New Canaan, Connecticut

New Canaan, located in Fairfield County, Connecticut, stands out as one of the wealthiest communities in the United States. Known for its upscale lifestyle and picturesque charm, the town boasts a median household income exceeding $230,000 as of recent data, maintaining its status among the nation's top affluent areas long after being ranked first by CNN Money in 2008 for median family income. With a population of around 20,000, it offers a serene suburban escape just an hour from New York City, blending historic elegance with modern amenities.

 

What to See and Do

New Canaan is rich in natural beauty, architectural wonders, and cultural spots that attract visitors year-round. Key highlights include:

New Canaan Nature Center: This 40-acre preserve features trails, gardens, a discovery center, and educational programs on wildlife and sustainability. It's ideal for families, with interactive exhibits, animal encounters, and seasonal events like maple sugaring in winter.

Waveny Park (South Avenue): Originally part of Prospect Farm, this expansive 300-acre estate was developed in 1912 by industrialist Lewis Lapham as a summer retreat, complete with a grand "castle" mansion. Acquired by the town in 1967, it now serves as a public park offering hiking trails, sports fields, picnic areas, a pool, and stunning gardens. It's a popular spot for outdoor concerts, weddings, and community events, with the historic Waveny House often hosting art shows and gatherings.

Silvermine Arts Center (1037 Silvermine Road): Nestled in a historic area, this vibrant center hosts exhibitions, performances, and workshops in various media, from painting to sculpture. It attracts artists from diverse backgrounds and offers classes taught by professionals, making it a hub for creativity and community engagement.

For architecture enthusiasts, don't miss The Philip Johnson Glass House, a modernist icon designed by the renowned architect in 1949. This National Historic Landmark includes the transparent Glass House itself, along with galleries and sculptures set on 49 acres of landscaped grounds—perfect for guided tours exploring mid-century design.

Another must-visit is Grace Farms, an 80-acre nonprofit center featuring award-winning architecture by SANAA, winding river-like buildings, nature trails, art installations, and programs on justice, faith, and community. It's free to explore and hosts events like tea ceremonies and live music.

Other activities include strolling through the New Canaan Museum & Historical Society for local history insights or visiting the modern New Canaan Library for its innovative design and events.

 

Get In

The most convenient way to reach New Canaan is by train via the Metro-North Railroad. The town has two stations on the New Canaan Branch of the New Haven Line: the main New Canaan station in the heart of downtown and Talmadge Hill station farther south. Trains run frequently, with a journey to Grand Central Terminal in Manhattan taking about one hour. Fares vary, but expect around $15-20 off-peak; check the MTA website for schedules and tickets. Driving from New York City via I-95 or the Merritt Parkway is also straightforward, taking roughly 45-60 minutes depending on traffic.

 

Buy

New Canaan's charming downtown is a shopper's delight, filled with boutique stores, galleries, and specialty shops. Highlights include the Carriage Barn Arts Center for local artwork and crafts, the New Canaan Farmers Market (seasonal on Saturdays) for fresh produce and artisanal goods, and galleries like Jean Jacobs or N. West for unique pieces. For fashion and gifts, browse spots like She La La for women's clothing, Pennyweights for jewelry, or More 'N' More for eclectic finds. The area also features high-end real estate offices and home decor stores, reflecting the town's affluent vibe.

 

Eat

Dining options in New Canaan range from casual cafes to upscale eateries, emphasizing fresh, seasonal ingredients.

SE Uncorked (15 Elm Street, +1 203-920-1212, Nick@southendnewcanaan.com): Open Tuesday-Saturday 11:30AM-11PM, Monday 5-9PM, and Sunday 11AM-9PM, this lively spot offers a creative cocktail menu, an always-open bar, comfortable seating, and an inviting outdoor patio for al fresco dining. The menu features American fare with a twist, like small plates and entrees perfect for sharing.

For more variety, try Elm Restaurant for modern American cuisine in a stylish setting, Farmer's Table for farm-to-table dishes with organic focus, or Sole for Italian-inspired seafood and pasta. Other favorites include Ching's Table for Asian fusion and Gates Restaurant + Bar for hearty pub-style meals with live music.

