Groningen (Gronings: Grunn, Grunnen or Stad, Frisian: Grins), is
the capital of the Dutch province of Groningen, and the largest core
in the municipality of the same name. The place is referred to as
City in the provinces of Groningen and Drenthe. In 2020 the city of
Groningen had 203,105 inhabitants. It is the largest city in the
northern Netherlands. Groningen is part of the Groningen-Assen
Region partnership.
No written city rights are known for
Groningen. Due to its relatively isolated location in relation to
the successive factual centers of power (Utrecht, The Hague and
Brussels), the city was historically dependent on itself and its
immediate surroundings. As a Hanseatic city, Groningen was part of
the North German trade network, but it later became mainly a
regional market center. After this, Groningen gradually developed
into an influential center of power. The city could actually be
considered a city-state during the 15th century, at the height of
its power. Since the Republic, Groningen was nominally part of the
Netherlands, but until the French era, Groningen actually remained
an autonomous city, ruling most of the province. After the French
period, the city lost its predominant position in the province.
Groningen developed from a municipality with 23,000 inhabitants
in 1795 to a municipality with about 100,000 inhabitants in 1930. At
the end of the Second World War, there was fighting in Groningen,
and during the liberation in 1945 a large part of the city center
went up in flames . Nowadays Groningen is a city with varied trade
and industry. Groningen is also a student city with over 60,000
students, of whom almost 35,000 live in the city (2018).
The origin and meaning of the name Groningen and the
older variant 'Groeningen' are not certain. Poets tried to link it
to a folk tale about exiles from Troy who, under the guidance of a
certain mythical figure Gruno (or Grunius, Gryns or Grunus), is said
to have founded a settlement here with Phrygians from Germany in 453
BC. (according to another tradition in 130 BC) and built a castle on
the Hunze that he called 'Grunoburg'. That castle would later have
been destroyed by the Vikings and later the Saint Walburg Church
might have been built on its foundations. However, there is no
evidence whatsoever for these stories.
Another theory holds
that the name Groningen is derived from the husband's name 'Groni'.
Reference is made here to the occurrence of the early game modes
'Groningi' and 'Groninga' in the 11th century and the old name
'Gronesbeke' for a small water near the Hunze (northern border of
Everswolde (Zuidlaarderveen). people of Groni '.
Yet another
theory about the origin is that the old name Groeningen is derived
from 'Groen-ge'; "green field (s)". 'green' would come from 'cruon'
and an eng (or engge) is an old name for an open field, which was
often hilly in the Saxon part of the Netherlands and Germany. In the
coat of arms of Groningen (and the flag) this would be reflected in
the green stripe; a green strip of land; between the Lauwers, the
Ems and the Wadden Sea.
The Groningen dialect name Grunnen
has the same etymology. Grun, from the older gruun and -inge was
translated into -en or -ens, just like in the name Kantens, which
was probably Kantinge in the past and which still happens today in
Groningen, for example Thesinge becomes Taisen. As with most
Groningen words that end in -en, the -e is also dropped here, so
that you get the pronunciation grunn. Because it is Groningen, it
could also have been Grunnens in Groningen, as in Kantens, which
also explains the Frisian name Grins (compare also Harlingen -
Harns).
In the province of Groningen the place is
traditionally also called "City". Groningen has been the largest
city in the surrounding area for centuries, and for centuries the
only place with city rights in the entire region next to Appingedam.
Outside of that, this name is also used, although most Frisians will
say Grins. Groningen is also referred to as 'City' in the top of
Drenthe. In the Middle Ages, the Latin name Groninga was used on
cards and coins. Groningen was called Groningue at the time of the
French occupation. The inhabitants themselves call themselves
"Stadjers" or "Stadjeder". The city is also called the "metropolis
of the North". City residents affectionately call her "Groot Loug",
that is to say "Groot Dorp". Another nickname of Groningen is
Martinistad, referring to the Martini Tower. The city of Groningen
themselves have the nickname: molle beans.
