Jūrmala

 

Jurmala is located in Latvia. Jurmala is the largest resort city in Latvia, located 25 km from Riga. Jurmala stretches twenty kilometers between the Gulf of Riga and the Lielupe River, and from the west it is adjoined by the Kemeru National Park. Formally, one city, Jurmala is a chain of districts, former summer cottages, which, in general, are completely independent, with their own railway stations, shops , cafes, restaurants and a selection of attractions. The most famous and resort areas of Jurmala are Bulduri, Dzintari, Majori, Dubulti, Pumpuri and Melluzi. Dzintari is considered an elite area; it houses the most famous concert hall, which hosts international festivals and performances by famous artists. The Majori area is famous for its cafes and restaurants on Jomas Street and its surroundings. The beaches of Jurmala are famous for their purest white quartz sand and stretch over a distance of more than 30 km. The beach area starts from the village of Bulduri - the oldest district in Jurmala.

 

Destinations

The central part of Jurmala is literally an Art Nouveau reserve - dozens of buildings, mostly detached villas, are protected by the state as cultural heritage monuments.

Pedestrian street in Jurmala - Jomas (Jomas iela).

Open Air Museum (Jūrmalas brīvdabas muzejs) (Bulluciems). A very small museum - a former fisherman's house, transferred to the state in 1970 - is located in a pine forest near the village of Bulluciems on the eastern edge of Jurmala, near the mouth of the Lielupe. You can see the house with all the furnishings, several outbuildings, also furnished, and various items related to navigation or fishing, for example, nets, anchors or propellers from motors. There is nothing outstanding here, and the museum is easy to see in half an hour or an hour, but it is located in a rather pleasant and little-visited place. From here, about three hundred meters along the path through the forest to the sea coast (and this coast is far from the main Jurmala, and there are much fewer people here), and about the same in the other direction to the Lielupe River. It is impossible to walk to the mouth of the Lielupe along the river, first you have to go to the sea, and then walk along the beach to the east. Bulluciems is located three to four kilometers east of Lielupe and Bulduri stations, it is better to go either by your own car or by bus from Bulduri station.

 

How to get here

By train
From the Riga railway station, from platform 3, an electric train leaves every 30 minutes to Jurmala (direction Tukums or Sloka). Ticket price - 1.40 euros (2015) one way. The timetable does not include the name of the Jurmala station, you must take a ticket to the station or Dzintari, or Majori (the central railway station in Jurmala). The conductors check tickets directly in the carriage immediately after departure. It is possible to buy a ticket from the conductor, but it will cost 50% more.

By car
There is a fee of 2 euros per day for entering Jurmala. If you are coming from Riga, the payment station is located in front of the bridge over the Lielupe River. Technically, you can drive through it and enter the city without paying. In this case, you will most likely be fined. The main road from Riga to Tukums does not enter the main part of Jurmala, and turns in front of the bridge and remains on the right bank of the Lielupe.

 

History

Prehistoric and Early Settlement
Human presence in the Jūrmala area dates to prehistoric times, with archaeological evidence of fishing settlements along the Baltic coast and rivers like the Lielupe. The region's dunes, sea, and waterways supported small communities reliant on Baltic herring, flounder, ide, bream, vimba bream, pike, and European eel. These early inhabitants lived in modest fishermen's houses, with livelihoods tied to seasonal fishing, weather, and migrations. By the medieval and early modern periods, scattered villages such as Dubulti, Majori, and Ķemeri formed, blending fishing with limited agriculture in the sandy, forested landscape.

18th Century: Origins as a Resort
Jūrmala's transformation into a resort began in the late 18th century, aligning with European trends in seaside health tourism. Around the 1730s, the first bathing visitors arrived in Kaugurciems, attracted by therapeutic sea air and bathing, akin to developments in England and France. Wealthy landowners and Russian army officers, recovering from the Napoleonic Wars, popularized the area, often renting from local fishermen. The 1812 war shifted the nascent spa to Dubulti, closer to Riga. In Ķemeri, sulphur mineral springs—used informally by locals—gained attention; a 1818 chemical analysis confirmed benefits for joints, skin, and nerves, leading to initial treatments in oak tubs at a forester's home. In 1838, state funding from Baltic Governor-General von der Pahlen established Ķemeri as an official spa, marking Jūrmala's dual identity: beach resorts near Riga and mineral spas inland.

19th Century: Expansion and Architectural Boom
The 1830s saw rapid growth in Rīgas Jūrmala, with swimming establishments proliferating and the economy shifting toward tourism. The Dīveļa Hotel (later Duevel) opened in Dubulti in 1834 as a social center, followed by the first spa house in 1847. Visitors formed societies for beach maintenance, concerts, and medical services. Wooden architecture dominated, featuring Neo-Classical, Art Nouveau, and National Romantic styles by Baltic German, Latvian, Russian, Finnish, and other architects. Over 4,000 wooden structures, including 414 protected historical buildings, lined tree-shaded streets, creating Jūrmala's iconic look.

