Kampen, a charming Hanseatic city in the Dutch province of
Overijssel on the banks of the River IJssel, is often called an
open-air museum. It received city rights in 1236 and peaked as a
major trading hub in the 14th–16th centuries after joining the
Hanseatic League in 1441. Its strategic location on trade routes
between the Zuiderzee and the Rhine brought prosperity, reflected in
its well-preserved medieval core with over 500 national monuments
(rijksmonumenten), including Gothic churches, historic warehouses,
and defensive structures.
The city’s skyline—dominated by church
spires, towers, and gates—creates a picturesque riverside panorama,
best explored on foot through cobbled streets, along the IJsselkade
waterfront promenade, or via guided tours from the Tourist Info at
De Stadskazerne. While it declined after the IJssel silted up and
faced sieges in the Eighty Years’ War, 19th-century engineering
revived its riverfront. Today, it blends medieval heritage with
vibrant cultural life, including museums, shipbuilding traditions,
and events.
The Three Remaining City Gates
Kampen once had about 20 gates in
its fortifications (walls largely demolished in the 19th century). Only
three survive, offering a glimpse into its medieval defenses. They are
among the city’s most photogenic and iconic features.
Koornmarktpoort (Corn Market Gate): The oldest gate (early 14th
century), located riverside near the IJsselkade and Koornmarkt square.
It began as a simple square block and gained two squat round towers in
the 15th century for added defense. Historically used as a prison and
garrison quarters, it guarded grain trade routes. Its sturdy brick
construction and strategic river position make it a standout landmark;
visitors often note its excellent preservation and historical vibe.
Cellebroederspoort (Cellebroeders Gate): Originally from the mid-14th
century (moved to its current park-side location in 1465), it was
rebuilt in elegant Renaissance style around 1617 after the city walls
expanded outward. Named after the nearby Cellebroeders (Friars Minor)
monastery, it features heavy round towers and a grand arched entrance.
One of the best-preserved gates, it evokes the city’s transition from
medieval fortress to Renaissance elegance.
Broederpoort (Brother
Gate): Also dating to 1465 and rebuilt in Renaissance style (1615–1617),
this rectangular gate has four slender towers, giving it a refined,
imposing yet graceful appearance. It stood on the land side near an
earth wall and is a Rijksmonument. Visitors praise its panoramic views
from the towers and the sense of stepping back in time.
Bovenkerk
(St. Nicholas Church / Grote Kerk)
The most prominent landmark
dominating the skyline and riverfront is this massive Gothic basilica,
one of the largest churches in the region. Construction likely began
around 1300 (with possible Romanesque roots) and the main structure was
completed by 1450–1500. It was originally dedicated to St. Nicholas
(patron of sailors and merchants) and later renamed post-Reformation.
Its interior features an early-Renaissance choir screen (1552), a stone
pulpit (c. 1500), and a monumental organ built 1670–1676 (with later
additions, including the famous Hinsz organ from 1742). Notable burials
include the 17th-century painter Hendrick Avercamp. The church’s bells
were cast by the renowned Geert van Wou (c. 1450–1527). No longer used
for regular services since 2017 due to high maintenance costs, it
remains a cultural icon and major tourist draw.
Nieuwe Toren (New
Tower)
This 17th-century carillon tower (built 1648–1664 by Philips
Vingboons) stands along the Oudestraat. It replaced an older chapel and
was built to showcase Kampen’s status (rivaling cities like Amsterdam).
The tower houses a carillon that still plays music, and it offers
panoramic views over the city and river. It’s affectionately still
called “Nieuwe” (new) centuries later.
Stedelijk Museum Kampen
(Municipal Museum) and Old Town Hall
Housed in the late 14th-century
Oude Stadhuis (Old Town Hall), this museum is a highlight of the
historic center. The Gothic building itself is a landmark with
decorative elements like an onion-shaped turret. Collections explore
themes of water (river trade), religion, law & order, and the Dutch
royal family, including the Magistrate’s Court from 1545. A second
location in the former synagogue covers Jewish history and hosts
temporary art exhibitions (modern and historical). It’s an excellent
introduction to Kampen’s layered past.
