Sarajevo

Sarajevo (Bos. Sarajevo, Turkish Saraybosna) is the capital and seat of government of Bosnia-Herzegovina and the Federation of Bosnia and Herzegovina (FBiH) and is located in southern Europe.

 

Description

Sarajevo has some sights, e.g. old mosques or churches. Sarajevo has the oldest preserved (renovated) mosque in the country (Serbia, BiH, Croatia etc.) It is worth a visit! Also for non-Muslims!

 

Sights

Churches
There are several churches worth seeing in the old town.

After Prague, Sarajevo has the largest Jewish cemetery in Europe. The oldest tombstone is from the 17th century. The site is on a steep slope and can hardly be visited by disabled people.

Castles, chateaux and palaces
"Yellow Fortress" In the vicinity of the old town there is the small castle "Yellow Fortress". From here you have a wonderful view in all directions of Sarajevo. There are two old city gates with a connecting wall nearby. In one of the gates is the Museum for Ilije Izetbegovic.

Buildings
The 30 meter high clock tower is located in the old town. The building can only be viewed from the outside. Within walking distance, on a square, is Sebilj, a popular postcard motif, a fountain from the Ottoman era.

The buildings of the university and especially the main post office on the riverside are worth seeing. The main post office is not very impressive from the outside, but has a large, glass-covered and elegantly furnished counter hall.

The old market hall, called Markale, is still in operation today. During the Bosnian War in the 1990s, numerous people were violently killed here. A memorial plaque nearby reminds of this.

Monuments
The former National Gallery has been converted into a memorial. A visit is definitely worthwhile.

Museums
Tunnel Museum ("Tunnel of Hope"). The tunnel museum is worth a visit. It is a little hidden near the airport in the district of Butmir. You can see and walk a (very) short piece of the tunnel, which was the only (secret) land connection to the outside world during the siege of Sarajevo in the Bosnian War. In a former home there is a small, well-equipped museum with numerous objects and photos. Visitors are shown a short film which, without extensive explanations, shows very impressively and oppressively the events of the war in the city and the tunnel construction and its use. Note for physically disabled people: the museum and tunnel are not barrier-free

Historical Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Zmaja od Bosne 5. Tel .: +387 (0) 33 226 098. The Historical Museum is also well worth a visit. It is located opposite the American embassy and the Holiday Inn hotel, which was very famous from the war days. In a dilapidated building, different periods of the country's history are presented in two sections. One section contains numerous objects, documents and photos from Sarajevo at the time of the Bosnian War in the 1990s. The exhibition wants to largely dispense with a historical classification, but presents everyday life and war events very tangible and impressive from the point of view of ordinary people. The second section deals with the older history of the country up to World War II. There is also a photo exhibition with images of war, which in turn clearly focuses on individual people.
Museum of contemporary Art Sarajevo (Ars Aevi), Terezija bb. Tel .: +387 (0) 33 216 927. This museum shows exhibits by well-known international artists with its exhibition Ars Aevi. It is located in a building that belongs to the Olympic sports complex "Skenderija". The idea for the collection was born during the siege in the Bosnian War and can rely on broad support, among others refer to UNESCO. The exhibition is still under construction, but can already present works by over 100 well-known artists, including Beuys, Tony Cragg and others. A new museum building elsewhere was designed by Renzo Piano, but not yet started.
Jewish Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina. This museum is located in the old synagogue. The relatively small but impressive exhibition is worth seeing. It is dedicated to religious objects, the Jewish history of Sarajevo and the persecution during the Second World War.
Museum of Ilije Izetbegovic. This small museum for Ilije Izetbegovic is located in an old city gate near the Yellow Fortress, whose tomb is located in a cemetery a little downhill.

 

Museum of War Childhood (Muzej ratnog djetinjstva), 30-32, Logavina, Sarajevo, 71000. Tel .: +387 (0) 33 535 558.

