Location: Bohuslän, Västergötland
Gothenburg is located on the west coast of the Swedish region of
Götaland. With just over half a million inhabitants, Gothenburg is
the second largest city in Sweden. It is an important transport hub,
especially for boat trips and train journeys from Stockholm to
Norway.
Gothenburg was founded in 1619 by King Gustav II
Adolf at the mouth of the river Göta Älv in the Kattegat. The city
was granted city privileges in 1621. Previous cities were further
upstream in what is now Lödöse (now only 1200 inhabitants) and on
the site of the current district of Gamlestaden. In the 17th century
there were still territorial disputes with Denmark; the regions
south of Gothenburg only became Swedish in the middle/end of the
century. The city was therefore planned as a fortified city with a
moat and fortifications. Dutch city builders shaped the cityscape,
which can still be seen today in the canals running through the
center (part of which has since been filled in and converted into a
tram route). In 1805 the city fortifications were abandoned and in
the first half of the 19th century the city grew out of the center
surrounded by the moat.
The city is characterized as a port,
trade, industry and shipyard location. The automobile industry with
Volvo Cars and Volvo Trucks is particularly dominant. The city was
once the center of Swedish shipbuilding. In the 1970s, however, many
shipyards had to close due to increasing international competition.
However, the traces of the working class of the past are still
omnipresent. Politically, the city was and is social democratic.
Gothenburg's port is the largest in Scandinavia and is one of the
top 25 in Europe.
For those interested, there is information
about the historical background in the city museum, in Lödöse in the
Lödöse Museum. In Gamlestaden, there are basically no traces of
history visible anymore.
St. Christine's Church (Tyska kyrkan), Norra Hamngatan 16 . Home of
the German church community. The magnificent colored church windows are
particularly worth seeing.
Gothenburg Cathedral (Göteborgs domkyrka),
Kyrkogatan 28 . Built in 1825 on the ruins of its predecessors. The two
predecessors had existed since 1633, but both fell victim to fire.
Masthuggskyrkan, Storebackegatan 15 (in the Majorna district). The
church is a landmark that can be seen from afar and was completed in
1914 in the national romantic style.
Oskar Fredrik's Church (Oscar
Fredriks kyrka), Oscar Fredriks kyrkogata 1A . Completed in 1893 in the
neo-Gothic style, the church is located just west of the city center on
a small hill between the Haga and Masthygget districts. The church was
named after King Oscar II (1829-1907) and belongs to the Swedish Church
(Svenska kyrkan). From the streets above the church and the
Masthyggsterrassen you have a good view of the roof and the polygonal
tower of the church. The interior features worth seeing include the
leaded glass windows, the wall paintings, which like the glass windows
are by the artist Adalbert Eldh, the triptych and the side chapel. The
interior of the church is rather unusual due to its focus on green
elements, such as the green benches and chairs, but harmonizes
particularly well with the colorful glass windows.
Gothenburg was built in the 17th century as a fortified city. The
moat around the city center is still clearly visible today. The city
wall that once lay behind it has largely been demolished.
The
remaining remnants of a bastion are still preserved at Esperantoplatsen.
To defend the city, the following ramparts and fortresses were also
built outside the city walls, directly around the city center:
Skansen Kronan, Skansberget, Leijonsparres väg 10, SE-413 04 . The
rampart, originally a complete fortification, was built on Risåsberget,
a natural hill in what is now the Haga district, from 1639 under Gustav
II Adolf and completed in 1689. The rampart complex was located directly
outside the city walls, from which any besiegers of the city could have
been fired upon with cannons. Today, the only building that remains is
the rampart tower, which bears the crown, "Kronan", on its roof, after
which the complex was named. Over the years - since demilitarization in
1806 - it has had a varied history of use, serving as a residential
building, prison, museum and storage room. The interior of the ski jump
tower cannot be visited, but there is a small metal ladder to a small
platform halfway up. The outdoor facilities are freely accessible and
offer a beautiful view of the city center and the historic district of
Haga.
Skansen Lejonet (Skansen Westgötha Leijon), Emerentias backe
25, 411 04 . This ski jump was also built on a natural elevation and was
completed in 1697. The ski jump can only be visited once a month on
Sundays. The location is not very nice today, as the ski jump is now
surrounded by the railway facilities of Gothenburg Central Station.
Nya Älvsborg . The fortress on an island in the harbor entrance was
built from 1653 onwards. Today the facility is only accessible during
the summer, with boats leaving from the city center.
Also located
outside the city gates are:
Bohus Fortress (Bohus fästning),
Färjevägen 1, Fästningsholmen, SE-442 31 . (17km north) -- Fortress in
Kungälv, partly in ruins, can be visited for a fee.
Carlsten Fortress
(Karlstens fästning; 30km northwest) . Fortress in Marstrand, can be
visited for a fee. The complex is quite extensive (plan at least two
hours for a visit) and, together with the island of Marstrand, is worth
a day trip.
Ragnhildsholmen Castle Ruins (Ragnhildsholmen; 16km
north) . A castle ruin from the 13th century. Only the foundations of
the castle remain, freely accessible. The ruins are quite manageable,
about 30 minutes are enough for a visit.
Gunnebo Castle (Gunnebo
slott; 8km south) . A manor house in Mölndal with a park. The park is
freely accessible, but there is an admission charge for visiting the
manor house.
Tjolöholm Castle (Tjolöholms slott; 35km south). A manor
house in Kungsbacka with a park.
Buildings
The 11th Kronhuset is somewhat hidden in the middle of the city center. Together with the surrounding buildings Kronhusbodarna, it forms a historic courtyard that is worth a quick visit during a city tour. The Kronhuset was built between 1643 and 1655 as an armory. In 1660, the Swedish Parliament met in the building. Today it is mainly used as a concert hall for the Gothenburg Wind Orchestra.
The museums run by the city of Gothenburg are marked with a (☆). The
one-time entrance fee is 65 SEK for adults (children/young people up to
20 years old are free), and an annual ticket is available for 130 SEK,
which is valid in the city's museums during the current year.
