Rossano, also improperly called Rossano Calabro to distinguish it
from Rossano Veneto, is a hamlet of 36 623 inhabitants, currently
part of the municipality of Corigliano-Rossano, in the province of
Cosenza, in Calabria. The city is also known as Rossano the
Byzantine and Rossano city of the Codex, in homage to the Purple
Code, one of the oldest gospels in the world and kept for centuries
in Rossano (Diocesan and Codex Museum), included in the UNESCO
heritage list in the "World Memory" category.
On 22 October
2017, through a referendum, the merger process with the nearby
municipality of Corigliano Calabro began, which culminated on 31
March 2018 in the establishment of the new municipality of
Corigliano-Rossano.
Codex Purpureus Rossanensis (Rossano Gospels)
The undisputed star.
A 6th-century illuminated Greek Gospel book written in silver and gold
ink on purple-dyed parchment. It contains the full Gospel of Matthew and
most of Mark, plus 14 extraordinary miniatures that are among the oldest
surviving illustrations of the New Testament. UNESCO Memory of the World
since 2015. Displayed in climate-controlled splendour in the Diocesan
Museum next to the cathedral.
A magnificent 11th–18th-century
basilica with a richly decorated interior of gilded stucco, marble
floors and a coffered ceiling. The highlight is the ancient “Achiropita”
icon (not made by human hands) of the Madonna, believed to date from the
8th century or earlier. The cathedral square is the heart of the old
town.
Oratory of San Marco (10th century)
The best-preserved
Byzantine church in Italy — tiny, perfectly proportioned, with
Greek-cross plan and original fresco fragments.
Church of the
Panaghia
Another 10th-century Byzantine gem with frescoes of St John
Chrysostom.
Abbey of Santa Maria del Patire (or Pathirion)
Just outside town on a panoramic hilltop (founded 1095 by St Bartholomew
of Simeri). A stunning Romanesque-Byzantine church with Arab-Norman
influences, mosaics and incredible views over the Ionian Sea. One of the
most atmospheric monastic ruins in southern Italy.
Museo della
Liquirizia “Giorgio Amarelli”
Housed in an 18th-century factory, this
museum tells the story of Calabria’s famous black-gold liquorice
(protected PDO status). Family-run since 1731, the Amarelli family still
produces the world’s finest liquorice in the original premises. The
museum has antique machinery, documents and free tastings.
Other
gems
Church of San Bernardino (late-Gothic, first Catholic church in
town)
Renaissance cloister of San Francesco
16th-century Torre
Stellata fortress
Rossano is fiercely proud of its Greek-Byzantine roots. The Greek
language and rite survived here longer than almost anywhere else in
Italy. Every July the town hosts the free Marco Fiume Blues Passion
festival — three days of blues and jazz in the historic centre.
Food
highlights: liquorice everything (even pasta and beer), clementine di
Calabria IGP, spicy ’nduja, and fresh seafood from the Ionian. Don’t
miss the local pitta (flatbread) and sardella (baby anchovy paste).
The old centre is pedestrian-only and very steep — comfortable shoes
essential.
Reach Rossano by train (Rossano Stazione on the
Sibari–Crotone line), car via SS106, or bus from Cosenza/Rome.
The
merger into Corigliano-Rossano created Calabria’s largest comune
(~77,000 people), so you’ll often see both names used interchangeably.
Ancient Origins and Roman Period
The origins of Rossano trace back
to the 11th–8th centuries BCE, attributed to the Oenotrian people, an
ancient Italic tribe that inhabited southern Italy before the arrival of
Greek colonists. The town later fell under Roman control and was known
as Roscianum. During the Roman Empire, it served as an important
fortress in Calabria, as noted in the Antonine Itineraries. In the 2nd
century AD, Emperor Hadrian constructed or rebuilt a significant port
capable of handling up to 300 ships, highlighting its strategic maritime
role. The town resisted invasions by the Goths, including attempts by
Alaric I in the 5th century and Totila in the 6th century, demonstrating
its fortified defenses.
