Arona (Aruna in Lombard) is an Italian town of 13 930 inhabitants
in the province of Novara in Piedmont. Fifth city in the province by
population, today it is a tourist-tertiary center on the shores of
Lake Maggiore, whose development has been favored by its position on
the Via del Sempione and by the convenient connection with Milan
(motorway and railway).
The municipality is home to the
Lagoni di Mercurago Natural Park, one of the "prehistoric
pile-dwelling sites around the Alps", which has been listed as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011.
The most touristic part of Arona, develops along the shores of Lake
Maggiore. The Marconi lakefront offers a panoramic pedestrian route from
the railway station, along the way you come across the tourist office
and a little further on, beyond the pleasant equipped park, the landing
stage for navigation on the lake, following the lakefront you reach
Piazza del Popolo , the oldest square in the city in which the Broletto
buildings and the ancient church of Santa Maria di Loreto stand out.
Numerous restaurants overlook the arcades of the square.
Alternatively, you can enter what the locals call "il corso" or Corso
Cavour, a narrow pedestrian street on which there are shops, ice cream
parlors and other clubs. Parallel to Corso Cavour is Piazza San
Graziano, from the staircase you reach the Romanesque church of the
Santi Martiri. In Piazza San Graziano there is also the Civic
Archaeological Museum which houses interesting finds from the Golasecca
culture.
From Piazza del Popolo, the rocky outcrop on which the
remains of the Rocca di Arona are located is clearly visible, from which
you can enjoy a beautiful panorama over the lower Verbano area.
Collegiate Church of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary. The current
parish church, whose first contract for its construction dates back
to 1468, was consecrated, not yet finished, on 12 March 1488. At the
beginning of the 17th century, Cardinal Federico Borromeo ordered
massive restoration and interior decoration works. at the end of
which, on 10 March 1608, the church was erected as a collegiate
church. After the substantial repairs of 1856-1867 it was
rededicated in 1858 by the bishop G. F. Gentile. It is in the
Gothic-Byzantine style, altered by later elements. The limestone
stone façade, with a central rose window, has fifteenth-century
elements, and a notable bas-relief of the Nativity of the Redeemer,
by Luca Beltrami ascribed to the Mantegazza brothers, authors of the
lower part of the Certosa di Pavia. Inside you can admire the high
altar built in 1812 to a design by Abbot Zanoia; the Holy Family of
Gaudenzio Ferrari in six fields, with the signature Gaudentius
Vincius and the date '15', on wood and enclosed in a carved frame of
the time; the Nativity by Andrea Appiani; the Annunciation and the
Marriage of Francesco Mazzucchelli known as Morazzone, donated by
Cardinal Federico Borromeo. There are also four reliquaries that
contain the pallium, the miter, the crosier of San Carlo Borromeo
donated by Cardinal Federico. They were renewed in 1920 by the
Aronese citizenship in fulfillment of a vow made during the last flu
pandemic, which was deemed to have ceased through the saint's
intercession.
Church of the holy martyrs Graziano, Felino, Fedele
and Carpoforo (also known as San Graziano). Formerly a Benedictine
abbey, the church was annexed to the monastery of the Savior and of
the Saints Graziano and Felino, founded in the second half of the
10th century. No traces remain of the original building. Completely
rebuilt, it was returned to worship the year following that of the
consecration of the Collegiate, 1489. In the church there is an
altarpiece of the Madonna Enthroned and Saint by Ambrogio da
Fossano, known as Bergognone, hanging behind the main altar. The
painting was commissioned by the abbot of the time, Monsignor
Girolamo Calagrani, who in the painting appears kneeling in front of
the Virgin.
Church of Santa Maria di Loreto (also known as Santa
Marta) in the ancient Piazza del Popolo, where the Broletto and what
remains of the ancient port are also located.
