Lodi, Italy

Lodi is a city in Lombardy. It is the capital of the vast area of Lodigiano, a flat territory in the lower part of the Po of Lombardy.

 

Geographic hints

The territory of Lodi is located in the central-southern part of Lombardy, in the area known as the "lower plain". The oldest nucleus of the city stands on the Eghezzone hill, an approximately trapezoidal hill located on the right bank of the Adda river. The municipal territory is crossed by the Adda and by numerous other watercourses. Lodi is a member of the Climate Alliance network.

Background
Lodi links its origins to the destruction of Laus Pompeia, an ancient village of the Celts Boi. Being situated on the confluence of the roads that from Placentia (Piacenza) and from Acerrae (Pizzighettone) led to Mediolanum (Milan), Laus was a node of primary importance and became a thriving commercial and agricultural village. In 1111 Laus Pompeia was razed to the ground by the Milanese following a period of siege. In 1158 the city was refounded by Emperor Frederick I known as Barbarossa not on the ruins of Laus Pompeia (where Lodi Vecchio stands today) but along the banks of the Adda, to allow it a position of greater control over the territory. In the XIII century Lodi continued to develop thanks to the protection of Federico II. Starting from 1251, the lordships of the Vistarini, Torriani, Visconti, Fissiraga and Vignati followed one another, until in the 14th century the County of Lodi became dependent on the Duchy of Milan, initially under the Visconti who had the majestic castle of Porta Regale built (1355- 1370) and later under the Sforza who, with Francesco, expanded and consolidated the defensive system by building two fortifications at the ends of the bridge over the Adda. Important historical events took place in Lodi during the Renaissance: in 1413 the antipope John XXIII and the emperor Sigismund summoned the Council of Constance from the Lodi cathedral. In 1454 the Italian pre-unification states signed the Peace of Lodi, which guaranteed forty years of political stability. This also marked one of the happiest periods in the history of Lodi from a cultural point of view, especially under the bishopric of Carlo Pallavicino. In later ages Lodi fell under Spanish, Austrian and French rule. This corresponded to a period of decline and slowdown in population growth, especially in the Spanish era, when the city was reduced to a veritable fortress. On May 10, 1796, Napoleon Bonaparte defeated the Austrians in the famous battle of the Lodi bridge, paving the way for the conquest of Milan. In the second half of the 19th century, the city began to expand outside the ancient medieval walls, especially following the opening of the Milan-Piacenza railway line in 1861 and the establishment of the first industries (including Polenghi Lombardo in 1870). .

 

Sights

Religious architecture
Duomo (Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin)
It is the oldest and most important monument in Lodi, as well as one of the largest churches in the whole of Lombardy. Its construction was symbolically undertaken on August 3, 1158, the very day of the foundation of the city, and ended in 1284. The asymmetrical terracotta facade is typically Romanesque, despite being characterized by a high Gothic porch and a large Renaissance rose window; the bell tower, built between 1538 and 1554 to a design by Callisto Piazza from Lodi, remained unfinished for military security reasons. The interior, with three naves covered by cross vaults, houses remarkable works of art, including a polyptych by Callisto Piazza. The oldest part of the building is the crypt, where the remains of the patron Saint Bassiano are kept; in the left apse, moreover, there is a 15th century sculptural group depicting a Lamentation over the Dead Christ.

Civic Temple of the Crowned Blessed Virgin
Located in a characteristic very narrow street near Piazza della Vittoria, it is considered a masterpiece of the Lombard Renaissance and represents the most prestigious monument of the city from an artistic point of view]. Designed in 1488 by Giovanni Battagio, it was built at the expense of the municipality as an expression of popular religiosity on the site of a brothel. The temple looks like a small building with an octagonal plan, covered by a dome with eight segments surmounted by a lantern; the pointed bell tower and the facade were completed in later periods. The interior is embellished with sumptuous gold decorations and houses numerous frescoes, tables and canvases made between the end of the 15th and the beginning of the 19th century by Bergognone, the Piazza workshop and Stefano Maria Legnani; the segments of the dome were frescoed in the 19th century by Enrico Scuri.

Church of San Francesco
It was built between 1280 and 1307. The terracotta façade, which remained unfinished just above the marble rose window, is characterized by a high prothyrum and two "open-air" mullioned windows which represent the first example of an architectural solution which spread all of northern Italy. The interior, with three naves and a Latin cross, is decorated with numerous frescoes dating back to the centuries between the fourteenth and eighteenth centuries; the church also houses the remains of some illustrious Lodigiani, including the librettist Francesco De Lemene, the poet Ada Negri and the naturalist Agostino Bassi.

