Chegem (Kabardian-Cherk. Shadzhem, Karach.-Balk. Chegem) is a city in the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic. The administrative center of the Chegem municipal district.
Chegem Gorge (Canyon)
The Chegem Gorge, often referred to as
Chegem Canyon, is the centerpiece of the region—a vast, narrow canyon
carved by the powerful Chegem River over millennia. This natural wonder
stretches for kilometers, featuring sheer rocky walls that rise steeply
on either side of the turbulent, noisy river, which rushes with a
strong, capricious flow. The gorge's walls create an enclosed
environment where the air is filled with mist from nearby waterfalls,
supporting exotic plants that cling to the cliffs and providing habitat
for various birds. The scenery is particularly striking, with the
river's turquoise waters contrasting against the dark, layered rock
formations. The road through the gorge starts as paved asphalt near the
entrance but transitions to a dusty gravel path beyond the main
waterfalls, making it a bit challenging but rewarding for those seeking
immersion in untouched nature. Visitors often describe the drive or hike
as mesmerizing, with the canyon's depth evoking a sense of awe and
isolation. In terms of accessibility, the gorge is reachable via the
Pyatigorsk-Nalchik highway, with the main entry point about 35
kilometers from the highway turnoff. It's best explored by car or
organized tour, as public transport is limited. Tips from travelers
include driving with windows closed and air conditioning on due to dust
on the gravel sections, and avoiding the area during heavy rains when
rockfalls can occur. The gorge has an overall visitor rating of 4 out of
5, with reviews praising the "very beautiful piece of road near the
falls" but warning about potential scams with local vendors selling
low-quality wine or souvenirs.
Chegem Waterfalls
No visit to
Chegem is complete without experiencing its iconic waterfalls, which are
among the most beautiful in the Central Caucasus and serve as a natural
monument. These falls are clustered within the gorge and vary in size
and style, creating a symphony of water cascading from cliffs into the
river below. The area is accessible year-round, but the experience
changes dramatically with the seasons—in summer, the mist creates
rainbows and a refreshing coolness, while in winter, the falls freeze
into fantastical ice pillars, statues, and icicles resembling giant
candles or stalactites, drawing crowds for their "wild beauty."
Aidai-su (Maiden's Spit) Waterfall: Located about 1.5 kilometers past
the village of Nizhny Chegem, this is often the first major fall
visitors encounter. It's a powerful 30-meter jet plummeting from a stone
trough into the gorge. To reach it, park and hike a short 200-meter
trail uphill. The name evokes local folklore, and the surrounding mossy
cliffs add to its enchanting appeal.
Big Chegem Waterfalls: Further
along in the canyon, behind the village of Khushto-Syrt, these are the
highlight—a series of falls formed by the Kayarti River dropping 50
meters in high-speed jets and cascades. Some streams gush from cracks in
the sheer cliffs, arching through the air and splintering into sprays
that catch the sunlight to form mini-rainbows. Others flow through thick
moss from heights up to 50 meters, with thousands of smaller jets
creating a "wall of water" effect. Known as the "Weeping Waterfalls" or
"Crying" falls, they appear as if the rocks themselves are shedding
tears. An upper viewing platform, reached by climbing a "ladder of
happiness" with 222 steps, offers panoramic views of the falls and
gorge; the sun penetrates the narrow canyon for only about two hours
daily, enhancing the misty, rainbow-filled atmosphere.
Small Chegem
Waterfalls: A bit farther, these feature a massive column of water
erupting from a stone well, accompanied by an echoing rumble that
reverberates off the rocks. The spray scatters into fine mists,
irrigating the air and often producing vivid rainbows. Visitors
typically spend around 30 minutes here, soaking in the high-energy sight
and sound, which evokes strong emotions.
At the base of the
falls, a small market sells hand-woven wool products from local
artisans, and cozy cafes offer national cuisine like hearty meats and
pies (meals around 500-600 rubles). Organized tours from Nalchik often
include stops here, lasting a few hours with time for photos, hikes, and
lunch. Visitors rave about the "stunning beauty" and "magical frozen
formations in winter," though some note the commercial aspect with
vendors. For the best experience, visit in the morning when crowds are
lighter, and wear sturdy shoes for the steps and trails.
