Gulbene is a city in the northeast of Vidzeme, the center of Gulbene region, 186 km from Riga. The city is located on the banks of Krustalīce and its tributaries Asarupe. The highways P27, P35, P36, P37 and Pļaviņas-Gulbene railway intersect here, which continues as Gulbene-Alūksne railway.
Gulbene Aluksne Narrow Gauge Railway (Banitis)
The Gulbene-Aluksne
Narrow Gauge Railway, affectionately known as "Banitis," is one of
Gulbene's most iconic attractions, offering a nostalgic journey through
Latvia's rural landscapes. Established in 1903, this 33 km-long
narrow-gauge line (750 mm) is the last operational public narrow-gauge
railway in the Baltics, originally built for freight and passenger
transport but now primarily a tourist draw. It runs between Gulbene and
Aluksne, with regular diesel locomotive services twice daily and special
steam excursions on weekends or holidays, complete with vintage
carriages and occasional themed events like music performances or guided
tours. Key features include hand-driven trolleys for interactive
experiences, overnight stays in refurbished train wagons or depot rooms,
and a small museum at the Gulbene station showcasing historical
artifacts and exhibits on railway engineering. The ride traverses
forests, lakes, and quaint villages, providing scenic views and
opportunities for birdwatching or picnics. Visitors often praise its
family-friendly appeal, with group trips featuring surprises like
onboard entertainment. Tickets are affordable (around €5-10), and it's
recommended to book in advance for steam rides, especially in summer
when the route blooms with wildflowers. The railway symbolizes Gulbene's
industrial heritage, once vital for timber transport, and now preserved
as a cultural monument.
Gulbene White Palace (Vecgulbene Manor)
The Gulbene White Palace, part of the Vecgulbene Manor estate, stands as
a testament to 18th-century aristocratic architecture in the heart of
Gulbene. Built in 1763 by Baron Otto Hermann von Vietinghoff, this
neoclassical building features elegant white facades, ornate interiors
with period furniture, and expansive parks that were redesigned in the
19th century. The palace played a central role in the town's
development, serving as a residence for nobility and later as
administrative offices during Soviet times before restoration in the
post-independence era. Today, it houses exhibitions on local history,
art galleries with rotating displays, and event spaces for concerts or
weddings. The surrounding Vecgulbene Manor Park spans several hectares,
with walking paths, ponds, ancient trees, and sculptures, ideal for
leisurely strolls or photography. Visitors can explore the orangery
(greenhouse) turned museum, featuring antique tools and botanical
displays. Rated highly for its serene atmosphere, it's free to enter the
grounds, though guided tours (about €3) offer insights into the von
Wolff family legacy. Best visited in spring for blooming gardens or
autumn for colorful foliage.
Stāmeriena Palace
Stāmeriena
Palace, located about 15 km from Gulbene, is a romantic neo-Gothic
masterpiece dating back to 1835, rebuilt after a 1905 fire in a more
elaborate style. Owned by the von Wolff family, it gained fame through
Italian writer Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa, who stayed here in the
1920s and drew inspiration for his novel "The Leopard." The palace
features turreted towers, intricate stonework, and interiors with
frescoes, chandeliers, and a grand ballroom. Surrounded by a landscaped
park with lakes, bridges, and walking trails, it's a hub for cultural
events like theater performances and festivals. Restoration efforts have
preserved its historical charm, and it now includes a small museum on
the writer's connection. Entry fees are modest (€2-4), with guided tours
revealing ghost stories and aristocratic anecdotes. The site offers a
romantic atmosphere, especially at sunset, and is popular for weddings
or photography sessions.
Ranka Manor
Ranka Manor, situated 10
km from Gulbene, is a beautifully preserved 18th-century estate known
for its baroque architecture and cultural vibrancy. Built in 1760, it
features elegant halls, antique furnishings, and a collection of
artworks and artifacts from the von Löwenstern family era. The manor
hosts music concerts, church services in its chapel, and exhibitions,
with a restaurant serving traditional Latvian cuisine using local
ingredients. The surrounding park includes manicured gardens, ponds, and
walking paths, perfect for picnics. Rated 5/5 by visitors for its
romantic ambiance, it's open weekends (check schedules), with guestrooms
for overnight stays starting at €50. Ideal for history buffs or those
seeking a peaceful retreat, with tips to visit during events for live
performances.
