Žďár nad Sázavou (former names of parts before the merger The
town of Žďár and Žďár Chateau, German Saar and Saar-Vorschloss,
Latin Sar) is a town located in the Vysočina Region, Žďár nad
Sázavou District, the core of Moravia, the border area extends
beyond the historic Czech-Moravian border to Bohemia. Žďár is
located 30 km northeast of Jihlava. Approximately 21,000 inhabitants
live here.
The town is located in the central part of the
Bohemian-Moravian Highlands in Žďárské vrchy, with its center on the
river Sázava. It is the highest district town in the Czech Republic
and is crossed by the main European watershed separating the North
and Black Sea basins. A large part of the city extends into the
Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area.
It is home to the
former important Cistercian monastery of the Well of the Blessed
Virgin Mary. In the Baroque period, his abbot Václav Vejmluva had a
number of buildings in the city and its surroundings built or
restored. Their architect was Jan Blažej Santini-Aichel. One of
them, the pilgrimage church of St. John of Nepomuk is listed as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. After the abolition of the monastery in
1784, the core of the monastery was used as a castle and the whole
area is often called.
Pilgrimage Church of Saint John of Nepomuk at Zelená Hora
The
Pilgrimage Church of Saint John of Nepomuk, situated on Zelená Hora
(Green Mountain) just outside the town, is arguably the most iconic
landmark in Žďár nad Sázavou. Designed by the Bohemian architect Jan
Santini Aichel, it represents his final masterpiece, blending
Borrominesque Baroque with Gothic elements to create a unique
architectural style. Construction began in 1719, prompted by the
discovery of the incorruptible tongue of Saint John of Nepomuk in St.
Vitus Cathedral in Prague, an event that inspired Václav Vejmluva, the
abbot of the local Cistercian monastery, to commission the church as a
tribute. Vejmluva, a devoted follower of the saint, collaborated closely
with Santini, incorporating symbolic elements from Cabala and
numerology. The church was consecrated in 1720 after the saint's
beatification and fully completed by 1727, though it faced criticism in
its time for its unconventional design—described in 1886 by Friedrich
Radnitzký as a "visually mysterious phenomenon."
Architecturally, the
church is built on a central circular plan emphasizing the number five,
symbolizing the five stars that legendarily appeared over Saint John's
body after his martyrdom. This motif is evident in the five triangular
and five oval chapels alternating around the perimeter, evoking a Gothic
cathedral's choir with buttresses. The interior features a cylindrical
central space with ogive arches, supported by ten pillars, and stucco
decorations mimicking Gothic rib vaults. Light plays a pivotal role in
the design, with indirect illumination in the center creating a sense of
divine presence, while the side walkways are brightly lit, giving the
illusion that the structure is supported by light itself. The main
altar, on the eastern side, includes carvings of five angels and the
Four Evangelists by sculptor Jan Pavel Čechpauer (1725–1727), with a
central statue of Saint John by Řehoř Theny. Surrounding the church is a
ring cloister divided into ten sections by five chapels and five gates,
originally topped with pylons symbolizing light and eternity.
The
site endured significant damage from a fire in 1784, which destroyed the
roof and ambulatory, but was restored starting in 1792 under conditions
that ended its role as an active pilgrimage site and relocated the
town's cemetery there (now mostly unused and being cleared to restore
the Baroque appearance). It became state property in 1953 and was
returned to the Catholic Church in 2014. In 1994, it was inscribed as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site under criterion (iv) for its innovative
architecture, covering 0.64 hectares with a 627.9-hectare buffer zone.
Its cultural significance lies in its symbolic depth, tying Baroque
innovation to the saint's 14th-century legacy, and it continues to
attract pilgrims and tourists for its ethereal design and historical
ties to regional devotion.
Žďár nad Sázavou Chateau
The Žďár
nad Sázavou Chateau, originally founded as a Cistercian monastery in
1252, stands as a testament to the town's medieval origins and its
evolution through centuries of turmoil and renovation. The monastery was
briefly abolished in 1606 but restored in 1638, only to be attacked by
Swedish forces during the Thirty Years' War in 1645 and ultimately
destroyed by fire before its final abolition in 1784. Converted into a
castle in 1614, the complex was redesigned with Baroque influences by
Jan Santini Aichel, who also worked on nearby landmarks. Today, owned by
the Kinský family, it serves cultural purposes and houses the innovative
New Generation Museum, an audiovisual experience using state-of-the-art
technology to explore the site's history and regional
architecture—earning it the title of the most creative museum in Central
Europe.
Architecturally, the chateau retains elements of its monastic
past, including the Basilica of Our Lady of the Assumption and St.