Paragliding and Extreme Activities
For thrill-seekers, the Chegem
area offers world-class paragliding at a dedicated station about 30
kilometers beyond the waterfalls, accessible via the gorge's gravel
road. This site is famous for its powerful ascending wind currents,
allowing pilots to soar from morning to evening amid breathtaking
mountain vistas. The station, part of the Extreme Park Chegem, also
features a zip line and other adrenaline-pumping activities like rope
swings or climbing. Paragliding here provides panoramic views of the
gorge, river, and snowy peaks of the Main Caucasian Range, with flights
often lasting 20-30 minutes under instructor guidance for beginners. The
area attracts both novices and experts, with tandem flights available.
Safety is emphasized, but participants should check weather conditions,
as strong winds are key to the experience. Tips include booking in
advance during peak summer months and bringing warm layers, as
temperatures can drop at higher elevations.
Other Notable Sights
While the natural features dominate, Chegem also has cultural and
recreational spots. The Kuliyev Memorial House Museum honors the Balkar
poet Kaisyn Kuliyev with exhibits on his life and works in a historic
setting. Park Alpak, a small zoo, showcases local wildlife like alpacas
and offers family-friendly interactions. These provide a quieter
contrast to the gorge's intensity, ideal for a full-day itinerary
combining nature and culture.
The name of the city comes from the hydronym Chegem, which comes from the tribal name of the Balkars, Chegem.
Chegem is a town and administrative center of Chegemsky District in
the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic, southwestern Russia. Situated in the
North Caucasus region, it lies approximately 10 kilometers north of the
republic's capital, Nalchik, at coordinates 43°34′N 43°35′E. The town
sits at an elevation of about 470–500 meters above sea level, nestled in
the transition zone between the Kabardin Plain to the north and the
rugged foothills of the Greater Caucasus Mountains to the south. The
surrounding Chegemsky District spans 1,503 square kilometers,
encompassing a mix of urban (26.1% of population) and rural areas, with
a total population of around 69,000 as of the last major census.
Geographically, Chegem is part of a larger landscape dominated by the
Chegem River valley and gorge, which divides the mountainous terrain and
serves as a key natural corridor in the region.
This area falls
within the broader geography of Kabardino-Balkaria, a republic covering
12,500 square kilometers on the northern flank of the Greater Caucasus.
The republic is divided into three primary relief zones: the southern
Greater Caucasus with peaks exceeding 5,000 meters (including Mount
Elbrus at 5,642 meters and Dykh-Tau at 5,204 meters), the intermediate
foothills at 500–700 meters with deciduous forests and meadows, and the
northern Kabardin Plain, a level steppe crossed by rivers like the Terek
and its tributaries. Chegem itself is positioned in the foothills,
offering views of snow-capped mountains and serving as a gateway to the
dramatic Chegem Gorge, a highlight of the region's topography.
The topography around Chegem is characterized by a stark contrast
between plains, foothills, and high mountains. The town lies in a
relatively flat to gently sloping area in the lower Chegem Valley, but
the landscape quickly rises southward into the Chegem Gorge—a deep,
narrow canyon carved by the Chegem River over millennia. The gorge
stretches over 80 kilometers in total, though the most scenic and
accessible section for visitors spans about 20–30 kilometers between the
Chegem Waterfalls and the village of Eltyubyu (also known as El-Tube or
Upper Chegem). This canyon features sheer rock walls up to 300 meters
high, with the narrowest points compressing to just 15–25 meters wide,
creating a "stone bag" effect where sunlight rarely reaches the depths.
The road through the gorge runs along the riverbed, making it uniquely
accessible compared to other Caucasian gorges.
Higher elevations in
the upper Chegem Valley reach around 2,471 meters, transitioning into
alpine zones with rugged ridges and open, sunlit plateaus suitable for
activities like paragliding and rope jumping. The surrounding mountains
are part of the Main Caucasian Range, with rocky strata exposed in the
gorge walls, revealing geological layers from ancient tectonic activity.
Nearby villages like Eltyubyu and Bulungu dot the valley, and
archaeological sites, including ancient Balkar settlements and the "City
of the Dead" necropolis, add historical layers to the physical
landscape. Parts of the upper gorge fall within the Kabardino-Balkarian
Nature Reserve, which protects high-mountain ecosystems from 1,800
meters upward, covering glaciers, alpine meadows, and coniferous
forests.