Church of the
Visitation, annexed to the monastery of the order of the Visitation,
was founded in 1652 by the archpriest Graziano Ponzone. On the main
altar of the church there is a canvas by the painter Gaudenzio
Magistrini (1820-1871).
Beolchi Chapel
Sanctuary of the Sacro
Monte di San Carlo
Visitation Monastery
Church of San
Giuseppe, formerly dedicated to Sant'Eusebio
Parish Church of San
Giusto (in the Montrigiasco district)
Church of Santa Maria di
Loreto (also known as Santa Marta)
Church of San Giovanni
Battista (in the hamlet of Dagnente)
Church of San Giorgio (in
Mercurago)
Church of the Holy Trinity
Church of the Sacred
Heart
Church of Saints Anna and Gioacchino, in Corso Cavour
(erected in 1721, with a facade rebuilt in 1841; altarpiece by
Giuseppe De Albertis, from Arona, with Saints Anna and Joachim with
Mary as a young girl)
Broletto or Palace of Justice, built at the end of the fourteenth
century on the ancient Piazza del Popolo, where the church of Santa
Maria di Loreto also stands. Between the Gothic arches of the
portico are terracotta medallions with portraits of the nobles
ruling the city.
Villa Ponti, which hosted Napoleon Bonaparte on
his return from the Egyptian countryside and in which classical
music concerts and exhibitions of important artists are currently
organized.
Villa Leuthold, a nineteenth-century public park with
huge specimens of camellias.
Rocca Borromea, whose ruins are
located on the hill overlooking the city. It was historically
disputed between the Torriani and the Visconti as well as the
birthplace of San Carlo.
Asilo Bottelli, a nineteenth century
neoclassical style building originally used as a kindergarten.
Villa Cantoni, built in the 1880s.
The Colossus of San Carlo
Borromeo
This statue, nicknamed the Sancarlone, dominates Lake
Maggiore and can be reached by taking the provincial road 35 to the
hamlet of Ghevio di Meina, in the San Carlo area. The colossus is
about 35 meters high (23.40 m the statue and 11.70 m the base) and
was built between 1614 and 1697 with copper plates. Originally it
was expected that the statue, completed in 1698, was part of a Sacro
Monte of which only three chapels were built.
By plane
The nearest airport is Milan Malpensa (Somma Lombardo)
which is about 20 km away, Arona can be reached via a bookable bus
service
By car
By car Arona can be reached
From Milan:
along the A8 and then the A8/A26 branch (exit Castelletto Ticino) or
continuing on the A26 towards Gravellona Toce (exit Arona)
From
Turin: along the A4 in the direction of Venice and then the A26 in the
direction of Gravellona Toce (Arona exit)
From Novara: State Road 32
From Verbania: Sempione State Road 33
In the immediate vicinity of
the station there is a large number of free parking spaces, while
approaching the center and along the lakefront, parking is subject to
payment.
From 18 June and for the entire summer time period, the
Limited Traffic Zone along Corso Marconi is active, on some days and at
times a stretch of the lakefront is therefore not accessible by car.
The ZTL is in force:
Friday from 22.00 to 07.00
Saturday from
22.00 to 07.00
Sundays and holidays from 15.30 to 19.00
On the
train
The Arona railway station is served by the lines:
Milan-Domodossola
Arona-Novara
By bus
Replacement buses run
the service on the Arona-Santhià line.
Arona train, C.so Repubblica (From the station, continue 300 meters keeping the lake on your right.), info@treninodiarona.it. €5. From March to September: Sat-Sun 10.00-18.00. The Arona Express train is the only exciting little train in Arona, with a breathtaking tourist route to discover the beauties that have made the city of Arona famous all over the world. It is active from March to September, on Saturdays and Sundays, from 10.00 to 18.00. Arona train The train allows you to visit the Rocca Borromea Park or the San Carlone. With a discounted ticket you can arrange to visit both attractions.
Souvenirs La Cambusa (Bar La Cambusa), Corso Repubblica 108 (about 100 meters from the train station). They sell various souvenirs of Lake Maggiore.