 

Drink

While New Canaan isn't known for wild nightlife, it has cozy bars and lounges for relaxed evenings. Check out The Pub at The Playhouse for classic drinks in a historic cinema setting, Cherry Street East for a neighborhood vibe with craft beers, or Blackbird for sophisticated cocktails in a moody, upscale atmosphere. For something unique, The Back End offers Mexican-inspired drinks and tacos, while The White Buffalo features live bands and a lively bar scene. Many restaurants like Gates also double as great spots for happy hour.

 

Sleep

Accommodations in New Canaan are boutique and charming, with options for a cozy stay.

Main Street Inn (190 Main Street, +1 203-972-2983): A quaint bed-and-breakfast in the town center, offering comfortable rooms with antique furnishings and easy access to shops and dining.
Maples Inn (179 Oenoke Ridge): This historic inn provides elegant, spacious suites with fireplaces, gardens, and personalized service, ideal for a romantic getaway.
Roger Sherman Inn (195 Oenoke Ridge, +1 203-966-4541): A landmark property blending colonial history with modern comforts, featuring well-appointed rooms, an on-site restaurant, and event spaces.

 

History

Early Settlement and Native American Context (Pre-1731)
The area that would become New Canaan, Connecticut, was originally inhabited by Native American tribes, though their presence was minimal by the time of European settlement in the mid-17th century. Archaeological evidence, such as arrowheads, stone ovens, mortars, and encampment sites like those near Indian Rocks along the Five Mile River, indicates earlier Native activity, including figures like Chief Ponus, who claimed much of the land but disappeared around 1665. Land acquisitions from Native Americans occurred through a series of deeds between 1640 and 1651, facilitated by early English settlers. For instance, Roger Ludlow purchased the eastern section of Norwalk in 1640 for items like wampum, coats, and tools, covering areas like Runckingheage and Rooaton. Daniel Patrick acquired the middle section, and additional purchases in 1651 by Richard Webb and others extended to the Norwalk and Saugatuck rivers, including ridges like Ponus, Clapboard Hill, and Canoe Hill. These transactions were generally peaceful, though they reflected the broader displacement of indigenous peoples during colonial expansion.
European settlement began in earnest in the 1630s, drawing from Puritan migrations out of Massachusetts Bay Colony. Influenced by leaders like Thomas Hooker and John Davenport, early settlers established communities along the Connecticut River, such as Windsor, Hartford, and Wethersfield (the "Three River Towns"), under the 1639 Fundamental Orders, which emphasized consent-based governance. New Canaan's roots trace to these migrations, with families like the Abbotts, Benedicts, Boutons, Fitches, Hanfords, Keelers, Richards, St. Johns, and Smiths arriving from places like Dorchester and Salem. By the 1650s, clusters formed on ridges like Ponus and along rivers like Five Mile and Noroton. The region fell under the jurisdictions of Norwalk (settled 1650-51 by Nathaniel Ely and Richard Olmstead) and Stamford (settled 1641 by dissenters from Wethersfield under New Haven Colony's theocratic rule). Conflicts like the Pequot War (1637) and boundary disputes between Stamford and Norwalk (resolved 1666-1670) shaped the area, but by 1730, population growth—around 300 people in 1772—necessitated a separate parish.
Social structure was proprietary, with land divided based on estates (3 acres per £100), and newcomers voted in as freemen. Communities emphasized self-sufficiency, Sabbath observance, and armed readiness for meetings. Slavery existed on a small scale; the 1790 census noted slaves in Connecticut, including in New Canaan, with records of bills-of-sale and wills (e.g., Caesar's 1773 inheritance including silver spoons and books). Treatment was relatively fair compared to southern colonies, with some slaves attending church and even fighting in the Revolution (e.g., Abner Andrews and Caesar Freeman, who were freed). Slavery was gradually abolished, with an act in 1768 freeing enslaved people at age 25; the last known individual, "Old Ony" (Onesimus), died in the 1850s.

