Subiaco is an Italian town of 8 778 inhabitants in the metropolitan city of Rome Capital in Lazio. The territory is varied with mountainous areas and lowland areas. It is crossed by the Aniene and affects some peaks of the Simbruini Mountains (Monte Calvo, 1,591 m and Monte Livata, 1,429 m). It includes a vast beech forest on a plateau that extends over an area of 3000 hectares included in the Monti Simbruini regional natural park.
Religious architectures
Monastery of Santa
Scolastica. It includes a Gothic church (which has the dignity of a
minor basilica) with a Romanesque bell tower and was transformed in
1771-1776 by the architect Giacomo Quarenghi in neoclassical forms.
The monastery is built around three cloisters:
Cosmatesque
cloister (XII and XIII centuries);
Gothic cloister (14th and 15th
centuries);
late Renaissance cloister (late 16th century).
Monastery of San Benedetto, or "del Sacro Speco", built near a rock
wall. Consisting of a complex of rooms, churches and chapels,
sometimes carved out of the rock, it preserves fresco decorations
from various eras and a portrait of St. Francis (1223).
Church of
San Francesco, from 1327, with wooden altars and valuable paintings
from the 15th and 16th centuries;
Church of Sant'Andrea, built to
a design by Pietro Camporese in neoclassical forms, devastated by
bombs in the Second World War and restored by Florestano Di Fausto,
with 6 bells: the "campanone", a si2 cast in 1760, the second bell,
re3 fixed (inside the church), the third, a F3 (flat), the fourth, a
B3 that looks like a C4 (flat) and the last 2 bells, E4 and F4
(fixed), all 2 ancient.
Church of Santa Maria della Valle. Together with the cathedral of
Santa Scolastica and the palace of Pope Pius VI, it forms a
neoclassical architectural complex. It has 4 bells: the big bell, an
F # 3, the second, a sib3, the third, a D4 and the small one, an E4.
Civil architectures
Abbey fortress, medieval, but largely
transformed between the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries);
Archaeological sites
Archaeological area of the villa of Nero
Natural areas
Simbruini Mountains
Monti Simbruini Regional
Natural Park
Mount Livata
The Legend of Subiaco's Founding by Nero's Slaves
One of the
oldest folk legends attributes the town's origins to the enslaved
workers who constructed Nero's opulent villa around 54–68 AD. According
to local lore, these slaves—many of whom were early Christians—escaped
or were freed after the villa's completion and settled in the area,
forming the nucleus of what became Subiaco. The villa, built on a hill
overlooking the artificial lakes (now ruins), was a symbol of imperial
excess, complete with dams that flooded the valley for Nero's pleasure.
Folk tradition holds that the slaves, drawn from across the Roman
Empire, included Christians who secretly practiced their faith, leading
to the establishment of early underground Christian vaults or catacombs
in nearby areas like Saint Lucia and Suriva. Archaeological evidence
supports human presence in the region since prehistoric times, but the
legend romanticizes the transition from pagan Roman luxury to Christian
humility. By the 4th century, small Christian communities are
documented, including a church dedicated to San Lorenzo, which some
traditions claim was the site's original "Sublaco" village. This myth
underscores themes of liberation and divine providence, portraying
Subiaco as a haven born from oppression.
Legends of Saint
Benedict's Arrival and Hermitage
The most enduring legends revolve
around Saint Benedict, who arrived in Subiaco around 497–500 AD as a
young man fleeing the moral decay of Rome. Disillusioned with urban
life, Benedict sought solitude in a remote cave on Mount Taleo, now
enshrined within the Monastery of San Benedetto (Sacro Speco, or "Holy
Cave"). Local folklore describes how Benedict, then about 20 years old,
was guided to the cave by divine inspiration and sustained there for
three years through miraculous means.
The Provision by Romanus:
Benedict's survival in the harsh, forested cave is attributed to the
monk Romanus from a nearby monastery, who lowered food in a basket tied
to a rope. Shepherds initially mistook Benedict for a wild animal due to
his ragged appearance and long hair, but he preached to them from the
"Grotto of the Shepherds," converting many to a holy life. This legend
emphasizes themes of isolation and divine sustenance, with the cave
becoming a symbol of spiritual rebirth. Today, the site features a "Holy
Staircase" said to be the path Benedict used, and the surrounding "Holy
Wood" forest is part of pilgrimage routes.