Prehistoric and Ancient Roots (18th Century BC–Early Middle Ages)
Archaeological evidence shows human activity in the Arona area
dating back to the Bronze Age (roughly 18th–13th centuries BC).
Nearby Lagoni di Mercurago (part of the Lagoni di Mercurago Nature
Park) preserves prehistoric pile dwellings (palafitte), which form
part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site “Prehistoric Pile Dwellings
around the Alps” (declared in 2011). These stilt villages and
related finds, including wheels and ceramics from the Golasecca
culture (6th–5th centuries BC), indicate early lake-based
communities engaged in fishing, farming, and trade.
The area
later came under Celtic influence, followed by Roman control. During
the Roman Empire, Arona served as a vital waypoint along the Simplon
route (a key Alpine pass used by legions marching to conquer Gaul).
A Roman necropolis has been excavated, yielding urns, terracotta
vessels, and coins now displayed in Arona’s Archaeological and
Mineralogical Museum in Piazza San Graziano. The Lombards (Germanic
invaders who ruled much of Italy after the fall of the Western Roman
Empire) also left their mark, with the Rocca promontory possibly
hosting an early fortification.
Early Medieval Period and the
Rise of Fortifications (10th–13th Centuries)
The first documented
historical references to Arona appear around the late 10th century.
In 979 (or possibly as early as 963), the Benedictine Abbey of
Saints Gratianus and Felinus (also known as San Graziano or San
Salvatore) was founded by Amizzone del Seprio. This abbey played a
central role in early governance and religious life.
The Rocca di
Arona (the hilltop fortress overlooking the lake) began taking shape
around the year 1000 under Lombard influence, initially as a
defensive outpost. It became a strategic stronghold for controlling
lake traffic and trade routes between Piedmont and Lombardy. In
1162, after Emperor Frederick Barbarossa’s brutal destruction of
Milan, many Milanese refugees fled to Arona, boosting its population
and importance during the conflicts of the Lombard League.
Arona
passed through the hands of the Torriani (Della Torre) family before
falling to the powerful Visconti family of Milan in 1277 (following
the Battle of Desio). Under Visconti rule, the town was heavily
fortified, and the Rocca was expanded with walls, a harbor, and
defensive structures. By the early 14th century, Arona operated as a
free commune under the suzerainty of the abbey.
The Borromeo
Era: Power, Faith, and Legacy (15th–17th Centuries)
In 1439, Duke
Filippo Maria Visconti granted the fief of Arona—including the
municipality and castle—to Vitaliano I Borromeo, a wealthy banker
from a Tuscan family that had risen to prominence in Milan. This
marked the beginning of over four centuries of Borromeo family
dominance. Arona became their primary seat on Lake Maggiore, and
they further strengthened its defenses with additional walls and a
secret passage.
The most famous native son of Arona is Carlo
Borromeo (later Saint Charles Borromeo), born on October 2, 1538, in
the Rocca di Arona (specifically in the “Room of the Three Lakes”).
A child prodigy from the noble family, he became a cardinal at age
22 and Archbishop of Milan at 26. He emerged as a towering figure of
the Counter-Reformation, founding seminaries, implementing reforms,
and aiding the poor during famines and plagues. He died in 1584 at
age 46 and was canonized in 1610, becoming the patron saint of Milan
and several other cities.
To honor him, his cousin Cardinal
Federico Borromeo commissioned the colossal Colosso di San Carlo
(affectionately called the Sancarlone or “Big San Carlo”).
Construction began in 1614 on the Sacro Monte hill above the town
and was completed in 1698. Standing 35.10 meters (115 feet)
tall—including its pedestal—it was once the largest standing bronze
statue in the world and reportedly inspired elements of the Statue
of Liberty’s design. Only three of the planned chapels were built
alongside a 17th-century basilica. A smaller replica, the
Sancarlino, stands in Corso Cavour.
