Ragusa is a captivating city in southeastern Sicily, Italy,
serving as the capital of the Province of Ragusa. With a population
of approximately 73,778 as of 2025, it ranks as the sixth-largest
city in Sicily and the 74th in Italy. Often described as a "city of
two souls," Ragusa is uniquely divided into two distinct districts:
the ancient, Baroque-rich Ragusa Ibla (the lower town) and the more
modern Ragusa Superiore (the upper town), separated by a deep gorge
spanned by bridges and ancient stairways. This division stems from
its dramatic history, particularly the devastating 1693 earthquake
that leveled much of southeastern Sicily, leading to a remarkable
reconstruction in the Sicilian Baroque style.
The city is part of
the Val di Noto region, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2002,
recognized for representing the pinnacle of European Baroque art.
Ragusa's golden limestone buildings, perched on hillsides and
cascading into valleys, create a visually stunning landscape that
has earned it fame in literature and media, including as a key
filming location for the popular Italian TV series Inspector
Montalbano. Its blend of history, architecture, and natural beauty
makes it a highlight of Sicilian tourism, offering an authentic
experience away from the island's more crowded spots.
Ragusa's dual nature is its defining feature. Ragusa Ibla, the
historic heart, clings to a lower hill, its narrow, winding streets
evoking a medieval village reborn in Baroque splendor. It's a labyrinth
of alleys, staircases, and piazzas, with 18 UNESCO-protected buildings,
including ornate palaces and churches. The atmosphere is enchanting,
especially at dusk when lights illuminate the golden facades.
In
contrast, Ragusa Superiore is the "new" upper town, built
post-earthquake with wider, straight streets in a rational grid. It
houses modern amenities, administrative buildings, and elegant 18th-19th
century architecture, blending functionality with aristocratic charm.
The two are connected by three bridges—Ponte Vecchio, Ponte Nuovo, and
Ponte Giovanni XXIII—spanning the gorge, as well as ancient stone
stairways like those of Santa Maria delle Scale. Exploring both requires
some stair-climbing, but the views are rewarding.
Ragusa boasts over 50 Baroque churches and numerous palaces. In Ibla,
the Duomo di San Giorgio (1738–1775) is a masterpiece by Rosario
Gagliardi, with its convex facade, grand staircase, and majolica-tiled
dome. Nearby, the Church of San Giuseppe features intricate interiors,
while the Giardino Ibleo offers panoramic gardens with ancient ruins.
In Superiore, the Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista (1706–1760)
dominates Piazza San Giovanni with its towering bell tower and ornate
columns. The Donnafugata Palace, a short drive away, houses art
collections and gardens. Archaeological sites like the ancient Greek
colony of Kamarina provide deeper historical insights, with its museum
displaying artifacts.
Other highlights include the Hyblaean
Archaeological Museum and coastal spots like Marina di Ragusa for
beaches. For Montalbano fans, tours visit filming locations.
Ragusa embodies Sicilian culture through festivals like the Festa di
San Giorgio (April) with processions and fireworks, and culinary
traditions. Local cuisine features dairy products like Ragusano cheese
(a PDO-protected caciocavallo), scacce (stuffed flatbreads), arancini,
and sweets like cannoli. The area has Michelin-starred restaurants, such
as Duomo in Ibla, blending tradition with innovation. Wine from nearby
Vittoria (Cerasuolo di Vittoria DOCG) complements meals.
The city's
artistic heritage includes Baroque art, with influences from Spanish
rule, and a vibrant scene of galleries and events.
Ancient Origins (Prehistory to Roman Era)
The history of Ragusa
begins in the 2nd millennium BC, during the Neolithic Age, when early
Sicel (or Siculi) tribes from northern and central Italy settled in the
region, driven south by more dominant groups. These indigenous people
established hilltop communities for defense, exploiting the area's
natural fortifications. The site of modern Ragusa Ibla is identified
with the ancient Sicel city of Hybla Heraea (sometimes called Hybla
Heraia or Hybla Maior), named after the Sicel goddess of earth and
fertility. Perched on a 300-meter-high hill, it grew prosperous through
trade with nearby Greek colonies, particularly the port of Camerina
(modern Santa Croce Camerina), founded by Syracuse.