Streets and squares
Latin bridge (Latinska ćuprija) (Latinska ćuprija). The Latin Bridge is widely known for the fact that the Austro-Hungarian heir to the throne Franz Ferdinand and his wife Sophie were killed on June 28, 1914. The attack is considered to be one of the triggers of the First World War. The architecture of the bridge is worth a look, and there is a museum next door that commemorates the attack.

Parks
As far as travel planning allows, you should go to a viewing platform above the city at sunset.

 

Getting here

1 Tourist information, Trgovke (at the south end of the main square with the Sebilj Fountain). The only "official" tourist info. All the other shops with information signs, which are frequent in the old Town, are private agencies that, first of all, want to sell their tours. Open: sporadically.

By plane
Sarajevo Airport (International airport Sarajevo, IATA: SJJ; in the suburb of Butmir, a good 6 km to the city center) . renovated in 2001 and extended in 2021. From the German-speaking countries there are (as of autumn 2021) several times a week direct flights with Austrian Airlines from Vienna, with Lufthansa from Frankfurt, with Eurowings from Cologne / Bonn and Stuttgart and with Swiss from Zurich. In the winter months, flights to and from Sarajevo are occasionally cancelled due to dense ground fog.
The airport is connected to the city center by express buses to Baščaršija from Centrotrans (tickets from the driver, at the kiosk in the airport or via their app), which are somewhat irregular, depending on the day of the week 6-10 times/tgl., traffic. One piece of luggage is free of charge in the standard price of 5 KM, each additional one also costs 5 KM. It also runs the city bus line 103.

More comfortable but not immune from possible fraud attempts are the numerous taxis, whose stand is at Terminal B.

By train
Main Railway Station (Glavna željeznička stanica u Sarajevu) . Large, impressive late Socialist hall from a time when a functioning railway operation was a matter of course. From Banja Luka or Mostar it is recommended to arrive by modern Talgo trains. The connections are very inexpensive. Especially the route from Mostar to Sarajevo through the Neretva Valley is beautiful. One train per day should go from/to Bihać. Unfortunately, the train traffic is severely restricted in 2022, you have to make sure every time whether the selected connection is also running.

From the central station you can easily get to the city center with the regular trams.

By bus
Buses run daily from many European cities to Sarajevo all year round, e.g. from numerous German and Austrian cities. Furthermore, Sarajevo can of course be easily reached from Croatia.

Bus station Sarajevo (on the M18; next to the main railway station. Trams to the city center on the forecourt). Central transfer point also for regional buses of the company Centrotrans and intercity buses. It makes sense that the booking offices of other long-distance bus companies (including international routes) are located in the ticket hall of the nearby main station. Without waiting room or luggage storage. No timetable notices, but departure signs on the treadmills on the respective bus platform. International departures on higher numbers. Overall, a rotten affair. Cafés in the bus platform area, there are also chargeable, not very appealing toilets.

Istočno Bus Station (8 km outside, reachable by bus line 103 from Trg Austrije in 30min.). Buses from Montenegro, Serbia and Republika Srpska. Even more dilapidated than the other bus station. No ATM or currency exchange for arrivals, dingy café, taxis are rare. A "station tax" is required on departure. You should insist on a receipt that shows "1KM" as an amount to prevent the money from seeping into corrupt employees.

On the street
From the southwest you can reach Sarajevo via the European Route E73, which branches off from the E65 along the coast at Ploče in Croatia and leads to Sarajevo via Mostar. From the north you can also get to Sarajevo via the E73 via Zenica or the E661 via Banja-Luka. The latter two roads also come from Croatia. To the east, towards Serbia, the E761 stretches via Višegrad.

 

Around the city

In der Stadt gibt es ein gut ausgebautes Netz von Straßenbahnen, Bussen und Elektrobussen, betrieben von JKP GRAS Sarajevo, wobei für Touristen insbesondere die Straßenbahnlinie(n) von Bedeutung sein dürften. Zwar gibt es verschiedene Liniennummern, im wesentlichen verläuft die einzige Strecke zwischen der 1 Wendeschleife um das Altstadtviertel an der Ost-West-Hauptstraße M18 bis zum Hauptbahnhof bzw. dem 2 Endhalt Malta-Straße wenige hundert Meter weiter. ((Stand: Jun 2020) sind auf der 1 km langen Verlängerung bis zum Gradski Saobraćaj-Depot die Schienen herausgerissen.)