The Borromeos also built or
restored key religious sites, including contributions to the
Collegiata della Natività di Maria Vergine (1482, with later Baroque
elements and works by artists like Gaudenzio Ferrari and Pier
Francesco Mazzucchelli).
18th–19th Centuries: Wars,
Destruction, and Transformation
Arona experienced shifting
political control during the early modern period: Spanish rule as
part of the Duchy of Milan, followed by Austrian Habsburgs, and then
the House of Savoy via the Treaty of Worms (1743). It endured
sieges, such as a French blockade during the Thirty Years’ War
(1636).
The turning point came with the Napoleonic Wars. In 1800,
Napoleon’s forces captured Arona and ordered the dismantling of
Austrian-held fortifications. The Rocca di Arona was largely
demolished (some accounts date the final destruction to 1800–1850).
Today, only evocative ruins remain in a scenic public park owned by
the Borromeo family, offering panoramic views of the lake and Alps.
After Napoleon’s fall, Arona returned to Savoy control (Congress of
Vienna, 1815). It was formally named a “city” around 1838 by King
Charles Albert. The arrival of the railway to Novara in 1855 spurred
economic growth through trade and early tourism. Figures like
Giuseppe Garibaldi visited in 1848 and 1859 during the Risorgimento.
In 1875, a young Oscar Wilde stayed in Arona while traveling and
wrote his poem “Rome Unvisited.”
20th–21st Centuries: Modern
Tourism and Preservation
In the 20th century, Arona’s economy
shifted decisively toward tourism, aided by its proximity to Milan
(about an hour away), Malpensa Airport, and excellent rail and ferry
links (it is the southernmost port on Lake Maggiore, home to the
Navigazione Lago Maggiore shipyard). The historic center—Piazza del
Popolo, lungolago promenades, colorful palazzi, and churches—retains
its medieval and Renaissance charm.
During World War II, the
area suffered under Nazi occupation; Arona was involved in roundups
and the Lake Maggiore massacres of 1943–1945, including actions
against Jewish communities. Post-war recovery emphasized peaceful
lake tourism.
Today, Arona (population around 13,000–14,000)
thrives on visitors drawn to its beaches (like the restored “Le
rocchette”), hiking trails, the Rocca park, the Sancarlone (which
reopened to the public in recent years), and cultural events. The
Lagoni di Mercurago Nature Park preserves its prehistoric heritage,
while the town serves as a gateway to the Borromean Islands and
broader Lake Maggiore region.
Position on Lake Maggiore and Regional Context
Arona marks the
southern terminus of Lake Maggiore (Lago Maggiore or Lago Verbano),
Italy’s second-largest lake (surface area ~212 km², length ~64 km
from Locarno, Switzerland, in the north). The lake sits at ~193 m
elevation, so Arona lies slightly above the shoreline. As part of
the pre-Alpine lake district, the area transitions from the rolling
hills of the southern Prealps to the Lombard Plain farther south.
The lake itself is glacial in origin, carved by ancient ice flows
(primarily the Ticino-Toce glacier system during the Pleistocene),
with a maximum depth of 372 m and a sinuous shape flanked by the
Pennine, Lepontine, and Lugano Alps to the north.
Arona faces the
Lombardy shore (including the historic Rocca Borromeo di Angera
fortress directly across the water) and offers sweeping views
northward toward the Alps and the Borromean Islands. It serves as
the main southern port on the lake, with ferry connections up to
Locarno. The town is ~25 km north of Milan Malpensa Airport and
well-connected by rail and highway to Milan (~1 hour) and Turin.
Topography and Terrain
The immediate lakeside features a flat
shoreline with a scenic lungolago (lakeside promenade) and small
beaches (such as Le Rocchette). Inland, the terrain rises quickly
into low-to-moderate hilly bas-reliefs of morainic origin—glacial
deposits left by retreating ice sheets at the end of the last Ice
Age (~10,000 years ago). These form a classic moraine amphitheater
with rolling hills, kettle holes, and gentle slopes that create
significant local relief within the small commune area. The hills
are densely wooded and provide panoramic overlooks of the lake.