Universeum, Södra Vägen 50, 400 20 Gothenburg. Tel.: +46 31 335 64 50,
E-mail: info@universeum.se . The main attractions are several large
aquariums with various sharks and very large viewing windows, as well as
a large, recreated rainforest over several floors with tropical
temperatures. Here you can also meet wild animals (birds, butterflies).
A spectacular feature is an open tank with several smaller rays that you
can touch. The animals are naturally curious and enjoy being touched.
There are several halls with numerous scientific experiments and devices
to try out, and explanations are also given in English. Among other
things, you can also take a trip through the different climate zones of
the earth. Much of it is self-explanatory, however. Children can spend
hours here, but much is also interesting for adults. At the end there is
a larger shop with scientific books (mostly in Swedish, of course) and
many technical gadgets, souvenirs and children's toys. Some of it is so
unusual that it could even be in a museum. The prices in the shop and
for food are high, so you should plan on about 4-5 hours for the visit.
Open: daily 10:00 a.m.–6:00 p.m. Price: adults 190 SEK, children 3-16
years 135 SEK.
Volvo Museum (Volvo Museum), Arendal Skans, 405 08
Gothenburg (10 km west of the center). Tel.: +46 31 66 48 14 . The Volvo
factory museum is worth a visit for anyone interested in technology. The
museum is located on the old Götaverken shipyard in Arendal on the
island of Hisingen. In addition to a complete collection of Volvo cars,
there are also commercial vehicles, construction machinery, boat drives
from Volvo Penta and products from Volvo Aero.
Maritiman (Göteborgs
Maritima Centrum), Packhusplatsen 12, 411 13 Gothenburg. Tel.: +46 31 10
59 50, E-mail: info@maritiman.se . Worth seeing museum fleet at
Packhuskajen with the lightship Fladen, numerous decommissioned naval
ships, a harbor ferry and the submarine Nordkaparen. All ships are
connected to each other by walkways so that you can go from ship to ship
without returning to land in between. Almost all of the ships can be
walked through, including the submarine. Small children must wear life
jackets to visit the Maritiman, which are available at the entrance.
Allow enough time if you want to explore all the ships thoroughly.
Göteborg City Museum (Göteborgs stadsmuseum), Norra Hamngatan 12,
Gothenburg. Tel.: +46 31-368 36 00, email:
stadsmuseum@kultur.goteborg.se . The city museum is centrally located in
the city center in the former building of the Swedish East India
Company. The collection shows an overview of the city's history and the
museum offers a collection of works of art from the 15th century to the
present day. Open: Tue+Thu 10:00–18:00, Wed 10:00–20:00, Fri–Sun
10:00–17:00, Mon closed. Price: Adults 65 SEK, children free.
Gothenburg Art Museum (Göteborgs konstmuseum, ☆), Götaplatsen, 412 56
Gothenburg, Götaplatsen 6, 412 56 Gothenburg. Tel.: +46 31 368 35 00,
Email: info.konstmuseum@kultur.goteborg.se . The museum has a collection
of works of art from the 15th century to the present day. There are
regular photo exhibitions in the adjoining Hasselblad Center. Some art
exhibitions require additional admission. Price: adults 60 SEK, children
free.
Natural History Museum (Göteborgs Naturhistoriska museum, ☆),
Museivägen 10, Gothenburg (2 km southwest of the center). Tel.: +46 10
441 44 00, Email: gnm@vgregion.se . The natural history museum is
located in Slottskogen Park. The most important exhibit is a blue whale
that stranded in Gothenburg in 1865. A large part of the permanent
exhibition has not changed for decades and therefore appears historical
itself. Open: Tue–Sun 11:00–17:00, closed Mon. Price: Free admission
(new since 2018).
Maritime Museum (Sjöfartsmuseet Akvariet, ☆), Karl
Johansgatan 1-3, 414 59 Gothenburg, Karl Johansgatan 3. Tel.: +46 31
368 35 50, E-mail: info.sjofartsmuseum@kultur.goteborg.se . (3km west of
the center) The Maritime Museum describes the themes of ports and
seafaring and also has an aquarium that is particularly popular with
children. Open: Tue–Sun 10:00–17:00, Wed 10:00–20:00, closed Mon. Price:
Adults 65 SEK, young people up to 20 years free.
Aeroseum, Holmvägen
100, 417 46 Gothenburg, Holmvägen 100, SE-417 46 (Bus 35 to "Granhäll";
do not use the airport bus to Säve as this only stops on the opposite
side of the airport). Tel.: +46 31 55 83 00, email: info@aeroseum.se .
The Aeroseum is a museum for military aircraft. The entire facility is
housed underground in a former nuclear bunker at the former military
Gothenburg City Airport. Guided tours are offered on Saturdays and
Sundays at 13:00. Open: depending on the season, see website. Price:
Adults 100 SEK, children 50 SEK.
Världskulturmuseet, Södra Vägen 54.
Tel.: +46 31 63 27 00, email: info@varldskulturmuseet.se . The World
Culture Museum, which opened in 2005, offers changing exhibitions and
installations with impressive video and audio sequences on various
cultures of the world, but also on ecological and social issues, in the
immediate vicinity of the Universeum. Restaurant, café, shop. Feature:
free WiFi. Open: Tue–Fri 12:00–17:00, Sat–Sun 11:00–17:00, closed Mon.
Price: parts of the museum are freely accessible, individual exhibitions
cost admission (40 SEK).
East Indiaman Gothenburg (Ostindiefararen
Gothenburg), Pir Fyra 2. Tel.: +46 31 779 34 50 . The sailing ship
Götheborg is a replica of a cargo sailing ship that sank in 1745 in
front of the Gothenburg harbor on its return from India. It completed a
circumnavigation of the world between 2005 and 2007, and then made
several more trips. It can be visited during the season (when not
sailing). More information about the ship here. A visit to the pier can
be easily combined with a walk along the quay. The former shipyard and
harbor area has only been developed into a new residential area since
the turn of the millennium. Open: see website. Price: Adults 100 SEK,
children 50 SEK.