Nicholas from the original monastery. Visitors can take themed tours
such as "Following in Santini's Footsteps," which highlights the
architect's contributions, or "Behind the Monastery Walls," delving into
13th-century Cistercian life. The complex is open Tuesday to Sunday from
9 a.m. to 5 p.m., making it a hub for understanding the town's religious
and architectural heritage. Its significance extends beyond history, as
it connects to the broader Cistercian landscape and Santini's innovative
designs, complementing the nearby UNESCO site.
Church of Saint
Procopius
Located in the town center, the Church of Saint Procopius
is a historic parish church first documented in 1391 and rebuilt in the
late Gothic style around 1560. Its prominent tower is accessible to the
public, offering panoramic views of the surrounding area. Adjacent to it
is the Baroque Chapel of Saint Barbara, constructed in 1729, which adds
to the site's layered architectural history. This church reflects the
town's enduring religious tradition, serving as a community focal point
and a reminder of its medieval roots amid later Baroque additions.
Old Town Hall and Plague Column
The Old Town Hall, situated on
the main square, is a Renaissance building from the turn of the 16th and
17th centuries, later enhanced with a Neoclassical façade in the 18th
century. It exemplifies the town's civic architecture and historical
governance. Dominating the square is the Plague Column (Pestsäule), a
Baroque monument typical of Central European towns, erected to
commemorate victims of plagues and invoke divine protection. These
elements together form the heart of Žďár nad Sázavou's historic core,
blending administrative and memorial functions in a picturesque setting.
Other Notable Attractions
Beyond the primary landmarks, Žďár nad
Sázavou offers additional sites that enhance its appeal. The Lower
Cemetery (Dolni Hrbitov), located near Zelená Hora, was established
post-1784 fire and features historic graves, though efforts are underway
to restore the area's original Baroque landscape. The Baroque Bridge
provides a scenic crossing over local waterways, showcasing 18th-century
engineering. For modern interests, the Museum of Computer Technology,
exhibited by the local vocational school, traces the evolution of
computing, while the Model Railway attraction offers a miniature
representation of regional landscapes. Recreational areas like Pilák
provide outdoor activities around a lake, ideal for nature enthusiasts.
These sites collectively highlight the town's diverse offerings, from
historical depth to contemporary culture.
Medieval
Around 1100, a market settlement stood
near today's chateau complex on the country's trade route at the
ford across the Sázava River. After the nearby Cistercian monastery
of Studnice Blessed Virgin Mary was founded nearby by Mr. Boček of
Obřany in 1252, the settlement was moved to the area of the
so-called Old Town (Klafar, Žďár nad Sázavou 3) and shortly
afterwards to the places around the church of St. Prokop (today's
historic city center). In its present place, Žďár was built as a
market town, and in 1293 the court (under whose jurisdiction the
monastery estate fell) was first mentioned, sitting in Žďár. During
the Hussite wars, the monastery was burned down and since then,
despite the generous help in the restoration of George of Poděbrady,
its importance has declined.
Early modern age
In 1588,
Duke Charles II exchanged. Minsterberský, the founder of the Žďár
monastery, this estate with the Olomouc archbishopric for small
estates in the vicinity of the Sternberg estate, which belonged to
him. Žďár thus became the manor estate of the bishops of Olomouc,
against which the monastery defended itself with the generous
support of the inhabitants of the town. During the disputes, the
manor first passed into the table estates of the diocese and later
the bishop of Olomouc, Cardinal Francis of Dietrichstein, acquired
it into his personal property. In 1607, Žďár was promoted to a town.
In 1614, Cardinal František Dietrichštejn abolished the Cistercian
monastery due to a dispute over the ownership of the Žďár estate,
and after the monks left, it was transformed into a secular
residence, which he even stopped in 1617.
After the Battle of
White Mountain, the cardinal inhabited part of the now Franciscan
castle grounds. In 1638, the Cistercian order bought the Žďár estate
from Maximilian, Prince of Dietrichštejn (nephew and heir of the
late cardinal in 1636), and a year later the Cistercians returned to
Žďár. In 1642 the monastery was attacked by the Swedes. However, the
monastery was defended by the brothers and burghers. The Swedes
returned in 1647 and plundered the city. The greatest development of
the monastery, the town and its surroundings was achieved in the
18th century by Abbot Václav Vejmluva, who, among other things,
commissioned Jan Blažej Santini Aichl to rebuild the burnt-out
monastery. The monastery also became an important cultural center at
this time. The abbot even tried to establish an academy for the
education of noble youth.
Enlightenment
During the
Josephine reforms, the monastery was abolished in 1784 at the
request of the then abbot and well-known Enlightenment scientist and
plagiarist Otto Steinbach of Kranichštejn and remained only the
administrative center of the estate. Some buildings passed into
private hands, the core of the monastery was later rebuilt into a
castle, which changed several owners. Today it is owned by
Constantin Kinský, a descendant of the aristocratic Kinský family,
the last owners of the chateau before nationalization after the
Second World War.