A
small torrent, the Vevera stream (sometimes referred to as Ververa),
flows through the town center before emptying into Lake Maggiore,
adding minor fluvial features and occasional flood risk in heavy
rains.
Geology and Natural Protected Areas
The landscape
is dominated by Quaternary glacial moraines, which created the
characteristic hummocky terrain and wetland depressions. The most
notable protected area is the Lagoni di Mercurago Natural Park
(Parco Naturale dei Lagoni di Mercurago), located primarily in the
frazione of Mercurago a few kilometers inland. This 473-hectare park
protects peat bogs, mires, small ponds (lagoni—kettle lakes formed
by melting ice blocks), woodlands, and meadows. It is part of the
UNESCO World Heritage Site “Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the
Alps,” as the first Italian pile-dwelling settlement (Bronze Age,
~18th–13th centuries BC) was discovered here in 1860. The park
supports rich biodiversity, including migratory birds, amphibians,
and rare wetland flora, with trails for hiking and areas for horse
pastures.
Land Use and Vegetation
More than 50% of Arona’s
territory is forested hills. Urbanized areas occupy ~33%,
meadows/pastures ~9%, with smaller portions dedicated to
parks/gardens (~2.3%), vegetable gardens/orchards/vineyards (~1.7%),
and minimal arable or uncultivated land. The vegetation reflects a
mix of temperate deciduous woods (oaks, chestnuts, beech) on the
hills and Mediterranean-influenced species near the lake (olives,
laurels) thanks to the mild microclimate.
Climate
Arona
has a mild, lake-moderated temperate climate (Köppen Cfa—humid
subtropical with hot summers, or oceanic with Mediterranean
influences). Lake Maggiore tempers extremes: summers are warm
(average highs ~25–28 °C in July/August), winters are mild to cool
(lows rarely below –3 °C, with occasional frost), and the area is
partly cloudy year-round. Annual precipitation is high (~1,700–1,735
mm), fairly evenly distributed but with peaks in spring (May) and
autumn. Lake breezes moderate humidity and temperatures, supporting
lush vegetation and tourism. Snow is infrequent at lake level but
possible on higher hills.
Historical and Religious Heritage
Arona’s cultural identity is
inseparable from its layered past and religious significance.
Prehistoric Bronze Age pile-dwelling settlements nearby (part of the
UNESCO-listed “Prehistoric Pile Dwellings around the Alps,” including
the Lagoni di Mercurago Nature Park) show early human activity. It later
served as a Roman waypoint, Lombard stronghold, and medieval refuge for
Milanese exiles after Frederick Barbarossa’s 1162 siege of Milan.
The
Borromeo family—wealthy bankers granted the town in the 15th
century—left the deepest mark. Arona was their principal seat and the
1538 birthplace of Saint Charles Borromeo (San Carlo), a key
Counter-Reformation figure and archbishop of Milan. This legacy
culminates in the iconic Sancarlone (Colossus of San Carlo), a 35-meter
(115-foot) bronze statue completed in 1698 on a hill overlooking the
town. One of the world’s largest standing bronze statues (second only to
the Statue of Liberty in some rankings), it is climbable inside,
offering panoramic views through openings in the saint’s robes and eyes.
A smaller “Sancarlino” replica stands in town.
The ruined Rocca
Borromea (10th–11th century fortress, later destroyed by Napoleonic
forces) now forms a scenic public park owned by the Borromeo family,
complete with semi-wild animals—a beloved local spot. Religious sites
include the Collegiata della Natività di Maria Vergine (1480s, with
Renaissance and Baroque additions, featuring artworks by Gaudenzio
Ferrari and Pier Francesco Mazzucchelli/Morazzone) and the Sacro Monte
di Arona dedicated to St. Charles.
