Nijmegen, located on the banks of the Waal River (a major branch of the Rhine) near the German border in the province of Gelderland, is the oldest city in the Netherlands. Its history stretches back over 2,000 years to its founding as the Roman settlement of Ulpia Noviomagus Batavorum (around 98–104 AD under Emperor Trajan), originally a strategic military camp and trading post that grew into a full Roman city. This long timeline—from Roman fortress to Carolingian imperial residence, Hanseatic League member, and a key site in World War II—has left a rich layer of landmarks blending ancient ruins, medieval architecture, Renaissance gems, and modern commemorations. Much of the city center was rebuilt after heavy WWII bombing (including during Operation Market Garden in 1944), but preserved and excavated sites highlight its layered past.
Valkhof Park and Hill (Valkhofpark) – The Heart of Roman and Imperial
History
Perched on a strategic hill overlooking the Waal River,
Valkhof Park is Nijmegen’s premier historical site and a serene green
space with panoramic views. It encapsulates the city’s Roman,
Carolingian, and medieval imperial past. The Romans built an early
military stronghold and Oppidum Batavorum (a Batavian administrative
center) here. In the 8th century, Charlemagne established a palatium
(palace) on the site, making Nijmegen an occasional imperial residence.
Emperor Frederick Barbarossa (Frederick I) rebuilt and expanded a grand
castle in the 12th century, including a massive tower—remnants of which
survive as the Barbarossa ruins (national monuments). The castle was
later used for royal banquets but was largely demolished in 1798 during
the French Revolutionary period for building materials.
The standout
structure is the Sint-Nicolaaskapel (Valkhof Chapel or Carolingian
Chapel), a rare surviving 8th–9th/early 11th-century octagonal brick
chapel (consecrated around 1030 in some accounts) with Romanesque
elements. It’s one of the oldest stone buildings in the Netherlands and
a powerful testament to Nijmegen’s early Christian and imperial history.
Nearby are traces of the imperial castle and a WWII Valkhof bunker—the
last remaining from a 1943 German defensive network built to protect the
Waal Bridge from Allied forces. The park itself was landscaped in the
Romantic style in the 19th century.
Adjacent is the Valkhof Museum
(Museum Het Valkhof), which houses an outstanding collection of Roman
antiquities (including artifacts from the Smetius Collection), local
history displays, and rotating art exhibitions. It’s the best place to
contextualize the site’s 2,000+ years of occupation.
Stevenskerk
(Grote of Sint-Stevenskerk / St. Stephen’s Church)
Dominating the
skyline on the Hundisburg hill, this Gothic church is Nijmegen’s most
iconic religious landmark. Its origins trace to the 7th century, but the
current structure was largely built in the 13th century (consecrated in
1273) in a mix of Romanesque and later Gothic styles. It features a
towering spire, intricate stained-glass windows, and the historic König
organ. The church suffered severe damage in WWII but was meticulously
restored, preserving its role as a symbol of resilience. Inside,
highlights include the 1512 tomb of Catherine of Bourbon and its status
as one of the city’s oldest and largest churches. It stands as a focal
point of the historic center, visible from many vantage points.
Grote Markt and the Waag (Weigh House)
The Grote Markt is the vibrant
heart of Nijmegen’s old town—a lively square ringed by cafés, bars, and
historic buildings that serves as a social and commercial hub. The
standout landmark here is the Waag (Weigh House), a graceful Dutch
Renaissance building constructed in 1612–1613 with stepped gables, red
brick, and sandstone accents. It originally functioned as a public
weighing station for goods (crucial for trade in a Hanseatic city) and
miraculously survived the 1944 bombing that destroyed much of the
surrounding area. Nearby stands the Renaissance-influenced Stadhuis
(Town Hall), with parts dating to the 16th century. The square buzzes
with life year-round and includes modern touches like a sculpture
inspired by the ancient Nijmegen Helmet.
Kronenburgerpark and
Medieval Defenses
This picturesque city park preserves remnants of
Nijmegen’s medieval fortifications. It features sections of the old city
walls, the Kronenburger Toren (Powder Tower or Gunpowder Tower)—a
striking round brick tower from the 15th century used for storing
munitions—and lush green spaces ideal for walks. The park blends history
with recreation, offering views of the city and a peaceful contrast to
the bustling center.
