Framura, Italy

Framura is a scattered Italian town of 638 inhabitants in the province of La Spezia in Liguria. The municipal seat is located in the hamlet of Setta. Located on the Ligurian coast, the small town of Framura is located within one of the many inlets and coves, typical of the indented coast of the eastern Ligurian Riviera. Mount Serro (421 m aboce sea level) represents the highest peak in the Framurese territory and belongs to the protected area of the Cinque Terre.

Crossed by many small streams and rivers, the most interesting is the Castagnola torrent which rises on the slopes of Mount San Nicolao.

 

How to orient yourself

Neighborhoods
Framura, a scattered municipality, is made up of the inhabited centers of Anzo, Castagnola, Costa, Ravecca, and Setta (municipal seat).

 

Sights

Church of the Madonna della Neve (in Anzo). Already an ancient chapel, it preserves various pictorial works such as the canvas of the Madonna and Child with Saints John the Baptist and Sebastian, dating back to the 17th century, a painting of Jesus Christ with Veronica, dating back to the 18th century, and an oil on canvas portraying Christ at the Column, from the sixteenth century and probably from the pictorial school of Luca Cambiaso.
Parish church of San Lorenzo (in Castagnola). It houses a Deposition of Jesus by the painter Luca Cambiaso.
Parish Church of San Martino (in Costa). An ancient parish church in the Framurese area, it was born as a monastic complex under the abbey of San Colombano di Bobbio between the 10th and 11th centuries. Mentioned for the first time in 1128, it is further documented in 1192 as a parish church of the diocese of Genoa. Its parochial jurisdiction included eleven parishes in today's towns of Deiva Marina, Carrodano and Carro roughly corresponding to the ancient Podesta office of Framura of the Republic of Genoa. The structure was completely remodeled between the 15th and 16th centuries, however retaining some elements of the first Romanesque-style building. In the interventions the original octagonal pillars were remodeled and externally there was a setback of the facade. In the 18th century the choir was rebuilt.
The plan of the building is of the basilica type and consists of three naves divided by octagonal pillars; the presbytery is elliptical in shape. The exteriors were originally leaning against a pre-existing watchtower dating back to the Carolingian era. Inside, in addition to the ancient baptismal font in red Levanto marble, perhaps dating back to the 10th or 11th century, there is a canvas by Bernardo Strozzi, in the fourth altar of the left aisle, depicting the Madonna del Rosario between Saints Domenico and Carlo . Tradition has it that Ginetta Strozzi and her son Giovanni Giuseppino, the painter's sister and niece, are portrayed on the faces of the Virgin and Child Jesus. And still popular tradition attributes the initial destination for the cathedral of San Lorenzo to the local Baroque marble pulpit.
Ancient hospice (in Costa). According to a plaque placed on the facade of the building, it was commissioned by Giuliano de Dugo and dates back to 27 December 1400.
9th century watchtower (in Costa). Military defense construction from the Carolingian era.
Private chapel of Saints Bernardo and Pasquale (in Ravecca).
Chapel of San Rocco (in Setta). Decorated with late eighteenth-century finishes and stuccos, in neoclassical style, it houses the painting of the Madonna and Child with Saints Rocco and Nicola, a work that can be dated between the twelfth and eighteenth centuries.
Watchtowers from the 16th century (at Anzo and Setta). They date back to the Genoese domination.

 

Events and parties

March of the Three Towers. in June.
Voices of the sea and stars. in July. music review
Feast of the Madonna della Neve (in Porticciolo). the first Sunday of August.
Feast of San Rocco. on August 16th.
Feast of Saint Lucia. Last Sunday of August. The feast, which liturgically falls on December 13, was moved to the end of the summer holidays at the beginning of the 20th century at the request of vacationers who wanted to collect donations for asylum on the occasion.
Patronal feast of San Lorenzo (in Castagnola). August 10th.
Tourist party. the last Saturday of August. Food and wine itinerary along the hamlets of Costa, Setta, Ravecca, Anzo and Casella.

 

What to do

Framura Sub (Porticciolo Framura), ☎ +39 339 2937077

 

How to get here

By plane
Cristoforo Colombo Airport in Genoa. It is connected to the Genova Brignole railway station with the Volabus, a coach service calibrated at national and international arrivals.
Direct flights: Milan Malpensa, Turin, Cagliari, Naples, Palermo, Catania, Alghero, Olbia, Trapani, Trieste, Rome Fiumicino. International flights: London Stansted, Paris CDG, Cologne, Munich, Brussels, Amsterdam, Barcelona, Istanbul. edit
Galileo Galilei Airport in Pisa. It is more convenient to reach the Riviera di Levante, La Spezia or the Cinque Terre as it is directly connected by train.

 

Shopping

Bennati Maria Rosa Bakery, Localita' Setta 67, ☎ +39 0187 810142.
Enrica Gastronomy "Good Things", Localita Setta 93, ☎ +39 0187 810007.