Groningen originated on the northernmost spur of the Hondsrug. The oldest known written mention, Villa Cruoninga, dates back to 1040, but it is certain that the current city was an inhabited place long before that. The oldest archaeological finds within the area of the present city have been dated using the C14 method to approximately 3950–3720 BC. From 300 BC. Three or four wandering yards (comb fields) were found along the through route from Drenthe to the north: the Herestraat and Oude Boteringestraat. Continuous habitation can be established from the third century. Groningen probably originated from two different centers that arose around 700; one was around the current Martinikerkhof and the other between the Zuiderdiep and the Verbindingskanaal. The city was originally an esdorp with a brink (the Grote Markt) and two ash trees on the north and south sides.
The written history of Groningen begins in 1040 with the donation by the German emperor of goods and rights (the domains) to the church of Utrecht. Parts of the royal property had already been donated to Werden Monastery. Presumably shortly before this deed, at the instigation of the bishop, the construction of a partial land defense around his properties was already started, which also made Groningen a city in terms of appearance. The bishop was probably also responsible for many planning developments in the 11th and 12th centuries, such as the construction of a pattern of cobbled streets with verge ditches that, in the fashion of the time, seems to be based on a Roman castellum and the construction of the Saint Walburg church. around 1100 as its own private chapel.
Groningen must already have had a certain market function for the
immediate vicinity in 1040. The oldest church, the Maartenskerk, was
founded around 800 according to archaeological research. Part of the
donation was also the right to coin, which the Utrecht bishop also
used. Around the year 1000, the wooden St. Martin's Church may be
replaced by a tuff stone after destruction by the Normans and around
1200 by the first phase of the current brick church.
The
initially Drenthe esdorp became an important trading place in the
Middle Ages. The location, on the border of Drenthe and Friesland,
was of great value.
After 1040 a long period follows about
which the sources remain silent when it comes to Groningen. In the
12th century, the southern settlement was probably abandoned in
favor of the northern settlement. From 1227 onwards there is a
fierce struggle between the bishop and some of the inhabitants of
the city in the written sources. The bishop considered himself
ruler, but the distance between Groningen and Utrecht makes it
difficult for the bishop to actually exercise power in the city.
Bishop Hartbert tries to solve this problem by dedicating the
prefecture (viscountry) to his brother. However, by making the
office hereditary, he immediately creates a problem for his
successors. The prefect sets his own course, so that two parties
develop in the city alongside the bishop: the followers of the
prefect and the Stadjers who consider themselves capable of
representing their own interests. In the 13th century, the prefect
had several points of support outside the city on main roads across
the Hunze, where he set up bailiffs or ministerials. In order to
demonstrate their power, the Stadjers in the thirteenth century
replaced their earthen weather on their own by a stone wall, which,
like the predecessor, was probably not closed on the A side. The
power of the bishop, and his prefect, is seriously affected in the
Battle of Ane when episcopal troops, trying to put things right in
Groningen, suffer an ignominious defeat. After that, Groningen will
not care much about the bishop anymore. In the 14th century, all the
prefect's strongholds were destroyed or bought up and demolished.
The growth from village to city in this period is evidenced by
the foundation of a second parish around the Der Aa Church and the
establishment of two monasteries, one of the Franciscans and one of
the Dominicans. The oldest hospital, the Pelstergasthuis, also dates
from this period; it is mentioned for the first time in a papal bull
from 1267. Where the Academy Building now stands, two beguinages
were founded in 1276 and 1284: the Lady Menolda Convent and the Lady
Sywen Convent.
The petrification of the city also takes shape
in houses, where the petrification often aims to make a house
resilient. The oldest surviving buildings date from the thirteenth
(Calmershuis, Hinckaertshuis) and fourteenth century. At the time,
these residential towers rose up to 25 meters high.
Although
there is no formal grant of city law, the city does consider itself
a city. In the early fourteenth century, Bishop Guy of Avesnes also
explicitly recognized the rights of the city.
In the late
Middle Ages, the city was part of the Hanseatic League. However, the
city's trade seems to have a mainly local function. Where in the
thirteenth century merchants from Groningen can still be traced in
distant regions, in the fourteenth century the city mainly became
the marketplace for the surrounding, then Frisian Ommelanden. During
this period, the city also sees itself as Frisian. In 1361 Groningen
was therefore the meeting place of the Upstalsboom. Afterwards,
nothing more will be heard from this general meeting of all Frisian
areas.
