Gmunden, Austria

Gmunden has 13,275 inhabitants (as of January 1, 2020) and is the seat of the district administration of the Gmunden district. As the center of the Gmunden judicial district, it houses the district court. The city is known as the place of origin of Gmundner ceramics with its characteristic white and green flamed decor. During the k. u. k. Monarchy was Gmunden as a renowned summer resort, which the numerous villas testify. The city also became known in the 1990s through the television series Schlosshotel Orth.

The first settlement of today's urban area goes back to the 5th century. The first settlers were fishermen. The settlement takes its name from the confluence of the Traun in the Traunsee and was initially called about * (ze) munten ('At the mouths'). The plural was used because the Traun was not yet regulated and flowed into the lake in several arms.

It is not known exactly when Gmunden became a town from a fortified market. Gmunden celebrated its town elevation in 1278. Gmunden was heavily fortified in the Middle Ages. Gmunden only got its own church around 1300. A regional court (today a district court) already existed in 1217. The economic and political head was the salt minister or city judge.

The livelihood of the city remained the salt trade in the early modern period. The economic situation of Gmunden deteriorated immensely in the course of the Upper Austrian Peasant War, the salt trade could hardly be sustained and looting was the order of the day. After a truce was negotiated, musketeers moved in.

During the 17th century Gmunden grew in economic importance as a supplier of warships. Because of the second Turkish siege of Vienna, thousands of refugees had to be taken in and fed, which is why the existing Turkish tax was increased considerably.

 

During the Austrian War of Succession, Gmunden and the surrounding area looked like a large field camp, although there were never any armed conflicts. The burden of quarters, first for the Bavarians, then for the French, and after the invasion of the imperial troops in Upper Austria was considerable.

At the beginning of the 19th century the end of the boom of the salt trade was looming, which is why it was important to find new sources of income. The development of Gmundens into a spa town and the legendary competition with Bad Ischl that resulted from it began. In 1862 Gmunden was named a spa town.

In September 1914 Gmunden took over the task of a hospital town. 190 wounded soldiers arrived and were taken to the hospitals set up for this purpose. Hundreds of wounded arrived in the months that followed. In 1916 there was a rapid deterioration in the supply of the population, which could not be improved for the time being.

On January 1, 1939, parts of Eck and Ort as well as Traunleithen and Theresienthal had to be ceded by the Altmünster community to Gmunden. As a result, the train station was also integrated into the municipality of Gmunden. Until the 1950s, the Altmünster community tried to get the ceded areas back.

In 1942 Gmunden had to take in hundreds of refugees. A year before the end of the war, Gmunden became a refugee town. The population grew to 30,000, a crowd the community could not handle. Although the city was spared bombing, the economy was completely in ruins by the end of the war. During the Second World War, Gmunden was also used as a hospital town. Of the more than 600 Gmundners drafted into military service, not even 13 percent survived the war. During the occupation, the US troops set up an espionage center. Many former SS men were also hired, as it was assumed that they knew about Soviet conditions. The city of Gmunden also benefited from the American reconstruction program.

In 2008 the decentralized state exhibition took place under the title “Das Salzkammergut”. The leading and overview exhibition was in Schloss Ort in Gmunden. In addition to Gmunden, eleven other communities in the Salzkammergut took part. For this purpose the Kammerhof Museum was expanded or rebuilt.

Due to the low number of pupils, the previously independent secondary schools (Hebbel and Habert School) were merged from the 2007/2008 school year.

 

For 2007 there was a catalog of measures by the municipality. The most important projects included the expansion of the city center and the construction of the Lacus Felix lake hotel. The construction of the hotel was supposed to start in 2007, but after the liquidation of the hotel company due to financial problems, the construction project was abandoned in 2014. In 2009, the implementation of the so-called “station package” was to begin, which contained the following plan: Since the Seebahnhof is being demolished as a result of the hotel project, a suitable solution is to be found - the most likely option is to erect a new building in the monastery area. The Gmunden train station is also to receive a modern central platform and the station building is to be renovated. The barrier system at the level crossing near the train station is to be eliminated through an underpass.

 

Culture and sights

Schloss Ort

The most famous sights of Gmunden are the Landschloss and Seeschloss Ort. The latter was also the location of the television series Schlosshotel Orth. The Seeschloss is one of the oldest buildings in the Salzkammergut (built in the 10th century) and was first mentioned in documents in 909 and later in 1053.

The Villa Toscana is not far from the Seeschloss. This building was built between 1870 and 1877 in the middle of an 88,000 m² park as the domicile of the Grand Duchess of Tuscany, Maria Antonie of Naples-Sicily. Other castles in the vicinity are Cumberland Castle from the 19th century and Weyer Castle, which houses a permanent exhibition on Meissen porcelain.

On the Rinnholzplatz there is the salt carrier fountain, the only ceramic fountain in Austria, from which drinking water flows from the “Holy Bründl”.