Stadsbrug Kampen (City
Bridge)
A more modern but instantly recognizable icon (opened 1999),
this lift bridge spans the IJssel and connects the historic center to
the railway station. Its distinctive golden wheels (which turn to raise
the central section for ships) create a striking visual against the
skyline—often called the “bridge with golden wheels.” It’s a favorite
for photos and symbolizes the city’s ongoing connection to the river.
Kamper Kogge and the Koggewerf (Cog Shipyard)
Kampen’s maritime
Hanseatic heritage comes alive here with an authentic reconstruction of
a 14th-century cog merchant ship. Moored at the historic shipyard
(Buitenhaven), the Kamper Kogge represents the vessels that made the
city wealthy. Demonstrations of traditional crafts (rope-making,
blacksmithing, etc.) occur nearby, and visitors can sometimes sail on
replicas. It’s a living museum of medieval shipbuilding.
IJsselkade and the Riverfront
The scenic waterfront promenade along
the IJssel is lined with historic warehouses, colorful facades, moored
boats, and views of the Bovenkerk and gates. It’s the perfect spot for
strolls, especially at sunset, and includes the Liberation Memorial. The
area highlights Kampen’s identity as a river port with ongoing nautical
activity.
Other Notable Landmarks
d’Olde Zwarver windmill
(1842): A traditional working windmill on the outskirts.
De Olifant
tobacco factory: Still produces cigars with 19th-century equipment.
Buitenkerk (Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk): A 14th-century church outside the
old walls, rebuilt in neo-Gothic style in 1809 as a Catholic church.
Kleinste Huisje van Kampen (Smallest House): A tiny former warehouse
turned dwelling (now a quirky mini-museum).
Historic murals and
“frescoes of the middle class” (restored old advertisements) dot the
streets.
Around 1150 there were already wooden
buildings on the place where the current Kampen is located, but the
name Kampen is only mentioned in history in 1227. However, in the
municipal archives of Kampen there is still a charter in which Abel,
the king of Danes and Slaves and Duke of Jutland, a privilege
granted to the Ommelandvaarders, dated September 24, 1251. Kampen
was at that time already an important and powerful city ("the
Rotterdam of the Middle Ages") and had a large fleet of Kog ships.
The Ommelandvaart was made with these Cog ships: the sea voyage
around Denmark to the Baltic Sea. In the cities around the Baltic
Sea salt was traded that Kamper Koggen had brought from Portugal.
The city was granted city rights around 1236, although it is quite
possible that Kampen, like Deventer, Steenwijk, Zwolle and Hasselt,
became city by customary law. The favorable location on the busy
trade route between the Zuiderzee and the Rhine meant that Kampen
quickly developed from a simple settlement to a prosperous trading
city that would grow into one of the most powerful and prominent
cities in northwestern Europe. In the 14th century Kampen exchanged
the polder Mastenbroek with the bishop of Utrecht, Jan van Arkel,
for the right to accretion in the IJsseldelta.
The silting up
of the IJssel from 1430 very gradually put an end to the prosperity
of Kampen. For a long time Kampen did not want to be bound to an
alliance and to make economic and political concessions to other
cities, as was customary in the Hanseatic League. When the County of
Holland waged war against the Hanseatic League, this situation came
to an end: the city was forced to choose either side. Kampen was
originally more oriented towards the Baltic Sea trade and trade with
the hinterland of the Rhine, and therefore formally joined the
Hanseatic League in 1441. The city had a lot of influence within the
Hanseatic League: in spite of loud protest from lower-class cities
on the IJssel and other Hanseatic cities, it was decided in 1448 to
build a bridge over the IJssel. This job was completed in a record
time of 5 months. With this bridge Kampen hoped to have more ties
with the hinterland.
On August 11, 1572, Kampen
was captured from the Spaniards by Willem van den Bergh, a
brother-in-law of William of Orange. After the massacre of Zutphen
on November 15, however, the city voluntarily surrendered to the
Spaniards. In 1578, the city came back into the hands of the States
after the Siege of Kampen, led by George van Lalaing.
The
Dutch War, between the Republic of the United Netherlands and
England and France, marked a definitive end to the enormous power of
the city. Due to the right to accretion in the IJsseldelta, the city
had become the owner of the ever-expanding Kampereiland. From 1500
the islands were leased. The rental income became so great that the
city did not have to levy taxes.
