The Natchez Trace Parkway is a 444-mile scenic byway managed by the National Park Service, stretching from Nashville, Tennessee (milepost 444), southward through Alabama and Mississippi to Natchez, Mississippi (milepost 0). It parallels the historic "Old Natchez Trace," an ancient trail originally used by Native American tribes like the Natchez, Chickasaw, and Choctaw for hunting, trading, and migration as far back as 10,000 years ago. European explorers, settlers, "Kaintucks" (Ohio River flatboatmen who walked back north after selling goods in Natchez or New Orleans), slave traders, soldiers, and notable figures such as Andrew Jackson, Meriwether Lewis, and Davy Crockett later traversed it. By the early 1800s, it evolved into a vital wagon road linking the Cumberland, Tennessee, and Mississippi rivers, but it fell into disuse with the rise of steamboats in the 1820s. The modern Parkway, completed in 2005 after preservation efforts spearheaded by the Daughters of the American Revolution in the 1930s, prohibits commercial traffic (no trucks or billboards), enforces a 50-55 mph speed limit, and offers a serene, ad-free drive through forested hills, swamps, prairies, and rivers. It's designated as a National Scenic Byway, All-American Road, and one of America's top biking routes, with no entrance fees.
The Natchez Trace Parkway is a 444-mile scenic roadway that stretches
from Natchez, Mississippi, to Nashville, Tennessee, passing through
portions of Mississippi, Alabama, and Tennessee. Administered by the
U.S. National Park Service, it commemorates the historic Old Natchez
Trace, one of North America's oldest transportation routes, with human
use dating back over 10,000 years. This modern parkway, completed in
2005 after decades of construction, serves as a preserved corridor of
history, culture, and natural beauty, encompassing diverse landscapes
such as forests, wetlands, prairies, rivers, and farmlands across 52,000
acres. It was designated a National Scenic Byway and All-American Road
in 1996 for its exceptional historic, cultural, natural, and scenic
qualities, and it remains the only national parkway dedicated to an
ancient travel route. The parkway not only follows the approximate path
of the original trail but also protects over 350 archaeological sites,
22 burial and ceremonial mounds, and segments of the old footpath,
offering visitors a journey through millennia of American history.
Prehistoric Origins and Native American Use
The origins of the
Natchez Trace trace back to prehistoric times, when large game animals
like bison and deer followed a geologic ridgeline from the salt licks of
central Tennessee to grazing lands in Mississippi and the Mississippi
River. This natural pathway, formed by animal migration, dates to at
least 10,000 years ago, making it one of the continent's earliest
transportation corridors. Prehistoric Native Americans, including
ancestors of the Natchez, Chickasaw, and Choctaw nations, improved these
animal trails into a network of footpaths for hunting, trade, and travel
across their homelands. The Mississippian culture, thriving from around
800 to 1600 CE, built sophisticated mound complexes along the route,
such as the Emerald Mound (constructed around 1200-1730 CE), which is
the second-largest ceremonial mound in the United States and served as a
center for religious and social activities. Other notable prehistoric
sites include the Bynum Mounds (dating from 100 BCE to 200 CE) and the
Pharr Mounds, highlighting the vibrant cultures that flourished for
thousands of years.
The trail's significance persisted into
historic times, with tribes like the Choctaw, Chickasaw, and Natchez
using it extensively for intertribal commerce and communication.
Chickasaw leader Chief Piominko was particularly associated with the
path, which was sometimes called "Piominko's Path." However, the 19th
century brought tragedy: during the Trail of Tears in the 1830s, forced
removals of Native American tribes, including the Cherokee, Choctaw, and
Chickasaw, intersected the Trace at several points, such as the Benge,
Bell, Drane, and Water Routes, where thousands endured harrowing
overland and river journeys westward, resulting in significant loss of
life.
European Exploration and Early American Settlement
The
first recorded European traversal of the Trace occurred in 1742 by an
unknown Frenchman, who documented its "miserable conditions" and
reliance on Native guides. By the late 18th century, as European
Americans expanded westward, the trail gained prominence. In 1785, it
became a vital return route for "Kaintucks"—boatmen from the Ohio River
valley who floated flatboats laden with goods down the Mississippi to
markets in Natchez and New Orleans, then sold their boats and trekked
back north along the Trace on foot or horseback. This era saw the
emergence of "stands" (primitive inns) along the route, such as Mount
Locust (c. 1780), one of the oldest surviving structures, which provided
lodging, food, and respite amid dangers like bandits and harsh terrain.