Formation of Canaan Parish and Colonial Era (1731-1801)
In 1731, Connecticut's colonial legislature established Canaan Parish as a religious entity in northwestern Norwalk and northeastern Stamford, granting the right to form a Congregational church for the area's scattered families. This was not initially planned as a full town, leading to administrative challenges: residents voted, paid taxes, and filed deeds in their original hometowns. The first Society meeting occurred on July 1, 1731, with 47 members (30 from Norwalk, 17 from Stamford). A meetinghouse was built on Haines Ridge in 1731-32, funded by taxes of ten pence per pound. Rev. John Eells was settled as the first minister in 1733 but dismissed in 1741 due to eccentricities; he was succeeded by Rev. Robert Silliman in 1742. The parish managed schools, highways, and taxes, with seating in the meetinghouse based on "rate and dignity."
Religiously, the Congregational church dominated, but diversity emerged: Episcopal services began around 1762-64, with St. Mark's frame raised in 1764 on land from James Hait. It became an independent society in 1791 with 79 family heads. Other denominations followed, including Methodist preaching in 1787.
Economically, the parish was primarily agricultural until the Revolutionary War, focusing on wheat, rye, corn, and hay. Travel was by foot or horseback to steamboats or sloops. Militarily, a Train-Band was formed in 1733 under Capt. Ebenezer Carter. During the Revolution, as part of Norwalk and Stamford, residents contributed to battles like White Plains and Ticonderoga; some were imprisoned (e.g., John Carter in Sugar House Prison). Locals witnessed nearby events, such as the 1779 burning of Norwalk from hilltops or the Ridgefield Battle. Figures like Capt. Stephen Betts fought at Bunker Hill, Princeton, and Yorktown. Women like Hannah Benedict Carter supported troops, and Phoebe Comstock observed British retreats.
Education was mandatory, with early district schools (e.g., a 20x20 ft red schoolhouse with central benches and a strict master). Rev. Justus Mitchell's select school in 1783 boosted literacy and prosperity.

Incorporation and 19th-Century Growth (1801-1900)
New Canaan was incorporated as a town in May 1801 to avoid confusion with northern Canaan, encompassing about 5x5.25 miles with around 250 families and 1,500 inhabitants. Celebrations included cannon fire; Joseph Silliman served as first moderator, Isaac Richards as selectman, and Samuel St. John as clerk. Governance involved town meetings in the meetinghouse, with taxes for roads (initially 2 cents per dollar) and officers like tything men and fence viewers. Regulations controlled loose animals, and a pound was built in 1807. The first Town Hall was voted in 1825 but debated extensively before construction.
Post-Revolutionary, shoemaking became the dominant industry, producing 50,000 pairs annually by 1818 (third in the U.S., first for women's shoes). The Benedict firm, started around 1762 by James B. Benedict, was America's oldest family-run shoemaker until 1924. Other operations included Amos Ayres' "Big Shop" in 1824. This spurred regional settlements like Ponus Ridge, West Road, Oenoke Ridge, Smith Ridge, Talmadge Hill, and Silvermine, with clustered houses, mills, and schools.
The New York, New Haven and Hartford Railroad's opening in 1868 transformed New Canaan, attracting wealthy New Yorkers for summer escapes due to its pastoral beauty. Figures like William Davenport (who moved in 1812) and Gilbert Birdsall (who built the New Canaan Hotel) encouraged visits, leading to permanent settlements. By the 1890s, summer crowds supported local businesses like ice cream parlors and sporting goods stores. In 1892, New Yorkers formed the precursor to the town's first country club. Infrastructure improved with the New Canaan Water Company in 1893 and electric lights in 1897.
Religiously, expansions included a new Episcopal church in 1833 (consecrated 1834, remodeled 1857-58), Methodist church in 1833, Baptist in 1871, Universalist in 1832, and Catholic services from 1863. Education advanced with New Canaan Academy (1815-16, teaching classics and math, producing Yale graduates until ~1830), Church Hill Institute (1835-61 for boys), and others like Scofield's School (1873-99).
A notable cultural anecdote arose in the 1890s when editor Will Kirk of the New Canaan Messenger defended the town against critics calling it the "next station to hell" (from a Civil War veteran's remark during a hot parade), coining "Next Station to Heaven" in a satirical editorial—a nickname still used affectionately today.
Patriotism continued in later conflicts: volunteers for the War of 1812 and Civil War (e.g., Lt. Hunnewell honored). Reforms like temperance and anti-slavery gained traction. The 1901 centennial celebrated with parades, speeches (including Anthony Comstock), exhibits, and banquets attracting ~10,000 attendees.

