Southern Ukraine is a region of Ukraine adjacent to the Black Sea.
The core territory of southern Ukraine consists of three oblasts that
border the Black Sea:
Odessa oblast
Nikolaev oblast (also commonly
referred to as Nikolaev Oblast)
Kherson oblast
Here are the most significant cities in the region:
Odesa — the largest city in southern Ukraine and the
administrative center of Odesa Oblast. It is a famous multinational port
city and one of the country's leading resort destinations. Odesa is
celebrated for its rich history, elegant 19th-century architecture,
vibrant cultural scene, and iconic landmarks such as the Potemkin
Stairs.
Kherson — the administrative center of Kherson Oblast,
situated on the banks of the Dnieper River near its estuary into the
Black Sea. The city serves as an important river port and agricultural
center, featuring a scenic waterfront promenade.
Mykolaiv (Nikolaev)
— the administrative center of Mykolaiv Oblast and a major shipbuilding
hub with a long maritime tradition. Located at the confluence of the
Southern Bug and Inhul rivers close to the Black Sea, it remains one of
Ukraine's key industrial and port cities.
Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi (also
known as Belgorod-Dniester) — a historic city in Odesa Oblast, best
known for the remarkably well-preserved Akkerman Fortress
(Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi Fortress). This large medieval fortress, dating
back to the 13th–15th centuries, is one of the oldest and most
impressive fortifications in Ukraine and a popular destination for
history enthusiasts and tourists.
Askania-Nova - biosphere steppe reserve
Vilkovo - "Ukrainian
Venice", a major center of the Danube Old Believers.
Iron Port is a
seaside resort.
Zatoka is a popular seaside resort.
Skadovsk -
seaside resort
Prehistoric and Ancient Times
Human habitation in Southern Ukraine
dates back to the Upper Paleolithic period, with archaeological evidence
of early hunter-gatherer camps, particularly bison-hunting sites. The
Black Sea coast served as an important corridor for cultural exchange
and migration, connecting Mediterranean maritime civilizations with the
vast Eurasian steppe. From the 7th–6th centuries BCE, ancient Greek
colonists established a network of city-states and trading posts along
the northern Black Sea coast, in Crimea, and around the Sea of Azov.
Notable settlements included Olbia, Chersonesus, and the cities of the
Bosporan Kingdom. These colonies facilitated extensive trade in grain,
fish, slaves, and metals, while also interacting with powerful steppe
nomadic groups.
The steppe hinterland was successively dominated by
Iranian-speaking nomadic peoples, including the Cimmerians, Scythians
(7th–3rd centuries BCE), and later the Sarmatians. Subsequent waves of
nomadic migrations brought Goths (around 200 CE), Huns, Bulgars, Avars
(5th–6th centuries), and the Turkic Khazar Khaganate (7th–9th
centuries), which controlled much of the steppe until its decline.
Medieval Period
In the mid-9th century, the Kyivan Rus' state
emerged around the Dnieper River, with its core in what is now central
and northern Ukraine. At its height under Volodymyr the Great (who
adopted Christianity in 988) and Yaroslav the Wise, Rus' extended
influence into the southern steppe regions through trade routes to
Byzantium and military campaigns against nomadic groups such as the
Pechenegs and later the Polovtsians (Cumans).
The Mongol-Tatar
invasion of 1237–1240 devastated Kyivan Rus', leading to the
fragmentation of the state. The southwestern principalities of Galicia
and Volhynia continued to exist independently for a time, prospering
under rulers such as Danylo of Galicia, but by the mid-14th century most
of southern Ukraine fell under the control of the Golden Horde. In 1475,
the Crimean Khanate emerged as a powerful successor state and became an
Ottoman vassal, remaining so until 1783.
Meanwhile, the Grand Duchy
of Lithuania incorporated large parts of central and southern Ukrainian
lands (including Kyiv, Chernihiv, and Podolia) in the 14th century,
preserving much of the local Ruthenian (Old Ukrainian) administrative
and legal system. After the 1569 Union of Lublin, most Ukrainian
territories came under direct Polish administration within the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth.