The Chegem River is the defining hydrological feature, originating
from the Bashil Glacier on the northern slopes of the Main Caucasian
Range, east of Mount Elbrus. With a length of 103 kilometers and a
drainage basin of 931 square kilometers, it flows northeasterly through
the gorge before joining the Baksan River, a tributary of the Terek. In
its upper reaches, it's known as Bashil-Auzusu until merging with the
Gara-Auzusu. The river's swift flow has eroded the dramatic canyon, and
it supports a network of tributaries that create spectacular waterfalls.
The most prominent are the Chegem Waterfalls (also called Grand Chegem
Waterfalls), located near the gorge's lower end, about 16 kilometers
north of Nalchik. Formed by the confluence of tributaries like Adai-Su,
Sakal-Tup, and Kayaarty, these falls consist of thousands of jets
cascading from cliffs up to 78 meters high (the tallest, Abay-Su, is on
a less accessible tributary). In winter, the falls freeze into ice
formations resembling stalactites. Nearby, the Blue Lakes (including the
Lower Blue Lake) add to the area's water features, with karst origins
creating deep, turquoise pools amid forested mountains.
The region
also hosts about 100 small lakes, many between the Baksan and Malka
rivers, though none are large. Glaciers from nearby peaks like Elbrus
feed these systems, contributing to the area's hydrological richness.
Chegem experiences a continental climate influenced by its elevation and proximity to the Caucasus. In the lower foothills and plains around the town, average January temperatures hover around -4°C (25°F), while July averages 23–24°C (73–75°F). Annual precipitation is relatively low at about 500 mm in the drier northern areas, increasing to 500–2,000 mm in the mountains due to orographic effects. Winters can be cold with snowfall, transforming waterfalls into ice, while summers are warm and suitable for outdoor activities. Higher in the gorge and valley, temperatures drop significantly, with alpine zones seeing July averages as low as 4°C (39°F) and persistent snow cover on peaks.
The diverse elevations support varied ecosystems. Lower areas feature
meadow and steppe vegetation on rich soils, with deciduous forests
(beech, oak, alder, hornbeam, maple, ash, poplar) in the foothills.
Higher up, coniferous forests give way to alpine meadows and glaciers.
The Kabardino-Balkarian Nature Reserve protects much of this, hosting
endangered species like the West Caucasian tur, brown bears, foxes,
jackals, martens, and birds such as eagles. Natural resources include
minerals like molybdenum, tungsten, gold, chromium, and nickel in nearby
valleys, as well as coal.
This area falls within the broader
geography of Kabardino-Balkaria, a republic covering 12,500 square
kilometers on the northern flank of the Greater Caucasus. The republic
is divided into three primary relief zones: the southern Greater
Caucasus with peaks exceeding 5,000 meters (including Mount Elbrus at
5,642 meters and Dykh-Tau at 5,204 meters), the intermediate foothills
at 500–700 meters with deciduous forests and meadows, and the northern
Kabardin Plain, a level steppe crossed by rivers like the Terek and its
tributaries. Chegem itself is positioned in the foothills, offering
views of snow-capped mountains and serving as a gateway to the dramatic
Chegem Gorge, a highlight of the region's topography.
Early History and Archaeology
The history of Chegem, a town in the
Kabardino-Balkarian Republic of Russia, is deeply intertwined with the
broader North Caucasus region, particularly the Chegem Valley and Gorge,
which have been inhabited for millennia. Archaeological evidence
suggests human presence dating back to ancient times, with the area part
of the historical territories occupied by Circassian (Kabardian) and
Turkic (Balkar) peoples. The Balkars, who are genetically related to
Chechens and Ingush but adopted a Turkic language after Mongol
influences, settled in the mountainous regions including the Chegem
Valley. Early settlements in the Chegem area are linked to the Alania
kingdom and Vainakh tribes from the 6th century BCE onward, when the
region was known as Zichia under Circassian influence.
Key
archaeological sites in the Chegem Gorge and surrounding areas include
necropolises and mausoleums that highlight the region's medieval
heritage. The "City of the Dead" (also known as the Eltyubyu Necropolis
or Fardyk Necropolis) in the village of Eltyubyu (Upper Chegem) features
ancient Balkar mausoleums built between the 8th and 18th centuries.
These stone structures, known as "Keshene," were used for burying noble
feudal families and reflect influences from Alanian, Turkic, and
possibly Greek architectures. There are several such tombs in Upper
Chegem, including four in the Fardyk necropolis. The site includes
ground crypts, defensive towers, and remnants of ancient settlements,
serving as a focal point for Balkar history.