President Thomas Jefferson played a pivotal role in formalizing the
Trace, dubbing it the "Columbian Highway" and ordering its expansion
after the 1803 Louisiana Purchase to connect the Mississippi Territory
with the rest of the nation. Treaties with the Choctaw and Chickasaw in
1801 and 1805 granted access, and the U.S. Army began improving the
path, making it wagon-navigable by 1809. Despite enhancements, the Trace
earned the nickname "The Devil's Backbone" due to its ruggedness, with
deep, eroded sections known as the "Sunken Trace" formed by centuries of
foot, hoof, and wheel traffic wearing down the soft loess soil.
Peak Usage in the Early 19th Century
The Trace's heyday spanned from
the 1770s to the 1820s, serving as the most important highway in the Old
Southwest for military, economic, and political purposes. Around 1810,
an estimated 10,000 travelers used it annually, including traders,
immigrants, soldiers, and mail carriers. In 1800, President John Adams
designated it a national post road, facilitating weekly horseback mail
service between Nashville and Natchez. During the War of 1812 and the
Creek War, General Andrew Jackson marched troops along it, solidifying
its military importance. The route also linked key rivers—the
Cumberland, Tennessee, and Mississippi—fostering regional trade.
Culturally, the Trace was a conduit for ideas and religion. Methodist,
Baptist, and Presbyterian preachers traveled it during the Great
Awakening, converting settlers, Native Americans, and enslaved people,
with significant membership growth by 1812. Settlements like Washington
(Mississippi's territorial capital) and Port Gibson sprang up along it.
Tragically, it was a pathway for the slave trade, with enslaved
individuals marched in chains to Natchez's markets, facing perils from
outlaws who kidnapped and resold them. Notable figures included future
presidents and explorers, such as Meriwether Lewis, who died
mysteriously (officially by suicide) at Grinder's Stand in 1809; his
grave site along the parkway remains a poignant landmark.
Civil War
battles, including those at Brices Cross Roads and Tupelo (now national
battlefield sites managed by the parkway), occurred near the corridor in
the 1860s.
Decline and Modern Commemoration
By the 1830s, the
Trace fell into disrepair as steamboat technology revolutionized river
travel, allowing upstream navigation and shifting commerce to faster
routes like Jackson's Military Road and those via Memphis. Most stands
closed by the 1840s, and sections reverted to local roads or were
abandoned.
Interest in preserving the Trace revived in the early 20th
century. Congress authorized the Natchez Trace Parkway in 1934,
establishing it as a National Park System unit in 1938 to honor the
historic corridor. Construction began piecemeal, incorporating sites
like the Ackia Battleground (1935) and Meriwether Lewis National
Monuments (added in 1961). The parkway's design gently follows the
original trail's alignment, preserving "sunken" sections and historical
integrity. In 1983, the Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail was added,
offering 66 miles of hiking and equestrian paths along old segments.
Today, the parkway attracts visitors for its blend of history and
recreation, with sites like Emerald Mound exemplifying its ancient
roots.
The Parkway is divided into sections by state, with mileposts marking
pullouts, trails, and sites. It's best driven north to south for a
logical progression from highlands to lowlands, allowing 3-5 days to
fully explore (about 100-150 miles per day). Below is a detailed list of
key stops, organized north to south by milepost ranges, with
descriptions, significance, and activities. (Mileposts decrease
southward.) This isn't exhaustive—there are over 100 pullouts—but
focuses on highlights.
Milepost Range: 444-341State/Section:
Tennessee (Northern Terminus near Nashville)Key Stops: Double Arch
Bridge (MP 438); Jackson Falls (MP 407.7); Tobacco Barn (MP 401.4);
Gordon House Historic Site (MP 407.7); War of 1812 Memorial (MP 426);
Baker Bluff Overlook (MP 405.1); Fall Hollow Waterfall (MP
391.9)Description and Significance: Starts with the iconic 1990s
concrete arch bridge over Birdsong Hollow (155 ft high). Jackson Falls
features a 900-ft trail to an 80-ft waterfall. Tobacco Barn demonstrates
1800s farming. Gordon House is an 1818 brick home tied to ferry
operations. Memorial honors soldiers' hardships. Overlooks provide
panoramic valley views. Waterfalls and sunken Trace sections evoke
erosion from historic travel.Activities and Tips: Hiking (short trails
to falls and overlooks); photography; picnicking. Tip: Enter from
Nashville; detour to Leiper's Fork or Franklin for Civil War sites.
Watch for cyclists sharing the road.
Milepost Range:
341-320State/Section: Alabama/Tennessee BorderKey Stops: Sunken Trace
(MP 350.3); Colbert Ferry (MP 327.3); Pharr Mounds (MP 286.7); Bear
Creek Mound (MP 308.8); Cave Spring (MP 308.4); Freedom Hills Overlook
(MP 317)Description and Significance: Sunken paths show wagon-worn
erosion. Colbert Ferry site recalls Chickasaw leader Levi Colbert's
1800s stand and Tennessee River crossing. Pharr Mounds are
2,000-year-old Woodland burial sites. Bear Creek Mound is a
Mississippian ceremonial platform. Cave Spring is a karst formation with
unsafe interior. Overlook offers hill views.Activities and Tips: Walking
trails (e.g., 1,600-ft to overlooks); interpretive audio. Tip: Detour to
Muscle Shoals for music history tours ($20); spot spring wildflowers
like trillium.