Die meisten Trambahnen sind weder behindertengerecht noch für Kinderwagen geeignet und auch nicht klimatisiert, sollen aber in den nächsten Jahren zumindest teilweise ersetzt werden. Die Busflotte wurden in den letzten Jahren bereits deutlich modernisiert.

Weder Fahr - noch Linienpläne existieren, auch entsprechende Landkartenapps am Smartphone versagen hier. Es gibt jedoch hierfür eine App namens moovit. An den Bussen sind nur Anfangs - und Endhalte der Linien angeschrieben. Abgesehen von der Trambahn sind öffentliche Verkehrsmittel für Besucher nur benutzbar, wenn man genau weiß wo es hingehen soll.

Es gibt in Sarajevo keine Fahrkartenautomaten, die Tickets (Einzel-, Mehrfach - und Tageskarten) müssen entweder an Kiosken oder direkt beim Fahrer gekauft und soort beim Einstieg entwertet werden - es gibt zahlreiche und rigorose Kontrollen. Für Einheimische wurde zuletzsche ein digitales Ticket in Form einer Chipkarte eingeführt.

Die Innenstadt kann gut zu Fuß erkundet werden, die Außenbezirke befinden sich jedoch auf einem steilen Berghang.

Taxis
Éberall in der Innenstadt trifft man auf Taxis, die auf Fahrgäste warten. Die Preise sind von der Taxiinnung einheitlich festgesetzt. Das Einschalten des Taxameters ist Pflicht. Price (Stand: Jul 2022): Grundgebühr 1.90 KM, 1.20 KM/hr, 12.00 KM/hr. Wartezeit.

Taxiruf (free Anfahrt): +387 33 660 666; +387 33 660 970; +387 33 1515; +387 61 230 666; +387 61 230 970

 

History

Prehistoric Times
The history of Sarajevo begins in the Neolithic period with the Butmir culture, one of the most significant prehistoric settlements in the region. Located in what is now the Ilidža suburb, this culture thrived around 5000–3000 BC, thanks to abundant flint resources and the Željeznica River. The Butmir people are particularly noted for their advanced ceramics, which featured intricate designs and were widely traded. Archaeological evidence from sites like Butmir includes tools, pottery, and evidence of early agriculture and animal husbandry.
By around 2400 BC, the Illyrians, an Indo-European tribal group, conquered the area. Key Illyrian sites in Sarajevo include the fortified hill of Debelo Brdo and other defensive structures near Mount Trebević, indicating a society focused on warfare and territorial control. The Illyrian tribe known as the Daesitiates dominated the Sarajevo valley and resisted Roman expansion fiercely. Their revolt in 9 AD was eventually suppressed by Emperor Tiberius, marking the beginning of Roman rule in the region.
Under the Romans, Sarajevo became part of the province of Dalmatia. A major Roman road ran through the Miljacka valley, connecting coastal Adriatic cities to the inland Pannonia region. The thermal springs in Ilidža likely hosted a Roman settlement called Aquae Sulphurae, which served as a spa and military outpost. Roman artifacts, such as roads, aqueducts, and villas, underscore the area's importance as a strategic and economic hub during this era.

