vocational education and training.

In 1997 Thessaloniki was the European Capital of Culture and in 2014 the European Youth Capital.

During the period 26 - 28 October 2012 the city celebrated the 100th anniversary of its liberation. In 2017, during the celebrations, the arrival of the historic Battleship Averoff took place in the port of the city.