Church of San Lorenzo
It is the oldest church in Lodi after the Cathedral. Inside, with three naves, significant works of art are preserved, including two frescoes by Callisto Piazza. The typically Romanesque façade is characterized by two semi-cylindrical pilasters and a rose window framed in terracotta, above which is the aedicule with the statue of the saint.

Church of Sant'Agnese
In Lombard Gothic style from the 14th century, it preserves an important work of art: the Galliani Polyptych built in 1520 by Alberto Piazza. The rose window decorated with polychrome majolica is also noteworthy. Next to the church stands the ancient convent with a cloister punctuated by pointed arches, transformed during the 19th century into a sumptuous residence today divided into private apartments.

Church of San Filippo Neri
The rococo-style building was built opposite the end of a long street, in accordance with the scenographic taste of the time. The interior, in the shape of a Greek cross, is completely decorated with precious frescoes dating back to the 18th century.

Bishop's Palace
Built in the Middle Ages and renovated during the eighteenth century by the architect Antonio Veneroni (in collaboration with the Sartorio brothers), it is characterized by a massive and austere structure. Noteworthy is the courtyard with paired columns. The elegant interior has some rooms decorated in the 18th century: the former bishop's chapel and the frescoes by Carlo Innocenzo Carloni are worth mentioning.

Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie
It was built between 1669 and 1743 to house a sacred image of the Virgin, believed to be miraculous. The Greek cross interior is completely decorated with frescoes, canvases and stuccos; a side chapel houses the neoclassical tomb of Maria Cosway, benefactress of the city.

Church of Santa Maria Maddalena
Located near the Adda river, in a slightly off-centre position with respect to the heart of the medieval old town, it represents the best example of a Baroque building in the city. Completed in the first half of the eighteenth century with the exception of the façade, the church is characterized by a single nave with an elliptical plan.

Church of Santa Chiara Nuova
It is an environment of intimate dimensions that houses notable artistic testimonies. It is located in a very narrow street, typical of medieval Lodi. The small building consists of two distinct buildings, one Romanesque and the other Baroque.

St Christopher's Church
Work of the Milanese architect Pellegrino Tibaldi and deconsecrated since 1798, in 1989 it hosted a major exhibition dedicated to the family of painters Piazza da Lodi and in 2001 a review of the graphic work of the American artist Andy Warhol.

Former convents of San Cristoforo and San Domenico
They are used as the headquarters of the Province of Lodi; noteworthy are the internal cloisters.

Church of San Gualtero
In neoclassical style, it was built in a peripheral area in 1835, on the occasion of the visit of the Austrian emperor Ferdinand I. The building preserves the relics of the saint from Lodi to whom it is dedicated.

Church of Saints Bassiano and Fereolo
Built in the second half of the seventeenth century, it houses a wooden choir with nine stalls.

 

Civil architectures

Broletto Palace
Built in 1284 next to the Cathedral, after numerous alterations it is presented in neoclassical forms, as is evident from the portico and the upper loggia, which overlooks the hall of the municipal council. On the two sides of the portico are the bust of Gneo Pompeo Strabo, who attributed the title of municipium to Laus Pompeia (on the left), and that of Federico Barbarossa, founder of Laus Nova (on the right).

Major Hospital
The oldest nucleus of the building dates back to the 15th century; the structure was subsequently enlarged and transformed into a hospital. The neoclassical facade was built at the end of the eighteenth century to a design by Giuseppe Piermarini, the same architect of the Teatro alla Scala in Milan. Inside there is a cloister with portico, loggia and terracotta decorations from the 15th century.

Mozzanica Palace
Built in the second half of the 15th century, it is the best example of a Lodi patrician residence. The facade is characterized by the presence of a terracotta string course, decorated with floral crowns and figures from marine mythology; the portal is adorned with medallions depicting Gian Galeazzo Visconti, Isabella of Aragon, Francesco and Bianca Maria Sforza. The upper floor is full of frescoes. According to the historian Giovanni Agnelli, Francis I of France stayed there during the summer of 1509.

Modignani Palace
Dating back to the 18th century, it hosted many famous people including Napoleon Bonaparte and the Austrian emperor Franz Joseph. There is a large internal courtyard which is accessed via a wrought iron gate by Alessandro Mazzucotelli; the main floor is richly frescoed.