Trädgårdsföreningen . Right in the center along the moat is the
Trädgårdsföreningen park (garden society), which was established here in
1842. Of all the parks in Gothenburg, this is where you will find the
most flowering plants, including a rose garden. Price: free entry.
Slottskogen . 2km south of the center is the 'Slottskogen' park. In
addition to a wide range of sports facilities and the natural history
museum, there is also a small animal park (free entry) with animals
typical of Sweden: moose, deer, horses, but also penguins, aquarium fish
and birds. In summer, a petting zoo with pony rides for children is also
open. Contrary to the name Slottskogen (castle forest), there is no
longer a castle. You can get there by tram via the Linnéplatsen or
Botaniska Trädgården stops. There are parking spaces for cars on the
south side. Price: free entry.
Botaniska Trädgården (Göteborgs
botaniska trädgård), Carl Skottsbergs Gata 22A . Opposite Slottskogen is
the Botaniska Trädgården (botanical garden). The focus here is on the
botanical cultivation of various plant species from all parts of the
world. Access by tram via the Botaniska Trädgården stop. There are a
limited number of parking spaces for cars. At the back, the botanical
garden leads into the Änggårdsbergen nature reserve. Price: 20 SEK
(voluntary).
Outside the center are:
Ramberget / Keillers Park
(Ramberget, Hisingen) . (2km northwest) On the island of Hisingen lies
the mountain Ramberget, 87m high, in Keillers Park. The mountain offers
a wonderful view of the entire city at any time of year and day. It can
be accessed on foot or by car on a small ring road (Panoramavägen). The
park was created in 1908 from a donation by shipyard owner James
Keiller. The vegetation is largely natural. Take the tram to the
Wieselgrensplatsen stop.
Delsjön / Skatås / Härlanda Tjärn. The
extensive recreational area of Delsjön / Skatås / Härlanda Tjärn is 5
km east of the city center. There are numerous walking and hiking trails
and running routes in the wooded and slightly hilly area.
Opera and theater
Göteborgsoperan, Christina Nilssons Gata. Tel.: +46 31 13 13 00 . The
Gothenburg Opera was rebuilt between 1991 and 1994 and is located
directly on the banks of the Göta Älv near Lilla Bommen.
Gothenburg's
City Theatre, Götaplatsen. Tel.: +46 31 708 71 00 . Gothenburg's city
theatre is located right on Götaplatsen. It was built in 1934.
Amusement park
Liseberg. Tel.: +46 (0)31 40 01 00 . Northern Europe's largest amusement park, Liseberg, is located in the middle of the city and has many spectacular rides. The park was opened in 1923 to celebrate the city's 300th anniversary. In addition to the rides, concerts by well-known artists are also offered on two stages. During Advent, there is a Christmas market on site that is well worth seeing. Open: Daily from 11 a.m. in summer, otherwise see website. Price: Adults 90 SEK (plus rides).
Miscellaneous
Utkiken. (the lookout) is located on the red and white striped "lipstick" (because of its slanted tip) right by the harbor and offers a good view of the city. Open: Daily in summer 11:00–16:00, see website. Price: Adults 40 SEK, children 20 SEK.
Explore the city centre on foot
The immediate centre of Gothenburg
is easy to explore on foot. Start within the old moat and take a walk
along the Göta Älvs, past the Maritima Museum, the Opera, the Kronhuset,
the German Church and the Cathedral.
You should also follow the
boulevard Avenyn to its southern end, where you will find the statue of
Poseidon, which is framed by the Art Museum, the City Theatre, the
Concert Hall and the Library.
Cross the moat at Esperantoplatsen and
you can catch a glimpse of the last remnants of the former city wall.
From here you walk into the Haga district to Haga Nygata. This district
is the first to be built outside the old city walls. It was planned to
be redeveloped (demolished) in the 1970s, but the residents successfully
resisted this. The buildings here are typically Landshövdingehus, which
are bricked on the ground floor for fire safety reasons and built in
conventional wood construction above. From Haga you can climb up to
Skansen Kronan, from where you can enjoy a beautiful view of the city
center. The Slottskogen park and the restaurants on Linnégatan are also
within easy reach.
"Paddan" - city tour on the water
For a
quick overview, you can take a city tour on the water with the "Paddan"
(toad). The open boats depart centrally from Kungsportsplatsen, the tour
lasts 50 minutes and leads over the old moat to the Göta Älv. The city
guide's explanations are usually also in German if required. Cost: 160
SEK (adults).
Trip with the Älvsnabben harbor ferries
A good
and inexpensive way to see the harbor facilities and new residential
areas on the Göta älv from the water (at least when the weather is good)
is a trip with the Älvsnabben harbor ferries (line 285): You start at
the Lilla Bommen Hamn stop, which is furthest in the river, then the
trip goes past the opera, the ships of the Maritiman Ship Museum and the
Packhuskajen to Stenpiren, then it goes to the other side of the river
to the Lindholmspiren of the university, to the Slottsberget stop and to
the former Eriksberg shipyard, now an upscale residential area. The
small Älvsnabben then cross the river again and dock one last time at
Klippans färjeläge right next to the pier for the Stena Line's Germany
ferries, before returning to the starting point - again with the stops
listed on the outward journey (not always all of them). The journey
takes around 1.5 hours without a break and is therefore valid with a
normal Västtraffik ticket. For cyclists and pedestrians who want to
travel back to Germany with Stena Line, it is also the most beautiful
way to get to the ferry dock, as neither the footpath nor the cycle path
to the Tysklandsterminal are particularly beautiful.
Archipelago
Islands
A visit to the archipelago islands is a must when visiting
Gothenburg.
The southern archipelago islands are car-free,
largely unforested and characterized by a granite coast. Take tram line
11 to the Saltholmen terminus and from there take the boat to the
archipelago. Check the timetable; depending on the island, the ferries
run every 60-90 minutes during the day. Be sure to plan your return
journey options and check when the last boat leaves. The same ticket is
valid for the ferries as for trams and buses in Gothenburg.
