Lake Cerknica

Lake Cerknica

 

Location: Inner Carniola  Map

Area: 38 km²

Email: info@notranjska.eu

 

Description

Lake Cerknica or Cerniško Jezero is a beautiful pristine lake located in the Inner Carniola region of Slovenia. The lake covers an area of 38 km² with a maximum depth of 10 meters or 33 feet. Unique feature of this body of water is a fact that it is situated over karst cavern. Occasionally the water rushes down inside underground spaces below leaving only marches and wetland above. During wet season the lake fills up again. Water shoots through numerous springs from the subterranean reservoirs below ground level. First man who described this curious pattern was ancient Greek historian, geographer and a traveler Strabo (63 BC- 24 AD. He called it Lacus Lugeus (Mourning Lake) in his book Geography (volume 7, chapter 5). However it wasn't until 17th century when Johann Weikhard von Valvasor explained these intermittent patterns. During dry periods that usually last from June to September the lake dries up leaving large expanses of lands. Locals bring their cattle here and over 200 species of migratory birds begin to nest here. The largest human settlement here is a town of Cerknica. If you want to find out more about the lake you can head to village of Dolenje Jezero (2 mi South of Cerknica) where you can visit Lake House Museum devoted to this famous lake.

 

History

Ancient Origins and Early Mentions
Lake Cerknica, located in southwestern Slovenia within the Inner Carniola region, is one of Europe's most remarkable karst phenomena—an intermittent lake that periodically fills and drains due to its porous limestone bedrock. Its history dates back to antiquity, with the earliest known reference appearing in the works of the Roman geographer Strabo (63 BC – 21 AD). Strabo described a "marsh called Lugeon" (helos Lougeon kaloumenon), which scholars have identified as Lake Cerknica, romanized as Lugeum or Lugeon palus, meaning "the sad lake" possibly due to its melancholic, fluctuating nature. This ancient acknowledgment highlights the lake's long-standing intrigue, as its dramatic cycles of appearance and disappearance were already noted in classical texts. Archaeological evidence suggests the surrounding area has been inhabited since prehistoric times, with karst formations shaping human settlement patterns, though specific Roman-era interactions remain sparse beyond indications of awareness.
The lake's formation itself ties to post-glacial geological processes. Formed after the last Ice Age, the Cerknica Polje (a flat-floored karst valley) resulted from tectonic activity and water erosion of limestone and dolomite, creating a network of underground rivers, sinkholes (ponors), and estavelles (reversible springs that can both drain and fill). This "amphibious landscape" has influenced local ecology and human activity for millennia, supporting diverse flora and fauna adapted to wet and dry phases.

Medieval Period: Fishing Rights and Local Economy
By the medieval era, Lake Cerknica had become integral to regional economies, particularly through fishing and land use. Written records from the 10th century confirm human habitation around the lake, with settlements like Cerknica village emerging on its southern "island" (a raised area that becomes insular when flooded). The first documented owners of fishing rights were the Patriarchs of Aquileia, a powerful ecclesiastical principality in northeastern Italy. In 1319, Patriarch Pagano della Torre granted these rights to Oldarik Cividale for the lake and its tributaries. A century later, around 1419, the Postojna estate acquired half the lake along with fishing privileges.
The lake's importance grew under Habsburg rule. In 1477, Emperor Frederick III (Cesar Friderik IV) bestowed fishing rights upon the town of Lož, formalizing control over this vital resource. During this period, the lake's intermittent nature shaped local folklore and practices. When full, it spanned up to 38 square kilometers, becoming Slovenia's largest lake and a hub for fishing; when dry, the fertile polje supported grazing, farming, and even plowing in the same areas where boats had recently plied. Legends of witches on nearby Slivnica Hill and enchanted valleys arose, attributing the lake's "vanishing" to supernatural forces, reflecting medieval interpretations of its hydrology.
From the 15th century onward, Lake Cerknica appeared on European maps, underscoring its growing recognition beyond local borders. This cartographic inclusion coincided with the Renaissance interest in natural wonders, setting the stage for scientific inquiry.

Scientific Exploration in the 17th and 18th Centuries
The Enlightenment era brought Lake Cerknica into the spotlight of European science, as its mysterious cycles puzzled scholars. In 1687, the Carniolan polymath Johann Weikhard von Valvasor (Janez Vajkard Valvasor) detailed the lake in a letter to London's Royal Society, published in Philosophical Transactions. Valvasor proposed a mechanical model inspired by Cartesian principles, explaining the filling and emptying through underground channels. His observations, drawn from local knowledge, noted how villagers exploited the cycles: fishing during drainage and haymaking on the exposed bed. Valvasor's work earned him fellowship in the Royal Society and immortalized the lake as a "miraculous" phenomenon.
Building on this, in 1781, Austrian mineralogist Tobias Gruber provided the first accurate description of the lake's hydrology, emphasizing karst processes. Three years later, in 1784, Belsazar Hacquet, a surgeon and naturalist, refined these insights, detailing the role of sinkholes and subterranean flows. These studies shifted perceptions from folklore to science, portraying the lake as a dynamic system where water from tributaries like the Stržen River fills the polje in wet seasons (autumn-winter), reaching depths of up to 10 meters, only to drain via ponors in drier periods, transforming into a lush meadow teeming with wildlife. The lake's biodiversity—home to rare birds, amphibians, and plants—further fueled interest, with botanists noting amphibious species adapted to its dual states.