Vistarini Palace
Built in the fourteenth century, it owes its name to the influential Ghibelline family who had it built. The structure has a Gothic style: the brick façade is embellished with single-lancet windows decorated with terracotta frames; the portico is characterized by pointed arches and partly frescoed vaults.

Palazzo Galeano
It is a Baroque building dating from the 17th century, enlarged and transformed in later periods.

Palazzo Villani
Built in the 16th century, it is characterized by a 16th-century facade with Baroque architectural elements.

Theater at the Vineyards
It is the main theater of the city. It was originally a church, a rectory of the order of the Humiliati; in 1570 it passed to the Barnabite fathers who converted the building into a higher institute of theology. After numerous changes of intended use and a radical restructuring, in 1985 it became the seat of the theatre.

Governament Palace
It is one of the most original buildings in the city from an architectural point of view; it is a large building that occupies an entire block behind the town hall and overlooks Piazza del Mercato. Built in 1929 on medieval foundations, the building embodies different styles: in particular, the rustication of the lower order recalls Venetian architecture. Since 1995 it has been the seat of the Prefecture of Lodi.

Villa Brailla
Historical residence in Art Nouveau style, it is located south-east of the city center and is surrounded by a large public park.

Bridge over the Adda
It is a bridge with lowered arches which, crossing the river, connects the Borgo Adda district with Revellino-Campo di Marte. It was built in 1864 to replace the original wooden bridge where the battle of Lodi took place, burned by the Austrian troops in 1859, during the second war of independence.

Management center of Banca Popolare di Lodi
Designed by Renzo Piano and built near the railway station a few steps from the historic centre, it covers over 3000 m² and represents the most interesting building in the city from an architectural point of view among those of the second half of the twentieth century. It has been chosen as the setting for some commercials.

 

Military architectures

Walls of Lodi
The first defensive work of the city – already protected on three sides by the marshes of the Adda – consisted of a simple wooden palisade protected by a ditch in which the Molina canal was made to flow; in this way Lodi had practically become an island. The construction of the walls began on 3 August 1160, in the presence of Federico Barbarossa, the bishop Alberigo Merlino and the Cremonese architect Tinto Muso de Gata, and ended in 1211. These were at least six or seven meters high and the battlements were swallow as the city was Ghibelline. In the Sforza period, protection systems developed particularly near the river, with the construction of the ravelin on the Crema bank and the two towers at the ends of the bridge over the Adda. In 1607, during the Spanish era, extensive bulwarks were built which extended towards the countryside, giving the city a "starred" structure. Having become obsolete and unusable, in the Austrian era they were quickly demolished in the mid-eighteenth century, replaced by the ring road. The ancient walls were largely demolished in the 20th century due to building expansion; nowadays, traces of it remain in various parts of the city, including the Observatory of San Vincenzo near the park of Isola Carolina.

Visconti Castle and Tower
It is a typical medieval fortress, largely destroyed; its tall and massive tower is one of the best-known symbols of the city. The building cannot be visited as it is occupied by the offices of the Lodi Police Headquarters.

Porta Cremona
It is the only remaining one of the ancient gates to the city. Its current appearance is due to the complete renovation carried out between 1790 and 1792 by the architect Antonio Dossena.

 

Streets and squares

Victory Square
Known as «piazza Maggiore» until 1924, it represents the heart of the city: in particular, the Cathedral and the town hall (palazzo Broletto) overlook it. Characterized by a quadrangular plan, it is a rare example of a square with porticos on all four sides. This singular peculiarity, combined with the elegance of the buildings that overlook it (very varied in color and size), makes it a particularly suggestive place, so much so that the Italian Touring Club included it in 2004 in the list of the most beautiful squares of Italy. The paving of the square, in the typical Lombard «ricciato» made up of river pebbles, dates back to 1471 or, according to some sources, to the 18th century.

Broletto square
It is a trapezoidal area, of reduced dimensions, enclosed between the porticoes of Palazzo Broletto and the left side of the Cathedral. In medieval times it represented the fulcrum of the city's public life, now it is the seat of the municipal authority. In the center is a fountain in pink Carrara marble, obtained from the baptismal font of the Cathedral and dating back to the 14th century. It is a pedestrian area.