Kampen only regained its
name in the 19th century. At that time, Kampen was difficult to
reach from the sea, because the surrounding wetlands were silted and
therefore shallow. During the previous centuries, the watercourse of
the IJssel was dredged several times, but the costs were relatively
high and within a few years the river flow had silted up again. The
IJssel had several exits here, as a delta. The main shipping route
was also diverted several times in response to the natural course.
In the 19th century, active intervention began: river courses were
dammed to allow more water to pass through one or two main shipping
routes at higher speed. This had the advantage that less sand and
silt was deposited, so that such a river course "washed clean"
itself. The key figure in this story is Nicolaas Plomp, city
architect of Kampen. In addition to his work for the current IJssel
front of the city of Kampen, he was also involved in hydraulic
engineering. Before 1839, he had already built 2500-meter dams in
the Keteldiep, to provide the water with a targeted exit.
In
1839 another 900 meters was added. Material from Kampen's city wall
has been incorporated into these breakwaters. Due to the emerging
industry in the 19th century and the importance of country roads and
railways, speed was also made with so-called roadways, cobbled
roads, instead of sand and mud roads. For example, in 1828 the
Kampen road was improved, in 1837 the Zwolseweg was constructed as a
road, in 1840 the road from Kampen to Genemuiden was constructed,
and in 1851 the Kamperstraatweg to Wezep, where it connected to the
Zuiderzeestraatweg. Steamboat services were also opened: in 1844 a
service to Hamburg and in 1847 to Hull.
Tobacco
From about
1815, the tobacco industry determined Kampen's face. This branch of
industry was attracted by the favorable tax climate in the city,
among other things. After the arrival of two smaller tobacco
factories, the large cigar manufacturer Lehmkuhl from Bremen settled
in the city. Around 1880, almost half of the Kamper population was
employed in the tobacco industry and 1.5 million cigars were
produced per week. The cigar industry could not find a place to
build a large factory, because of the leased land, which was
intended for farmers. That is why much of the cigar-making took
place in the workers' homes. The cigar industry later disappeared
almost entirely from Kampen due to regulation (it was no longer
allowed to make cigars at home); the economic crisis in the 1930s;
the second World War; and the rise of the cigarette. Only the now
monumental cigar factory De Olifant is still fully operational. What
is special about the Elephant is that, in addition to the
traditional production of cigars, it also plays a pioneering role in
helping people on Wajong benefits find work.
Pans and other
utensils
Around 1850 the Berk company in Kampen was already
involved in the manufacture of pans and other kitchen utensils made
of metal. The company was officially founded in 1851. It only became
big after it had received an order to make cutlery for hundreds of
soldiers. Enamel pans were also made from 1884. The company was very
successful: in 1866 it still offered work to 8 people, by 1913 this
had grown to 700 people. The company built houses for the poorly
housed workers. In 1931 it started with the manufacture of aluminum
pans. The crisis in the 1930s caused the workforce to drop, but by
1939 this was already 600 people. For the centenary of Berk Kampen
in 1951, it received the designation "Royal". In 1963 they switched
to stainless steel pans. At the end of the eighties, the company,
which had merged with Beccon Doetinchem, was taken over by
Koninklijke van Kempen en Begeer. The premium brand Berk Kampen has
since left Kampen, but has had a major influence on her, including
in the spatial planning of the city. The former factory is being
demolished and the land is now "a high-quality residential area".
The watchman's house and the former director's house are the only
ones left. The outer walls of the former director's house have been
completely restored, with a glass construction slid inside. The
building now serves as an office building. There was also a
building, located on the Oudestraat corner of Karpersteeg that had
the name "Groningertoren". A photo of this building with the name
still on it can be seen in the city museum. The building dates from
around 1600, and was built on the city wall that is still visible in
some places in Kampen.