Byzantine Era: The Golden Age (6th–11th
Centuries)
Rossano's most prominent period began under Byzantine rule
from 540 to 1059 AD, following the reconquest of Italy from the
Ostrogoths by the Byzantine Empire in the mid-6th century. Known then as
Rhusianum, it became a key stronghold and administrative center, serving
as the seat of the "Stratego" (a combined military and civil governor)
from 951–952. This elevated Rossano to the capital of Byzantine
possessions in Italy, fostering a vibrant fusion of Greek-Eastern and
Latin-Western cultures. The town's loyalty to the Byzantines was evident
in its retention of the Greek Rite in religious practices long after
other regions adopted Latin traditions.
This era saw a flourishing of
monasticism and art, influenced by Greek refugees and Sicilian exiles
fleeing Arab occupations. Rossano became a hub for Byzantine culture,
with numerous churches and monasteries built, including the Oratory of
Saint Mark (originally dedicated to St. Anastasia), a 10th-century
structure considered one of the best-preserved Byzantine churches in
Italy. It features a Greek cross plan with three eastward apses and five
domes, showcasing Eastern architectural elements.
The period also
produced notable figures, such as Saint Nilus the Younger (c. 910–1005),
born in Rossano, who promoted Greek monasticism following the Rule of
St. Basil. He founded several communities in Calabria and later the
Abbey of Grottaferrata near Rome in 1004, which remains a center of
Greek liturgy today. Nilus's life provides valuable insights into
10th-century southern Italy, including interactions with Saracen
invasions and imperial politics. Rossano was also the birthplace of Pope
John VII (c. 650–707) and Antipope John XVI (c. 945–1001), underscoring
its religious prominence.
A crowning cultural treasure from this time
is the Codex Purpureus Rossanensis (also known as the Rossano Gospels),
a 6th-century illuminated Greek manuscript on purple-dyed parchment,
likely originating from Syria or Alexandria. Discovered in 1879 in the
Cathedral of Rossano, it contains the Gospels of Matthew and Mark with
14 miniatures and is one of the oldest surviving illuminated New
Testament manuscripts. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2015, it
symbolizes Rossano's role as a scriptorium hub and is now housed in the
Diocesan and Codex Museum.
Medieval Period: Norman, Swabian, and
Feudal Rule (11th–15th Centuries)
With the Norman conquest in the
11th century, Rossano transitioned from Byzantine to Norman control but
retained privileges under the Hohenstaufen and Angevin dynasties. In
982, it was briefly captured by Holy Roman Emperor Otto II. The Abbey of
Santa Maria del Patire (or Pathirion), founded in 1095 by Bartolomeo di
Simeri, exemplifies the Romanesque-Byzantine fusion during the Norman
era. This monastery, located in the hills outside Rossano, became one of
southern Italy's most influential, with a rich library and scriptorium.
It features Arab-style mosaics, a Norman apse, and ancient portals, and
was a center for manuscript transcription.
Under Swabian rule, the
town continued as a cultural center, but feudalization in 1417 initiated
a decline. Defensive structures like the Norman Tower of Sant’Angelo, a
star-shaped coastal fortification with innovative features such as a
vertical well for sieges, were built to protect against invasions.
Later Periods: Spanish Domination, Unification, and Modern Era
(16th–21st Centuries)
In the 16th century, Rossano came under Spanish
control after passing through the Sforza family and Sigismund I the Old.
In 1558, Philip II of Spain united it to the crown of Naples based on
the will of Bona Sforza. Under Bona and her daughter Isabella, it
briefly became a literary hub, but Spanish rule led to economic
stagnation. The lordship was sold to the Aldobrandini in 1612 and then
to the Borghese family in 1637, who held it until 1806. Rossano
participated in the Neapolitan Republic of 1799 but saw little
improvement post-Unification of Italy in 1861, leading to mass
emigration.
The Cathedral of Maria Santissima Achiropita, originally
built in the 11th century and modified in the 18th–19th centuries,
stands as a central landmark. It features a nave with aisles, a
14th-century bell tower, and the ancient fresco of the Madonna
Achiropita ("not made by human hands," dating to 580–800 AD), along with
Baroque decorations.