Market Square
It is a rectangular square, also paved with the typical «ricciato», overlooked by the apse of the Cathedral, a secondary wing of Palazzo Broletto, the Palazzo del Governo and the Palazzo Vescovile. On Saturdays and Sundays, as per tradition, the itinerant market is held there.

Piazza Castello
It is a rather large square, used as a pedestrian area with the exception of the central band which is open to vehicular traffic; it takes its name from the Castello Visconteo which overlooks it. A statue dedicated to Vittorio Emanuele II also stands out, celebrating the unification of Italy. The plaza borders Carolina Island Park.

Hospital Square
Commonly called "Piazza San Francesco", it is sung in some works of the poet Ada Negri. This rectangular square, also paved with «ricciato» and used as a pedestrian area, is characterized by the presence of the church of San Francesco and the façade of the Ospedale Maggiore; there is also a statue depicting the scientist Paolo Gorini.

San Lorenzo square
It is a very small square, almost hidden among a maze of narrow and winding streets typical of the medieval historic center of Lodi; its intimate but luminous atmosphere is reminiscent of a Venetian campiello. The square derives its name from the homonymous church that overlooks it and is also a pedestrian area.

Corso Rome
It originates from Piazza della Vittoria and is very popular due to the numerous commercial activities [80]. Similarly to other streets in the city center, it offers as its main reason of interest the presence of Art Nouveau buildings and the suggestive internal courtyards of stately homes.

 

Natural areas

Carolina Island Park
Located close to the historic center, in the immediate vicinity of Piazza della Vittoria and Piazza Castello, it owes its name to the Carolina farmhouse which in turn was christened in 1825 in honor of Carolina Augusta of Bavaria, wife of Emperor Francis I of 'Austria. The park has an area of about 50,000 m² and was built in the mid-1950s thanks to a donation from Enrico Mattei who wanted to reward the city in which important natural gas deposits had been discovered. Mattei spared no expense and had essences of notable botanical interest planted, selected near Lake Como. Since 2006 it has housed the headquarters of the Adda Sud Park.

Federico Barbarossa Public Gardens
They are located almost in the heart of the city centre, along viale IV Novembre: they occupy the area which forms the leveling of the moat in which the Molina canal flowed until the 1930s, which between 1931 and 1937 was channeled and covered thanks to the project by the local architect Giovanni Attilio Fugazza. However, the original nucleus of the gardens dates back to 1835, the year of the visit to the city by Emperor Ferdinand I of Austria. In the center stands the monument to the Resistance, the work of 1967 by the sculptor Gianni Vigorelli.

Along Adda Bonaparte
It allows you to walk near the Adda river, in contact with the river vegetation; it was one of the favorite places of the poet Giosuè Carducci when he visited Lodi.

Belgarden wood
It is a small naturalistic oasis located on the banks of the Adda, on the border with the territory of Montanaso Lombardo; numerous paths originate from the area which allow you to visit the surrounding woods, partially transformed into a botanical garden, where aquatic birds such as moorhens, mallards, swans, herons and little grebes also live. During the summer it becomes a recreation center thanks to the presence of a swimming pool managed by the Municipality of Lodi.

Great forest of Lodi (Valley Grassa-Coldana-Sant'Antonio forest)
It is an area of notable naturalistic interest, created by the Province of Lodi with funding from the Lombardy Region. Located near the town, it can be visited thanks to the presence of cycle and pedestrian paths. It is a reforestation carried out with native tree and shrub species, with a permanent legal destination as a forest

 

History

Lodi links its origins to the destruction of Laus Pompeia, an ancient village of the Celts Boi and later a Roman municipium, renamed in 89 BC. in honor of the consul Gneo Pompeo Strabone. Being situated on the confluence of the roads that from Placentia (Piacenza) and from Acerrae (Pizzighettone) led to Mediolanum (Milan), and at the crossing point with the road that from Ticinum (Pavia) continued up to Brixia (Brescia), Laus was a node of primary importance and became a thriving commercial and agricultural village]. After passing under the control of the Longobards (6th-8th century) and subsequently of the Franks (8th-9th century), on 24 May 1111 Laus Pompeia was razed to the ground by the Milanese following a period of siege. The peace accords forbade the rebuilding of destroyed buildings.

Almost fifty years later, on August 3, 1158, the city was refounded by Emperor Frederick Barbarossa not on the ruins of Laus Pompeia (where Lodi Vecchio stands today) but along the banks of the Adda, to allow it a position of greater control over the territory . The sovereign granted Lodi extraordinary privileges, despite which the city grew with difficulty: in 1167 it was forced by the Milanese to join the Lombard League and to participate in the battle of Legnano in 1176.