Roman Remains and Hidden Archaeological
Sites
Visible Roman traces are subtle but evocative:
Roman city
wall fragment near the Holland Casino (Waalkade area), unearthed in the
1980s from the 2nd-century fortifications around the trading post.
Foundations of the Roman amphitheatre, outlined in the paving of
Rembrandtstraat.
Other scattered sites include the “Lost Tower”
foundations (a 1400–1425 medieval defensive tower) visible in the
bicycle cellar under Plein 1944, and the Lead Lady artwork marking a
rare late-Roman lead coffin burial (now displayed in the Valkhof
Museum).
These underscore Nijmegen’s status as the first Roman
city in the region and part of the UNESCO-listed Lower Germanic Limes
(Roman frontier).
Other Notable Landmarks
Lange Hezelstraat:
The oldest shopping street in the Netherlands, lined with historic
buildings, boutiques, and cafés—perfect for experiencing the city’s
lived-in medieval vibe.
Latin School (1544): The oldest surviving
school building in Nijmegen (opposite Stevenskerk), built by the same
architect as the town hall’s historic wing. It served educational and
guild-party purposes before becoming a grammar school; now an office but
a fine Renaissance example.
Besiendershuis (c. 1525): One of the
oldest houses, once home to a Waal River toll supervisor; now a creative
hub for artists and thinkers.
De Bastei: A modern museum exploring
the city’s centuries-long relationship with the Waal River, with
interactive exhibits on floods, trade, and defense.
Bridges: The
iconic Waalbrug (1936 steel arch bridge, once Europe’s longest) played a
pivotal role in WWII. The newer De Oversteek (2013) doubles as a war
memorial, illuminated nightly in a “Sunset March” to honor fallen
soldiers.
Mariënburg Chapel and surrounding areas offer additional
medieval charm.
Best Time to Visit
Spring (April–June) and early fall (September)
offer mild weather (around 15–20°C/59–68°F), blooming landscapes, and
fewer crowds. Blossom in the Betuwe fruit region nearby is stunning in
spring.
Summer (July–August) brings the biggest events, like the Four
Days Marches (Vierdaagse) in mid-July—a massive walking event with huge
parties (Vierdaagsefeesten). Expect 20–23°C days, but prepare for rain.
Winter is quieter and colder (around 0–5°C), ideal for cozy indoor spots
like museums and Christmas markets, though days are short.
Weather is
typically changeable year-round—pack layers and a rain jacket.
Getting There and Around
By train: Excellent connections. From
Amsterdam Centraal: ~1 hour 20 minutes, frequent service. From Utrecht:
~55 minutes. Nijmegen station is central.
By car: Easy from Germany
(near the border), but parking in the center can be tricky—use
park-and-ride or garages.
Getting around: The city center is
pedestrian-friendly. Rent a bike or e-bike (Nijmegen is a biking capital
with great paths)—many rental spots near the station. Buses are
efficient; use the 9292OV app. Taxis or rideshares for evenings. Walking
is best for the compact historic core.
Top Things to Do and See
Nijmegen excels at mixing history, nature, and modern vibes. You can
easily cover the highlights in 1–2 days, with extras for longer stays.
Historic Center & Grote Markt: Start here—the lively main square with
the 17th-century Boterwaag weighing house, cafés, and architecture.
Nearby: St. Stevenskerk (climb the tower for views), the medieval gate,
and charming streets.
Valkhof Park: Hilltop park with panoramic Waal
River views, the Sint-Nicolaaskapel (Romanesque), and Barbarossa ruins
(12th-century palace remains). Visit the Valkhof Museum for Roman
artifacts and archaeology.
Waalkade Promenade & Beaches: Stroll the
renovated riverside quay with terraces, then cross to Veur-Lent island
for city beaches, sand, Konik horses, and the giant "Face of Nijmegen"
Roman mask sculpture. Great for photos, picnics, or swimming in summer.
Unique Experiences:
muZIEum: Blindfolded sensory tour simulating
visual impairment—eye-opening and guided by blind/partially sighted
staff. Highly recommended.
