Alexandrov Cathedral of the Nativity is one of the most prominent
Christian churches in the town. It stands on a site of one of the
oldest churches in Russia. First church dedicated to Saint Nicholas
the Wonder (or Miracle) - worker was constructed in Alexandrov in
990 shortly after Russia adopted Christianity as its official
religion making it one of the oldest churches in the country. The
area was named after the patron saint and was popularly known as the
Nikolsky churchyard. Later a new wooden church was build next to a
church of Saint Nicholas. It was dedicated to the Nativity
(Rozhdestvo in Russian) and the area became known as Rozhdestvensky
Pogost (Churchyard) that became the name of Rozhdestvensky village
that surrounded it. Over time Alexandrov grew in size and joined
with a small village.
The site's origins trace back to 990 AD, when a wooden church
dedicated to St. Nicholas the Wonderworker was built. As the local
settlement expanded, a second wooden church honoring the Nativity of
Christ was added in the second half of the 11th century, positioned to
the east of the original structure. These wooden predecessors set the
foundation for the current cathedral.
In 1687, the site gained royal
attention when Tsareviches Ivan and Peter Alekseyevich (the future Peter
the Great) visited while traveling through Alexandrovskaya Sloboda. By
1696, a single stone cathedral replaced the two wooden churches, with
construction reportedly funded in part by Peter I and local
parishioners, under the supervision of palace clerk Yakov Ladogin. The
new building was consecrated to the Nativity of Christ, incorporating a
side chapel for St. Nicholas to honor the earlier church.
The
cathedral's history is closely tied to Empress Elizabeth Petrovna, Peter
the Great's daughter, who resided in Alexandrovskaya Sloboda until 1741
and frequently attended services here. She continued her visits after
ascending the throne. In 1829, merchant Fyodor Baranov funded a stone
bell tower to replace the wooden one. An additional side chapel
dedicated to Archangel Michael was added in 1831. A major reconstruction
in 1847, designed by Vladimir provincial architect Yakov Maksimovich
Nikiforov, gave the cathedral its present form.
During the Soviet
period in the 1920s, the cathedral was closed, looted, and repurposed
for various secular uses, including as an opera theater, youth club,
bakery, and cultural center. Its domes were demolished, and the bell
tower destroyed. Restoration efforts began in 1991 and are ongoing, with
the main altar and Archangel Michael chapel now operational, while work
continues on the St. Nicholas chapel and bell tower.
The cathedral's architecture is a fascinating blend, often debated as
either pseudo-Russian (neorus) or Empire style, combining elements of
late classical and Russian-Byzantine influences. From an aerial view, it
appears as a unified square-plan, single-story building under a hipped
roof. The western side features a prominent three-tiered bell tower
topped by a hemispherical dome, with clock dials on the north, west, and
south faces.
To the east, a lower rectangular apse with rounded
corners connects under a semi-spherical conch. Rising above the main
structure is a massive cube-like base (chevertik), adorned on each side
with three kokoshniks resembling zakomary (arched gables). The north and
south walls of this cube have three tall arched windows, while the east
and west feature blind arches. This base supports a large rotunda
crowned by a flattened onion dome with a cross on a globe.
The
western entrance includes a grand staircase, channeled columns, a
majestic portal, and a triangular pediment, evoking Empire style.
Pseudo-Russian elements are evident in the zakomary-like kokoshniks. The
white exterior contributes to its solemn and grand appearance, though
ongoing restorations, including scaffolding on the bell tower, may
affect views. The cathedral's elevated position on hilly terrain offers
panoramic views, enhanced by nearby monuments like one to Alexander
Nevsky.
The interior is spacious and lofty, characterized by white-and-gold finishes that create a bright, modern atmosphere. Key elements include a beautiful iconostasis, ancient frescoes in an older section, and wall and dome paintings. However, some visitors note that the restorations make it feel somewhat impersonal or lacking in traditional spiritual warmth. The main altar is dedicated to the Nativity of Christ, with active side chapels for Archangel Michael and the restoring one for St. Nicholas the Wonderworker.
Regarded as the "sacred heart" of Alexandrov, the cathedral holds deep historical value due to its ties to Peter the Great and Empress Elizabeth. It serves as an active place of worship with scheduled services, accessible via the northern door during construction. Visitor reviews praise its majestic and noble exterior but sometimes critique the interior as overly bright or modern. It's recommended for those interested in Russian history and architecture, though the ongoing work may limit full appreciation.