The
northern archipelago islands around Öckerö are easier to reach, as a car
ferry runs from Vargholmen every 20 minutes during the day and in the
evening. The Hönö Klåva harbor on the island of Hönö is a tourist
attraction. There is also a small fishing museum here. Another ferry
also leaves from the northern tip of the island of Burö to smaller and
therefore more original islands in the north.
Note the "discovery walks" in the center described above
The
Slottskogen and Botaniska Trädgården parks offer good walking trails
close to the center.
The Delsjön nature reserve offers longer hiking
trails. The walk around the Great Delsjön is about 8 km.
For hiking
close to the city, Vättjefjäll is a good option (15 km northeast,
Kryddnejlikegatan bus stop). There are circular trails of 5 to 15 km.
Sturdy hiking boots (because of wet conditions) and maps are required.
The 360km long Bohusleden hiking trail starts not far from Gothenburg.
There are many opportunities in the beautiful nature in and around
the city.
Cycling: Gothenburg has a well-developed network of
cycle paths that make it easy to get to the sights and the surrounding
area. There is a bike rental system in the city center. The 3-day ticket
costs 25 SEK and allows you to ride 30 minutes between stations.
Inline skating: Gothenburg is not ideal for skaters. Because of the many
mountains, driving is interesting but also tiring. The tarmac is very
rough from the spikes of cars and can be very unpleasant if you fall.
The best way to get around is along the cycle paths.
Jogging: There
are marked running routes in the Delsjön nature reserve from the Skatås
sports center.
Volleyball, basketball, soccer: In Slottskogen there
is always the opportunity to take part in a game. On the large meadows
there are always groups playing one or another ball sport. There is also
a Frisbee golf course in Slottskogen.
Swimming:
There are several
indoor swimming pools in the city, for example
Valhallabad,
Valhallagatan 3. located directly in the city center behind the
Skdinavium. Price: 60 SE adults
Gothenburg has several large
lakes with bathing areas, e.g. at Delsjön.
There are also nice
bathing spots on the coast, for example
Sillvik. A bay with a bathing
beach, 15 km northwest of the center on Hisingen. Price: Free entry.
Kayak rentals:
Escape Outdoor Center, in Önnered, 10 km south of
the center. From here you can explore the archipelago in seaworthy
kayaks.
Point 65 Kayak Center, Lilla Bommens Hamn, right in the city
center on the Göta Älv.
Canoe rental in Vättjefjäll, 15 km north of
the center. Canadian canoe rental in the lake district.
Ice skating:
In winter there are several ice skating rinks and halls.
Sports events
Gothenburg often hosts major sporting events, such as the European Athletics Championships in 2006. Gothenburg is also home to several outstanding sports clubs. Ullevi, the large stadium, also occasionally hosts games of the Swedish national team. The largest international youth handball tournament, the Partille Cup, has been held in the first week of July since 1970. The youth football tournament Gothia Cup also takes place every year in July.
The Ullevi (the big stadium) often hosts large concerts by
international stars. In addition, the clubs, especially Sticky Fingers,
offer concerts by national and lesser-known bands.
The Liseberg
amusement park also regularly hosts concerts by well-known artists on
two open-air stages during the summer months. See the program. The visit
costs the park entrance fee of 90 SEK (adults).
Opera fans get their
money's worth at the Gothenburg Opera House.
Every year in August
there is the Kulturkalaset, a cultural city festival with music stages
(free) and snacks throughout the city center. The program also includes
quieter and smaller items.
Festivals also take place in the summer:
Way Out West in Slottskogen or Metaltown
By plane
Göteborg Landvetter Airport (IATA: GOT) is located 25km
east of Gothenburg. There are direct flights to Frankfurt am Main,
Berlin, Munich, Hamburg, Düsseldorf, Vienna and Zurich.
The
transfer to the city center is provided by Flygbussarna express buses,
which run up to every 15 minutes depending on the time of day. On the
way to the final stop Nils Ericson Terminalen (near the central
station), the buses also stop at a few intermediate stops within the
city. The ticket price for adults is 149 SEK (129 SEK online) for a
single trip or 269 SEK (239 SEK online) for a round trip. In addition to
buying online, tickets can also be purchased by card on the bus, at
ticket machines and at sales points such as 7-eleven.
The smaller
Säve Airport (IATA: GSE) (until 2017: Gothenburg City Airport) is only
about 10km north of the city center. The airport is now only in use for
private flights and helicopters. (As of May 2018)
By train
The
main train station, Göteborg Centralstationen, can be reached from
Copenhagen via the Öresund Bridge with good direct connections to the
Öresund Bridge. Deutsche Bahn offers trains from German train stations
to Gothenburg for €59 (one way) or €118 (round trip). The journey time
from Hamburg, for example, is ideally around 9½ hours with only one
change in Copenhagen. You can book directly online via the Deutsche Bahn
website.
Gothenburg is a central hub both for the other major
cities in the country and especially for regional transport on the
entire west and south coast and in the southern inland. More information
on the Swedish Railways and Västtrafik websites.
The station is a
terminus and is therefore also accessible for people with limited
mobility.
By bus
At the central bus terminal Nils Ericson
Terminalen, right next to the main train station, not only regional
buses stop, but also coaches with national and international
connections. Flixbus has connections to
Malmö/Copenhagen/Hamburg/Oldenburg, Warsaw,
Jönköping/Linköping/Stockholm and Oslo, and Vy bus4you to
Malmö/Copenhagen, Jönköping/Linköping/Stockholm and Oslo.
By road
By car, you can either use one of the ferry connections from Denmark,
Germany or Norway, or drive directly overland across the Öresund Bridge
between Copenhagen and Malmö.
The following highways reach
Gothenburg:
E6 to Oslo — developed as a motorway — distance to Oslo:
300km
E20 to Alingsås and further towards Stockholm — not fully
developed as a motorway
40 to Borås, Jönköping — largely developed as
a motorway. This is the fast route to Stockholm, to Jönköping and then
the E4. — Distance to Stockholm: 470km
E45 to Trollhättan and further
north—largely developed as a motorway up to Trollhättan.