After 1848, Žďár became the seat of the
district court (it became the center of the judicial district, the
center of the political district was Nové Město na Moravě).
In the years 1898–1905, the town acquired a railway connection with
the local Německý Brod – Brno railway.
In 1928, President
Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk visited the city. The film from this visit
was a model for a Czechoslovak stamp with a girl in a Kyjov costume
issued in 1938.
After second World War
In 1949, the town
of Žďár was merged with the village of Žďár Chateau and renamed Žďár
nad Sázavou. In the same year, it became a district town and an
important industrial center after the construction of Žďárské
strojírny a slévárny (ŽĎAS). This was a continuation of the
tradition of the local ironworks, whose origins are recorded at the
turn of the 14th and 15th centuries, when the monastery hammer was
founded. After the construction of ŽĎAS, the city expanded
significantly. In the 1970s, the city administration decided that
Žďár nad Sázavou should be a "modern socialist city" and therefore
ordered an extensive redevelopment of the city. Old houses (often
valuable historical buildings) in the city center were replaced by
prefabricated houses and shopping centers.
From 1994 to 2010,
Jaromír Brychta served as mayor; from 2010 to 2014, Dagmar Zvěřinová
held this position. Between 2014 and 2018, the mayor of the city was
Mgr. Zdeněk Navrátil from the association Žďár - a living town and
deputy mayor Josef Klement from KDU-ČSL. Today, the mayor is Martin
Mrkos, also on behalf of ŽŽM.
Topography and Elevation
The town sits in the Křižanov Highlands
(Křižanovská vrchovina), a subunit of the broader Bohemian-Moravian
Highlands (Českomoravská vrchovina). This places it in a hilly,
undulating upland landscape characterized by gentle slopes, rounded
hills, and shallow valleys.
Town center elevation — ~580 m a.s.l.
Municipal average — ~606 m.
Minimum — ~507 m.
Maximum — up to 781
m (broader surroundings); the highest point within the municipal
territory is Holý kopec at 665 m.
Žďár nad Sázavou ranks among
Czechia's highest towns with over 10,000 inhabitants due to its
elevation.
Hydrology
The historic core lies on a hill on the
left bank of the Sázava River, which flows through the town and gives it
its name. The area features numerous artificial fishponds (rybníky), a
hallmark of the Vysočina Region's traditional carp-farming landscape.
The largest water body is the Pilská Reservoir (Pilská vodní nádrž /
Pilák), built 1959–1962 on the upper Sázava north of the town center.
Surface area — ~57.6 ha.
Max depth — ~6.7 m.
Primary uses —
recreation (swimming, boating, beaches), fishing, flood protection, and
formerly industrial water supply.
Žďárské vrchy Protected
Landscape Area (CHKO Žďárské vrchy)
The town lies near the center of
this protected landscape area, declared in 1970 and covering ~486 km²
(some sources cite up to 715 km²). It forms the northwest part of the
Upper Svratka Highlands.
Highest peak — Devět skal at 836 m
a.s.l. (other notable peaks: Křovina 830 m, Křivý javor 824 m).
The
area is a major watershed and source region for rivers including the
Sázava (flowing through Žďár) and Svratka.
Landscape — densely
forested rolling hills with distinctive crystalline rock outcrops and
tors (products of weathering of Bohemian Massif rocks).
Forest cover
— predominantly spruce, with beech, fir, larch, and pine.
Many rock
formations are protected as natural monuments.
Geology and
Geomorphology
The underlying geology belongs to the Bohemian Massif
(Variscan crystalline basement) — primarily granites, gneisses, and
other metamorphic rocks. Pleistocene periglacial and glacial influences,
followed by fluvial erosion, shaped the rounded hills, tors, and
valleys. The Žďárské vrchy contain some of the most characteristic
crystalline rock landforms in the Bohemian-Moravian Highlands.
Climate
Due to its elevation and position in the highlands, the
climate is cooler and wetter than lowland Bohemia/Moravia — a temperate
upland/continental type.
Annual average temperature — ~8.5 °C.
July (warmest) — daily highs ~19–20 °C.
January — lows around –3 to
–5 °C (or colder).
Annual precipitation — ~800–850 mm (higher than
Prague's ~500–600 mm), with snow cover common and lasting in winter.
Warm season (highs >18 °C) lasts roughly late May to early September.
Landscape Character and Human Elements
The overall impression is
a picturesque, green highland landscape of forests, fishponds, meadows,
and gentle hills, with the Sázava River valley cutting through. A major
landmark visible from afar is Zelená hora (Green Mountain) just north of
the center, crowned by the UNESCO-listed pilgrimage Church of St. John
of Nepomuk (designed by Johann Santini-Aichel in dramatic Baroque-Gothic
style).