In the fifteenth century, Groningen experienced a period of great prosperity. Friesland has been the scene of the disputes between Schieringers and Vetkopers since the fourteenth century. In the neighboring East Frisia a similar battle takes place during this period, which is eventually won by the Cirksenas. As the largest city in the area, Groningen has considerable armed forces that can play a decisive role in local conflicts. Although the city itself is also a battleground of the conflicts between Schieringers and Vetkopers, after the kiss of Groningen, the city manages to establish itself as a pacifier of the area.
Within the current province, Oldambt becomes an area dependent on
the city during this period. The Gorecht, the area south of the
city, is leased from the bishop. Treaties are concluded or renewed
with the Westerkwartier, Hunsingo and Fivelingo, which fix or
strengthen the influence of the city. The city also concluded
treaties about the Lauwers. In Kollum Groningen establishes a
landlord, and in Oostergo Groningen is also seen as the only power
that can provide peace. Leeuwarden accepts a Groningen garrison in
1492, until Albrecht van Saksen takes over in 1498. In Westergo,
only Franeker refuses to accept the power of Groningen.
The
city's prosperity is also evident from the construction of the
current Martini Tower, which takes place during this period. The
tower symbolizes the power that the Stadjers ascribe to themselves.
Within the Holy Roman Empire, Groningen never acquired the legal
status of a "free city" like Frankfurt am Main. What happened was
that the power of the distant Diocese of Utrecht declined and that
the city took up the resulting power vacuum. Groningen placed
without privilege a double-headed eagle as with the coat of arms of
a free imperial city in the city's coat of arms.
The city had
a new earthen wall built around the existing city wall around 1470,
with which the Hunze and the Drentsche Aa were also drawn within the
city walls. In 1473 she obtained staple rights, which meant that all
goods from the Ommelanden had to be offered first in the city from
now on, something that led to a lot of resistance, especially among
the farmers.
Groningen
eventually overplayed its hand in Friesland. The German emperor had
offered Groningen the power of the nation of Friesland, but
Groningen had rejected this as too expensive (the emperor demanded
an annual fee). The emperor then offered it to Albrecht of Saxony,
who accepted it. The partnership encompassed all of Friesland. In
Albrecht's view, this meant not only the current province of
Friesland, but also the Ommelanden, including the city.
The
city was no match for the power of Albrecht and his son George. To
save its body, the city submitted first to the Count of East
Friesland and later to Charles of Gelre. Eventually, the city turned
to Charles V and it was incorporated into the Burgundian Circle
along with the Ommelanden.
After the outbreak of the
uprising, the city chose Spain out of self-interest, but joined the
Republic in 1594, at the time of the reduction of Groningen. Within
the context of the Republic, however, the city remained an
independent entity as a dominant factor within the region of Stad en
Lande until the French era. In 1606 (I.B.M. Matthey estimate based
on the number of fiscal hearths) about 16,600 people lived in the
city, about 20,000 by 1620, and about 23,000 by 1700. There will
then be about 96,000 people living in Stad en Lande as a whole.
Groningen got its university in 1614, first of all as a
ministerial training. In the same period (probably based on an urban
development plan by Johan Sems and Garwer Peters) plans for the
construction of a new northern part of the city were drawn up, which
doubled the size of the city. The orthogonal interpretation fitted
in well with the medieval structure of Groningen, but construction
only started in the 19th century. The walls of Fortress Groningen
were also radically improved. The city thus got its characteristic
structure with 17 workers.
This new fortress was fruitlessly
besieged in the disaster year 1672 by the bishop of Münster,
Bernhard von Galen. Every year on August 28, the city celebrates the
victory over Bommen Berend (see Gronings Ontzet). In 1698 the
fortress was reinforced with 'Nieuwe Werken', namely the Helpman
Line, designed by Menno van Coehoorn.