The Temptation and the
Thorn Bush: During his hermitage, Benedict faced intense temptations
from the devil, who appeared in various forms to lure him back to
worldly pleasures. In one vivid legend, the devil sent a vision of a
beautiful woman (or, in some versions, actual prostitutes dispatched by
a jealous priest named Florentius). To resist, Benedict threw himself
into a thicket of thorns and nettles, mortifying his flesh until the
temptation subsided. Centuries later, around 1223–1224 AD, Saint Francis
of Assisi is said to have visited the site and planted a rose garden
there as a memorial, transforming the thorns into blooming roses—a
symbol of redemption over sin. This story is depicted in frescoes at the
Sacro Speco and highlights Benedict's ascetic discipline, which
influenced his famous Rule ("Ora et labora" – pray and work).
Miracles Attributed to Saint Benedict in Subiaco
Benedict's time in
Subiaco (c. 500–529 AD) saw him found 12 monasteries in the valley, each
with 12 monks, drawn from local shepherds and Roman nobility. These
foundations were accompanied by legends of miracles, illustrating his
sanctity and drawing pilgrims. Only the Monastery of Santa Scolastica
survives intact, but the tales persist.
The Miracle of the
Miraculous Spring: When monks at one of the new monasteries complained
of water scarcity (the site was high on a rocky hill), Benedict prayed
fervently. A clear spring burst forth from the rock, providing abundant
water. This legend, set near the Sacro Speco, symbolizes divine
provision and is commemorated at the Laghetti di San Benedetto (small
natural pools formed by the Aniene's waterfalls).
The Poisoned Bread
and the Raven: Jealous of Benedict's growing influence, the priest
Florentius attempted to poison him with tainted bread. As Benedict
blessed the loaf, a raven (or crow) swooped down, seized it, and flew
away, saving his life. In some variants, a similar attempt with poisoned
wine shattered the cup during Benedict's prayer. This tale reflects
themes of envy and protection, with Florentius's schemes ultimately
leading Benedict to leave Subiaco for Monte Cassino around 529 AD.
The Miracle of the Goth and the Axe: A Gothic monk (from the invading
tribes) dropped his axe head into a lake while chopping wood. Benedict
placed the handle on the water, and the iron head miraculously floated
up to reattach itself. This story, akin to biblical miracles like
Elisha's floating axe (2 Kings 6), highlights Benedict's command over
nature and is depicted in 13th-century frescoes at the Sacro Speco.
The Rescue of Placidus (Walking on Water): When a young monk named
Placidus fell into a lake and began drowning, Benedict sent Maurus to
save him. Maurus ran across the water's surface as if on dry land,
pulling Placidus to safety—attributing the feat to Benedict's blessing.
This legend, possibly occurring near Subiaco's lakes, echoes Christ's
miracle and is part of the Golden Legend compilation.
These
miracles, while rooted in Gregory's hagiography, were embellished in
local oral traditions, emphasizing Benedict's role in taming the wild
valley and converting pagans.
Other Local Legends and Folklore
Piazza di Pietra Sprecata (Square of the Wasted Stone): In Subiaco's
historic center, this small square features a central stone tied to a
whimsical legend. The name "Pietra Sprecata" (Wasted Stone) stems from a
tale that the stone was quarried and prepared for use in the
construction of St. Peter's Basilica in Rome during the Renaissance but
was discarded as unsuitable or too small. Miraculously (or through
oversight), it ended up in Subiaco, "wasted" in a humble square instead
of a grand cathedral. This story, likely apocryphal, reflects local
pride and a touch of irony about Rome's dominance over smaller towns.
Subiaco is a historic town and comune in the Metropolitan City of
Rome Capital, within the Lazio region of central Italy. It is situated
approximately 73 kilometers (45 miles) east of Rome, about 40 kilometers
(25 miles) northeast of Tivoli, and lies at the head of the upper Aniene
Valley. The town's geographic coordinates are roughly 41°56′N 13°06′E,
placing it in a transitional zone between the Apennine Mountains and the
Roman Campagna plains. Covering a total area of 63.23 square kilometers
(24.41 square miles), Subiaco has a population of around 8,500
inhabitants and serves as an agricultural hub with associated industries
like paper mills and stone quarries.
The name "Subiaco" derives from
the Latin "Sublaqueum," meaning "below the lakes," referring to three
artificial lakes created for Emperor Nero's villa in ancient times.
These lakes were destroyed by flooding in 1305, leaving only traces, but
they highlight the area's historical interplay between human engineering
and natural water features. Geographically, Subiaco is nestled in a
picturesque valley, making it a gateway to outdoor activities and a site
of religious significance due to its monasteries.
Topography and
Landscape
Subiaco is perched on a conical hill at an elevation of
about 410 meters (1,345 feet) above sea level, with the surrounding
terrain averaging around 815 meters. The town is built in a medieval
layout with narrow, winding streets and small squares, climbing the
slopes of this hill and dominated by landmarks like the Rocca Abbaziale
fortress at its peak. This hilly setting is part of a broader
mountainous gorge in the Roman Campagna, characterized by rugged
ravines, steep slopes, and layered ridges that extend into the
Apennines.