The Sicels
resisted Greek expansion fiercely, allying at times with colonies like
Camerina that rebelled against Syracuse. However, by the 5th century BC,
under leaders like Ducetius, they united briefly against Greek dominance
but were ultimately subdued. Archaeological evidence, including
cemeteries around the Iblean plateau, confirms Sicel and early Greek
presence from the 20th century BC onward.
Hybla Heraea fell under
Carthaginian control briefly before Roman conquest in the 3rd century BC
during the Punic Wars. As part of the Roman province of Sicilia, it
served as a fortified outpost. The name evolved over time—from Hybla
Heraea to Ereusia, then Rausa, and eventually Ragusa—reflecting
linguistic shifts under Roman influence. Roman rule brought
infrastructure, but the city remained a minor center compared to larger
Sicilian hubs like Syracuse.
Byzantine and Arab Periods (5th–11th
Centuries)
Following the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Ragusa
came under Byzantine control in the 5th century AD. The Byzantines
fortified the city, building a large castle to defend against invasions
by Vandals, Goths, and Visigoths, who repeatedly raided the area. This
era lasted about five centuries, marked by relative stability amid
broader Sicilian turmoil.
In 848 AD, amid a severe famine, Arab
forces conquered the region, renaming the town Rakkusa (or Ragusa). Arab
rule, lasting until the 11th century, transformed Ragusa into a thriving
agricultural and trade center. They introduced advanced irrigation, new
crops (like citrus and cotton), and urban development, building houses
and promoting commerce. This period enriched Sicilian culture, blending
Islamic influences with existing Greco-Roman elements.
Norman
Conquest and Medieval Era (11th–17th Centuries)
The Arab era ended in
1061 when local rebellions, supported by Norman forces under Count Roger
I (Roger de Hauteville), ousted the Muslims. In 1091, Roger established
the County of Ragusa as a fief for his son Godfrey (or Goffredo), making
it one of Sicily's earliest Norman counties. Under Norman rule, Ragusa
flourished as a strategic feudal capital, with a castle and growing
aristocracy.
It remained an independent county until 1296, when it
merged with the County of Modica under the Chiaramonte family, forming a
powerful regional entity. During the Middle Ages, the city transitioned
from a feudal stronghold to one influenced by emerging aristocracy in
the Renaissance. Some 15th-century remnants survive, such as fragments
in the Church of Santa Maria delle Scale and the portal of San Giorgio
Vecchio. By the 16th century, Ragusa was a prosperous town, but tensions
arose between conservative nobles in Ibla and progressive merchants
favoring modernization.
The Devastating Earthquake of 1693 and
Baroque Rebirth
The pivotal event in Ragusa's history was the massive
earthquake on January 11, 1693, which struck the Val di Noto region with
an estimated magnitude of 7.4. It killed over 5,000 of Ragusa's 9,900
inhabitants and destroyed much of the old town (Ibla). The disaster
flattened medieval structures, including the original Church of San
Giovanni Battista.
Reconstruction began immediately, showcasing
resilience and innovation. Nobles rebuilt Ibla in the opulent Baroque
style, preserving its medieval labyrinthine layout with narrow, curving
streets and airy plazas. However, a faction of residents, favoring a
safer site, founded Ragusa Superiore to the west on a higher plateau,
with a grid-like urban plan influenced by Enlightenment ideals—wide,
straight streets and grand squares. This "new" town grew rapidly,
featuring landmarks like the Cathedral of San Giovanni Battista (begun
1718, consecrated 1778) designed by Rosario Gagliardi.
The two
Ragusas coexisted as rivals for over two centuries, connected by ancient
stone stairways (like the 340-step path from Superiore to Ibla) and
later bridges built between 1843 and 1964, earning Ragusa the nickname
"City of Bridges." Ibla boasts nine major Baroque churches and seven
palazzi, including the Basilica of San Giorgio (1738–1775). The entire
Val di Noto reconstruction, completed in about 50 years, exemplified
advanced urban planning.
Modern History (18th Century to Present)
In the 19th century, Ragusa became known for its bridges and as an
"island within an island," symbolizing its unique cultural identity amid
Sicily's unification with Italy in 1861. The two towns unified
administratively in 1926–1927, forming the provincial capital. It was
elevated to a diocese in 1950, with San Giovanni Battista as its
cathedral.