20th Century and Modern Era (1900-Present)
The early 20th century solidified New Canaan's shift to a commuter suburb, aided by improved highways and rail access. In 1912, Waveny Park was developed from Prospect Farm, the summer estate of Lewis Lapham (Texaco founder); the town acquired his 300-acre mansion and parkland in 1967. Traditions like singing carols on God's Acre began in 1916 and continue annually.
From the late 1940s to the 1960s, New Canaan became a global hub for modernist architecture, with the "Harvard Five"—Philip Johnson, Marcel Breuer, Landis Gores, John M. Johansen, and Eliot Noyes—building around 80 innovative homes using new materials, open floor plans, and experimental designs. Johnson's Glass House (1949) epitomizes this era, alongside contributions from Frank Lloyd Wright and others. About 20 of these homes have been demolished, but the movement's legacy endures, featured in films like The Ice Storm (1997), which showcased glass houses on Laurel Road.
The Historic District, centered on Church Hill (God's Acre), was established in 1963. Today, New Canaan remains a wealthy rural enclave in Fairfield County, bordering New York State, known for its modernist heritage, including the Philip Johnson Glass House, and as a commuter town to New York City. Population growth post-railroad and ongoing preservation efforts by the New Canaan Historical Society (founded 1889) highlight its evolution from agricultural parish to affluent suburb.

 

Geography

New Canaan is a town in Fairfield County, Connecticut, situated in the Western Connecticut Planning Region. It is part of Connecticut's affluent Gold Coast area and lies approximately 40 miles northeast of New York City, making it a popular commuter suburb with train access via the Metro-North Railroad, taking about an hour to reach Manhattan. The town borders Darien to the south, Stamford to the west, Wilton to the east, Norwalk to the southeast, and the New York towns of Lewisboro and Pound Ridge to the north. Notably, it is the only municipality on the Connecticut Panhandle that does not directly border the coast of Long Island Sound. The total area of New Canaan is 22.5 square miles (58.3 km²), of which 22.1 square miles (57.3 km²) is land and 0.35 square miles (0.9 km²) is water, accounting for about 1.56% of the total area. Its average elevation is around 344 feet (105 meters), though topographic variations create a diverse landscape.

 

Topography and Terrain

The terrain of New Canaan is characterized by a series of parallel ridges running roughly north to south, which define much of its physical geography and contribute to its pastoral, rolling landscape. Key ridges include Ponus Ridge, Oenoke Ridge, and Smith Ridge, which divide the town into distinct sections such as New Canaan Town Center, Talmadge Hill, Ponus Ridge, West, Oenoke Ridge, Smith Ridge, and a portion of the Silvermine area (which extends into neighboring Norwalk and Wilton). These ridges create valleys and low-lying areas, resulting in a varied topography of hills, slopes, and plateaus that historically supported agriculture and later attracted affluent residents for its scenic beauty. The landscape is part of the broader New England Uplands, featuring rolling hills and valleys typical of the region's glaciated terrain. This topography also influences local development, with settlements historically clustered around the ridges, and modern infrastructure like the Merritt Parkway enhancing connectivity while preserving much of the natural contours.

 

Hydrography

New Canaan's hydrography is intricately tied to its ridged topography, with rainwater draining into valleys between the ridges and forming a network of rivers, streams, ponds, wetlands, and vernal pools that ultimately flow southward to Long Island Sound. The town spans four primary watersheds:

Silvermine River Watershed: Located east of Smith Ridge, draining into the Silvermine River, which joins the Norwalk River and empties into Norwalk Harbor.
Five Mile River Watershed: Between Smith and Oenoke Ridges, feeding the Five Mile River that reaches Long Island Sound at Rowayton.
Noroton River Watershed: Between Oenoke and Ponus Ridges, contributing to the Noroton River, which flows into Holly Pond in Darien.
Rippowam River Watershed: West of Ponus Ridge, draining into the Rippowam River (also known as the Mill River in Stamford), eventually reaching Long Island Sound.

These watersheds support groundwater recharge, which is critical as approximately 70% of homes rely on private wells for drinking water. The ridges act as natural divides, directing water flow and helping prevent erosion through vegetation and root systems. Small bodies of water, including ponds and wetlands, cover about 0.35 square miles and play roles in flood control, habitat provision, and water filtration. Environmentally, these features support biodiversity, serving as nurseries for amphibians, birds, dragonflies, and turtles, while also aiding in carbon sequestration, soil filtration, and migration routes for wildlife.

