Erzi (Ing. Arzi - "Eagle") is a state natural reserve located in the Dzheyrakh and Sunzha regions of Ingushetia, Russia.
The village of Erzi (Ingush: Arzi, which translates as "Eagle") is
located in the Dzheyrakh district of mountainous Ingushetia, on the
right bank of the Armkhi River, at an altitude of 1,315 meters above sea
level. This historical settlement, now deserted, is part of the rural
settlement of Olgeti and is part of the State Historical, Architectural
and Natural Museum-Reserve "Dzheyrakh-Assa". Its history goes back to
ancient times and is associated with the Ingush people, the traditions
of the highlanders and their defensive architecture.
Ancient
period and the Middle Ages
There is no exact information about the
origin of Erzi, but archaeological data and local folklore indicate its
existence since the early Middle Ages. According to Ingush legends, the
village was founded on the site of an eagle's nest - a strong bird
revered by the highlanders as a symbol of freedom and power. Perhaps the
eagle was a totem or patron of the locals, which is reflected in the
name.
Erzi is mentioned as part of the Fyappi (Vabua) society,
one of the territorial associations of the Ingush. In the Middle Ages,
towers began to be built here - combat, residential and semi-combat,
which became a distinctive feature of Ingush architecture. According to
legend, recorded by the ethnographer Chakh Akhriev in the 19th century,
Erzi was founded by Chard, the son of Kista, a descendant of the Syrian
Komnenos family, who fled through Abkhazia and Georgia to the Caucasus.
Chard allegedly built 16 towers, many of which have survived to this
day. Although this legend is mythical, it emphasizes the antiquity of
the settlement.
In the 13th-14th centuries, Erzi, like other
mountain villages of Ingushetia, was part of the zone of influence of
the Alanian kingdom, and then the Golden Horde. However, due to the
inaccessibility of the area, it remained relatively independent, obeying
local elders and the laws of adat.
18th–19th centuries:
Incorporation into Russia
In the 18th century, Erzi and the
surrounding lands became an arena for struggle between local highlanders
and advancing Russian troops. After the Caucasian War (1817–1864) and
the annexation of Ingushetia to the Russian Empire in 1858–1860, the
village became part of the Terek Region. During this period, the Erzi
towers continued to serve as defensive structures, protecting residents
from raids and conflicts.
At the end of the 19th century, Erzi
attracted the attention of travelers and ethnographers. Photographs of
that time taken by Russian and European researchers captured its towers
and the valley of the Armkhi River. At that time, the village was
inhabited by the Ingush from the Mamilov teip, whose coat of arms with
the image of an eagle emphasized the connection with the name of the
village.
20th Century: Decline and Reserve
During the Soviet
period, Erzi underwent dramatic changes. In 1944, after the deportation
of the Ingush to Central Asia, the village was deserted. Many residents
did not return after rehabilitation in 1957, preferring to settle in the
lowland areas. Erzi gradually turned into an abandoned aul, although its
towers were preserved thanks to the harsh climate and stone masonry.
On December 21, 2000, the Erzi State Nature Reserve was created on
the territory that includes Erzi (RF Government Resolution No. 992).
This protected the village and its surroundings as a historical,
architectural and natural monument. In 2009, the reserve area was
expanded to 35,292 hectares, including additional land in the Dzheyrakh
and Sunzhensky districts.
Modernity
Today, Erzi is an
uninhabited village, but its towers remain an important tourist
attraction and cultural heritage site. In 2018, part of the reserve (a
third of the territory) was transferred to the Chechen Republic under
the Chechen-Ingush agreement on the administrative border, which caused
protests from local residents and environmentalists. Nevertheless, Erzi
retains its status as part of the museum-reserve, attracting
researchers, tourists and lovers of mountain architecture.
Location
The village of Erzi is located in the mountainous part of
the Republic of Ingushetia, in the Dzheyrakh district, on the right bank
of the Armkhi River (a tributary of the Terek). The geographic
coordinates are approximately 42°48' north latitude and 44°45' east
longitude. It is located 40 km south of Magas, the capital of
Ingushetia, and 60 km southwest of Vladikavkaz (North Ossetia). Erzi is
part of the rural settlement of Olgeti and is part of the State
Historical, Architectural and Natural Museum-Reserve "Dzheyrakh-Assa".