Economically, Ragusa shifted from agriculture to industry,
becoming a key asphalt producer and, by the 1970s, an oil hub. Today,
tourism drives the economy, drawn to its Baroque treasures, such as the
Donnafugata Palace's art collection. The city's dual nature—ancient soul
in Ibla, modern spirit in Superiore—continues to captivate, as does its
role in popular culture, featured in films and TV series like Inspector
Montalbano.
Ragusa, located in southeastern Sicily, serves as the capital of the
Province of Ragusa and is positioned at coordinates approximately
36°56′N 14°45′E. As the southernmost provincial capital in Italy, it
lies within the Val di Noto region, about 90 kilometers southwest of
Catania and roughly 20 kilometers inland from the Mediterranean Sea,
with its coastal resort area, Marina di Ragusa, providing access to
beaches. The city is nestled in the Hyblaean Mountains (also known as
the Monti Iblei), a calcareous plateau of Cretaceous-Miocene origin
characterized by rolling hills, deep ravines, and limestone formations,
which dominate the landscape of this part of Sicily.
The topography
of Ragusa is defined by its hilly terrain, with the city built on a wide
limestone hill at an average elevation of around 500-600 meters above
sea level, though some points reach up to 1,800 feet (approximately 550
meters). It is situated between two prominent deep valleys, or "caves"
(quarries in local terminology): Cava San Leonardo to the north and Cava
Santa Domenica to the east, which carve through the plateau and create
dramatic gorges. This unique setting divides Ragusa into two distinct
sections: Ragusa Superiore (the upper, modern town) on a plateau to the
west, and Ragusa Ibla (the lower, historic district) on a spur to the
east, separated by the Valle dei Ponti ravine spanned by four bridges,
including the notable 18th-century Ponte dei Cappuccini. The terrain
features several key hills, such as Patro and Cucinello supporting the
upper town, while Corrado, Pendente, and Selvaggio underpin more recent
expansions; to the east lies San Cono hill, and to the south, Mount
Bollarito.
The surrounding Hyblaean Mountains extend northward, with
the province's highest peaks including Monte Lauro, Monte Casale, and
Monte Arcibessi at 906 meters, contributing to a rugged interior
landscape incised by canyons and plateaus. These mountains form part of
a broader karstic environment, with limestone cliffs, terraced slopes,
and occasional caves, fostering a mix of Mediterranean scrub vegetation
and agricultural lands.
Hydrographically, Ragusa is influenced by the
Irminio River, one of southeastern Sicily's major waterways, which flows
through a gorge below the city and eventually reaches the Mediterranean
Sea about 20 kilometers south. Additional streams, such as the San
Leonardo torrent and Fiumicello, border the city, enhancing the network
of valleys and contributing to occasional flash flooding in the ravines.
The province's coastline stretches approximately 85 kilometers from
Scoglitti in the west to Pozzallo in the east, bordered by the Channel
of Sicily to the south, featuring sandy beaches, dunes, and low cliffs,
though the city itself is inland.
Ragusa's climate is classified as
hilly Mediterranean, moderated by its elevation, resulting in cooler
temperatures compared to the Sicilian coast—mild winters with averages
around 10-15°C and warm summers peaking at 25-30°C, with lower humidity
inland. Precipitation is moderate, concentrated in autumn and winter,
supporting olive groves, vineyards, and carob trees typical of the
Iblean plateau. Geologically, the area is rich in asphalt and has become
a significant oil-producing zone since the 1970s, overlaying the
limestone bedrock. This combination of elevated plateaus, incised
valleys, and proximity to the sea creates a diverse geographical mosaic
that has shaped Ragusa's history, from ancient settlements on defensible
hills to its reconstruction after the 1693 earthquake.
Historically an agricultural and mining hub (asphalt and oil since the 1970s), Ragusa's economy now centers on tourism, food production, and services. The province is Sicily's most prosperous, with low unemployment, driven by greenhouse farming (tomatoes, flowers) and coastal development. UNESCO status has boosted visitor numbers, supporting hotels, restaurants, and crafts.
Accessible by car from Catania Airport (about 1.5 hours) or Syracuse, Ragusa is best explored on foot or by bus between districts. Stay in Ibla for atmosphere or Superiore for convenience. Spring (April–June) or fall (September–October) avoids summer heat. Combine with nearby Baroque towns like Modica or Scicli for a Val di Noto tour.