The 1877 Riga-Tukums railway dramatically increased accessibility, with stations in each village boosting visitor numbers from the Russian Empire. Population grew from 2,000 in 1897 to 11,000 by 1925. Beaches had segregated bathing until the 1890s, when Jūrmala pioneered mixed swimming in the Empire. Ķemeri expanded with sulphur and mud baths, a park, and a tram to Jaunķemeri beach. Cultural life included concerts in Dubulti (1840s) and Majori (1870s), with symphonies at Horn’s Concert Garden and the Edinburgh Spa House (later Dzintari Concert Hall) from 1897.

Early 20th Century: Independence and Golden Era
After Latvia's 1918 independence, Jūrmala became the nation's flagship resort, rebranded as the "Baltische Riviera." In 1920, Rīgas Jūrmala gained town status, with place names Latvianized (e.g., Edinburgh to Dzintari). Ķemeri rebuilt after World War I destruction, with the grand spa hotel opening in 1936 under President Kārlis Ulmanis, designed by Eižens Laube. The Dzintari Concert Hall, completed in 1936, hosted summer events. Fishing continued via the Fishermen’s Society, later a Soviet kolkhoz. Population reached 13,000 by 1935, 86% Latvian. A Jewish community formed in the late 19th century in Bulduri, Dubulti, and Majori, organizing in 1904 with synagogues built from 1906; the main one expanded in 1938.

World War II and Soviet Era (1940–1991)
Soviet occupation in 1940 nationalized properties, demolishing some for concrete sanatoriums. World War II devastated Ķemeri and saw atrocities: the Bulduri synagogue burned in 1941 by Latvian collaborators, killing occupants. Jūrmala became a Riga district in 1946, expanded in 1949, and merged with Sloka and Ķemeri in 1959 to form the City of Jūrmala. Post-war, it became a elite Soviet resort for officials like Brezhnev and Khrushchev, with dachas and year-round sanatoriums offering mud baths and therapies. By 1980, 260,000 visitors annually; the Riga-Jūrmala train reopened with Soviet-style stations. Population grew to 61,000 by 1989, with Latvians at 44% and Russians at 42% due to immigration. Festivals like Jūrmala pop music (1986–1993) emerged. Structures like Jūras Perle restaurant exemplified Soviet modernism (demolished post-independence).

Post-Independence (1991–2020)
Latvia's 1991 independence privatized assets, shifting to capitalism. Eastern tourism dipped initially but recovered via nostalgia and events like New Wave festival (2001–2014, relocated due to Russian sanctions). EU accession in 2004 enabled Russian investments for residency, booming construction and prices. Jūrmala became a Riga suburb for the affluent; population stabilized at 56,000 by 2011, Latvians at 50%. Ķemeri National Park established in 1997 (381.65 km²) for forests and mires. Līvu Akvaparks opened in 2003 (300,000 visitors/year). Dzintari Forest Park added a 33.5m tower and courses. Jūrmala Open-Air Museum and Ragakāpa Nature Park preserved fishing heritage. Ķemeri Sanatorium privatized but reconstruction stalled. In 2009, Jūrmala became a republican city, reclassified as a state city in 2021. A new synagogue, Beit Israel, opened in Bulduri in 2018. Sports included Winter Swimming Championships (2012), European Beach Volleyball (2017), FK Spartaks titles (2016–2017), and Baltic Open tennis (2019). Festivals like Rendezvous (since 2015) replaced New Wave. Jūrmala International Piano Competition (biennial since 1994). Beaches earned Blue Flag certifications.

Recent Developments (2020–2025)
The COVID-19 pandemic disrupted tourism, but recovery began by 2021. Russia's 2022 invasion of Ukraine significantly impacted Jūrmala, as Russians formed a key market; entry restrictions and sanctions led to a sharp drop in visitors, affecting hotels and sanatoriums (some Russian-owned, with uncertain futures as of 2025). By 2024, foreign guests rose 14% year-over-year, with Jūrmala hosting 13% of Latvia's non-residents, diversifying to other markets. Ķemeri Resort Park renovated (20 hectares, 2023–2024) for historical ambiance. Real estate boomed in 2025 Q1, with high activity on the "golden mile." Entrance fee to rise to €5 in 2026. President emphasized business potential in 2025. 2025 events include a history conference (April), Aspazija theater festival (June), Jūrmala Festival (July), Laima Rendezvous (July), Ballet Stars (August), Poetry Days (September), and holiday celebrations, blending heritage with modern culture. As of 2025, Jūrmala emphasizes sustainable tourism, heritage preservation (e.g., villas like Rainis and Aspazija's), and events at Dzintari Concert Hall, maintaining its status in the European Spas Association.

 

Geography

Location

Jūrmala is a state city and resort town in the Vidzeme region of Latvia, situated approximately 25 kilometers west of the capital city, Riga. It stretches for about 32 kilometers along a narrow coastal strip, sandwiched between the Gulf of Riga to the north and the Lielupe River to the south, forming an elongated isthmus that acts as a natural barrier. The city's total area is 101.23 square kilometers, with 88.98 square kilometers being land. Its average elevation is around 6 meters above sea level, contributing to its flat, low-lying terrain. Jūrmala is composed of a series of interconnected neighborhoods and former fishing villages turned resorts, listed from west to east: Ķemeri, Jaunķemeri, Sloka, Kauguri, Vaivari, Asari, Melluži, Pumpuri, Jaundubulti, Dubulti, Majori, Dzintari, Bulduri, and Lielupe. This linear arrangement is bisected by the Riga-Tukums railway line, which has historically facilitated access and development. Geographically, Jūrmala's position on the Baltic Sea coast places it in a strategic spot for tourism, with easy road access from Riga (about 20-25 kilometers) and proximity to other Baltic capitals like Tallinn and Vilnius within a few hours' drive.