Cossack Era (16th–18th Centuries)
The 16th century saw the emergence of the Zaporozhian Cossacks, a
semi-autonomous military society centered around the fortified
Zaporozhian Sich on the lower Dnieper River. The Cossacks played a
crucial role in defending the steppe frontier against Crimean Tatar
raids and Ottoman expansion, while also conducting their own raids into
Ottoman and Crimean territories.
In 1648, Bohdan Khmelnytsky led a
major Cossack uprising against Polish rule, establishing the Cossack
Hetmanate. The subsequent period, known as "The Ruin" (1657–1687), was
marked by internal divisions, foreign interventions, and shifting
alliances. By the Truce of Andrusovo (1667), Left-Bank Ukraine (east of
the Dnieper) came under Russian protection, while Right-Bank Ukraine
remained under Polish control until the late 18th century.
A series
of Russo-Turkish wars in the 18th century gradually eroded Ottoman and
Crimean control over the Black Sea steppe. The destruction of the
Zaporozhian Sich by Russian forces in 1775 and the annexation of Crimea
in 1783 marked the end of independent Cossack and Tatar political
entities in the region.
Russian Empire and Novorossiya (Late
18th–19th Centuries)
Following victories in the Russo-Turkish wars of
1768–1774 and 1787–1792, the Russian Empire annexed the entire Black Sea
steppe and Crimea. These newly acquired territories were organized under
the administrative name "Novorossiya" (New Russia), encompassing the
gubernias of Kherson, Katerynoslav (later Yekaterinoslav), and Tavriia
(including Crimea).
Large-scale colonization and settlement followed,
with significant Ukrainian peasant migration into the region, alongside
Russian, German, Bulgarian, Jewish, and other settlers. From the 1880s
onward, the Donets Basin (Donbas) and Kryvyi Rih regions became major
centers of coal mining, iron ore extraction, and heavy industry, fueled
by foreign investment and rapid railroad construction. Cities such as
Odesa (founded 1794), Mykolaiv, Kherson, and Sevastopol developed into
important ports and industrial centers.
By the late 19th century, the
ethnic composition of many southern cities had shifted, with growing
Russian and Jewish populations, although Ukrainians remained the
majority in rural areas.
20th Century: Revolutions, Wars, and
Soviet Era
During World War I and the Russian Revolution of 1917,
Southern Ukraine became a major theater of conflict involving the
Ukrainian People's Republic, Bolshevik forces, White armies (including
Denikin's and Wrangel's), and Nestor Makhno's anarchist movement. The
region suffered severe economic disruption and famine in 1921–1923.
In the Soviet period, Southern Ukraine was heavily industrialized,
becoming the industrial heartland of the Ukrainian SSR. The region
produced the majority of Ukraine's coal, iron, manganese, and
metallurgical output. The man-made famine of 1932–1933 (Holodomor)
caused catastrophic loss of life across southern and central Ukraine.
During World War II, the area was occupied by Nazi Germany from 1941 to
1944, experiencing brutal repression, forced labor, and the Holocaust.
After the war, Crimea was transferred from the Russian SFSR to the
Ukrainian SSR in 1954 as part of administrative reorganization.
Southern Ukraine remained a key industrial, agricultural, and strategic
region of Soviet Ukraine until the dissolution of the USSR in 1991, when
it became an integral part of independent Ukraine.
For most residents of rural areas, as well as the city of Kherson, the native language is the steppe dialect of Ukrainian. The cities of Odesa, Mykolaiv and Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi are mainly Russian-speaking. In southern Bessarabia, you can most often meet those who speak Bulgarian, Gagauz and Romanian.
Southern Ukraine comprises the southernmost regions of the country,
primarily the oblasts of Odesa, Mykolaiv, Kherson, and Zaporizhzhia, as
well as the Crimean Peninsula (internationally recognized as part of
Ukraine but occupied by Russia since 2014). This area borders the Black
Sea to the south and the Sea of Azov to the southeast, forming a
strategically important coastal zone that significantly influences the
region's economy, climate, and ecology. Geographically, southern Ukraine
lies within the vast East European Plain, characterized by extensive
flatlands that gradually transition into more varied terrain near the
coastlines and in Crimea. The region boasts a total coastline of
approximately 2,782 km, including numerous bays, estuaries, lagoons, and
sandbars.
