Valka is a small Latvian town bordering the Estonian Valga. It is
unlikely that anyone would think to go here on purpose, but if you
find yourself in the Estonian part (for example, on the way from
Estonia to Riga), then it is interesting to look at the Latvian
part. The towns of Strenci and Seda, located on the road to Riga,
are no less curious, where you will find idyllic landscapes of the
Gauja River, a huge complex of a pre-revolutionary hospital and peat
bogs.
Valka was founded in 1920 when the city of Valk was
divided between Latvia and Estonia. Read about this and previous
events in the Valga article. Moreover, in Valga you need to look for
everything that you lack in Valka - for example, decent cafes and
hotels. Since the division of the city was unequal from the very
beginning, the Latvian part remains smaller than the Estonian part
both in size and in terms of infrastructure development. The only
exception is the Soviet missile base, which was located precisely on
the Latvian side. In Soviet times, Valka practically merged with
Valga: for example, the city hospital was located in Estonia, which
created many problems in 1991 when rebuilding the border. Since
2008, the border has again been absent (or rather, it is purely
formal), so the Valga-Valka sisters again embarked on a course of
integration under the slogan “One city - two states”. However,
residents of both cities and states admit that the economic
situation in Valga is more favorable. Many Valka residents work in
Estonia, and the only hospital in two cities is still located on the
Estonian side. Nevertheless, for an outside observer, the
differences are almost imperceptible: Valka looks quite well-groomed
and outwardly is in no way inferior to its Estonian neighbor.
The population of Valka is made up of Latvians and Russians. The
division between Estonians and Latvians took place back in 1920,
when many moved from one city to another, so now the ethnic border
more or less corresponds to the state one. Latvian and Russian
languages are equally present in the city, although all official
inscriptions, of course, are in Latvian.
The railway station is located in the Estonian Valga, from where
trains leave for Riga and Tallinn. On the Latvian side, the closest
station is Lugaži, two kilometers south of the city.
Bus
station, Rīgas iela 7. ☎ +371 (647) 2-35-38. 4:40 am - 7:30 pm. It
is located near the Estonian border and is a tiny pavilion with a
cash desk, a waiting room and a toilet. Buses to Riga 5 times a day,
on the way 3.5 hours (for some reason there are only two return
buses: in the morning and in the evening; where the rest come from -
it is not known: they may be rented in Estonia and returned by some
other route). These and some local buses can go to Valmiera 7 times
a day (1–1.5 hours), there are also buses in Smiltene (5 times a
day, 1 hour). Near the bus station there is a Narvesen kiosk, open
from early morning, where you can buy water, newspapers and Latvian
SIM cards.
You can get to Valka by car in the same way as to
Valga. On the Latvian side there are roads to Valmiera (50 km) and
Riga (160 km), as well as to Smiltene (44 km).
St. Catherine's Church (Luterāņu
baznīca), Rīgas iela 17. It was first mentioned in 1477, although
the current building can hardly be dated to the 15th century. The
wooden bell tower certainly belongs to some later period, and it
adorns the simple village church very much. Take a look inside: if
the church is open, for a small fee, you will be allowed to enter
the bell tower, which offers a good view of the city.
War Memorial, Rīgas iela, Gaujas iela
(from the center towards the museum). The mass grave of Soviet
soldiers is adjacent to the city cemetery. The memorial was built
according to the project of Latvian sculptors in the mid-1980s and
in many respects resembles the complex in Salaspils, which is near
Riga. Here it is also a monument to the oppressed, not to the
victorious soldiers. It is kept in good condition, although the
eternal flame has been extinguished.
Church of the Iberian Mother of God,
Ausekļa iela 14. Built in 2003-05. on the site of an ordinary hut,
which local residents converted into a church after in 1991 the
border separated the only Orthodox church in Estonian Valga from
parishioners living in Latvia. The church is made in the traditions
of Russian architecture, which is quite unusual for Latvia.
The development of Valka refers mainly to
the interwar period. Except for the old church, there are only two
pre-revolutionary monuments in the city: a red-brick police building
(Tālavas iela 4, 1902) with obvious features of Art Nouveau and an
administrative building in the spirit of romanticism (Semināra iela
29, 1909). The central streets, especially Rīgas iela, are built up
with pretty two-story mansions from the times of the Republic of
Latvia, and the house of culture decorated with columns (Em. Dārziņa
iela 8, 1924) openly anticipates the porticoes of post-war Soviet
architecture, which, by the way, is also present in the city - pay
attention to the abandoned the building of the garrison (1953),
standing almost opposite the house of culture.