Middle Ages
The arrival of Slavic tribes in the 7th century AD transformed the demographic landscape of the Sarajevo valley. These South Slavs, ancestors of modern Bosnians, Serbs, and Croats, displaced or assimilated the remaining Illyrian-Roman populations. By the High Middle Ages, the region was sparsely populated but part of the medieval Bosnian state, specifically the province of Vrhbosna. This area, possibly centered in what is now central Sarajevo or near Ilidža, may have been a significant settlement, though it was likely destroyed during invasions between the 13th and 15th centuries.
Christian influences were evident: In 1238, a cathedral dedicated to Saint Paul was constructed, potentially in the Skenderija neighborhood, as evidenced by 12th-century Roman columns discovered there. Disciples of Saints Cyril and Methodius established a church near Vrelo Bosne, the source of the Bosna River. Vrhbosna itself was mentioned as a Slavic citadel from 1263 onward, serving as a seat for Bosnian bans (rulers) and a marketplace. However, it fell to the Ottoman Empire in 1429 after minimal resistance, with the Hodidjed fortress being one of the last holdouts. The medieval period in Sarajevo was marked by a mix of Slavic paganism transitioning to Christianity, small-scale trade, and frequent conflicts with neighboring powers like Hungary and the Ottoman advance.

Early Ottoman Era
Sarajevo's modern foundation dates to 1461, when Ottoman governor Isa-Beg Ishaković established the city on the site of the village of Brodac. He exchanged lands to develop the area, building essential infrastructure including the Emperor's Mosque (Careva Džamija, named after Sultan Mehmed II), a marketplace, public bath, bridge, hostel, and governor's palace (saray), from which the city's name derives (likely from "saray ovası," meaning "palace plain"). This marked the beginning of Sarajevo's rapid growth as an Ottoman stronghold.
The city attracted diverse populations: Muslim converts, Orthodox Christians, and merchants from the Republic of Ragusa (Dubrovnik). In the late 15th century, Sephardic Jews fleeing the Spanish Inquisition settled here, bringing cultural treasures like the Sarajevo Haggadah, an illuminated manuscript that survives as a symbol of the city's multicultural heritage. Under Gazi Husrev-beg in the 16th century, Sarajevo flourished further; he constructed over 100 mosques, a grand library, the iconic clock tower (Sahat Kula), and expanded the Baščaršija marketplace. By the mid-17th century, with a population exceeding 80,000, Sarajevo was the largest city in the Balkans after Istanbul, serving as a vital trade center along caravan routes and a hub for crafts like metalworking and textiles.

Late Ottoman Era
The late 17th and 18th centuries brought challenges. Following the Ottoman defeat at the Battle of Vienna in 1683, Prince Eugene of Savoy raided and sacked Sarajevo in 1697, causing widespread destruction and population decline. Chroniclers like Mula Mustafa Bašeskija documented the era's cultural life, including libraries, schools, and religious tensions between Sufi dervishes and conservative Kadizadelis. Plagues ravaged the city—killing 15,000 out of 20,000 residents in 1762 and 8,000 in 1783—while fires and floods, such as those in 1788 and 1791, repeatedly damaged the bazaar and Miljacka Riverfront.
In the 19th century, as Ottoman power waned, Sarajevo became a focal point for reform and rebellion. Serbia's independence in the early 1800s loosened ties to Istanbul. Bosnian captain Husein-Kapetan Gradaščević led a push for autonomy, culminating in the 1832 Battle of Sarajevo Field, where betrayal ended his campaign. He famously lamented, "This is the last day of our freedom." The period saw increasing nationalist stirrings among Bosnian Muslims, Serbs, and Croats, setting the stage for the end of Ottoman rule.

Austria-Hungary
The Eastern Crisis of 1875–1878, including the Herzegovina Uprising and Russo-Turkish War, led to the Treaty of Berlin in 1878, which placed Bosnia under Austro-Hungarian administration. Resistance was fierce: Muslim leaders like Hadži Lojo formed a People's Government, but Austro-Hungarian forces under Josip Filipović captured Sarajevo on August 19, 1878, after intense fighting that killed hundreds. Executions followed, targeting Muslim resisters.
Habsburg rule (1878–1918) modernized Sarajevo through industrialization, new roads, and Western architecture, especially after a 1879 fire allowed rebuilding in styles like neo-Gothic (e.g., Cathedral of the Sacred Heart) and Secession. The city was annexed in 1908, growing to 52,000 residents by 1910. Politically, it became a hotbed of South Slav nationalism. The 1914 assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand by Gavrilo Princip in Sarajevo sparked World War I, leading to the empire's collapse and Sarajevo's integration into the Kingdom of Yugoslavia in 1919.