 

Where to eat

Average prices
1 Silvia Hotel Restaurant, Costa, 5, ☎ +39 0187 810520.
2 Hotel Restaurant Meri, Loc. Costa 1, ☎ +39 0187 823086.

 

Where stay

Average prices
1 Hotel Augusta, Località Anzo, 12, ☎ +39 0187 823026, info@hotelaugusta.net.
2 Perla del Levante Hostel, Via Ravecca 12, ☎ +39 0187 810225, info@perladellevanteframura.it.

 

Safety

Pharmacy
Croci, Via Provinciale, 37 (in the locality of Setta), ☎ +39 0187 810006, settembrec@tiscali.it. Mon-Sat 8:30-12:30 and 16:30-19:30.

 

Geography

Framura is a small comune (municipality) in the Province of La Spezia, Liguria region, northwestern Italy, situated on the Riviera di Levante (eastern Ligurian coast). It lies approximately 50 km (31 mi) southeast of Genoa and 25 km (16 mi) northwest of La Spezia, with geographic coordinates around 44°13′N 9°33′E. The municipality spans just 18.9 km² (7.3 sq mi) and is one of Italy’s classic “comuni sparsi” — a scattered settlement made up of five distinct hamlets (frazioni): Anzo (lowest and closest to the sea), Ravecca, Setta, Costa, and Castagnola (highest, perched around 300 m / 984 ft above sea level).
It borders the municipalities of Bonassola (to the northwest), Deiva Marina (to the southeast), Carrodano (inland), and Levanto (further southeast and the gateway to the Cinque Terre). This places Framura in a privileged transitional zone between the more famous Cinque Terre National Park to the southeast and the quieter stretches of the Levante coast.

Topography and Terrain
Framura sits where the Ligurian Apennines (the northernmost extension of the Apennine chain) plunge dramatically into the Ligurian Sea. The terrain is extremely steep and rugged — typical of Liguria, where mountains and sea meet with almost no flat coastal plain. Elevations within the comune range from sea level (0 m) at the rocky shoreline to a maximum of approximately 845 m (2,772 ft) inland, with an average elevation around 290–291 m (955 ft). The hamlets climb the slopes in a stepped, terraced pattern connected by ancient stairways, mule tracks, and a modern pedestrian/cycle path (the Maremonti route, built along a disused railway line).
The landscape features sharp ridges, narrow valleys, and deeply incised gullies that create a highly dissected relief. The hills are heavily terraced for olive groves and vineyards, a hallmark of Ligurian agriculture that prevents erosion on these precipitous slopes. Inland, the terrain becomes wilder and more forested, transitioning into the protected hilly hinterland that forms part of the broader Ligurian Apennine ecosystem.
Geologically, Framura lies within the Bracco-Levanto ophiolite complex (Jurassic-age oceanic crust remnants). This produces distinctive rock types including serpentinite, ophicalcite (the famous “Rosso Levanto” red marble historically quarried here), pillow basalts, and gabbros. These contribute to the coast’s dramatic red-tinged cliffs and varied rock textures, which create striking visual contrasts against the blue sea.

Coastline and Marine Features
The coastline is indented and predominantly rocky, with high cliffs, small coves, and pocket beaches — classic Riviera di Levante scenery but on a more intimate scale than the Cinque Terre. Key features include:

Torsei Beach — right below the Framura train station.
Vallà Beach — a rare sandy pocket amid otherwise gravel and rock.
Arena Beach — the widest and most accessible, pebbly with views across the bay.
Porto Pidocchio — a scenic cove with dramatic rock faces (popular for climbing).

A tiny harbor at Anzo serves small boats, while the surrounding seabed is famous among divers for numerous historic wrecks. The combination of coastline shape and prevailing winds creates excellent conditions for wave watching and occasional surfing, with high, photogenic winter storms. Reddish rocks glow dramatically at sunset, and the clear waters reflect the overhanging cliffs and hamlets.
The coast is dotted with historic watchtowers built to defend against medieval pirate raids, perched on prominent rocky outcrops.

Vegetation and Natural Environment
Vegetation reflects the Mediterranean climate and steep topography:
Coastal rocks → Aleppo pines (Pinus halepensis) and sparse maquis shrubland.
Northern hillsides → holm oaks (Quercus ilex), chestnut trees, cluster pines, and broadleaf woodlands.
Terraced slopes → olive groves and vineyards producing local wines and oil.

Much of the area is protected under Natura 2000 sites of community interest (SIC). Nearby Monte Serro (421 m / 1,381 ft), between Framura and Deiva Marina, is part of the Cinque Terre protected area and adds to the biodiversity. The hinterland features scattered farmhouses amid green hills, offering a quieter, more authentic contrast to the busier neighboring destinations.

