Location: Balestrino, Province of Savona, Liguria Map
Balestrino is a small municipality in the Province of Savona, located
in the Liguria region of northwestern Italy, approximately 70 kilometers
southwest of Genoa and 30 kilometers southwest of Savona. It borders
neighboring communes such as Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena, Ceriale,
Cisano sul Neva, Toirano, and Zuccarello. The area encompasses about
11.3 square kilometers and includes several hamlets (frazioni) like
Bergalla, Borgo, Cuneo, and Poggio. As of 2011, the population was
around 607 inhabitants, with a density of roughly 54 people per square
kilometer. The town's name derives from Ligurian roots, appearing as
"Barestin" or "Balestrin" in local dialects, and its residents are known
as Balestrinesi.
What makes Balestrino particularly fascinating is
its dual nature: it consists of an ancient, hilltop historic center—now
largely abandoned and earning it the moniker of a "ghost town"—and a
modern settlement built at the base of the hill in the mid-20th century.
The old town, perched on a rocky outcrop, was evacuated in 1953 due to
severe hydrogeological instability, including landslides and seismic
risks, leaving behind a haunting landscape of crumbling buildings,
churches, and castles that attract urban explorers, historians, and
tourists today.
Former church of
Sant'Andrea in the hamlet of Borgo. The cult building was built on
the remains of a pre-existing chapel between 1594 and 1624 also
thanks to the funding given by the Balestrine family of Di Negri,
who emigrated to Spain.
Oratory of the Madonna di Marzo in the
hamlet of Borgo. Dating back to 1483, it was the seat of the
Confraternity of San Carlo.
Parish church of Sant'Andrea in the
hamlet of Poggio. Built in a modern style, replacing the previous
parish church no longer open to the public, it features the marble
altar of 1641 - the work of the sculptor Giovanni Orsolino - and a
marble pulpit with the noble coat of arms of the Del Carretto family
dated to 1702 and transferred here from the previous place of cult
of the Borgo.
Country church of San Giorgio in the hamlet of
Poggio, inside the municipal cemetery. Of ancient origin, probably
medieval, it was rebuilt in 1340 in a simple Romanesque style.
Inside it houses some cycles of 15th century frescoes depicting
saints, scenes from the Bible and a nativity scene in the
square-plan apse with cross vaults. The adjacent bell tower dates
back to the 12th century.
Chapel of Sant'Apollonia in the hamlet
of Bergalla. The building was built on the foundations of a
pre-existing place of worship dedicated to San Calocero.
Country
chapel of St. Anthony of Padua in the Cuneo district.
Sanctuary
of Reconciliation and Peace at Monte Croce (756 m), built after the
Marian apparitions (138 ascertained) which took place between
October 4, 1949 and November 5, 1986 to Caterina Richero, a resident
of Bergalla.
Castle of the Del
Carretto family. Imposing medieval building, overlooking the
abandoned village below. The complex was built between 1515 and 1559
by the Marquis Pirro II Del Carretto and architecturally revised
between 1812 and 1820 by his descendant, Domenico Donato III Del
Carretto. The renovation work saw the elimination of the Ghibelline
battlements of the keep in favor of a new roof and a staircase to
replace the old drawbridge.
Ruins of the Bava family castle in
the hamlet of Bergalla.
Early Origins and Byzantine Roots
The history of Balestrino traces
back to at least the 11th century, though its roots may extend even
further into the Byzantine era (around the 6th to 8th centuries AD).
During this period, the site likely served as a fortified position on
the hill where the later Del Carretto castle would stand. This strategic
outpost overlooked the surrounding valleys, providing defense against
invasions common in the turbulent post-Roman world. Around this
fortification, a settlement known as the "Burgus Plebis" (people's
borough) began to form, evolving into what is now the abandoned Borgo
district.
In the early Middle Ages, additional hamlets such as
Bergalla, Cuneo, and Poggio emerged as the first organized residential
areas. These developments were driven by agricultural needs, with
inhabitants terracing the steep Ligurian hillsides for olive groves,
legumes, and cereals— a farming technique still visible in the region's
landscape today. Some historical accounts suggest that Balestrino may
have been under the influence or ownership of a Benedictine abbey during
its formative years, possibly linked to nearby monastic institutions
like the Abbey of San Martino in Finale Ligure, though concrete evidence
remains sparse and primarily anecdotal.
Feudal Period and the
Rise of Noble Families
By the feudal era, Balestrino had become a
significant fiefdom. The Bava family, nobles originating from the
Piedmont region, were the first recorded lords of the area. They
constructed the town's initial castle, establishing control over the
feud and laying the foundations for its medieval structure. This period
marked Balestrino's growth as a fortified village, with the castle
serving as both a residence and a symbol of authority.