19th and 20th Centuries: Human Interventions and Conflicts
The industrial age saw attempts to tame the lake's unpredictability. Flooding posed risks to agriculture, prompting drainage efforts. In the 19th century, various proposals emerged, but significant action began in the early 20th century. In 1921, a water company was established in Cerknica with the goal of permanent drainage. Led by engineer Hočevar until World War II, the project involved deepening channels and sinkholes to accelerate outflow, aiming to reclaim land for farming. These interventions altered the lake's natural rhythm, though never fully eliminating its intermittency.
Post-WWII, under Yugoslav Slovenia, the lake's ecological value gained recognition. Conflicts arose between drainage advocates and conservationists, reflecting broader tensions between development and nature. By the late 20th century, awareness of its unique ecosystem—supporting over 200 bird species and serving as a key wetland—led to protective measures. In 2006, it became part of the Notranjska Regional Park, emphasizing sustainable tourism and research.

Contemporary Status and Cultural Legacy
Today, Lake Cerknica is celebrated as a UNESCO tentative World Heritage site under "Classical Karst," illustrating ongoing geomorphological processes. It attracts visitors for activities like cycling, birdwatching, and exploring sinkholes, while festivals honor its folklore, including witch legends. Climate change poses new challenges, potentially altering filling cycles, but ongoing studies build on centuries of observation. The lake's history encapsulates humanity's evolving relationship with nature—from ancient awe and medieval exploitation to scientific understanding and modern conservation—making it a timeless symbol of Slovenia's karst heritage.

 

Geography

Location and Physical Characteristics
The lake lies in the southern portion of the Cerknica Polje, a karst polje within the Inner Carniola region, approximately 35 km south-southwest of Ljubljana, Slovenia's capital. Its central coordinates are roughly 45°45′N 14°23′E, and it is oriented in a northwest-to-southeast direction, aligning with the structural trends of the Dinaric Alps. At an elevation of about 550 meters above sea level (ranging from 546 to 553 meters depending on water levels), the lake's surface area varies dramatically. When full, it can cover up to 38 km², though it typically spans 20-26 km², with lengths around 10.5 km and widths up to 5 km. The maximum depth reaches about 10 meters. This makes it larger than Slovenia's permanent lakes, such as Lake Bohinj, by a factor of nearly eight when at its peak.
The Cerknica Polje itself is a tectonic depression, forming a flat plain that serves as the lake's basin. The lake's intermittent nature means it is present for approximately eight to nine months of the year, typically from autumn through spring, before draining in the drier summer months.

Geology and Karst Features
Lake Cerknica exemplifies classic karst topography, a landscape shaped by the dissolution of soluble rocks like limestone. The polje floor is underlain by impermeable dolomite in its northern section and more soluble Cretaceous limestone in the southeast, covered by alluvial deposits of loam, clay, and sand up to 10 meters thick. This geological setup creates a network of underground caves, rivers, and sinkholes (known as ponors) that allow water to infiltrate rapidly.
The lake's basin is part of the broader Slovenian Karst region, where surface water connects directly to the groundwater table. Sinkholes and craters become visible when the lake drains, revealing a "moon-like" landscape of karst features. The polje's formation is tectonic, resulting from faulting and subsidence in the Dinaric Alps, which has produced a flat, enclosed depression prone to flooding.

Hydrology and Water Dynamics
The hydrology of Lake Cerknica is driven by its extensive catchment area of about 475 km², including inflows from the Bloke Plateau, eastern Snežnik Hills, Javorniki, Loška Dolina, and Slivnica. Major tributaries contribute water at rates up to 240 cubic meters per second during heavy rainfall, while outflows range from 40 to 90 cubic meters per second through underground channels. This imbalance causes the lake to fill quickly—often within two to three days after intense precipitation—and drain just as rapidly when inflows decrease.
Water enters primarily through surface streams and springs, but excess drains via ponors into the subterranean karst system, eventually resurfacing elsewhere, such as in the Ljubljanica River basin. The lake's water level can fluctuate by over 7 meters, leading to its complete disappearance in dry periods, transforming the area into a grassy meadow. This cycle is influenced by seasonal precipitation patterns, with filling most common in the wetter months and emptying in summer.

Surrounding Landscape and Topography
The lake is encircled by dramatic alpine features. To the south and southwest rise the Javornik Hills, part of the Dinaric Alps, reaching elevations of 1,268 meters at Veliki Javornik. To the north looms Mount Slivnica, peaking at 1,022-1,114 meters, providing a natural barrier. The Bloke Plateau borders it to the east, contributing to the catchment.
These surrounding highlands not only frame the polje but also influence local microclimates and water flow. The area transitions from the lake/polje floor to forested hills, creating diverse habitats. When dry, the plain reveals sinkholes, craters, and underground entrances, while when flooded, it supports aquatic ecosystems.

Ecological and Human Geography
Geographically, Lake Cerknica is a biodiversity hotspot, designated as a Ramsar wetland site since 2006 for its international importance. The fluctuating water levels support varied ecosystems: wetlands and reeds when full, meadows with wildflowers and butterflies when dry. It hosts abundant birdlife, fish, and other wildlife, making it a key site for conservation.
Human interactions include recreational activities like cycling around its 26 km² perimeter (starting from villages like Dolnje Jezero), fishing, and hiking. Historically, the lake supplied ice to distant places like India in the 19th century, though recent climate changes have led to shorter flooding periods and water shortages. The nearby town of Cerknica serves as a gateway, with the lake integrated into the Notranjski Regional Park for protection and tourism.