Gazeuse, soft drinks and alcoholic
drinks
The Siebrand company was founded in 1920, following the
wrecked ship West Aleta with Portuguese wine. The manager of the
company, Jan-Willem Siebrand, had managed to get hold of a barrel of
wine for 200 guilders. He poured these into bottles and lost them
the same day. He then founded a company dedicated to the production
of aerated and alcoholic beverages. Until 1965 this company was
located on the Groenestraat in Kampen. Then it moved to the other
side of the IJssel, to IJsselmuiden. It is now one of the largest
wine manufacturers in the Netherlands with 60 employees.
Kampen originally had city walls around the entire city. In the 14th century, the city wall on the landward side was moved from the Burgel to where the Ebbingestraten now run. It was also moved from where the Botervatsteeg runs today to the Hagenkade, in order to enclose the outer wall neighborhood "de Hagen". On the IJssel side, only the part along the Oudestraat, traditionally the street that ran along the IJssel, was moved to the Voorstraat, where part of the wall is still visible today. The Fortress Act of 1874 gave cities permission to demolish their fortresses in order to create more residential area, but Kampen was already forced to demolish its defenses in French times. Taxes were not or hardly levied - previously this was not necessary because of the income from the leases - and the maintenance of the defense could not be paid. In 1809 Louis Napoleon was therefore requested to be allowed to demolish the wall (on the IJssel side). This gave permission, as long as it could still serve as a flood defense. Parts of the wall on the IJssel side have not been demolished either, because housing and warehouses had been built next to it.
In 1812, the wall on the landward side was also allowed to be
demolished. Demolition began then, but was not completed until the
mid-1930s. Part of the rubble was used for breakwaters in the
Keteldiep. Many of the large gates and all the small gates have also
been killed. The Zwanenpoort was already demolished in 1803, in 1837
the Vispoort, which gave access to the bridge, in 1843 the Venepoort
(on the south side) and in 1893 the Hagenpoort (officially to enable
urban expansion, unofficially because the gutters had to be
replaced, but this was not possible). After that, Kampen remained an
important garrison town, due to the strategic location of Kampen at
that time: on the IJssel, on the Zuiderzee and near a bridge of the
IJssel, which was opened by an outside guard from 1600 to the middle
of the 19th century. side of the IJssel was guarded. After all, a
permanent bridge had existed on the site of the current City Bridge
since 1448.
Until the seventies of the 20th century, Kampen
had three barracks: one was the Van Heutsz barracks on the van
Heutszplein on the Oudestraat. It housed an Art Academy until the
beginning of the 21st century, before it moved to Zwolle under the
name ArtEZ. Today the City Barracks houses the Kampen Library,
Kampen City Archives and Radio IJsselmond located there. Another was
the Koornmarkt Kazerne, where the KNIL housed, among other things,
an officer training course. The Theological University of Kampen is
currently located there. There was also a barracks on the Vloeddijk
where an officer training could be followed, this building is now
used by Quintus, center for art education. Since soldiers also grow
old, there was also a home for soldiers on the Nieuwe Markt (this
was a garden of the monks of the nearby Broederkerk in the Middle
Ages).
Kampen is a historic Hanseatic city and municipality in the
northwestern part of the Dutch province of Overijssel, located at the
mouth of the IJssel River where it forms a small delta before emptying
into the IJsselmeer (formerly the Zuiderzee). Its coordinates are
approximately 52°33′N 5°55′E (more precisely around 52.55°N 5.92°E),
placing it roughly 90 km northeast of Amsterdam and at the crossroads of
the provinces of Gelderland, Flevoland, Drenthe, and Friesland. The
municipality covers 161.79 km² (about 62.5 sq mi), with 142.18 km² of
land and 19.61 km² of water. The city proper has around 37,000
inhabitants, while the full municipality (including IJsselmuiden across
the river and smaller villages like Grafhorst, 's-Heerenbroek,
Kamperveen, Wilsum, and Zalk) totals about 54,000. Since late 2018,
parts of the town sit on a man-made river island created by the new
Reevediep anabranch.
Topography and Landscape
Kampen sits in
one of the flattest regions of the Netherlands, typical of the low-lying
Rhine delta. The average elevation is about 1 m (3.3 ft) above sea
level, with the broader municipal terrain ranging from -5 m to 12 m. The
immediate area around the city is essentially flat, with minimal
elevation change (under 20 m within several miles). This low-lying
deltaic landscape features extensive polders (reclaimed land), wetlands,
and a network of waterways. The soil is primarily fertile clay deposited
by river sedimentation over centuries, making the surrounding
agricultural zones highly productive.