E6 to Malmö
— developed as a motorway — Distance to Malmö: 300km
Parking in
Gothenburg city center can be very expensive, free parking spaces are
virtually non-existent and even the paid ones are often full. The cost
per hour varies considerably. Parking spaces are divided into different
zones and cost between 5 and 30 SEK per hour. Between 10 p.m. and 8 a.m.
the parking fee is 2 SEK per hour.
A city toll (Trängselskatt)
has been levied in the center of Gothenburg since 2013. The cost is 9-22
SEK per passage on weekdays, only one passage is charged within an hour.
Cameras register the license plate and the vehicle owner later receives
an invoice and pays by bank transfer. Since 2015 the toll also applies
to foreign vehicles. Attention: The surcharge for missed payment is 500
SEK (approx. 50€). For cars rented in Sweden, the costs are usually
already included in the flat rate. For cars rented at Gothenburg
airport, they are always included.
By ship
Stena Line operates
ship connections from Kiel and Frederikshavn in North Jutland. The piers
are located close to the city center on the southern bank of the
Götaälv: the STENA Masthuggsterminalen (to Frederikshavn) and further
out to sea on the bank of the Götaälv just before the Älvsborgsbron is
the STENA terminal Jaegerdorffsplatsen (Tysklandsterminalen, to Kiel).
If you book early, there are usually good deals, both with and without a
car. If you forego the luxury of an outside cabin and don't mind a bunk
bed, you can have a lovely sea voyage at very low cost. Only the costs
for the optional food on board are a little more expensive. The entrance
to the port is spectacular, as you drive under a bridge, the
Älvsborgsbron, under which the ship only just fits. This spectacle is
best viewed from the top deck.
Gothenburg is also a port of call
for passengers on cargo ship journeys. These mostly dock at the
Skandiahamn container port. The journey from there to the city by public
transport is quite time-consuming. Due to the limited port stays of
modern container ships, it is better to take a taxi.
By bike
Long-distance cycle routes in Sweden are signposted to varying degrees.
In particular, EuroVelo 12, also known as the North Sea Cycle Route or
North Sea Coast Cycle Route, and EuroVelo 3, also known as
Pilgrimsleden, are generally not signposted. However, they always follow
the same route as Swedish cycle paths, which are usually well to very
well signposted (the newly built Kattegattleden). These signs are
usually easy to follow, so a sat nav is not absolutely necessary. Even
within Gothenburg, inner-city destinations are usually very well
signposted.
Cyclists coming from the south can reach Gothenburg
on the North Sea Cycle Route or EuroVelo 12, the Sverigeleden and the
Kattegattleden. The cycle paths split about 10 km before the city
center, Sverigeleden and EuroVelo 12 lead directly into the city, the
Kattegattleden takes a detour to the west and then leads into the center
on a beautiful cycle path along the banks of the Göta älv under the
Älvsborgsbron and directly past the Stena Line's Germany terminal.
Coming from the north, you can get to Gothenburg using the signs for
the Sverigeleden and (if available) the North Sea Cycle Route/EuroVelo
12 and the EuroVelo 3 - to get to the city center, you cross the
Götaälvsbron.
Public transport is well developed. The hub of the tram system is
Centralstationen Brunnsparken. From here you can reach practically every
part of the city by tram. All means of transport operated by the local
transport company Västtrafik can be used for 43 SEK (36 SEK in the app)
for 90 minutes, 115 SEK for 24 hours and 230 SEK for 72 hours. In
addition to city buses and trams, Västtrafik also operates the harbor
ferries and boat lines to the Gothenburg archipelago.
Tickets can
be purchased in the app, at machines, from the bus driver and at points
of sale. In most cases, only card payments are possible!
Taxis
are more expensive in Gothenburg than in Germany. Please also note that
prices are not regulated by the state. A comparative price for a 10km
journey is displayed on the outside of the taxi. For the larger taxi
companies, this is 300 to 350 SEK; With dubious companies it's double,
so check before getting in. At night, especially in the entertainment
districts, for example on the Avenyn, you may be offered so-called black
taxis. These are operated illegally and are not safe. Refuse at all
costs.
Nordstan sits immediately beside Gothenburg Central Station and the
Nils Ericson bus terminal, so it is the first indoor shopping stop for
almost anyone arriving by train or long-distance coach. Opened in 1972
after a large 1960s slum-clearance project in the old Östra Nordstaden
district, the complex links nine buildings under glass-covered streets
and draws tens of millions of visitors a year. Expect the usual Nordic
and international chains (H&M, Åhléns, Kappahl, Clas Ohlson, Intersport
and many others), food courts, pharmacies and services. Prices sit at
typical Swedish city-centre levels rather than discount-store levels.
The official tourist information office is inside the mall, which is
useful for maps, Göteborg City Card details and tram tickets. Typical
mall hours are Monday-Friday 10:00-20:00 and Saturday-Sunday 10:00-18:00
(individual shops can differ). After shop closing the public passages
stay open and the atmosphere changes.
Feskekôrka (the “Fish Church”)
stands on Fisktorget beside the Rosenlund Canal. City architect Victor
von Gegerfelt designed the iron-and-brick hall, finished in 1874, with
pointed windows and a nave-like interior inspired by Nordic stave
churches and neo-Gothic forms. Gothenburgers immediately nicknamed it
Feskekôrka, and the name stuck. It is a listed building and one of the
city’s best-known landmarks. After a multi-year renovation it reopened
as a working fish hall plus restaurants and a canal-side terrace. A
handful of counters sell west-coast fish, shellfish, smoked products and
ready-to-eat prawns; prices are aimed at visitors as much as locals.
Counter hours are typically Tuesday-Thursday 10:00-18:00, Friday
10:00-18:30 and Saturday 10:00-17:00; restaurants stay open later.
Combine a visit with a walk along Vallgraven or a tram ride to nearby
Haga.