Kaaij area: Vibrant cultural terrace under
the bridge with food trucks, live music, and beachy vibes.
Kronenburgerpark: Relaxing green space with medieval towers and walls
near the station.
Nature & Outdoors: Hike the N70 trail ("eight
mountains"), explore Ooijpolder floodplains (Konik horses, birds,
beavers), or cycle the Betuwe for fruit orchards and wine villages like
Groesbeek. River cruises or kayaking are popular.
Museums & Culture:
Museum Maelwael Van Lymborch Huis (art), Freedom Museum in nearby
Groesbeek (WWII focus), plus theaters like Doornroosje for music.
Shopping: Lange Hezelstraat (one of the Netherlands' oldest shopping
streets—boutiques, vintage). Marikenstraat for modern malls.
Food
& Drink
Nijmegen has a strong student-driven scene: trendy cafés,
international options, and Dutch classics.
Must-tries: Local beers at
De Hemel brewery, pancakes on a river cruise, fresh produce from
markets.
Recommendations: Fika (Scandi-style breakfast), De Nieuwe
Winkel (creative), or spots in Honigfabriek (creative hub with
bars/restaurants). Many vegetarian/vegan options and international
cuisines (Asian, Mexican).
Terraces on Grote Markt or Waalkade are
perfect for people-watching.
Accommodation Tips
Center: Hotel
Credible, Hotel Manna (boutique), or De Prince for location.
Unique:
B&B on ship Opoe Sientje at the Kaaij.
Range: Budget hostels to
luxury. Book early for summer events. Use official sites for options.
Practical Tips
Language: English is widely spoken.
Costs:
Affordable compared to western Dutch cities. Use OV-chipkaart or apps
for public transport.
Sustainability: Bike everywhere; the area
emphasizes green tourism.
Day trips: Arnhem (nearby, "A Bridge Too
Far" history), Groesbeek (wine/museums), or Germany.
Crowds/Safety:
Very safe. Four Days Marches bring huge crowds—book ahead if visiting
then.
Apps: 9292OV (transport), Visit Nijmegen site for events.
The Latin term Noviomagus can be traced back to the Celtic words magos ('plain' or 'market') and novio ('new'). The Romans then Latinized this to Noviomagus. She used this as a toponym to indicate different cities. Nijmegen was called Ulpia Noviomagus Batavorum. In Charlemagne's time the city was called Numaga, which over time changed into Nieumeghen ('Nieuw-megen') or Nymegen.
Nijmegen is possibly the oldest city in
the current Netherlands and celebrated its 2000th anniversary in
2005. During the Roman Empire, Nijmegen was part of the Limes, the
border between the Roman Empire and the various so-called Germanic
areas. The 10th legion of the Romans was stationed in Nijmegen from
71 to 104. During the Roman regime a large fort (castra) was built
on a hill on the Waal, a few parts remain. Excavations are also
regularly carried out where Roman items are found. Along the Waal,
where the Waterkwartier is now located, a new settlement arose that
of the Roman emperor Trajanus (originally from Italy, Spain) between
98 AD. and 102 AD. was granted city rights under the name Ulpia
Noviomagus Batavorum.
The city was formed as a trading post
next to the Roman castra. This offered an advantage because it
allowed the market to be protected by the legionaries and moreover
because the legionaries also needed many goods, for which they could
also pay a good price, because they received a reasonable salary.
The name Nijmegen is therefore derived from the Latin name
"Novio-magus", which means 'new market'. However, the Romans left
the fortress in the 3rd century.
Incidentally, there are
still clear traces of this rich history of Nijmegen. For example,
the large roundabout south of the Waal bridge has been called the
"Keizer Traianusplein" since 1956. There are still some ruins
between that square and the Waal and also on the hill near the Waal
there is still a defense tower Belvedère, even though it is of
course a lot younger than the aforementioned Roman castra.