In the XIII century Lodi continued to develop thanks to the protection of Federico II. Starting from 1251, the lordships of the Vistarini, Torriani, Visconti, Fissiraga and Vignati followed one another, until in the 14th century the County of Lodi became dependent on the Duchy of Milan, initially under the Visconti who had the majestic castle of Porta Regale built (1355- 1370) and later under the Sforza who, with Francesco, expanded and consolidated the defensive system by building two fortifications at the ends of the bridge over the Adda.

Important historical events took place in Lodi during the Renaissance: in 1413 the antipope John XXIII and the emperor Sigismund convened the Council of Constance from the Cathedral of Lodi, which would later resolve the Western Schism. On April 9, 1454, the Italian pre-unification states signed the Peace of Lodi, which guaranteed forty years of political stability. This also marked one of the happiest periods in the history of Lodi from a cultural point of view, especially under the bishopric of Carlo Pallavicino.

 

Where to eat

Modest prices
Burger King Lodi, Viale Pavia, 98, ☎ +39 0371 091092. Mon-Sun: 11:30-22:00. Amenities are: King Drive, Parking, Play King, Wifi, Parties.

Average prices
1 Outside Modena, Via Mosè Bianchi, 1, ☎ +39 0371 425062.
2 Osteria Vecchia Lodi, Via Lago di Garda, 21, ☎ +39 0371 495373.
3 Pizzeria Armandino, Via Marsala, 94, ☎ +39 0371 423242.
4 Gaffurio Restaurant, Via Gaffurio, 11, ☎ +39 0371 426967.
5 Tre Gigli All'Incoronata, Piazza della Vittoria, 47, ☎ +39 0371 421404.
6 Latin Quarter - Tex-Mex restaurant, Via Dei Tigli 3, ☎ +39 0371 432494.
7 Trattoria Torretta, Piazza Angelo Maria Sommariva, 4, ☎ +39 0371 413547.
8 Kentucky Western Saloon restaurant, Viale Milano, 95, ☎ +39 366 8004707.
9 Pizzeria Fontana, Viale Torino, 1, ☎ +39 0371 427263.

 

Where stay

Average prices
1 Hotel restaurant Castello, Piazza Castello, 2, ☎ +39 0371 420396.
2 Albergo Anelli, Via Vignati, 7, ☎ +39 0371 421354.
3 Hotel Concorde, Piazzale della Stazione, 2, ☎ +39 0371 421322.
4 Hotel Europa, Viale Pavia, 5, ☎ +39 0371 35215.
5 Villa Laila Bed & Breakfast, Via Agello, 6, ☎ +39 335 210830.
6 La Gallina Bed and Breakfast, Via Lago D'Iseo, 28, ☎ +39 345 1167192.

 

Safety

1 Barbieri Pharmacy, Piazza Vittoria, 43, ☎ +39 0371 420004.
2 Brusoni Pharmacy, Via Grandi, 6.
3 Chioda Pharmacy, Corso Roma, 79, ☎ +39 0371 420161.
4 Municipal Pharmacy N.1, Via S. Bassiano, 39, ☎ +39 0371 410161.
5 Municipal Pharmacy N.2, Via Cavallotti, 23, ☎ +39 0371 50243.
6 Municipal Pharmacy N.3, Viale Savoia, 1, ☎ +39 0371 31587.
7 Municipal Pharmacy N.4, Viale Pavia, 9, ☎ +39 0371 34600.
8 Corbellini Pharmacy, Via Italia, 59/A, ☎ +39 0371 31493.
9 Central Pharmacy, Via Marsala, 8, ☎ +39 0371 420067.
10 Giberti Pharmacy, Corso Roma, 29, ☎ +39 0371-420127.
11 Manfrini Pharmacy, Piazza della Vittoria, 6, ☎ +39 0371 420023.

 

How to keep in touch

Post
12 Poste Italiane, via Fascetti 1/a, ☎ +39 0371 468178.
13 Poste Italiane (Lodi 1), via Volturno 4, ☎ +39 0371 542731.
14 Poste Italiane (Lodi 2), via Lodivecchio 7, ☎ +39 0371 412031.
15 Poste Italiane (Lodi 3), viale Italia 65, ☎ +39 0371 431843.