 

Climate

New Canaan has a humid continental climate with four distinct seasons: warm, humid summers; cold, snowy winters; and mild springs and falls. Annual average temperatures range from a low of 22°F to a high of 82°F, with an overall mean of about 52°F. The warm season spans mid-June to mid-September, ideal for outdoor activities, while the cold season runs from early December to mid-March. Humidity is higher in summer, with July having the most muggy days (13.3), and near zero in winter. Wind speeds peak in winter (up to 8.9 mph in February) and are calmest in summer (around 5.4 mph in July). Cloud cover is partly cloudy year-round, clearest in late summer (64% clear in September) and cloudiest in winter (52% overcast in February).

 

Natural Features and Environment

New Canaan's geography includes significant natural preserves that highlight its environmental richness. Waveny Park, a 300-acre former estate acquired by the town in 1967, features meadows, woodlands, and trails, serving as a central public space. The New Canaan Nature Center spans 40 acres with diverse habitats, including wet and dry meadows, two ponds, wet and dry woodlands, and dense thickets, supporting educational programs and wildlife. Conservation efforts are bolstered by the New Canaan Land Trust, which protects open spaces, critical habitats, aquifer protection areas, and natural diversity zones. These areas contribute to biodiversity, flood mitigation, and air quality, with forests and wetlands filtering water and providing habitats for local fauna. The town's pastoral ridges and valleys have historically drawn residents for their scenic appeal, evolving from farmland to protected green spaces.

 

Haunted legends and abandoned places

New Canaan, Connecticut, is a picturesque and affluent suburb in Fairfield County, known for its historic charm, upscale homes, and proximity to New York City. Founded in the early 18th century as part of Canaan Parish, the town has preserved much of its colonial heritage amid modern development. While not as notorious for paranormal activity as some older New England locales, New Canaan harbors a few intriguing haunted legends tied to its early settlers, Revolutionary War-era figures, and enigmatic wanderers. These stories often blend historical fact with folklore, evoking a sense of gentle, protective spirits rather than malevolent hauntings. Abandoned places are rarer here due to the town's high property values and preservation efforts, but a couple of sites stand out for their eerie vacancy and overgrown relics. Below, I'll delve into the most notable examples, drawing on local histories and reported encounters.

Haunted Legends
New Canaan's ghostly tales often revolve around historic homes and mysterious figures from the 19th century, with spirits described as benign or even comforting. These legends are rooted in the town's early days as a rural farming community, where isolation and hardship may have fueled superstitions.

The Leatherman: A Wandering Enigma
One of the most enduring legends connected to New Canaan is that of the "Leatherman," a enigmatic vagrant who roamed the Northeast in the mid-to-late 1800s. Clad head-to-toe in a 60-pound suit of patched leather scraps—including boots, pants, coat, and a hat that partially hid his weathered, bearded face—he spoke little, communicating mostly in broken French or English grunts. He lived a nomadic life, sheltering in caves and rock outcrops while following a precise 365-mile circuit through Connecticut and New York, completing it every 34 days with clockwork reliability. In New Canaan, he had a regular "home" at the base of a steep cliff known as the "Watchtowers of the Noroton Valley," located west of Weed Street and south of modern Parish Lane. This natural boulder shelter near the Noroton River provided water and seclusion, and it's now nestled in a dense, undeveloped forest.
Locals like Katherine Crissey Weed Comstock recalled him as a "grotesque figure" who knocked on doors mid-morning for food, gesturing gratefully without speaking. Children found encounters with him thrilling yet terrifying, and he became a fixture in the community, with benefactors preparing handouts based on his predictable schedule.
The Leatherman's origins remain shrouded in mystery—newspapers fabricated a romantic backstory of him as Jules Bourglay, a Frenchman heartbroken and cursed to wander after a failed leather business and romance, but research by historian Dan DeLuca debunked this. He died in 1889 in a cave near Ossining, New York, from cancer and starvation, and was buried in Sparta Cemetery (later exhumed and reburied, yielding no remains due to acidic soil). His legend persists as a "ghost story" in New Canaan, with tributes like leather scraps and pennies left at his grave echoing old traditions where children placed coins on fence posts along his path. Though not a literal ghost, his haunting presence lingers in local folklore, symbolizing solitude and the unknown, as if his spirit still trudges the forgotten trails.