Stora Saluhallen on Kungstorget is the better everyday market
hall for most travellers. Built 1888-1889 in iron, stone and glass (one
of Sweden’s first large buildings of that type) after a city decision to
move meat, dairy and farm produce under cover, it opened with dozens of
rented stalls and still has the feel of a late-19th-century covered
square. Today more than 30 small vendors sell cheese, charcuterie,
bread, coffee, spices, fruit, ready snacks and sit-down meals. Prices
are generally kinder than at Feskekôrka and the mix is more useful for
picnic shopping. The hall is a listed historic building. Kungstorget
itself has been a market square since the mid-19th century, when trade
moved here from what is now Gustaf Adolfs Torg.
Kungsportsavenyn,
almost always shortened to Avenyn, is Gothenburg’s main boulevard and
principal shopping street. Laid out in the 19th century as a
representative avenue with linden trees and (originally) front gardens,
it runs from Kungsportsplatsen toward Götaplatsen, the concert hall and
the art museum. From the 1950s onward it became a full shopping mile:
every major Swedish and international chain appears at least once, mixed
with independent shoe, fashion, design and gift shops, cafés and evening
restaurants. Sidewalks are unusually wide. City Aveny at number 26 packs
extra shops and a Coop supermarket under one roof. Evening life is
lively; the street is also the city’s parade and event axis.
Supermarkets are fewer and more concentrated than in many German cities,
but the range is comparable. Swedes have a well-known sweet tooth: check
labels, because socker turns up in bread, mustard and other savoury
products more often than visitors expect. The main chains are:
ICA (including large ICA Maxi and ICA Kvantum stores)
Coop and Stora
Coop
Hemköp
Willys (usually cheaper)
Lidl (also cheaper)
Stora Coop and ICA Maxi have the biggest floors and the widest
ranges. Most larger stores stay open until 21:00-23:00 and operate on
Sundays as well. For international and specialty items, ICA Focus in
Focushuset is the standout: it sits directly opposite the main Liseberg
entrance and next to the Gothia Towers hotel. Tram line 5 stops at
Liseberg. The store is one of the city’s largest, with bakery, fish,
deli and a long international aisle, and it typically runs from early
morning until 23:00 every day.
Practical note: alcohol for home use
is sold only at Systembolaget, not in ordinary supermarkets, and those
shops keep shorter hours. For atmosphere and quality over bulk
groceries, start with Saluhallen and Feskekôrka; for chains, maps and a
dry arrival from the station, start at Nordstan; for a classic city
stroll, walk Avenyn.
Before the city: river, fort and failed towns
People lived along
the lower Göta Älv from the Neolithic. Bronze Age cairns, rock carvings
and Iron Age graves still mark the heights around the present city.
Viking-age traders used the river; one of the few intact Swedish knarrs
was found in these waters.
The first documented urban predecessor was
Lödöse, about 40 km upstream near present-day Lilla Edet. From the 11th
century it served as Sweden’s western port while the coast itself
remained under Danish or Norwegian control. Distance from the sea made
it vulnerable and inconvenient.
In 1473 the council of the realm
founded Nya Lödöse (Nylöse) at the mouth of the Säveån, on the site of
today’s Gamlestaden. By the late 15th century it ranked among Sweden’s
leading trading towns. After the Kalmar Union collapsed, Gustav Vasa
reinforced its privileges because Denmark still controlled the Öresund
and could tax Baltic shipping. In 1547 the settlement was moved closer
to Älvsborg Castle and briefly called Älvsborgs stad. The castle itself
was captured twice by the Danes (1563 and 1612); Sweden paid huge
ransoms (Älvsborgs lösen) to recover it.
Charles IX tried again in
1603–1607. He planted a new town named Göteborg on Hisingen, opposite
Älvsborg, and filled it with Dutch settlers and tax exemptions. The
Kalmar War ended that experiment: Danish-Norwegian forces burned the
settlement to the ground in June 1611. A stone in Färjenäs Park still
marks the site of its church.
1621: “Here the city shall lie”
After the second ransom for Älvsborg was paid, Gustav II Adolf (Gustavus
Adolphus) decided the next attempt would be on the south bank, on
slightly higher ground around Otterhällan. Legend says a dove fleeing an
eagle landed at his feet and he declared “Här skall staden ligga.” The
story is commemorated by Bengt Erland Fogelberg’s 1854 statue on Gustaf
Adolfs Torg. Temporary privileges were issued in 1619; permanent city
rights, in 37 articles in Swedish and German, followed on 4 June 1621.
Inhabitants of Nya Lödöse were ordered to move.
The new town was
conceived as a Dutch trading colony and a fortress. Dutch engineers laid
out a grid of canals and streets on marshy ground, echoing Amsterdam.
The first city council mixed Dutch, Swedish, German and Scottish
members. Tax holidays and religious tolerance were used to attract
merchants. A star-shaped earthwork with a moat (Vallgraven, still
visible) and later the twin redoubts Skansen Kronan and Skansen Lejonet
made 17th-century Gothenburg one of the best-fortified cities in
northern Europe. Kronhuset (1654), the old artillery storehouse, is one
of the few 17th-century buildings still standing.
The Treaty of
Roskilde (1658) changed the strategic picture. Denmark-Norway ceded
Halland and Bohuslän. Gothenburg was no longer a lonely outpost, yet it
and Marstrand kept exclusive rights to trade with foreign merchants,
which helped the port grow.
Population stayed modest: roughly 1,150
in 1635, about 4,000 by 1670, around 10,000 by 1700.
Eighteenth-century golden age: tea, porcelain and privateers
The
Swedish East India Company (Svenska Ostindiska Companiet), founded in
1731 with royal monopoly on trade east of the Cape of Good Hope, turned
Gothenburg into a European entrepôt for Chinese tea, silk, porcelain and
spices. Colin Campbell, Niclas Sahlgren and other merchants directed 132
voyages with 37 ships until the company wound up in 1813. Profits
financed the East India House (Ostindiska huset, 1762), now the City
Museum, as well as hospitals, schools and later Chalmers University of
Technology and Sahlgrenska Hospital. By mid-century the city had passed
10,000 inhabitants and was a cosmopolitan merchant town.