At the beginning of
the fifth century the Romans disappeared from Nijmegen. Although
written and archaeological evidence is lacking, it is believed that
the fortress, settlement and surrounding area came into Frankish
hands. Because Charlemagne is said to have built a palace near
Nijmegen, the city is sometimes referred to as the Imperial City. He
is said to have had a palatinate (palace) built on the Valkhof
around 770 and celebrated Easter here several times, including in
777 but also in 804 and 808. The Frankish historian Einhard says
that Charlemagne built a palatium in Noviomagum. the Vahalem, a
river that flows south of the island of the Batavians. The fact that
this is Nijmegen is often defended and is also very plausible.
Charles's son, Louis the Pious, is also said to have often stayed in
Nijmegen. However, the Normans took the Palatinate around 880. This
led to its destruction upon their departure. The city is now known
under the name Numaga. At the bottom of the hill on the Waal was a
trading settlement.
The Palatinate played an important role
during Ottonian and Salic times. Emperor Otto III was born in the
Ketelwoud on his way from Aachen to the Palatinate in Nijmegen. In
991 Empress Theophanu, originally a Byzantine princess, died in the
Palatinate. Around 1030, possibly as early as 996, the
Sint-Nicolaaskapel was built in the palace, one of the few preserved
Romanesque buildings in the Netherlands. The chapel was built after
the example of the Carolingian Palatine Church in Aachen. In 1047
the palace was burnt to the ground by Godfrey II of Upper Lorraine
during a revolt against Emperor Henry III. Thereafter, the imperial
visits to Nijmegen came to a temporary end.
In the Middle
Ages, the city became a significant center. In 1155 Frederik
Barbarossa had his castle Valkhof completed. History is recorded in
the facing brick that he had applied. In 1230 the city formally
acquired its city charter. In 1247 the city came into the hands of
the counts of Gelre. Initially it was pledged by Roman King William
of Holland to Count Otto II in Gelderland, but because Willem II
could not pay off his debts due to financial problems, the city of
Gelderland remained in possession and soon became the most important
of the four Gelderland capitals. In addition, it became a Hanseatic
city. In 1543, however, Nijmegen, like the rest of Gelre, came under
Habsburg rule.
The Reformation was positively received in Nijmegen. Protestants
and Roman Catholics had equal rights in 1566, but in 1579 the roles
were reversed and it was the Catholics who were oppressed. It is not
unlikely that this was partly the reason for "his most Catholic king
of Spain" to start a campaign against the rebellious northern
provinces (i.e. the Netherlands).
Nijmegen was besieged a
number of times during the Eighty Years' War. On March 16, 1585,
Nijmegen sent an envoy to Alexander Farnese, the Duke of Parma, to
come to an agreement whereby the Reformed and Protestants lost their
newly acquired rights. During the second Siege of Nijmegen in 1591,
Nijmegen was recaptured by Prince Maurits.
Nijmegen was later
occupied by the French from 1672 to 1674, but peace was restored in
1678 by the peace of Nijmegen, which concluded the peace between the
Republic of the Netherlands and France.
Nijmegen already had
a port in the 14th century. This was moved and expanded in
1601-1604. The current Waalhaven was constructed around 1852, after
which the old port was filled in.
In 1923, as part of the
Catholic emancipation movement, Nijmegen was given a university with
a Roman Catholic signature, the current Radboud University.
The last time Nijmegen was in the firing line of a war was in World
War II. In May 1940 it was the first Dutch city to fall into German
hands. The city suffered extensive damage during the war. On
February 22, 1944, hundreds were killed in an Allied (American)
bombing raid on the city center, in which the city center and the
station were particularly hit. In September 1944, during Operation
Market Garden, heavy fighting took place in and around the city to
get and keep the Waal Bridge undamaged, which the British and
Americans eventually succeeded (see also De Over crossing).
The "Plein 1944", which was created as a result of the American
bombardment, remained largely undeveloped after the war. Since 2013
there have been apartment complexes and a parking garage under the
square. During construction, the remains of an old city wall that
can be viewed in the bicycle cellar underneath the square.