 

Topography

Jūrmala's topography is predominantly flat and coastal, characterized by a narrow, elongated landform that functions as a barrier between the open waters of the Gulf of Riga and the inland Lielupe River valley. The landscape features sandy plains, low dunes, and forested areas, with the terrain gently sloping from the dune-backed beaches toward the river. The coastal plain is relatively uniform, with minimal elevation changes, making it prone to influences from both marine and riverine processes. Offshore, the Gulf of Riga exhibits well-developed sandbars that parallel the shoreline, contributing to the stability of the beach system. Inland, the topography transitions into mires, swamps, and low-lying wetlands, particularly in the western parts near Ķemeri National Park. This flatness, combined with the city's linear extent, creates a unique urban geography where development is concentrated along the coast and railway, with natural reserves preserving much of the interior. Geologically, the area is shaped by post-glacial processes, with sandy deposits from ancient sea levels forming the basis of the beaches and dunes.

 

Climate

Jūrmala experiences a mild maritime climate, classified as oceanic (Köppen Cfb) with influences bordering on humid continental (Köppen Dfb), moderated by its proximity to the Baltic Sea. Winters are relatively mild, with average January high temperatures around 0°C (32°F) and lows at -4°C (24°F), while summers are warm but not extreme, with July highs averaging 23°C (74°F) and lows at 13°C (56°F). Precipitation is evenly distributed throughout the year, supporting the lush vegetation. Relative humidity is high, ranging from 70% in May to 89% in November and December, which enhances the therapeutic air quality when combined with pine forest emissions of phytoncides. The climate supports year-round activities: beaches and water sports in summer, when sea temperatures can reach comfortable levels for bathing, and winter pursuits like skiing on frozen river bends or spa treatments. Winds from the Baltic can create dynamic wave patterns, forming ripples and bars on the beach, while the area's low elevation makes it susceptible to occasional coastal flooding or erosion, though natural dunes provide some protection.

 

Natural Features

Beaches
Jūrmala's most prominent feature is its expansive beach system, stretching over 30-33 kilometers along the Gulf of Riga, composed of fine, white quartz or powdery golden sand. The beach averages 100 meters in width, with roughly 50 meters of dry sand and 50 meters of intertidal zone, backed by 10-meter-high dunes. The shallow coastal waters, which remain calm and safe for children, extend far offshore, making it ideal for family recreation. Sections like Majori and Bulduri hold Blue Flag certifications for their cleanliness, safety, and facilities, including playgrounds, sports courts, and accessible descents. Amber fragments are commonly found washed ashore in spring and autumn, adding to the beach's allure. Different areas cater to varied activities: Pumpuri for windsurfing, Dubulti and Dzintari for competitions, and quieter zones for relaxation. The beach's formation as a coastal barrier protects the inland river, and its natural state is preserved with minimal permanent structures, many seasonal to avoid erosion issues.

Rivers and Water Bodies
The Lielupe River, spanning 116 kilometers, defines Jūrmala's southern boundary and flows parallel to the coast before emptying into the Gulf of Riga. It supports diverse activities like canoeing, kayaking, waterskiing, fishing, and boat cruises, with species such as bream, pike, and eel historically abundant. The river's meandering bends freeze in winter for skiing, and its banks include bathing areas with rentals for watercraft. Underground mineral springs, including sulfurated, bromide, and sodium chloride waters, emerge in areas like Ķemeri, contributing to the region's spa heritage with therapeutic mud from adjacent lakes and rivers.

Forests and Parks
Forests cover about one-third of Jūrmala's area, dominated by pine groves that enhance air quality and provide recreational spaces. Dzintari Forest Park features 200-year-old pines, walkways, a skate park, playgrounds, basketball courts, a 33.5-meter watchtower, and adventure courses with zip lines. To the west, Ķemeri National Park (established in 1997) encompasses 381.65 square kilometers of forests, mires, and bogs, including the Great Ķemeri Bog with boardwalks and observation platforms for viewing rare flora and fauna. These wooded areas, often on dunes, separate urban zones from the beach and support biodiversity.

Dunes and Other Features
Dunes are a key element, with the Ragakāpa Nature Park featuring an 800-meter-long, 100-meter-wide wind-formed dune equipped with eco-trails and viewing platforms. Embryo dunes form on the beach from grass clumps, aiding natural coastal protection. Swamps and ancient forests add to the wild character, while the Jūrmala Open Air Museum preserves coastal fishing heritage with exhibits on local geography. Overall, Jūrmala's geography blends natural preservation with resort development, rooted in its 18th-19th century emergence as a health destination due to its mineral resources and seaside location.