Terrain and Landforms
The dominant landscape of
southern Ukraine consists of flat steppes and low plateaus belonging to
the Black Sea-Azov Lowland and parts of the Azov Upland. Elevations
remain modest, with most of the area lying between 100–200 meters above
sea level, and the southern lowlands often dipping even lower. The
terrain features gentle undulations shaped by ancient geological
processes of the East European craton, with slightly more pronounced
relief in areas like the Donets Ridge near the eastern boundary of
Zaporizhzhia Oblast.
The Crimean Peninsula stands out as the most
topographically diverse part of southern Ukraine. Spanning roughly
27,000 square kilometers, its northern and central portions (about
three-quarters of the total area) consist of dry, largely featureless
steppe plains with limited surface water. The peninsula connects to the
mainland via the narrow Perekop Isthmus. In contrast, the southern third
rises dramatically into the Crimean Mountains — a series of three
parallel ranges composed of flat-topped limestone blocks. The highest
point, Mount Roman-Kosh, reaches 1,545 meters. These mountains create
steep, dramatic cliffs along much of the southern Black Sea coast. Other
notable features include the Syvash (a vast system of shallow,
hypersaline lagoons) and the long, narrow Arabat Spit along the Sea of
Azov.
Climate
Southern Ukraine has a predominantly continental
climate that becomes increasingly semi-arid toward the south, with a
transition to subtropical conditions along parts of the Crimean coast.
Average annual temperatures range from 11–13°C, with the warmest
conditions found near the Black Sea. Summers are hot, with July
temperatures typically reaching 27–29°C, while winters are relatively
mild, especially along the coast, where January lows average around
0–2°C in cities like Odesa and along Crimea's southern shore. The
southern Crimean coast enjoys a humid subtropical climate, supporting a
near-Mediterranean environment with mild, wet winters and dry, warm
summers — ideal for vineyards, orchards, and resort tourism.
Annual
precipitation decreases from north to south, averaging about 400 mm in
coastal areas. This relative aridity, combined with high summer
evaporation rates, contributes to drier steppe conditions. Climate
change has intensified these trends, leading to more frequent droughts,
reduced river flows in summer, and increased soil moisture deficits, all
of which significantly affect agriculture.
Hydrography: Rivers
and Coasts
Rivers are a defining feature of southern Ukraine, with
the vast majority draining into the Black Sea or Sea of Azov basins. The
Dnieper River, Ukraine's longest waterway, flows through the region and
forms an extensive delta near Kherson, creating rich wetlands and
estuaries. Other major rivers include the Southern Bug (flowing through
Mykolaiv Oblast), the Dniester (along the western edge of Odesa Oblast),
and the Danube, whose delta in the southwest (shared with Romania) is a
UNESCO biosphere reserve known for its vast reed beds, shallow lakes,
and exceptional biodiversity.
The Black Sea coastline features a mix
of sandy beaches, low cliffs, and sheltered bays, while the Sea of Azov
coast is generally shallower, with numerous lagoons and spits. Major
natural harbors include those at Odesa and (in Crimea) Sevastopol. The
region's coastal geography has historically made it a vital hub for
maritime trade, fishing, and port activities.
Soils and
Vegetation
Southern Ukraine is renowned for some of the world's most
fertile soils. The central and northern parts of the region feature
classic chernozem (black earth) soils, while the southeast transitions
into chestnut soils. Closer to the Black Sea coast, soils become
increasingly salinized due to high evaporation and limited rainfall.
These fertile soils support large-scale agriculture, particularly grain
production, earning the region its reputation as part of Europe's
"breadbasket." However, decades of intensive farming have caused
widespread soil erosion, compaction, and degradation.
Natural
vegetation is dominated by steppe grasslands, consisting of
drought-resistant grasses, herbs, and scattered shrubs. In the
southernmost coastal zones and especially along Crimea's southern
slopes, a more diverse, subtropical flora appears, including evergreen
shrubs, vineyards, orchards, and Mediterranean-type vegetation.
Unique Features and Environmental Considerations
Among the region's
distinctive elements are the karst landscapes of the Crimean Mountains
(featuring caves, gorges, and sinkholes), the hypersaline Syvash lagoons
(used historically for salt production), and the extensive wetland
systems of the Danube and Dnieper deltas. The combination of vast open
steppes, productive river systems, and scenic coastlines has long shaped
the area's cultural, economic, and strategic importance.