Regional Museum (Valkas novadpētniecības
muzejs), Rīgas iela 64. ☎ +371 (647) 2-21-98. 1 Oct - 15 May: Mon – Fri
10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00; 15 May - 30 Sept: Tue – Fri 11:00 -
18:00, Sat – Sun 10:00 - 16:00. € 1.42 (2014). It is located in the
former building of the Vidzeme Teachers' Seminary - one of the
largest educational institutions in Livonia, founded in 1839 in
Valmiera and transferred to Valka in 1849. The building was built
immediately after that (1850-53), although you cannot tell by eye:
it is completely inexpressive. The museum has recreated a study room
and presents an exposition about the life of the pre-revolutionary
city. Be sure to pay attention to the expressive sculptures of the
first director of the seminary, Janis Ciemze, and another local
educator installed in front of the museum.
Medieval Origins and Livonian Period (13th–16th centuries)
The
settlement was first documented in 1286 in the credit register (debt
book) of the city of Riga, under the German name Walk (sometimes spelled
Walke or Walga). At that time, it appeared as Pedele in some records and
was located near important medieval trade and travel routes connecting
the Gauja and Seda rivers to the Pedele area.
In the 15th century,
Walk gained regional political significance. From 1419, it served as the
meeting place (seat) for the Landtag (provincial assembly) of the
Livonian Confederation, a loose alliance of mostly German-ruled
territories in what is now Latvia and Estonia. The Archbishop of Riga,
Johan VI Ambundi, convened the confederation there that year.
The
town remained under various powers during the Livonian Wars and
subsequent partitions:
Controlled by the Livonian Order (part of the
broader Teutonic Order influence),
Then the Polish-Lithuanian
Commonwealth after the Livonian War ended in the late 16th century.
In 1584, Polish-Lithuanian King Stefan Batory granted city rights to
Walk, formalizing its status.
Under Swedish, Russian, and Late
Imperial Rule (17th–19th centuries)
The town passed through Swedish
control (as part of Swedish Livonia) and then became part of the Russian
Empire after the Great Northern War (early 18th century). It was
incorporated into the Governorate of Livonia.
For most of its history
until the 20th century, Walk remained a single, undivided town with a
mixed Baltic German, Latvian, and Estonian population. It was a modest
provincial center, but its importance grew in the late 19th century due
to infrastructure developments:
The Vidzeme Teacher's Seminary (a
key educational institution and one of the first higher education
establishments in the area) operated here.
It became an important
railway junction.
The first narrow-gauge railway in what is now
Latvian territory was built from Valka to the Estonian city of Pärnu.
20th Century: Division, Independence, and Wars
The most dramatic
chapter began after World War I. Both Estonia and Latvia declared
independence in 1918 amid the collapse of the Russian Empire.
The
formerly unified town of Walk became contested territory. Both new
republics claimed it, leading to the Walk crisis (or Valga dispute). In
1920, an international arbitration commission (led by British Colonel
Stephen George Tallents) divided the town along ethnic and practical
lines:
The larger, more central part went to Estonia → renamed
Valga.
The smaller portion (including the rear of the old town
center, a park, and some residential areas) went to Latvia → became
Valka.
This created the unusual situation of a border running
through a single town, with streets, buildings, and even families
divided. The split was finalized on July 1, 1920.
Valka played a
notable role in Latvia's path to independence. It hosted key political
and social events between 1914–1920, including activities tied to the
Latvian War of Independence (1918–1920). Local museums highlight Valka
as a symbolic "birthplace" of Latvian independence due to these events.
Soviet and World War II Era (1940–1991)
1940: Both countries were
occupied by the Soviet Union under the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact. The
border between Valga (Estonian SSR) and Valka (Latvian SSR) became
largely irrelevant in practice, as the two republics were under the same
central Soviet authority. Physical border markers were removed, and the
towns functioned almost as one again (similar administration, currency,
etc.).
During the German occupation (1941–1944), the area saw
fighting and occupation.
After 1944, back under Soviet control until
1991, the administrative divide persisted on paper but had little
everyday impact.
The forests around Valka/Valga became a
stronghold for anti-Soviet partisans known as the Forest Brothers, who
waged guerrilla warfare against Soviet rule into the 1950s.
Post-Independence and Modern Era (1991–present)
After the restoration
of independence for both Latvia and Estonia in 1991, the border
reappeared, complete with checkpoints. This created some hardships
(e.g., divided families, economic disruptions), and there were even
cases of people moving to one side to avoid restrictions in the other.
The situation changed dramatically with EU accession and the Schengen
Area expansion:
Both countries joined the EU in 2004.
Full
Schengen membership in 2007 removed all border controls, fences, and
checkpoints.