The landscape features a mix of densely built stone
structures in the historic core, transitioning to greener outskirts with
forests, meadows, and scattered modern buildings. Surrounding hills and
mountains provide a natural barrier, creating a sheltered valley
environment. The area is visually striking, with terracotta-roofed
houses cascading down hillsides amid lush greenery and distant peaks.
Geologically, the region around Subiaco includes Triassic rocks (often
violet-hued in maps), Jurassic carbonates (blue tones), and Cretaceous
to Miocene formations (green and yellow shades), reflecting a history of
sedimentary deposition and tectonic activity typical of the Apennines.
This contributes to the area's quarries and diverse soil types,
supporting agriculture and viticulture.
Hydrography
The Aniene
River (historically known as the Anio) is central to Subiaco's
geography, flowing through the town and carving the valley. This
tributary of the Tiber rushes through a ravine with cold, clear waters,
providing a vital water source and scenic element. The river's path
includes cascades and is crossed by notable structures like the medieval
Ponte di San Francesco, a fortified bridge with a 37-meter span.
Historically, the river powered mills and supported Nero's lakes,
underscoring its role in shaping the landscape through erosion and human
use.
The Aniene also enables recreational pursuits such as rafting
and canyoning in the surrounding park, while its valley fosters a
microclimate with higher humidity and cooler temperatures compared to
the nearby plains. No major lakes remain today, but the river's
tributaries and springs contribute to the area's hydrological network.
Climate
Subiaco experiences a Mediterranean climate with Apennine
influences due to its elevation and mountainous enclosure. Summers are
warm and dry, with average highs around 25-30°C (77-86°F), while winters
are cooler and wetter, occasionally seeing snow at higher elevations
like Monte Livata. The valley's position moderates extremes, with the
Aniene River adding moisture and the surrounding mountains blocking some
winds. Annual rainfall is moderate, around 800-1,000 mm, concentrated in
fall and winter, supporting lush vegetation and agriculture.
Surrounding Areas and Natural Parks
Subiaco is enveloped by the Monti
Simbruini Regional Park, a protected area spanning over 29,000 hectares
of forests, meadows, and karst landscapes. This park offers extensive
trails for hiking and horseback riding along ancient paths, as well as
speleological sites and winter sports facilities. The mountains provide
habitat for diverse flora (beech, oak, and pine forests) and fauna
(including wolves, deer, and birds of prey), making Subiaco a base for
ecotourism.
The town's location in the Aniene Valley connects it to
broader regional features, such as the Simbruini chain's peaks reaching
over 2,000 meters, and proximity to other valleys and plateaus. This
setting isolates Subiaco somewhat, enhancing its preserved medieval
character while linking it ecologically to the Tiber basin.
The history of Subiaco, a town in the Lazio region of central Italy
nestled along the Aniene River in the Monti Simbruini Regional Natural
Park, dates back to ancient times. The earliest known settlers were the
Aequi, an Italic people who inhabited the area. In 304 BC, they were
conquered by the Romans, who integrated the region into their empire,
exploiting the natural resources, particularly the waters of the Aniene
River for infrastructure and agriculture. The town's name, Subiaco,
derives from the Latin "Sublaqueum," meaning "under the lake," referring
to the three artificial lakes created by Emperor Nero around 60 AD as
part of his luxurious villa complex. These lakes were formed by
constructing dams on the Aniene, with the largest dam being the tallest
in the world at the time, standing at approximately 40 meters high. The
villa served as a summer retreat for Nero, and local legends suggest
that the initial settlement may have housed slaves and engineers
involved in its construction. Traces of this villa, including ruins of
the dams and some structural remnants, can still be seen today, though
the lakes were destroyed by flooding in 1305. After the fall of the
Western Roman Empire in the 5th century, the area fell into decline,
with the villa and surrounding settlements largely abandoned and reduced
to ruins.
Early Christian and Medieval Period: The Rise of
Benedictine Monasticism
Subiaco's revival and enduring significance
began in the late 5th century with the arrival of St. Benedict of
Nursia. Around 494 AD, at the age of about 14, Benedict retreated as a
hermit to a cave known as the Sacro Speco ("Holy Grotto") above the
Aniene River, seeking solitude from the world. For three years, he lived
there, sustained by food provided by a monk named Romanus from a nearby
monastery. This period of isolation was pivotal, as it laid the
conceptual foundation for the Benedictine Order, emphasizing prayer,
work, and community ("Ora et Labora"). From this base, Benedict founded
12 monasteries in the surrounding area, each housing 12 monks, to spread
his monastic rule before departing for Montecassino around 529 AD. One
of these early foundations evolved into the Monastery of San Benedetto,
built around the Sacro Speco cave, which features 9th-century frescoes
in the Grotta dei Pastori ("Grotto of the Shepherds"), 13th-century
frescoes in the lower church depicting Benedict's life, and
13th-14th-century Sienese school paintings in the upper church
illustrating scenes from Christ's life.