Licensed
privateering also enriched local families. Lars Gathenhielm and his
widow Ingela ran a formidable operation from Gothenburg during the Great
Northern War. An attempted Danish-Norwegian attack by Peder Tordenskjold
in May 1717 was beaten off near Nya Varvet.
Fishing remained
important, glassworks opened in 1761, and the first theatre outside
Stockholm with a standing company (Comediehuset, 1779) and an early
girls’ school appeared. Fires and epidemics still struck regularly.
Nineteenth century: walls down, industry up
Napoleon’s
continental blockade briefly made Gothenburg Europe’s main market for
British goods. After 1815 a long depression followed. The real
transformation began later:
Göta Canal opened in 1832, linking the
west coast to the Baltic.
The Western Main Line railway reached
Stockholm in 1862.
Fortifications were demolished from 1807 onward;
Nya Allén and later Avenyn and Vasagatan were laid out as boulevards.
Working-class districts such as Haga, Majorna and Landala grew outside
the old moat.
Steamships, telegraph and telephone arrived. Trams
started in 1879; the network is still Scandinavia’s largest.
Feskekörka, the fish-market hall that looks like a Gothic church, opened
in 1874.
Population exploded: about 13,000 in 1800, 26,000 in 1850,
more than 130,000 by 1900. Gothenburg became Sweden’s main port of
departure for emigrants to North America.
Shipbuilding took root.
Scotsman Alexander Keiller built the first steam-powered iron-hulled
ship here in 1847 and founded the workshop that became Götaverken.
Lindholmen and Eriksberg followed. By the early 20th century the three
yards dominated Swedish ship construction.
Twentieth century:
bearings, cars, yards and crisis
Two inventions defined the
industrial city. In 1907 Sven Wingqvist patented the self-aligning
spherical ball bearing at Gamlestadens Fabriker; SKF (Svenska
Kullagerfabriken) grew into a global leader. In 1927 Assar Gabrielsson
and Gustaf Larson launched Volvo as an SKF spin-off; the first
series-produced Volvo left the Hisingen plant that year. In 1959 Nils
Bohlin’s three-point seatbelt, developed at Volvo and released free of
patent restrictions, became a worldwide standard.
Götaverken,
Eriksberg and Lindholmen made Gothenburg one of the world’s great
shipbuilding centres after 1945. Indoor building halls at Arendal
(1960s) were technically advanced. The 1970s oil shocks, rising costs
and East Asian competition produced a brutal shipyard crisis. The state
formed Svenska Varv; yards closed or shrank through the late 1970s and
1980s. Population inside the municipality actually fell for a time as
people moved to suburbs.
During World War II Sweden stayed neutral,
but the harbour’s strategic value led to “Operation Blockade” in May
1944: two tankers were sunk to block the river against possible German
use. After the war the port modernised for containers; Skandia Harbour
on Hisingen was created by filling part of the fjord.
Cultural
landmarks of the 20th century include Liseberg amusement park and the
Museum of Art at Götaplatsen (both 1923, 300th anniversary), the
Gothenburg Symphony, and the ship-shaped Opera House on the waterfront
(1994). Bridges transformed Hisingen from industrial island into part of
the inner city: Göta älvbron (1939) and Älvsborgsbron (1966).
The
city today
Gothenburg remains Sweden’s largest port and a centre for
automotive, life-science and logistics industries. The old canal grid,
the moat, Skansen Kronan on its hill, Haga’s wooden houses, Avenyn and
the East India House still give the centre a readable historical layer.
The replica East Indiaman Götheborg has sailed the historic Canton
route, keeping the 18th-century trading story alive.
From a handful
of Dutch and Scottish merchants behind earth ramparts in 1621 to a
metropolitan region of more than a million people, Gothenburg’s history
is the history of Sweden’s turn toward the Atlantic: fortress first,
then counting-house, then shipyard and factory, now a diversified port
city that still lives by the river that made it.
Location and regional setting
Gothenburg lies in southwestern
Sweden, roughly halfway between Copenhagen and Oslo and about 400 km
west of Stockholm. Coordinates for the city centre are approximately
57°42′27″N, 11°58′03″E. Average elevation in the built-up core is around
10-12 m above sea level.
The site was chosen for strategy as much as
trade. In the Middle Ages Sweden held only a narrow corridor to the west
coast. Bohuslän to the north was Norwegian and Halland to the south was
Danish. The Göta älv mouth was Sweden’s only open gate to the North Sea.
That corridor still shapes the city: the river, the island of Hisingen,
and the two river arms that wrap around it.
The municipality of
Gothenburg covers about 448 km² of land (plus a large water area). The
continuous urban area also spills into Mölndal, Partille, and parts of
Kungsbacka. The metropolitan region (Stor-Göteborg) includes Ale,
Alingsås, Härryda, Kungälv, Lerum, Lilla Edet, Mölndal, Partille,
Stenungsund, Tjörn, Öckerö, and Kungsbacka, with a population of about
1.08-1.1 million. The city proper has about 600,000-613,000 residents.
Historically the city straddles three landskap (traditional provinces):
Västergötland - the centre, south, and most of the mainland east of the
river
Bohuslän - most of Hisingen and the northern archipelago
Halland - the southern fringe of the built-up area toward Kungsbacka
Administratively it is the seat of Västra Götaland County.
Physical geography and geology
The terrain is a sprickdalslandskap
(fissure-valley landscape). Precambrian bedrock - mainly gneiss,
gneiss-granite, and related rocks - forms elongated ridges and rounded
knolls. Between them run clay-filled valleys left by the last ice sheet
and later by marine sedimentation after the land rose from the sea.
Ridges are often bare or thinly soiled. Valleys hold farms, roads,
railways, and most of the urban fabric.
Seven main valleys converge
on Gothenburg:
Göta älv valley
Säveån valley
Lärjeån valley
Gothenburg-Kungsbacka valley
valley east of Mölndal
Slottsskogen-Askim valley
Kvillebäcken valley on Hisingen
The
Göteborg moraine, a ridge 100-600 m wide formed about 15,000 years ago,
runs from Fjärås through Lindome toward eastern Hisingen.