The region is part of the
IJsseldelta, designated as a national landscape (Nationaal Landschap
IJsseldelta) known for its unique mix of river branches, polders, and
marshes. Kampereiland—a roughly 33 km² agricultural "island" in the
IJssel delta between multiple river channels—is one of the oldest and
greenest polders in the Netherlands. It consists of dairy farms often
built on artificial terps (mounds) to protect against historical
flooding. The broader surroundings include the Mastenbroek polder
(historically exchanged for delta rights in the 14th century) and adjoin
the massive Oost-Flevoland and Noordoostpolder reclamations in
neighboring Flevoland province.
Hydrography: Rivers, Delta, and
Water Bodies
Kampen’s geography is defined by water. The IJssel River
(a major distributary of the Rhine) flows northward from Arnhem and
reaches its mouth here, splitting into a small delta with primary and
secondary channels:
Primary modern channel: Regtediep (current
IJssel).
Others include Keteldiep, Ganzendiep, Goot, Kattendiep, and
Noorderdiep/Noorddiep.
These branches historically shifted due to
silting and flooding, which once threatened navigation and trade. Three
bridges cross the IJssel, linking Kampen to IJsselmuiden (the
second-largest settlement in the municipality) and Kampereiland. The
river ultimately feeds into the Ketelmeer (an arm of the IJsselmeer
system), a large freshwater lake created by the 1932 Afsluitdijk closure
of the former Zuiderzee.
To the west lies the Drontermeer, with
surrounding marshes (marches/wetlands). The waterfront along the IJssel
(IJsselkade) historically served as a sheltered harbor for trade. Modern
water management includes the Reevediep bypass (part of the "Room for
the River" program), which widens into wetlands and merges with the
Drontermeer, enhancing flood storage and creating dynamic nature areas
south of the city.
Climate
Kampen has a temperate oceanic
climate (Köppen Cfb), influenced by the nearby North Sea and IJsselmeer.
Summers are comfortable (highs typically 20–22°C / 68–72°F in July),
partly cloudy, with moderate rainfall. Winters are cold (highs around
4–7°C / 39–45°F in January, lows near or below freezing), windy, and
mostly cloudy. Annual precipitation averages around 850 mm (33 inches),
distributed fairly evenly but with slightly wetter summers and autumns.
Winds are frequent (especially from the west), and sunshine is moderate
(about 1,600–1,800 hours per year). The flat, open delta landscape
amplifies wind exposure, while the water bodies moderate temperatures
slightly. Flood risk from river surges or sea-level rise is managed
through dikes and river-widening projects.
Land Use and Human
Geography
Land use divides sharply between urban and rural:
The
historic city center is compact and well-preserved, with medieval walls,
three surviving gates (Koornmarktpoort, Cellebroederspoort,
Broederpoort), churches, and the IJssel waterfront—forming a classic
Dutch Hanseatic layout.
Surrounding areas are predominantly
agricultural polders used for dairy farming and some arable crops,
thanks to the nutrient-rich clay soils.
Water surfaces (rivers,
canals, lakes) make up about 12% of the municipality.
Nature areas
include expanding wetlands from river projects.
The city has
grown outward from its medieval core while incorporating nearby
villages. Industrial and service functions cluster near the river and
transport links (highways, railways). The flat terrain facilitates
extensive cycling paths and makes the area vulnerable to flooding,
addressed by centuries of Dutch hydraulic engineering (dredging,
damming, polder creation, and modern "Room for the River" initiatives).
Historical Geographical Evolution
Kampen’s prosperity stemmed
from its strategic river-lake position on the Zuiderzee–Rhine trade
route. Medieval silting of the IJssel delta repeatedly threatened
harbors, prompting 19th-century dredging and channel straightening. The
1932 Afsluitdijk transformed the brackish Zuiderzee into the freshwater
IJsselmeer, enabling massive polder reclamations that reshaped the
regional landscape. These changes shifted Kampen from a major seaport to
a river port and service center while preserving its delta character.