Other notable sites
include the Balkarukov Tower (or "Tower of Love") in Eltyubyu, a
medieval watchtower associated with local legends of feuds and romances,
such as Akhtugan Balkarukov's defense against rivals after abducting a
bride from Dagestan. Nearby are remains of ancient Greek temples and
defensive stairs—30-meter-high stone steps leading to walled enclosures
with thick fortifications, dating potentially to pre-Mongol periods.
These structures indicate the area's role in trade routes and defense
along the Caucasus mountains. The Chegem Gorge also holds mysterious
caves with historical significance; one cave in the gorge is linked to a
1767 event where villagers reportedly died suddenly, possibly from a
plague or natural gas release, leading to explorations and legends of
hidden treasures or anomalies.
Medieval Period
During the
medieval era, the Chegem Valley was part of the fragmented
principalities following the Mongol invasions (1242–1295), which
disrupted earlier Alanian and Georgian controls (1295–1427). The region
integrated into a unified Circassian Kingdom around 1427 until King
Inal's death in 1453, after which it remained semi-independent. Balkar
communities in the upper Chegem Valley, such as Eltyubyu and Upper
Balkaria, developed as mountain auls (settlements) with defensive
architecture to withstand raids. These villages preserved Balkar
customs, including feudal hierarchies where nobility was buried in
elaborate mausoleums. The area saw contests between Ottoman and Russian
influences in the 17th–18th centuries, with local tribes navigating
alliances. By the 18th century, Kabardia (including parts of Chegem)
achieved brief independence (1739–1774) before Russian expansion.
Russian Conquest and Imperial Era
The 19th century marked the
Russian conquest of the North Caucasus. Kabardia was annexed in 1774
under the Treaty of Küçük Kaynarca, while Balkaria followed in 1827. The
Chegem area, part of Balkaria, was incorporated during the
Russo-Circassian War (1763–1864), which involved brutal campaigns and
the Circassian genocide, leading to mass migrations and depopulation.
Russian forts were established, including at Nalchik (near Chegem) in
1818, to secure the region. Cossack settlers arrived, altering
demographics. The Chegem Valley's Balkar inhabitants resisted but were
eventually subjugated, with the area becoming part of the Terek Oblast
in the Russian Empire. This period saw cultural suppression but also
infrastructure development, such as roads through the gorge.
Soviet Era
After the Russian Revolution, Chegem's region was chaotic
during the Civil War (1917–1922), briefly part of the anti-communist
South-Eastern League and then the Mountain Peoples' Autonomous Republic
in 1921. The Kabardin Autonomous Oblast was formed in 1921, amalgamated
with Balkaria in 1922 to create the Kabardino-Balkar Autonomous Oblast,
and elevated to an Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic (ASSR) in 1936.
A dark chapter was the 1944 deportation of the entire Balkar population
(over 37,000 people) by Stalin, falsely accused of Nazi collaboration.
Villages in the Chegem Valley, predominantly Balkar, were emptied, and
the republic was renamed Kabardin ASSR. Many deportees died in exile in
Central Asia. In 1957, under Khrushchev's rehabilitation, Balkars
returned, and the name Kabardino-Balkar ASSR was restored. This event
profoundly impacted Chegemsky District, with lingering ethnic tensions.
The town of Chegem (originally Chegem Pervy) was developed as an
administrative center, gaining urban-type settlement status in 1972 amid
Soviet industrialization efforts.
Post-Soviet and Modern History
With the Soviet collapse, Kabardino-Balkaria became a republic within
Russia in 1991, signing a power-sharing agreement in 1994 (abolished in
2002). The 1990s brought economic turmoil, with tourism in the Chegem
Gorge declining due to instability in nearby Chechnya and Georgia,
leading to high unemployment. Radicalization among the Muslim population
grew, culminating in events like the 2005 Nalchik uprising by militants.
Chegem itself was granted full town status in 2000, reflecting
post-Soviet administrative reforms.
Today, Chegem serves as the
administrative hub of Chegemsky District, with a population of around
18,000, blending Kabardian and Balkar cultures. Efforts to preserve
historical sites, like the Eltyubyu necropolis, support tourism, though
challenges from regional conflicts persist.