Gulbene Municipality History and Art Museum
Housed in the Vecgulbene Manor's former orangery, this museum provides a
deep dive into Gulbene's regional history and artistic heritage.
Established in the 1990s, it features permanent exhibits on local
archaeology, ethnography, and the von Wolff family's influence,
including period furniture, tools, and photographs from the 19th-20th
centuries. Rotating art shows highlight contemporary Latvian artists,
while the adjacent barn displays ancient agricultural implements. The
museum's park setting allows for combined visits with outdoor walks.
Entry is free or low-cost (€1-2), with interactive elements for
families. Visitors appreciate its educational value, recommending 1-2
hours to explore fully.
Central Park with the Fountain
Gulbene's Central Park is a vibrant urban oasis in the town center,
featuring a colorful fountain that illuminates at night to mimic a
bonfire. Developed in the early 20th century, it includes benches,
flowerbeds, and pathways for relaxation, with monthly green markets
selling local produce and crafts. The park hosts events like concerts
and festivals, making it a community hub. Rated 4.7/5, it's free and
accessible year-round, best in summer for outdoor activities or winter
for lighted displays.
Educational and Interactive Center Railway
and Steam
Located at Gulbene's train station, this center is a
hands-on museum dedicated to railway history and science. Opened in
recent years, it boasts over 30 interactive exhibits, including physics
experiments, model trains, and an escape room themed around steam
engines. It complements the Banitis railway, offering insights into
Latvia's transport evolution. Family-oriented with educational programs,
entry costs €3-5, and it's praised for engaging children through
play-based learning.
Kartene Watchtower and Nature Sites
The
20-meter Kartene Watchtower, 15 km from Gulbene, provides panoramic
views of North Vidzeme's hills, forests, and Lake Pinteelis. Built for
eco-tourism, it's free and accessible via trails, ideal for hiking or
birdwatching. Nearby, the Pededze River Promenade offers scenic walks
with a "Temple of Dreams" installation, while Sēravots spring in
Lejasciems is a natural site with folklore traditions of healing waters.
These spots highlight Gulbene's natural beauty, with tips to bring
binoculars and visit in clear weather.
Religious Sites
Gulbene
boasts several historic churches, including the Velena Evangelic
Lutheran Church (22 km away), a rare unreconstructed wooden structure
from the 17th century. The Galgauska St. John’s Orthodox Church, built
mid-19th century and abandoned since the 1980s, offers eerie
exploration. The Gulbenes Catholic Church provides a serene interior for
reflection. These sites reflect the region's multi-denominational
history, with free entry and occasional services.
Other Notable
Sights
Youth Park with Swans: A central playground with swan
sculptures and a fountain, symbolizing Gulbene's emblem, great for
families.
Druviena Manor: An 1898 castle with preserved outbuildings,
showcasing rural estate life.
Garden of Bottles: A quirky art
installation near Gulbene, made from recycled bottles, adding a modern
creative twist.
Struve Meridian Arc Ramkau: A UNESCO site marking a
19th-century geodetic measurement point, for science enthusiasts.
Lake Kalna: A peaceful lake with boardwalks and piers, suitable for
fishing or relaxation.
Gulbene, a town in northeastern Latvia's Vidzeme region, serves as
the administrative center of Gulbene Municipality. Historically known as
Schwanenburg in German, its Latvian name derives from "gulbus," meaning
swan, which is symbolized in the town's coat of arms and featured in
local parks like Gulbišu Parks. With a population of around 6,722 as of
2025, Gulbene has evolved from a medieval settlement around a stone
castle to a key railway junction and industrial hub during the Soviet
era. Its history spans ancient Latgalian hill forts, Livonian Order
influences, 19th-century manor developments under Baltic German
nobility, interwar independence, wartime destruction, and post-Soviet
restoration. Key themes include architectural heritage (castles and
palaces), railway expansion, and cultural preservation, with the town
now emphasizing eco-tourism and environmental sustainability. Gulbene's
development reflects broader Latvian historical shifts, from feudal
estates to modern municipal governance.