After the Reformation, the extensive land holdings of the
Groningen monasteries revert to the province. As the first member of
Stad en Lande, the city manages to acquire land from that property
in particular in the Bourtanger swamp. Administratively, these
countries belong to the Oldambt, where the city is politically in
charge. As a private owner and as a public authority, the city
determines the method of extraction and imposes that peat may only
be traded through the city. In 1637 the Winschoterdiep was
constructed, with which the city managed to attract the entire peat
trade in East Groningen. The channels along which the peat is
transported are constructed and exploited by the city (the
Stadskanaal). The peat trade and land ownership in the Peat Colonies
provide a solid basis for Groningen's prosperity. The city also
wanted to show its wealth and at the end of the eighteenth century
organized a competition for a new town hall. Just after the
competition was won by Jacob Otten Husly in 1774, peat extraction
stagnated, which meant that it would take until 1817 before the town
hall was completed in a reduced form.
In 1765, the Groote or
gentlemen's society was founded, now the oldest associations in the
city, together with the lodge L'Union Provinciale from 1772. In 1797
one of the first nursery schools for teachers was founded in
Groningen by the Maatschappij tot Nut van 't Algemeen.
The special position of the city as Lord of
large parts of the province came to an end in the French era.
However, the French closed almost all universities in the
Netherlands, but Groningen and Leiden were allowed to remain open.
After the French period, the city had to redefine its position.
Formally, the city had lost its predominant position in the
province, but the city properties, especially in the Peat Colonies,
continued to contribute significantly to urban finances. The
Stadskanaal was extended to Ter Apel. In the direction of Delfzijl,
the connection was improved by the construction of the Eemskanaal,
while the Hoornsediep was expanded into the Noord-Willemskanaal.
The explanation of the seventeenth century could have
accommodated the growth of the population for two centuries, but
nevertheless began to squeeze during the course of this century.
Expansion outside the walls was not possible due to the military
importance of the city as a fortress. After the Franco-Prussian War
of 1870-1871 it became clear that fortresses like Groningen could no
longer have military significance. The Fortress Act of 1874
therefore put an end to the Fortress Groningen. The Noorderplantsoen
was created on the old walls and the Academic Hospital was
established. Outside the old walls, new neighborhoods arose, first
along the Hereweg, later also the Oosterpoort and on the north side.
At the end of the 19th century, Mulock Houwer drew up a first urban
expansion plan, which appeared in 1903 under the name Plan van
Uitleg and formed the first impetus for the development of the city
in the 20th century.
In the twentieth century, Groningen continued to expand, not only in buildings, but also in surface area. The village Helpman was annexed by Groningen; until 1908 it belonged to the municipality of Haren. The municipalities of Hoogkerk and Noorddijk were added to Groningen in 1969. Groningen also becomes a red city in the twentieth century. In 1901, Eltjo Rugge is elected to the city council, he will remain on the council until 1946 and, as alderman, make a big mark on the development of the city. The Oosterpark district in particular is the product of this social-democratic municipal policy.
During the Second World War, a total of 3,300 inhabitants died,
including 2,800 Jewish civilians. In 1940 the city had a thriving
Jewish community of about 3,000 people, including 250 refugees from
Germany. The first Groningen Jews - 600 men - were drafted into
labor camps by the Germans from August 1942. These deportations
continued until April 1943. Relatively few Groningen Jews went into
hiding. A student committee helped Jewish children find hiding
places. A department of the SD was established in the Scholtenhuis
on the Grote Markt, which carried out a sharp terror. The most
notorious participants in that terror were the later sentenced to
death Dutch SS man Pieter Faber (executed) and his brother Klaas
Carel Faber.
The liberation of Groningen in 1945 was
accompanied by a fierce battle, partly due to the relatively large
German garrison, including SS men. By the start of the war, the city
was home to about 124,000 people, but a flood of refugees from the
south had increased this number to over 150,000. Many resistance
fighters were even arrested and executed shortly before Canadian
soldiers liberated the city. The entire north and east wall of the
Grote Markt was destroyed (see photo), the Martini tower and church
were wonderfully spared.
After the war, the city expanded again. The Laanhuizen, Corpus den Hoorn and De Wijert neighborhoods rose to the south. In the early 1970s, a majority council was established under the leadership of Max van den Berg. One of the results of that college was the introduction of the traffic circulation plan.