Climate
Framura has a warm-summer Mediterranean climate (Csb), moderated by the Ligurian Sea and the sheltering Apennine ridges. Summers are short, warm, and humid (average highs around 25–27 °C / 77–81 °F in July–August, lows ~20 °C / 68 °F), with mostly clear skies but occasional humidity. Winters are long, mild, and wetter (daytime highs around 11–13 °C / 52–55 °F in January–February, nighttime lows ~6 °C / 43 °F). Annual rainfall totals approximately 1,400 mm (55 in), concentrated in autumn and winter (November is the wettest month), with orographic lift from the mountains enhancing precipitation. The area enjoys high sunshine hours in summer (July averages over 10 hours/day) and relatively stable sea temperatures (around 15–24 °C / 59–75 °F seasonally). Strong winds can generate impressive waves along the exposed coast.

 

History

Pre-Roman and Ancient Origins (3rd century BC–5th century AD)
Archaeological evidence shows human presence dating back to pre-Roman Ligurian times. Materials found at Monte Castellaro di Vigo indicate a Ligurian castellare (hill fort) from the 3rd century BC. During the Roman era, the territory hosted a pagus (rural district), likely tied to the Via Aurelia coastal route. Some etymological theories (though suggestive rather than proven) link the name “Framura” to a possible Roman posting station or to defensive walls (“infra murle”). The rugged terrain and natural harbors made it strategically useful even then.

Early Middle Ages: Byzantine, Lombard, and Frankish Rule (6th–9th centuries)
After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Framura passed under Byzantine control before becoming part of the Lombard Kingdom. Following the Lombard collapse in the late 8th century, the Franks (Carolingian Empire) took over. This era left a tangible legacy: the Carolingian watchtower in Costa, now the bell tower of the Church of San Martino—one of the oldest structures still visible.

Feudal Era and the Da Passano Lords (9th–13th centuries)
By the late High Middle Ages, the territory became a fief of the noble Da Passano family, originally from nearby Passano (near Deiva Marina). They consolidated control over the coastal and inland areas from Levanto to Moneglia and built or strengthened 9th-century fortifications. The family’s influence peaked in the 11th–13th centuries; they signed treaties with Genoa granting privileges and tax exemptions (1139–1247).
A pivotal moment came in 1170 (or 1173 per some accounts): the powerful Fieschi counts of Lavagna seized the Da Passano castle of Frascario. After prolonged disputes, the castle returned to Genoese control. The Da Passano possessions later fell under the administration of the Malaspina marquises. The ruins of this castle and related fortifications still mark the landscape.
The Church of San Martino in Costa provides another key anchor: first documented in 1128 (likely founded by monks from San Colombano di Bobbio in the 10th–11th centuries), it belonged to the Diocese of Genoa by 1192. It was later rebuilt in the 15th–16th centuries and houses important artworks, including a 16th-century painting from the school of Luca Cambiaso and a 17th-century altarpiece of the Madonna del Rosario by Bernardo Strozzi.

Genoese Republic and Maritime Defenses (12th–18th centuries)
In the 12th century, the expanding Republic of Genoa incorporated Framura into its eastern Ligurian territories, forming the podesteria (administrative district) of Framura. This included nearby areas like Passano and Piazza (now part of Deiva Marina) and later merged into the Moneglia podesteria within the Capitaneato of Levanto. Genoa’s rule brought relative stability and economic ties to maritime trade, but the exposed Tyrrhenian coast faced repeated raids by Saracen (Islamic) pirates and Turkish forces—common across Liguria. To counter this, Genoa built or reinforced three coastal watchtowers in the 16th century, located in Anzo, Setta, and Costa. These towers remain iconic symbols of Genoese domination and medieval defense.
In 1680, Genoa abolished Framura’s independent podestà and placed it under Moneglia’s administration, reflecting shifting internal governance.

Napoleonic Period and Italian Unification (1797–1861)
The Republic of Genoa fell in 1797 during the Napoleonic Wars. Framura became part of the short-lived Ligurian Republic and then the French Empire (Department of the Apennines, 1805–1814). After Napoleon’s defeat, the 1815 Congress of Vienna assigned it to the Kingdom of Sardinia (Province of Levante). In 1861, with Italian unification, it entered the Kingdom of Italy. Administratively, it was part of the Levante district (initially under Genoa province, then La Spezia after 1923).

20th Century and World War II
Framura remained a quiet agricultural and fishing community until World War II brought international attention. In 1944, U.S. OSS (Office of Strategic Services) conducted Operations Ginny I and II—15-man missions aimed at sabotaging a key railway tunnel between Framura and Bonassola to disrupt German supply lines. Both missions failed due to navigational errors and bad weather. The soldiers from Ginny II were captured, executed by the German Army, and buried in a mass grave (later honored with memorials). This episode is one of the few well-documented modern events tied specifically to Framura.
Post-war, Framura experienced gradual depopulation (common in rural Liguria) but preserved its medieval character. From 1973 to 2008 it belonged to the Comunità Montana della Riviera Spezzina, and from 2014 to 2019 it joined the Unione dei Comuni Cinque Terre-Riviera. Today it is celebrated as one of Italy’s “most beautiful villages” (Borghi più belli d’Italia) for its unspoiled hamlets, staircased paths, hidden coves, and Genoese towers—offering a quieter alternative to the crowded Cinque Terre.