Early History (13th–18th
Centuries)
Gulbene's origins trace back to medieval times, rooted in
territorial divisions and fortifications in the Vidzeme region. The area
was first documented in 1224 as part of a land division act between the
Order of the Sword Brothers (a precursor to the Livonian Order) and the
Archbishop of Riga. This marked the beginning of organized settlement in
what was then a Latgalian hill fort area. By 1340, the Archbishop of
Riga constructed a stone castle on the site of the ancient Latgalian
mound, which served as a defensive stronghold and catalyzed the
formation of a populated village around it. This castle, now in ruins,
laid the foundation for Gulbene's growth as a strategic point in the
Livonian Confederation.
During the 16th–18th centuries, under
Polish-Lithuanian and later Swedish and Russian rule, the region saw
sporadic development. The castle mound remained a focal point, but the
area was primarily rural, with small-scale agriculture and trade. By the
late 18th century, the site transitioned from military to ecclesiastical
use, setting the stage for 19th-century expansions.
19th Century:
Manor Estates and Architectural Flourishing
The 19th century marked a
period of significant transformation under Russian Empire rule, driven
by Baltic German nobility. In 1802, the Vecgulbene (Old Gulbene) estate
was acquired by the Baron von Wolff family, who owned it until 1920.
This family spearheaded the construction of an impressive manor complex,
turning Gulbene into a center of aristocratic life. Key developments
included:
The White Palace (built in 1763 and restored in
neo-Renaissance style by the von Wolffs), which suffered a major fire in
1904 and was partially rebuilt.
The Red Palace (constructed in the
late 19th century by Heinrich von Wolff as a romantic gesture for his
wife Marissa), featuring ornate designs and later serving educational
purposes.
The magazine granary and other outbuildings, contributing
to the estate's economic self-sufficiency.
Between 1838 and 1843,
the Evangelical Lutheran Church was erected on the ancient castle mound
in classical style, replacing the medieval brick castle. This era also
saw agricultural advancements and the beginnings of industrialization.
However, the 1905 Revolution brought turmoil, with manors in Gulbene and
Vecgulbene damaged by uprisings, including the burning of the Red
Palace.
Early 20th Century: Railway Expansion and Independence
The turn of the century brought infrastructural growth, particularly in
transportation. In 1903, the narrow-gauge railway from Stukmani to Valka
was built, establishing Gulbene as a railway hub. During World War I,
broad-gauge lines were added, enhancing connectivity. Post-war, in 1920,
Vecgulbene gained village rights, followed by the construction of the
grand Gulbene railway station in 1926 by architect Pēteris Feders—one of
Latvia's most magnificent stations.
Latvia's first independence
period (1918–1940) saw Gulbene granted town rights in 1928. Economic
focus shifted to railways, small businesses, crafts, and trades.
Cultural milestones included the 1929 unveiling of a monument to heroes
of the Latvian War of Independence and a 1938 army parade attended by
President Kārlis Ulmanis. The von Wolff estates were nationalized in
1920, with the Red Palace becoming an elementary school in 1924.
World War II and Soviet Era (1940–1991)
World War II devastated
Gulbene, with heavy damage in the war's final years under German and
Soviet occupations. Post-war, under Soviet rule, Gulbene became a
district center, evolving into a regional hub in 1950. The 1960s and
1970s brought industrialization, with branches of Riga factories
established, focusing on wood processing and making the Gulbene
Locomotive and Wagon Depot one of Latvia's largest (1930–1980). This
period saw population growth, peaking in the late Soviet era, but also
cultural suppression.
A tragic event occurred on February 22, 1999,
when a massacre at a local school killed three children and a staff
member, injuring another; the perpetrator, Alexander Koryakov, was
sentenced to life imprisonment, highlighting ethnic tensions as all
victims were Russian speakers.
Post-Independence Era
(1991–Present)
Following Latvia's regained independence in 1991,
Gulbene adapted to a market economy, with declines in heavy industry but
emphasis on sustainability. By 2004, parts of the Red Palace housed
administrative offices, and large-scale restorations transformed the
White Castle area. The Gulbene History and Art Museum, in the old
Orangery, preserves artifacts like a chair by Julius Madernieks, founder
of Latvian applied art.
Today, Gulbene promotes eco-tourism, with
rivers like Gauja and Tirza for water sports, cycling paths, and
historical sites like the railway museum (in the Russian-era station).
The municipality, formed in 2009, includes 13 rural parishes. Population
has declined from 3,819 in 1935 to 7,040 in 2021, reflecting rural-urban
shifts. Cultural institutions like the museum and newspaper Dzirkstele
maintain heritage, while sports teams like Gulbenes Buki add vibrancy.