Architecture, Art, and the
Historic Center
The compact medieval core radiates charm through
narrow streets, ancient palazzi, and piazzas. Piazza del Popolo serves
as the lively heart, lined with the Palazzo del Podestà and the Baroque
Church of Santa Marta (Madonna di Loreto). The lakeside Lungolago
promenade offers stunning views across to the Rocca Borromeo di Angera
on the opposite shore, the Alps, and the lake itself—perfect for the
classic Italian passeggiata (evening stroll).
The Archaeological and
Mineralogical Museum (Piazza San Graziano) displays Roman artifacts,
Bronze Age finds, and more. Nearby villas like Villa Ponti host cultural
events, while the old mills highlight medieval water engineering. Art
leans toward Lombard-Renaissance and Baroque styles, with sacred
paintings and sculptures emphasizing Borromeo-era piety.
Language
and Daily Life
Locals speak standard Italian, but dialects reveal the
borderland feel: Piedmontese (“Aron-a”) and Western Lombard (“Aruna”).
Community life revolves around family, food, the lake, and social bonds.
Pro Loco Arona (local tourism association) organizes clean-ups, bike
rides, and gatherings that foster tight-knit ties—though as in many
Italian towns, outsiders may find it sociable yet group-oriented.
Tourism brings elegance: fashionable shops, clubs, and a relaxed yet
decorous vibe (think modest dress and leisurely meals). Outdoor
activities—swimming, boating, hiking the Sacro Monte—define the
lifestyle.
Festivals, Traditions, and Events
Arona’s calendar
mixes solemn religious rites with joyful community and seasonal
celebrations:
Tredicino (mid-March, around March 13): The big patron
saints’ feast for Saints Felinus, Gratian (Graziano), and others. It
features a religious procession with relics, masses, and a massive luna
park (funfair) in the main square—blending faith and family fun.
Festa di San Carlo (early November): Celebrations at the Sancarlone with
visits, music, vin brulé (mulled wine), and roasted chestnuts
(castagne).
Summer music and lakeside events: “Musica al Lago”
(Thursday concerts June–August), part of the broader Lake Maggiore Music
Festival. “Arona in Rosa” (pink-themed promenade nights), street food
festivals, “Under Colours” umbrella installations, flower markets, and
artisan fairs.
Sporting/community traditions: Annual Cimento
Invernale (February 1 winter lake swim—brave participants plunge for fun
and solidarity) and the Traversata Arona-Angera (late August open-water
swim across the lake, drawing hundreds).
Markets: Weekly Thursday
market in Piazza del Popolo (food, flowers, goods); summer night
markets; Christmas stalls.
These events emphasize aggregazione
(community bonding), nature appreciation, and gastronomy—hallmarks of
Italian small-town culture.
Cuisine: Piedmontese with a Lake
Twist
Arona’s food draws from Lake Maggiore’s freshwater bounty and
Piedmont’s robust traditions. Signature dishes include:
Risotto al
persico (perch risotto) or other lake fish preparations: fried whitefish
(coregone), missoltini (dried/smoked shad), pike, trout, or fish in
carpione (marinated).
Polenta concia (polenta with cheese and
butter), homemade pasta, brasato al Barolo (beef braised in local wine),
and salumi.
Local cheeses like toma, bettelmat, and Gorgonzola;
regional wines.
Street food events and lakeside trattorias
highlight fresh, seasonal ingredients—often enjoyed with a view.
Modern Culture and Outlook
Today, Arona thrives as a relaxed yet
culturally rich destination. Its UNESCO-linked natural park, climbable
statue, and events draw visitors year-round, while locals preserve
traditions through Pro Loco initiatives. The vibe is genteel and
lakeside—elegant promenades, summer music, family feasts—tempered by a
practical, community-driven spirit. Even literary figures like Oscar
Wilde (who visited in 1875 and wrote “Rome Unvisited” here) were
captivated by its poetic setting.