In modern times, Rossano has preserved its
heritage while developing industries like Amarelli licorice production,
rooted in the 18th century and celebrated in a museum. The town's
microclimate supports unique agriculture, including white olive oil used
in rituals. As part of Corigliano-Rossano, it attracts tourists for its
historic center, outdoor activities in nearby national parks, and
cultural events. Emigration has slowed, but the focus remains on
safeguarding Byzantine treasures and promoting Calabria's diverse
history.
Rossano, now a frazione (subdivision) of the larger comune of
Corigliano-Rossano in the province of Cosenza, Calabria, southern
Italy, is a historic town with a diverse and picturesque
geographical setting. It occupies a strategic position in the "toe"
of Italy's boot-shaped peninsula, where the rugged inland mountains
transition to coastal plains and beaches along the Ionian Sea. This
location has historically made it a crossroads of natural beauty,
cultural heritage, and economic activities tied to the land and sea.
Geographically, Rossano is situated on a precipitous spur of the
Sila mountain massif, overlooking the Gulf of Taranto (part of the
Ionian Sea). Its coordinates are approximately 39°34′N 16°38′E,
placing it about 3 kilometers inland from the coastline. The town
spans an area of around 149 square kilometers (though the merged
Corigliano-Rossano comune covers about 347 square kilometers), with
elevations ranging from sea level along the coast to roughly 297
meters (975 feet) in the highest parts of the historic center. This
hilly terrain provides stunning panoramic views of the surrounding
plains and sea, contributing to its nickname as "Rossano the
Byzantine" due to its elevated, fortress-like position.
Topography and Landforms
Rossano's topography is characterized by
a dramatic contrast between mountainous interiors and flat coastal
plains. The town is perched on an eminence—a rocky hill—formed by
the foothills of the Sila Greca (Greek Sila), part of the larger
Sila plateau, which is a vast, forested upland area in Calabria.
This spur descends eastward toward the Sibari Plain (Piana di
Sibari), a fertile alluvial lowland that stretches along the Ionian
coast and is known for its agricultural productivity, including
olive groves, citrus orchards, and vineyards. The Sila mountains,
rising to the west, are rugged and covered in dense pine forests,
with elevations exceeding 1,000 meters in nearby areas, creating a
natural barrier that influences local weather patterns.
To the
east, the landscape flattens into sandy beaches and coastal dunes
along the Gulf of Taranto, offering white sandy shorelines that are
part of Calabria's extensive Ionian coastline. The area features
diverse ecosystems, including monumental trees (such as ancient
olive trees), orchards, and scattered quarries for marble and
alabaster, which have been exploited since ancient times. Rivers and
streams, such as those draining from the Sila, carve through the
terrain, contributing to fertile valleys but also posing occasional
flood risks in the plains.
Climate and Environmental Context
Rossano experiences a Mediterranean climate, typical of coastal
Calabria, with hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters. The proximity
to the Sila mountains moderates temperatures, providing cooler air
masses that can lead to orographic rainfall, while the Ionian Sea
influences humidity and occasional sea breezes. Average annual
precipitation is higher in the hilly areas due to the mountain
influence, supporting lush vegetation like olive trees and
Mediterranean maquis shrubland.
The region is part of broader
protected areas, including the nearby Sila National Park to the
west, which encompasses ancient forests, lakes, and biodiversity
hotspots, and the Pollino National Park further north. These parks
offer opportunities for outdoor activities such as hiking, biking,
and trekking, highlighting the area's ecological diversity from
alpine-like highlands to subtropical coastlines. Environmental
challenges include erosion on the hilly spurs and coastal
management, but the varied terrain supports sustainable tourism and
agriculture.
Regional Context within Calabria
Calabria
itself is a mountainous region forming the southern tip of the
Italian peninsula, bordered by the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west and
the Ionian Sea to the east, with the Strait of Messina separating it
from Sicily. Rossano lies in the northeastern part of the province
of Cosenza, the northernmost province in Calabria, near the border
with Basilicata. This positioning integrates it into the broader
Calabrian landscape, where 90% of the terrain is hilly or
mountainous, and the remaining 10% consists of plains like Sibari.
The merger with Corigliano in 2018 created one of Calabria's largest
municipalities, enhancing its role in regional geography as a bridge
between inland highlands and coastal economies.