In 520 AD, Benedict also
established the Abbey of Santa Scolastica, named after his twin sister
St. Scholastica, about 1.5 miles below the grotto. Initially dedicated
to Saints Cosmas and Damian, it was endowed by Roman patricians
Tertullus and Æquitius. The abbey faced repeated destructions: by
Lombards in 601 AD, Saracens in 840 AD, and Hungarians in 981 AD, but
was rebuilt each time. After the 981 reconstruction, it was rededicated
to St. Scholastica and consecrated by Pope Benedict VII. The structure
features three cloisters in Renaissance, Gothic, and Cosmatesque styles,
reflecting its architectural evolution.
The medieval town of Subiaco
developed around these monastic sites, preserving its fortified layout.
In 854 AD, Pope Leo IV renovated the Sacro Speco and consecrated altars
there. Popes like Leo IX (1052) and Gregory VII visited to resolve
disputes and enforce reforms. By 1073, the Rocca Abbaziale (Abbot's
Fortress) was constructed as a defensive structure, later remodeled in
the 16th and 17th centuries, dominating the town's skyline and serving
as a residence for commendatory abbots.
Internal monastic strife
emerged by the 14th century, leading Pope Clement VI in 1364 to replace
quarrelsome monks with others, including many Germans, fostering a
period of cultural and artistic flourishing. However, in 1378-1389, Pope
Urban VI reformed the abbey's governance, abolishing lifetime abbots and
placing it under Curia control.
Renaissance and the Birth of
Printing in Italy
The 15th century marked a cultural milestone for
Subiaco. In 1455, Pope Callixtus III assigned the abbey "in commendam"
to cardinals, beginning with Juan de Torquemada and followed by Roderigo
Borgia (later Pope Alexander VI), who renovated the Rocca Abbaziale into
a luxurious residence. While some commendatory abbots mismanaged
resources, others like Pompeo Colonna (from 1506) were reformed by Pope
Julius II in 1510.
A groundbreaking development occurred in 1464-1465
when German monks Arnold Pannartz and Konrad Sweynheim established
Italy's first printing press at the Abbey of Santa Scolastica. They
produced the earliest printed books in the country, including an edition
of Donatus (1465), Cicero's De Oratore (September 1465), Lactantius's De
divinis institutionibus (October 1465), and St. Augustine's De civitate
Dei (1467). This innovation made Subiaco a pioneer in European printing,
predating Venice's presses. In 1514, Subiaco joined the Congregation of
Santa Justina, though tensions persisted between Italian and German
monks.
Early Modern to 19th Century: Papal Influence and
Turbulence
The town benefited from papal patronage, notably under
Pope Pius VI (commendatory abbot as cardinal), who contributed to
neoclassical churches like Sant'Andrea and Santa Maria della Valle,
preserving Subiaco's medieval charm. However, the Napoleonic era brought
hardship: French troops plundered the monasteries in 1798-1799 and
1810-1814. In the mid-19th century, the abbey joined the Cassinese
Congregation in 1872 under Pope Pius IX. On June 19, 1873, the Italian
government sequestrated monastic properties, declaring the abbey a
national monument and allowing monks to remain as custodians. During the
Risorgimento, Giuseppe Garibaldi's forces occupied Subiaco in 1849 and
1867, and in 1870, it became part of the unified Kingdom of Italy.
20th Century to Present: Modern Development and Cultural Heritage
The early 20th century saw infrastructure advancements, including a
railway connection, hydroelectric plant, aqueduct, and hospital. In
1909, Pope Pius X granted a plenary indulgence for pilgrims to the Sacro
Speco and restored monastic elections, with Lawrence Salvi elected as
abbot. During World War II, Allied bombings damaged the town.
Today,
Subiaco is a tourist and religious destination, recognized as one of "I
Borghi più belli d'Italia" (The Most Beautiful Villages of Italy) and
awarded the Orange Flag for environmental tourism. With a population of
around 8,500, it thrives on agriculture, paper mills, and stone
quarries, while attracting visitors to its monasteries, the Museum of
Paper and Printing Activities (MACS) in the Rocca Abbaziale, and outdoor
activities in the surrounding park. Notable figures from Subiaco include
actress Gina Lollobrigida (1927–2023) and footballer Francesco Graziani
(born 1952). The abbey's library preserves ancient manuscripts,
underscoring its ongoing role as a center of Benedictine scholarship and
pilgrimage.