From 1890 to 1940, Nijmegen was, after The Hague,
the most important 'Indian' city. The European branch of the Royal
Netherlands Indies Army (KNIL), the Colonial Reserve, had been based
in Nijmegen since 1890. From 1911 they moved into the Prins
Hendrikkazerne. The Colonial Reserve formed the basis of the
Nijmegen Four Days Marches. The first edition, which was organized
in 1909 by the Dutch Association for Physical Education (NBvLO), had
a different set-up than today. Three years later, the Four Days
Marches departed from Utrecht. On the third day, the participants
then walked from Ede via the Betuwe to Nijmegen to spend the night
there in the Prins Hendrikkazerne, home of the Colonial Reserve. On
the last day there was a walk through the surroundings of Nijmegen
and the barracks were once again the end point. A Flag Parade was
held for the first time in 1928 as the official opening of the Four
Days Marches. This tradition, too, was introduced by the Colonial
Reserve. The parade was held in the courtyard of the Prins
Hendrikkazerne and later to the parade ground. Military home
Insulinde, for returning KNIL soldiers, was founded in 1918 in Hees.
In 1951 the Colonial Reserve was disbanded.
The city with its
beautiful canals and houses attracted people from the Indies as
planters, government officials and industrialists. They had capital
villas built, especially in the Hunnerberg district, in the villages
of Hees and Hatert and along the highways. A good example is the
Villa Padang on the Groesbeekseweg 181, and Villa Salatiga. Country
houses were also built in Beek and Ubbergen. Around 1900 a
residential area was named after General Joannes Benedictus van
Heutsz, who was the first to visit Nijmegen after the pacification
of Aceh.
Nijmegen has two neighborhoods where the street
names refer to the Indonesian past. The Java neighborhood, from the
twenties of the twentieth century, is located on the north side of
the Galgenveld district. This neighborhood is a protected cityscape.
Between 2015 and 2018, a new district, Batavia, was built near the
Waal, where the streets are named after Indian people from Nijmegen.
Due to neglect and poverty, the Lower City (the part of the
center that is located in the low part, on the Waal) fell into
disrepair after the construction of the Waal Bridge. Although the
Lower Town was more or less spared the acts of war, the condition of
this district was such that, due to the many buildings already
demolished and poor living conditions (dilapidated buildings
declared uninhabitable, houses without sanitary facilities, etc.),
it was decided in 1972 after years of discussions and planning. was
turned into large-scale demolition and rebuilding. In 1975 the Lower
Town was declared a "protected cityscape", but by then most of the
medieval buildings had already been demolished. Only (parts of) a
few streets have remained original and been restored.
In the
sixties and seventies Nijmegen acquired the image of a red city. In
those years there were many Marxists who stood out because of the
relatively large population of students. A violent confrontation
between the leftist squatters and the Nijmegen administration took
place in February 1981, the Pierson riots.
Since the Second
World War, the city has expanded considerably in a westerly and
especially southwestern direction. The villages of Hatert, Hees and
Neerbosch and the hamlet of Brakkenstein were swallowed up by
districts of the same name. The most important expansion was the
construction of 10,000 homes in Dukenburg (from 1966) and 6,000 in
Lindenholt (from 1977), west of the Maas-Waal canal. Initially, the
municipality did not want to build on the west side of the Maas-Waal
Canal, but in the Ooijpolder. In 1951 there were already plans for
the construction of 17,000 homes in this area east of the center.
After much protest against the development of the landscape valuable
polder, plans for the development of the Ooijpolder were
definitively scrapped in 1970.
The structure of the city thus
became very unbalanced: the center was in the northeast and the
urban expansions took place up to 7 kilometers from there in a south
and west direction. For a long time, the Waal was an impregnable
barrier that determined the northern boundary of the buildings. From
the end of the 1990s, the city has expanded significantly north of
the Waal, at the Vinex location Waal spring. Eventually some 15,000
homes will be built here.
In the period 2010-2025, a new
district, the Waalfront, will be built on the site of the old port
and industrial area that borders the Waterkwartier and the Waal.
Nijmegen is a city in the eastern Netherlands, in the province of
Gelderland, situated directly on the south bank of the Waal River (the
main distributary of the Rhine in the Netherlands). It lies
approximately 20 km from the German border and forms part of the
Arnhem-Nijmegen metropolitan area (also called the Green Metropolitan
Region), with a population of around 187,000 in the municipality (as of
recent data). Its coordinates are roughly 51°50′51″N 5°51′45″E.