Ownership
shifted in the mid-16th century to the powerful Del Carretto marquises,
a prominent Genoese noble family. Around 1550, they built a grand new
castle on the rock overlooking the village, replacing or expanding upon
the Bava structure. This era was marked by tension and unrest. Between
1515 and 1559, Marquis Pirro II Del Carretto imposed stringent edicts,
including heavy taxes and forced labor, which clashed with the
villagers' longstanding traditions of relative autonomy. This led to a
conspiracy among local notables, culminating in a dramatic uprising in
1561. During the revolt, Pirro II was assassinated, and his castle was
set ablaze.
Despite the upheaval, the Del Carretto family retained
control. To quell further dissent, they established a local court
complete with torture chambers, enforcing strict governance. Under their
rule, Balestrino flourished economically, becoming a key hub in the
valley. The town developed industries such as milling, furnace
operations, and soap production, supported by its strategic location and
natural resources. The best-preserved remnant from this time is the
Byzantine-style Del Carretto castle, which ironically survived better
than much of the surrounding town due to superior construction materials
reserved for the nobility.
Napoleonic Era and Integration into
Modern Italy
The late 18th and early 19th centuries brought further
turmoil with the arrival of Napoleonic forces. Balestrino's inhabitants
fiercely resisted French occupation, engaging in battles and retaliatory
actions that resulted in significant casualties but ultimately failed to
repel the invaders. The town suffered damage and loss of life during
these conflicts, which disrupted its economic stability.
Following
Napoleon's defeat, Balestrino fell under the rule of the Kingdom of
Sardinia and later Piedmont. In 1860, as part of the Risorgimento
(Italian unification movement), it was incorporated into the newly
formed Kingdom of Italy, specifically within the Liguria region. This
period saw gradual modernization, but the town's fortunes began to wane
due to natural disasters.
Earthquakes, Instability, and
Abandonment
Balestrino's decline was accelerated by a series of
geological challenges in the 19th century. The region of Liguria is
prone to seismic activity, and multiple earthquakes struck the area,
causing structural damage and prompting initial waves of emigration. A
particularly devastating event was the 1887 Liguria earthquake,
measuring 6.7 on the Richter scale, which inflicted severe harm on
Balestrino's buildings and infrastructure. This quake, centered in the
western Ligurian Alps, led to partial evacuations and highlighted the
town's vulnerability to landslides and soil erosion—issues exacerbated
by its hillside location.
Over time, hydrogeological instability
worsened, with recurring tremors, ground shifts, and erosion making the
old town increasingly unsafe. By the mid-20th century, the Italian
government deemed the historic center impracticable. In 1953, the
remaining inhabitants were forced to evacuate, relocating to a newly
constructed settlement at the foot of the hill. The abandoned area
covers about 1.5 hectares, including over 44,000 square meters of
decaying structures. Key surviving elements include the 12th-century
churches of St. George and St. Andrew, the Del Carretto castle, and the
overgrown Deautra bridge.
Balestrino is a small comune (municipality) located in the Province
of Savona within the Liguria region of northwestern Italy. It is
situated approximately 70 kilometers southwest of Genoa, the regional
capital, and about 30 kilometers southwest of Savona. The area is
characterized by its proximity to the Ligurian Sea, lying roughly 7-8
kilometers inland from the coast near towns like Loano and Borghetto
Santo Spirito. This positioning places Balestrino in a transitional zone
between the Mediterranean coastline and the inland hills of the Ligurian
Apennines, contributing to its diverse topography and historical
vulnerability to natural hazards. The municipality covers a total area
of 11.3 square kilometers and includes several hamlets (frazioni):
Bergalla, Borgo, Cuneo, and Poggio. Geographically, Balestrino is
divided into two distinct parts: the ancient, abandoned upper town
perched on a hilltop, often referred to as a ghost town, and the modern
lower settlement at the base of the hill. This duality reflects both
human adaptation and the challenges posed by the local environment.
The coordinates of Balestrino are approximately 44.117° N latitude and
8.167° E longitude, placing it in the valley of the Barescione stream.
The elevation varies significantly due to the hilly terrain; the modern
town sits at around 200-300 meters above sea level, while the old
hilltop section reaches up to about 370 meters. Bordering municipalities
include Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena to the north, Ceriale and Cisano
sul Neva to the south and east, Toirano to the west, and Zuccarello to
the northeast. This location in western Liguria, near the French border
(about 60 kilometers away), embeds Balestrino within a broader landscape
of coastal plains, river valleys, and mountainous hinterlands.
Topography and Terrain
Balestrino's terrain is predominantly hilly
and rugged, typical of the Ligurian interior where the Apennine
foothills meet the coastal zone. The old town, known as the "Burgus
Plebis Balestrino," is dramatically situated on a rocky promontory or
hilltop, offering panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and distant
sea. This elevated position was historically strategic for defense but
has proven precarious due to the unstable ground. The landscape features
steep slopes, narrow valleys, and terraced hillsides often used for
agriculture, such as olive groves and vineyards, which are common in
Liguria. The total abandoned area of the old town spans about 1.5
hectares, consisting of clustered medieval buildings, including the
12th-century churches of San Giorgio (St. George) and Sant'Andrea (St.