The nearest settlements are the village of Dzheyrakh (15 km to the west)
and the village of Lyazhgi (10 km to the east).
Relief
Erzi is
located in the Caucasus Mountains, on the southern slope of the Main
Caucasian Range:
Altitude above sea level: About 1,315 meters,
making it one of the high-mountain settlements of Ingushetia. The area
itself reaches heights of up to 4,000 meters (for example, Mount Shan -
4,451 m).
Features: The area around Erzi is steep slopes, gorges and
plateaus covered with forests and alpine meadows. The village is located
on a terrace above the Armkhi River valley, which provided natural
protection from enemies in the past. The rocks and cliffs around create
a harsh but picturesque landscape.
Water resources
Armkhi
River: Flows directly at the foot of the village, its length is about 30
km. It originates in the mountains and flows into the Terek River. In
the Erzi area, the river is narrow (5–10 meters), with a fast current
and a rocky bottom.
Streams and springs: There are many small
mountain streams and springs in the area that feed Armkhi. Some of them
are of local importance as sources of drinking water.
Proximity to
the Assinsky Gorge: 20 km to the east begins the Assinsky Gorge, where
the Assa River (another tributary of the Terek) forms deep canyons.
Climate
The climate of Erzi is mountainous, moderately
continental with alpine features:
Winter: Cold and snowy
(December–March), the average January temperature is -5…-7°C, with
frosts down to -20°C in the highlands. Snow cover lasts 4–5 months.
Summer: Short and cool (June–August), average July temperature is
+15…+17°C, rarely above +25°C. Rains and fogs are frequent.
Precipitation: About 800–1000 mm per year, with a peak in May–June. High
humidity due to the proximity of the mountains and the river.
Winds:
Predominantly southwest, sometimes strong in the gorges.
Soils
and vegetation
Soils: Mountain meadow and forest, with a thin layer
of humus. Farming is difficult due to rockiness and steep slopes, but
the meadows are suitable for grazing.
Vegetation: Erzi is surrounded
by mixed forests (about 60% of the reserve's territory) — beech,
hornbeam, oak, pine, birch. Above 2000 meters, alpine meadows with
grasses and flowers (rhododendrons, gentian) begin. Shrubs (rose hips,
hawthorn) grow in the river valley. The forests are rich in mushrooms
and berries (raspberries, blackberries).
Natural features
Erzi
Nature Reserve: The village is part of the nature reserve of the same
name (35,292 hectares), created in 2000. Rare species of animals live
here - the Caucasian tur, chamois, brown bear, lynx, as well as eagles,
which gave the village its name.
Towers: Erzi is known for its
medieval towers (combat and residential), built from local stone. They
are located on slopes and terraces, enhancing the natural protection of
the area.
Seismicity: The area has moderate seismic activity (5-6
points), associated with the tectonics of the Caucasus.
Transport
geography
Erzi is a hard-to-reach place due to its mountainous
terrain:
Roads: A dirt road from Dzheyrakh (15 km) leads to the
village through passes. The main route is via the R-217 "Kavkaz" highway
to Nazran (70 km), then along mountain roads through Dzheyrakh. In
winter, the road is often closed due to snow.
Public transport: There
are no regular buses, the nearest stop is in Dzheyrakh or Nazran (buses
from Vladikavkaz, 1–1.5 hours, 100–150 rubles).
Access: The best way
is a cross-country vehicle or a guided tour from Magas/Vladikavkaz.
Ecology
The ecological situation is favorable: the absence of
industry and sparse population keep the air and nature clean. The
reserve protects flora and fauna, but tourism creates a risk of garbage,
which is controlled by the authorities.
One
of the largest tower complexes in Ingushetia is located on the
territory of the reserve. The tower complex is located at the end of
the mountain range in the Dzheyrakh gorge and includes 8 combat
towers, 2 semi-combat towers and 47 residential towers encircled by
stone defensive walls.
The battle towers are up to 30 meters
high, at their base are square (from 4.8 m to 5.8 m), mainly in five
floors (one 6-storey) with pyramidal-stepped roofs.
In one of
these towers, in the 19th century, a bronze figure of an eagle was
discovered, made at the end of the 8th century AD, known as the
"Eagle of Suleiman".