Yugoslavia
In the interwar Kingdom of Yugoslavia, Sarajevo served as the administrative center of the Drina Banovina but saw limited investment, remaining somewhat peripheral. World War II brought devastation: German forces bombed and occupied the city on April 15, 1941, incorporating it into the Nazi puppet Independent State of Croatia (NDH) under the Ustaše regime. The 1941 population was diverse—34% Muslim, 29% Catholic Croat, 25% Orthodox Serb, 10% Jewish—but Ustaše policies targeted Serbs, Jews, and Romani for extermination, while Muslims faced mixed treatment.
The Sarajevo Resolution of 1941 condemned persecutions, but the Holocaust nearly wiped out the Jewish community. The Grand Mufti of Jerusalem, Amin al-Husseini, visited in 1943 to recruit for the SS Handschar Division. Partisan forces, led by Vladimir "Valter" Perić, liberated the city on April 6, 1945.
Post-war, under Tito's Socialist Yugoslavia, Sarajevo became Bosnia's capital and experienced rapid growth. Investments in industry and housing expanded suburbs like Novi Grad, pushing the population from 115,000 in 1945 to 429,672 by 1991. The 1984 Winter Olympics symbolized prosperity, with new venues boosting tourism and infrastructure.

Modern Era
Following Bosnia's 1992 independence referendum, Sarajevo became the capital amid escalating ethnic tensions. Peaceful protests turned deadly when sniper fire killed demonstrator Suada Dilberović. The Bosnian War's Siege of Sarajevo (1992–1996), the longest in modern history, involved Serb forces encircling the city, cutting off supplies, and bombarding it daily—averaging 329 shell impacts, peaking at 3,777. Over 12,000 died, 50,000 were wounded, and landmarks like the National Library (burned in 1992, destroying millions of books) and Gazi Husrev-beg's Mosque were ravaged.
The 1995 Dayton Accords ended the siege, but prompted a Serb exodus. Reconstruction, aided by international funds, cleared ruins and mines by 2003. Modern Sarajevo has seen urban renewal with skyscrapers like the Avaz Twist Tower (the Balkans' tallest) and Sarajevo City Center. It hosted the 2019 European Youth Olympic Winter Festival and rebuilt the Trebević cable car in 2018. Despite earthquake aftershocks in 2019–2021, the city aims to recover its pre-war population, potentially reaching one million by the late 21st century, blending its Ottoman, Habsburg, and socialist legacies into a vibrant, multicultural hub.

 

Geography

Sarajevo, the capital and largest city of Bosnia and Herzegovina, is nestled in the heart of the Balkans in Southeastern Europe. Positioned near the geometric center of the country's roughly triangular shape, it lies within the historical region of Bosnia proper. The city occupies the Sarajevo Valley, a long, narrow basin formed by the Dinaric Alps, at an average elevation of about 518 meters (1,699 feet) above sea level, with the city proper sitting slightly higher at around 550 meters (1,804 feet).

Topography and Landforms
The topography of Sarajevo is defined by its dramatic alpine setting, characterized by rugged, forested hills and steep slopes that encircle the valley like a natural amphitheater. The Dinaric Alps, a vast mountain chain stretching across the western Balkans, dominate the landscape, creating a bowl-shaped terrain that has historically influenced settlement patterns, defense strategies, and urban development. The valley itself was once a lush, expansive green space with fertile soils, but post-World War II urbanization has transformed much of it into a densely built environment, with buildings climbing up the hillsides and creating steeply inclined streets that can challenge both residents and visitors.
The hilly terrain results in significant elevation variations within the city limits, from the valley floor around 500 meters to over 1,000 meters in the surrounding peri-urban areas. This topography also contributes to microclimates, with higher elevations experiencing cooler temperatures and more precipitation. Urban forests and green spaces, such as Veliki Park (Great Park) in the city center, provide pockets of relief amid the built-up areas, though wartime destruction in the 1990s led to significant deforestation, followed by ongoing replanting efforts.