Andrew), and ruins of a castle. In contrast, the newer section lies in a
flatter, more stable valley floor below, facilitating modern habitation
and infrastructure.
The broader municipality encompasses a mix of
forested hills, agricultural lands, and stream-cut valleys. The
Barescione stream, a key hydrographic feature, winds through the area,
providing drainage and contributing to the fertile valley soils. This
stream originates in the nearby hills and flows toward the Ligurian Sea,
influencing local microclimates and supporting limited riparian
ecosystems.
Geology and Natural Hazards
Geologically,
Balestrino is part of the Ligurian Alps-Apennines system, characterized
by sedimentary rocks, including sandstones, marls, and conglomerates,
which are prone to erosion and instability. The region experiences
hydrogeological risks, such as landslides and soil subsidence,
exacerbated by seismic activity. This instability was the primary reason
for the abandonment of the old town in the 1950s; a series of
earthquakes and landslides in the mid-20th century, including notable
events in the 1880s and 1940s, caused structural damage and prompted the
relocation of residents to the safer lower areas. The area's geology is
influenced by its position near tectonic boundaries, making it
susceptible to tremors from the nearby Alpine fault lines. Despite these
challenges, the rocky outcrops and hills provide a picturesque, if
haunting, landscape that attracts visitors interested in abandoned
sites.
Notable geological features include the prominent rock tower
on which the original settlement was built, offering insights into
medieval adaptation to the terrain. The surrounding hills are part of a
larger karstic and erosional landscape, with nearby caves (such as those
in Toirano) adding to the regional geological interest.
Hydrography
The primary watercourse is the Barescione stream, which
forms the central valley and serves as a natural corridor connecting the
inland hills to the coast. This intermittent stream supports seasonal
flow, with higher volumes during winter rains, and contributes to
groundwater recharge in the area. There are no major rivers or lakes
within the municipality, but the proximity to the Mediterranean Sea
influences humidity and occasional coastal flooding risks in lower
elevations. The hydrography has historically shaped settlement patterns,
with villages clustered along water sources for agriculture and daily
needs.
Climate
Balestrino enjoys a Mediterranean climate
(Köppen classification Csa), featuring mild, wet winters and warm, dry
summers, moderated by its inland position and elevation. Annual
temperatures typically range from a low of about 35°F (2°C) in winter to
highs of 81°F (27°C) in summer, with extremes rarely dropping below 28°F
(-2°C) or exceeding 87°F (31°C). Summers (June to August) see average
daily highs increasing from 70°F (21°C) to 77°F (25°C), with low
humidity and clear skies predominating. Winters (December to February)
are cooler, with daytime temperatures around 50°F (10°C) and nighttime
lows near 39°F (4°C), accompanied by higher precipitation.
Rainfall
is unevenly distributed, totaling around 800-1,000 mm annually, with the
wettest months being October to December (e.g., October averages highs
of 66°F/19°C and lows of 54°F/12°C, with breezy conditions). January,
the coldest month, sees about 103 mm of rain over 5 rainy days. The
climate supports Mediterranean vegetation, including olive trees, pines,
and maquis shrubland, though occasional strong winds from the sea can
influence local weather patterns.
Flora, Fauna, and Environmental
Aspects
The geography fosters a biodiversity typical of Liguria's
coastal hinterlands. Vegetation includes evergreen oaks, chestnuts, and
aromatic herbs on the hillsides, with terraced olive and grape
cultivations dotting the landscape. Fauna may include wild boars, foxes,
and various bird species adapted to Mediterranean scrub. The area's
abandonment has allowed nature to reclaim parts of the old town, with
overgrown vegetation enhancing its ghostly atmosphere. Environmental
concerns center on ongoing landslide risks, but the region benefits from
protected natural areas nearby, such as parts of the Ligurian Alps.
Human Geography and Settlements
Balestrino's population is small
(around 500-600 residents), concentrated in the modern lower town and
scattered hamlets connected by winding roads. The old upper town,
abandoned since 1953, remains a cultural and touristic site, with its
1.5-hectare expanse of ruins drawing visitors for its historical and
geographical intrigue. The four connected villages (Bergalla, Borgo,
Cuneo, Poggio) form a network adapted to the hilly terrain, with
agriculture (olives, wine) and tourism as key economic activities.
Infrastructure includes roads linking to the A10 motorway, facilitating
access to the coast and larger cities.
Cinema
In the old village of
Balestrino some scenes of the film Inkheart - The legend of the ink
heart of 2008 by Iain Softley and starring Brendan Fraser, Andy
Serkis and Helen Mirren were shot. In June 2019 the village returns
to the scene within the Games of Kings television series.