Milepost Range: 320-261State/Section:
Alabama/Mississippi (Tupelo Area)Key Stops: Buzzard Roost Spring (MP
320.3); Tishomingo State Park (MP 304); Chickasaw Village Site (MP
261.8); Old Town Overlook (MP 263.9); Parkway Visitor Center (MP 266);
Confederate Gravesites (MP 269.4); Dogwood Valley (MP 275)Description
and Significance: Buzzard Roost honors Colbert's inn. Tishomingo has
CCC-built stone structures, swinging bridge, disc golf, and rock
climbing. Village site outlines Chickasaw homes (1500s). Visitor center
has exhibits, film, and stamps. Graves mark unknown Civil War soldiers.
Dogwood Valley blooms in April.Activities and Tips: Hiking (Beech
Springs Nature Trail at visitor center); fishing/boating at nearby
lakes; camping at Tishomingo ($2 entry). Tip: Exit for Tupelo's Elvis
sites (birthplace museum, $10-20); stock up on gas/food in towns.
Milepost Range: 261-131State/Section: Mississippi (Central)Key Stops:
Bynum Mounds (MP 232.4); French Camp Historic Village (MP 180.7); Jeff
Busby Overlook (MP 193.1); Cypress Swamp (MP 122); Cole Creek (MP
175.6)Description and Significance: Bynum are ancient Woodland mounds
with paved paths. French Camp preserves 1812 buildings. Jeff Busby
offers prairie views. Swamps feature boardwalks through baldcypress and
tupelo gum trees.Activities and Tips: Boardwalk trails (e.g., 0.5-mile
in swamp for alligator spotting); picnicking. Tip: Detour to Jackson for
Civil Rights Museum ($15); free primitive camping at Jeff Busby.
Milepost Range: 131-0State/Section: Mississippi (Southern Terminus near
Natchez)Key Stops: Rocky Springs Townsite (MP 54.8); Mount Locust Stand
(MP 15.5); Emerald Mound (MP 10.3); Windsor Ruins (MP 30); Sunken Trace
(MP 41.5); Grand Village of the Natchez (MP 0 nearby); Forks of the Road
(off-Trace in Natchez)Description and Significance: Rocky Springs is a
ghost town with church and cemetery. Mount Locust is the last surviving
1780s inn, with enslaved people's graves. Emerald is a massive
Mississippian temple mound. Windsor Ruins are charred plantation
columns. Grand Village interprets Natchez tribe history. Forks marks a
slave market.Activities and Tips: Loop trails (e.g., at Rocky Springs);
mound climbing; somber historical reflection. Tip: End in Natchez for
antebellum home tours during Fall Pilgrimage; check NPS alerts for storm
damage.
Driving: The main draw—a low-speed, two-lane road with gentle curves,
perfect for RVs (max 55 ft length) or motorcycles. No services on the
Parkway; exit to towns every 10-20 miles for gas/food/lodging.
Biking/Hiking: Over 100 trails, from short interpretive loops (e.g.,
0.5-mile Beech Springs) to the 60-mile Natchez Trace National Scenic
Trail. It's a top cycling route; bikes share lanes with vehicles.
Camping: Three free primitive NPS sites (Meriwether Lewis at MP 385.9,
Jeff Busby at MP 193.1, Rocky Springs at MP 54.8)—first-come,
first-served, with picnic tables, restrooms, but no hookups/showers.
Nearby state parks like Tishomingo offer RV/tent sites with amenities.
Other: Fishing (state license required), horseback riding on designated
trails, birdwatching (eagles, herons in swamps), botanizing (spring
ephemerals like trout lilies), and ranger programs at visitor centers.
Detours to cities like Memphis (Graceland), Vicksburg (Civil War park),
or Jackson (museums) add urban contrast.
Spring (March-May) for wildflowers and dogwoods; fall (September-November) for vibrant foliage and leaf-peeping, with events like Natchez Balloon Festival. Avoid summer heat/humidity; winters can bring ice on bridges. Year-round access, but check NPS alerts for closures (e.g., storms may affect sections like MP 181-204). Download the NPS app for offline maps due to spotty cell service. Plan 3-5 days; start fueled up as stations are off-Parkway. Respect history—sites like slave markets are somber. Safety: Drive cautiously (deer crossings); leashed pets on trails; no drones. For boomers or families, intersperse drives with short hikes and town detours for comfort.