Hydrography
Water features play a central role in Sarajevo's geography, with the Miljacka River serving as the city's primary waterway and a defining element of its layout. Originating from the Vrelo Miljacke spring about 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) south of Pale at the foothills of Mount Jahorina, the Miljacka flows eastward through the valley for approximately 21 kilometers (13 miles) before traversing Sarajevo from east to west.
Within the city, it is channeled between stone embankments and crossed by numerous historic bridges, eventually meeting the larger Bosna River to the west. The Bosna's source, Vrelo Bosne, lies near the suburb of Ilidža and is a popular natural attraction featuring clear springs and parklands. Smaller tributaries, such as the Koševski Potok stream, add to the network of waterways that drain the surrounding mountains, contributing to occasional flooding risks during heavy rains or snowmelt. These rivers not only shape the urban morphology—dividing neighborhoods and influencing bridge placements—but also support local ecosystems and recreational activities.

Mountains
Sarajevo is encircled by five major peaks, often referred to as the Olympic Mountains due to their role in hosting events during the 1984 Winter Olympics. These mountains, part of the Dinaric Alps, provide a stunning backdrop and serve as barriers that isolate the valley somewhat from external weather patterns.
The Dinaric Alps are known for their karst landscapes, featuring limestone formations, caves, and plateaus that extend from Slovenia in the north to Albania in the south. In Sarajevo's vicinity, the mountains support winter sports, hiking, and biodiversity, though they also pose challenges like landslides and seismic activity in this tectonically active region.

Climate
Sarajevo experiences an oceanic climate (Köppen: Cfb) that borders on humid continental (Dfb), moderated by its proximity to the Adriatic Sea but tempered by the southern mountain barriers. The city enjoys four distinct seasons with evenly distributed precipitation. Annual average temperature is around 10°C (50°F), with January as the coldest month at -0.5°C (31.1°F) and July the warmest at 19.7°C (67.5°F). Extremes include a record high of 41.0°C (105.8°F) in August 2008 and a low of -26.2°C (-15.2°F) in January 1942. Precipitation totals about 949.5 mm (37.4 inches) yearly, spread over 75 rainy days, with moderate snowfall averaging 53 days per year—peaking in December and January. Winds are generally mild at 28–48 km/h (17–30 mph), and sunshine hours reach approximately 1,769 annually. Cloud cover averages 45%, with December being the gloomiest at 75%. Temperature inversions in the valley can trap pollutants, exacerbating air quality issues during winter.

Urban Geography
The city's urban layout spans 141.5 km² (54.6 sq mi) for the proper area, expanding to 351.2 km² (135.6 sq mi) urban and 1,041.5 km² (402.1 sq mi) metropolitan. Divided into four main municipalities—Centar (Center), Novi Grad (New Town), Novo Sarajevo (New Sarajevo), and Stari Grad (Old Town)—Sarajevo's development follows the valley's east-west axis along the Miljacka. The historic core in Stari Grad features Ottoman-era architecture around Baščaršija, while newer districts like Novi Grad reflect socialist-era expansion with high-rises and industrial zones. Post-1990s war administrative divisions split some areas into Istočno Sarajevo in Republika Srpska. Green spaces like urban parks and peri-urban forests mitigate density, but hilly terrain necessitates infrastructure like trams, trolleybuses, and the Trebević cable car for connectivity.

Environmental Aspects
Environmentally, Sarajevo faces challenges from its geography, including air pollution amplified by the valley's inversion-prone topography. In 2010, average PM2.5 levels were estimated at 30 μg/m³—three times the WHO guideline—leading to health concerns and occasional traffic restrictions. Urban greenery, damaged during the siege in the 1990s, has seen regeneration efforts, with studies highlighting the recovery of forests and parks. Natural landmarks like river sources attract tourism, but pollution and urban sprawl pose ongoing threats to biodiversity and water quality. Overall, Sarajevo's geography blends natural beauty with urban resilience, making it a unique alpine valley metropolis.