The Benedict-Eells-Thatcher House: Spirits of Comfort
The oldest standing home in New Canaan, the Benedict-Eells-Thatcher House on Carter Road, dates back to around 1724. Originally a "mansion house" gifted by Deacon John Benedick of Norwalk to his son, it became a hub for early settlers when Canaan Parish was established in 1731. Its most notable early resident was minister John Eels, who led the Congregational Church from 1733 but was ousted after eight years for "eccentricities deemed improper," though he lived there until his death in 1785. The saltbox-style home passed through various owners, including Mabel Thatcher from the 1920s to 1970s, who championed its preservation. Current owners Tom and Libby Butterworth, who have resided there since 1989 (with a brief hiatus), report multiple benevolent spirits that make the house feel "protected."
Encounters include a heavyset man in Civil War-era attire who once sat beside Libby on the couch during a documentary viewing; a woman in a shawl seen pacing an upstairs bedroom while Tom mowed the lawn; and a white-haired woman, believed to be Mabel Thatcher, who comforted their daughter by patting her shoulder during a restless night before a big move—the figure vanished into the hallway. The Butterworths describe the presences as non-threatening, with sudden cold spots and a reassuring aura, especially when Libby was alone. After renovations in 2011—adding antique oak beams and preserving original features like wide beams and the fireplace—ghostly activity waned, leading them to speculate the spirits were content once the home's future was secured from demolition threats.

The Ghost of Elizabeth at 263 Oenoke Ridge
At 263 Oenoke Ridge, a 250-year-old wood-frame house built by Revolutionary War veteran Aaron Comstock, resides the playful spirit of a young girl named Elizabeth, thought to have died of consumption (tuberculosis) in the 18th or 19th century.
Longtime owner Melanie Barnard reports subtle disturbances: rattlings, objects relocating overnight, and pranks like sliding closet doors falling during renovations. A workman's tool belt vanished from the third floor (Elizabeth's former bedroom) only to reappear mysteriously. Historical records from the New Canaan Historical Society list several Elizabeth Comstocks, including Aaron's niece born in 1783 with no recorded death date. Paranormal expert Lorraine Warren suggested the spirit is earthbound, activated by changes like renovations, and needs help to cross over. Elizabeth is never malicious—her antics are childlike, focusing on closets and the attic, evoking a sense of lingering innocence rather than fear.

Abandoned Places
Given New Canaan's wealth and focus on preservation, outright abandoned sites are scarce, but a few vacant or overgrown spots carry an air of mystery, often tied to forgotten histories or eccentric owners.

Le Beau Chateau: The Empty Mansion at 104 Dans Highway
This 22-room white brick manor, built in 1937 as a custom estate for retired U.S. Senator David Aikeen Reed, has stood eerily vacant for over 50 years on 52 wooded acres teeming with wildlife like deer, turkeys, and hawks.
Purchased in 1952 by reclusive heiress Huguette Clark—daughter of copper magnate and senator William Andrews Clark—for an undisclosed reason (rumored as a Cold War bomb shelter), it was never furnished, occupied, or even visited by her. The fortress-like structure features nine bedrooms, nine baths, 12 fireplaces, a preserved 1930s kitchen with an icebox, and two caretaker cottages. Caretakers maintain the grounds, but the interior remains a time capsule, empty and untouched. Clark, who lived to 104 and died in 2011, listed it for sale in 2005 at $34 million (reduced to $24 million by 2010), insisting it be sold intact. The vacancy's mystery—amid streams, a waterfall, and dense pines—fuels local intrigue, as if the estate awaits an owner who never arrived.

Abandoned House and Graveyard Near Weed Street Cemetery
Tucked near the historic Weed Cemetery on Weed Street—a small, rural burial ground with 142 memorials dating back centuries—lies an abandoned rustic log cabin and overgrown graveyard.
The cabin, partially clad in asbestos siding, features remnants of 18th- or 19th-century construction, while the adjacent private graveyard has headstones from as early as 1830, many weathered and illegible. New Canaan boasts 28 such "rural" cemeteries, 22 on private land, often decaying due to neglect. This site, close to homes yet forgotten, evokes a sense of isolation; locals report it as a relic of old farming families like the Weeds, with overgrowth hiding its secrets. Access is limited, as it's on private property, but it exemplifies the town's hidden pockets of abandonment amid prosperity.