The highest
point in the municipality is 161.2 m above sea level, about 1 km south
of Holmesjön in the northeast, roughly 20 km from the city centre.
Within a few kilometres of downtown the relief is modest (a few tens of
metres), but hills such as Ramberget on Hisingen and the ridges around
Slottsskogen give wide views over river, harbour, and sea. The city’s
geographic centre is often given as terrain near Brunnsbotorget on
Hisingen (about 57°44′N, 11°58′E). Maximum length of the municipality is
about 47 km, from the northeast border at Mollsjön in Vättlefjäll out to
Yttre Tistlarna in the outer skerries.
Hydrography: river,
harbour, and canals
The Göta älv is the city’s axis. It drains Lake
Vänern, Sweden’s largest lake, and has Scandinavia’s largest drainage
basin (about 50,200 km²). Mean discharge is around 570 m³/s. From Vänern
the river runs south through Trollhättan and Lilla Edet. Near Kungälv it
splits:
the main Göta älv continues south through Gothenburg into the
Kattegat
Nordre älv swings southwest and reaches the sea north of
Hisingen
Hisingen, Sweden’s fifth-largest island (about 199 km²),
lies between the two arms. Most of the modern port sits on Hisingen. The
Port of Gothenburg is the largest in the Nordic countries and remains
ice-free in ordinary winters because of the maritime setting and
residual Gulf Stream warmth.
The 17th-century city was laid out by
Dutch engineers on marshy ground. Canals and the remaining moat
(Vallgraven) still structure the centre. Stora Hamnkanalen splits the
old town into Inom Vallgraven and Nordstaden. Rosenlundskanalen and
other waterways continue the Dutch grid. Bridges and tunnels stitch the
two banks together, including Älvsborgsbron (the western suspension
bridge at the harbour mouth) and the Tingstad tunnel carrying the E6
under the river.
The Göta älv is also a drinking-water source. Intake
is at Lärjeholm, where Lärjeån joins the main river; water is treated at
Alelyckan. Tributaries on the left bank include Säveån and Mölndalsån.
Hisingen
North and northwest of the main river channel, Hisingen
is both industrial heartland and suburb. Volvo’s historic works, former
shipyards at Eriksberg and elsewhere, and large parts of the container
port sit here. Western Hisingen (Torslanda, Biskopsgården) and northern
Hisingen (Backa, Tuve, Säve, Kärra) mix housing, industry, and remaining
farmland. Ramberget is the classic viewpoint over the city. Keillers
Park occupies part of the hill. Hisingsparken is the city’s largest
park.
The archipelago
West of the city the coast breaks into
the Gothenburg archipelago (Göteborgs skärgård): low, ice-scoured
granite islands and skerries typical of Bohuslän. The coast is rocky
rather than sandy. Smooth pink-grey rock slabs, juniper, heather, and
wind-cut pines are the usual vegetation.
Two groups:
Southern
archipelago - part of Gothenburg Municipality, in Västergötland. Reached
mainly from Saltholmen (and some boats from Stenpiren). Most islands are
car-free. Main inhabited islands include Asperö, Brännö, Donsö, Styrsö,
Köpstadsö, Vrångö, plus smaller ones such as Galterö, Knarrholmen, and
nature-reserve Vargö. About 5,000 year-round residents and several
thousand summer residents. Styrsö is the service hub. Vrångö is the
southernmost inhabited island and is known for beaches and reserves.
Brännö is culturally famous in Swedish song. Vinga, with its lighthouse,
sits farther out and is usually treated as its own outer-skerry
destination rather than part of the regular southern ferry grid.
Northern archipelago - Öckerö Municipality, in Bohuslän. Ten inhabited
islands: Hönö, Öckerö, Fotö, Hälsö, Björkö, Kalvsund, Grötö, Hyppeln,
Källö-Knippla, and Rörö. Several are linked by bridges after a short
ferry from Lilla Varholmen on Hisingen. Hönö (especially Hönö Klåva
harbour) is the liveliest hub. These islands feel more like working
coastal communities than the quieter southern group.
The skerries
continue the same geology as the mainland ridges: hard rock, thin soil,
and a coastline of coves, bathing rocks, and small fishing harbours.
Climate
Gothenburg has a temperate oceanic climate (Köppen Cfb).
Despite a latitude near 58°N, the Gulf Stream and open Kattegat keep
winters milder than in Stockholm and summers cooler than a continental
interior. Annual precipitation is about 875-915 mm, spread through the
year, with a wetter late summer and autumn. October is often the wettest
month. Snow is common from December to March but rarely stays long in
the city centre.
Typical pattern:
January mean around 0 to 1 °C;
daytime highs near 3 °C
July mean around 18 °C; daytime highs around
22-23 °C
Summer days of 25-30 °C occur regularly; the record high is
34.1 °C (July 2019)
Winter nights often just below freezing; extreme
lows around -19 to -26 °C have been recorded historically
Midsummer
daylight about 18 hours; late December about 6.5-7 hours
The
official tourism figures often cite January average about -1 °C and July
about +18.8 °C. Winds off the Kattegat can make the harbour and outer
islands feel raw even when the thermometer is mild. Inland valleys and
higher ridges can be a degree or two colder in winter.
Green
structure and surrounding landscape
Gothenburg is unusually green for
a port city (official figures often cite around 274 m² of green space
per resident). Major parks and reserves sit on the ridges and in the
valley edges:
Slottsskogen (137 ha) - hill park with open zoo and the
Natural History Museum
Gothenburg Botanical Garden (about 175 ha) on
the Änggården ridge
Kungsparken along the canal
Garden Society
(Trädgårdsföreningen)
Änggårdsbergen nature reserve
Delsjöområdet
(large forest and lake area to the east)
Rya skog remnant woodland by
the harbour
East and northeast the landscape rises into forested
hills and lakes (Vättlefjäll, Delsjö lakes). South toward Halland the
valleys open toward Kungsbacka and a slightly milder coastal plain.
North, beyond Hisingen and Öckerö, the classic Bohuslän granite coast
continues toward Kungälv, Marstrand, and Tjörn.