Nijmegen is one of the Netherlands’ oldest cities, with its location
chosen strategically by the Romans around the 1st century BCE for its
elevated hills overlooking the river valley. Unlike the famously flat,
polder-dominated western Netherlands (much of which lies below sea
level), Nijmegen sits in a transitional zone of the eastern Netherlands
where the landscape begins to rise due to ancient glacial activity. This
makes its geography distinctive within the country.
Topography
and Landforms
The municipality spans 57.63 km² (about 22.25 sq mi),
with land covering 53.09 km² and water 4.54 km². Elevations range from a
low of about 7 m (23 ft) near the river to a high of 88–95 m (289–312
ft), with an average around 19–29 m. This is unusually hilly for the
Netherlands.
These heights stem from Saalian-era (about
238,000–128,000 years ago) ice-pushed ridges—glacial moraines and
deposits that form the backbone of the local terrain. Key hills include
the Hunnerberg, Kops Plateau, and areas around the historic Valkhof
citadel. These ridges provided natural defensive overlooks of the Waal
and Rhine valleys, which is why the Romans built a military camp here
(Oppidum Batavorum/Noviomagus).
South and southeast of the city, the
landscape transitions into the “Rijk van Nijmegen” (“Kingdom of
Nijmegen”)—a varied region of forested hills, heathlands, fens, and
small vineyards around Groesbeek and Berg en Dal. These are among the
northernmost commercial vineyards in the world. North of the Waal, the
terrain flattens into the fertile Betuwe (“Good Land”) riverine area,
known for orchards (cherries, apples) and floodplains.
Hydrology:
The Waal River and Water Management
The Waal River dominates
Nijmegen’s geography. It is a wide, lowland river (typically 350–400 m
across) that forms a sharp bend and narrows just east of the city,
creating a natural bottleneck. This has historically made the area prone
to flooding, especially during high water from upstream Rhine rainfall
or snowmelt (notable events in 1993 and 1995 threatened the historic
center on the south bank).
To mitigate this, the Netherlands
implemented one of the flagship projects of the national “Room for the
River” program (completed around 2015–2016). The south-bank dike was
relocated, a large ancillary channel excavated in the floodplains, and
an artificial island (Veur-Lent) created north of the river with new
dikes, bridges, beaches, and a river park. This not only provides flood
safety but integrates recreation, nature, and urban expansion. The
Maas-Waal Canal (dug in 1927) connects the Waal to the Meuse River west
of the city, aiding freight navigation.
The Waal remains a vital
inland shipping route for barges linking German industrial areas to
Dutch ports (Rotterdam, Amsterdam). Floodplains like the Ooijpolder
nearby serve as nature reserves that absorb excess water.
Climate
Nijmegen has an oceanic climate (Köppen: Cfb), typical of the
Netherlands but with semi-continental influences due to its
inland-eastern position and lack of north-south mountain barriers in
Europe. It is often one of the warmest cities in the country,
particularly in summer—the “Roermond–Nijmegen–Eindhoven triangle”
frequently records the national highs. Average temperatures (1971–2000
normals): daily mean 9.8 °C, with summer maxima often exceeding those
elsewhere. Record high: 36.7 °C; record low: –20.1 °C. Annual
precipitation is about 744 mm over ~227 days, with high humidity (82%
average).
Surrounding Natural Areas and Broader Context
Nijmegen sits within the Rhine–Meuse–Scheldt delta system but in the
higher, sandier eastern zone of Gelderland. Nearby are extensive forests
and nature areas in the Veluwe (to the north, though more associated
with Arnhem) and the hilly, wooded stretches south of the city. The
Ooijpolder floodplains and Millingerwaard nature reserve exemplify the
“Room for the River” philosophy of working with, rather than against,
natural water dynamics.
The city’s urban layout hugs the south bank,
with the historic center (including the market square, Grote Kerk, and
Valkhof park) perched on the hill. Post-1874 (when fortifications were
dismantled), the city expanded steadily. Northern districts (Lent,
Oosterhout, Ressen) were added across the Waal via bridges,
incorporating former villages like Hees, Hatert, and Neerbosch. Green
spaces such as Kronenburgerpark and direct river access (beaches and
terraces) make the urban geography unusually integrated with its natural
setting.