Today, residents cross freely between Valga and
Valka—shopping, working, studying, or socializing on either side. The
border is marked only by signs, painted lines on streets, or symbolic
posts. The twin towns cooperate closely on tourism, culture, and
economy, promoting themselves jointly.
Location and Coordinates
Valka lies at 57°46′N 26°0′E, at an
average elevation of about 50–62 m (range locally 36–86 m). It sits
roughly 160 km northeast of Riga, 50 km north of Valmiera, and directly
on the Estonia–Latvia border. The border runs straight through the urban
fabric, dividing the once-unified settlement of Walk (German name) into
Valka (Latvia) and Valga (Estonia) following the 1920 international
arbitration. Since Latvia and Estonia joined the Schengen Area in 2007,
the border is completely open—no fences or controls remain—making the
two halves function as one community (“One Town, Two Countries”).
The
town occupies both banks of the Pedeli (Pedele) River, with the border
partly following this waterway and a smaller central stream, the
Varžupīte/Konnaoja (Frog Creek). This riverine setting is the defining
geographical feature.
Terrain and Geology
Valka sits on the
southern edge of the North Vidzeme Lowland, part of the broader East
European Plain. The landscape was shaped by the last Ice Age
(Pleistocene glaciation), leaving behind gentle morainic hills,
undulating plains, eskers, and scattered low hillocks. Elevations in the
wider municipality range from ~50 m in the lowlands to ~90 m on features
such as the Ērģeme and Burgas hillocks. Slopes are mild (often 0.1–0.2
m/km), promoting slow drainage and the formation of wetlands. There are
also small areas of aeolian (wind-deposited) dunes. The town itself has
a flat-to-gently-rolling character, with subtle rises such as
Putraskalns hill offering panoramic views over both Valka and Valga.
This terrain is typical of Vidzeme, where glacial deposits overlie
sedimentary bedrock, creating a mosaic of farmland, meadows, and forest
patches rather than dramatic relief (Latvia’s highest point,
Gaiziņkalns, is only 312 m and lies farther south).
Hydrology
The Pedeli (Pedele) River (31 km long, transnational) is the heart of
Valka’s geography. It flows through the town, forms small dammed lakes
(especially on the Valga side), and continues into Estonia’s Väike
Emajõgi basin toward Lake Võrtsjärv. A nature trail and extensive
recreational park follow its banks, with footbridges, cycle paths,
fountains, and open-air stages directly on the water—literally crossing
the border. The smaller Varžupīte/Konnaoja stream historically marked
the exact border line in the town centre and now hosts a shared
pedestrian bridge with a swing in the middle.
The wider municipality
contains dozens of small rivers and streams (including the Pededze
marking the northern municipal border with Estonia, plus tributaries of
the Salaca) and numerous shallow lakes (e.g., Lake Zāģezers, Lake
Veckārķi, Lake Cepsi, Lake Bezdibeņa). Total water area is modest but
significant for the region, and gentle slopes have created extensive
swamps and marshes (Kārķu Swamp, Sedas Swamp, etc.). The area drains
ultimately toward both the Gauja River system (south) and Estonian river
basins (north).
Climate
Valka has a humid continental climate
(Dfb), moderated slightly by the Baltic Sea and Atlantic influences. Key
averages:
Annual mean temperature: ~4.6–5.0 °C
January: –6.6
to –7.0 °C (extremes historically to –40 °C)
July: +16.1–16.5 °C
average (daytime highs often ~24 °C)
Annual precipitation: 670–770
mm, fairly even but with a summer peak (June–August ~85–95 mm/month)
Snow cover in winter; growing season is one of Latvia’s shortest
The climate supports lush vegetation but also creates seasonal
contrasts—long summer days, short dark winters, and frequent overcast
skies.
Vegetation, Land Cover, and Protected Areas
Forests
dominate the municipality (~50–59 % coverage nationally and locally),
primarily Scots pine, Norway spruce, and birch, with meadows, pastures,
and arable land filling the rest. Wetlands and bogs occupy another
notable share, reflecting the low-relief, poorly drained terrain. The
name “Valka” itself likely derives from Livonian or Latvian words
meaning “swamp,” “marsh,” or a historic portage route where boats and
cargo were dragged between the Gauja and Pedeli/Emajõgi river basins.
The area is ecologically rich and protected:
Parts lie within or
adjacent to the North Vidzeme Biosphere Reserve (UNESCO, ~475 000 ha)
and the Ziemeļgauja (North Gauja) Protected Landscape Area (Natura 2000
site).
Local reserves include swamps, calcareous meadows, old-growth
forest patches, and bird-rich wetlands.
Numerous nature trails (e.g.,
Kokšu lakes trail, Pedeli River trail) and campfire sites allow
exploration of the glacial landscape and biodiversity.