In the parish church is the three king altar, which was created by the Bavarian-Austrian sculptor Thomas Schwanthaler around 1678. In the Capuchin Church, built in 1636, the high altar painting of the Visitation of the Virgin, created in 1753 by the Tyrolean Baroque painter Philipp Haller, is particularly noteworthy.

The Gmundner Marktplatz is located near the parish church. In addition to old houses, such as the first Gmundner Rathaus, which existed until 1301, there is also the city fountain with the city coat of arms. The town hall was built by an Italian master builder in 1574, with a ceramic chime from the 16th century, and underwent extensive renovations in 1925. When the city was founded, the market square was the economic and political center. In a lane leading away from the market square, there is the first pharmacy in the Salzkammergut, as well as the Pepöckhaus, in which the Klo & So sanitary museum has been set up since 1988.

The Kammerhof, built in 1450, once the seat of the Habsburg salt chamber and representative of the emperor, offers both historical and modern architectural elements. In the Kammerhof there is not only the city museum but also the Brahms Museum: Johannes Brahms often spent the summer months with the Viennese industrialist Viktor von Miller zu Aichholz in his Gmundner villa, after Brahms's death in 1897 he founded the first Brahms Museum in Gmunden in 1900 World.

The famous paddle steamer Gisela (built in 1871) is parked next to the Kammerhof at a landing stage for the Traunsee shipping company. The ship was named after the daughter of Emperor Franz Joseph, Gisela Louise Marie of Austria.

Another attraction is the Gmundner tram built by Stern & Hafferl. It connects the city center with the main train station and is the oldest, shortest and - with a gradient of 10% - the steepest tram in Austria.

In the Gmundner ceramics factory you can watch how the typical “green flamed” is created during factory tours. The influence of Gmundner ceramics is so strong that Gmunden calls itself the “ceramic city”. From 1997 the company, which had existed for more than 500 years, was owned by Maximilian Graf von Moy's family, made losses before 2014 and was sold to the MF Group, Anif by Markus Friesacher on August 1, 2018.

Vineyard outdoor seating in the Traundorf district.

Today the city is a member of the Association of Small Historic Cities.

 

History

Prehistoric and Ancient Origins
Human activity in the area dates back millennia, driven by rich salt deposits. Illyrian peoples mined salt here as early as around 1000 BCE. Celtic and Roman settlements followed, taking advantage of the strategic lakeside location for resources and trade. After the fall of the Roman Empire, Bavarian settlers moved in. A permanent settlement, likely including stilt houses or lakeside dwellings used by fishermen, existed by the 5th century CE.

Medieval Period: Fortification and Town Status
By the late 12th century, Gmunden had developed into a fortified settlement. Around 1186, it featured defensive walls, and it received town privileges (charter) in 1278. A church was not established until around 1300, despite earlier fortifications. Schloss Ort (Seeschloss Ort), the iconic castle on a small island in Traunsee, traces its origins to the 11th century (first mentioned around 909–1080) and played a key role in local defense and nobility.
The town’s growth was closely linked to the salt trade. As part of the Habsburg-controlled Salzkammergut (“salt chamber estate”), Gmunden became a vital transshipment point for salt mined upstream in places like Hallstatt and Bad Ischl. Salt was floated down the Traun River, making the town economically significant. Habsburg policies emphasized control over this monopoly, integrating Gmunden into the imperial salt economy.

Early Modern Era: Conflicts and Imperial Role
In the 16th–17th centuries, Gmunden’s importance grew. It supplied naval ships (war boats) to the Austrian Habsburgs. A major event was the Upper Austrian Peasants’ War in 1626: On November 14, an army of rebellious peasants was defeated at Gmunden by Imperial forces under General Gottfried Heinrich zu Pappenheim (acting for Maximilian I). The fallen insurgents were buried nearby in Pinsdorf, commemorated by the Bauernhügel obelisk memorial.
The town hall dates to 1659, and the Baroque parish church (on 13th-century foundations) was consecrated in 1723, reflecting post-conflict rebuilding and prosperity. Gmunden remained a key logistics hub for salt distribution, with good river connections.

18th–19th Centuries: Resort and Aristocratic Haven
Gmunden transitioned into a health and summer resort in the 19th century, famous for its lake, brine, and pine-cone baths, hydropathic facilities, and scenic beauty. The salt industry continued, but tourism and services expanded. Its popularity among European nobility increased, especially after the Habsburgs and other royals sought exile or retreats here.
Notable aristocratic connections include:
Members of the House of Hanover (e.g., George V, Ernest Augustus) and related dynasties who built or acquired villas like Cumberland Castle (1882).
Habsburg figures such as Archduke Johann Salvator (who owned Schloss Ort and later renounced his titles, becoming “Johann Orth” before disappearing at sea in 1890).
Other royals like Princess Maria Antonia of the Two Sicilies and various exiled or retired nobility.

This era cemented Gmunden’s reputation as a refined lakeside destination. Infrastructure improvements, including railways, boosted accessibility.

20th Century: Wars and Modern Developments
During World War I, Gmunden hosted hospitals for wounded soldiers. In World War II, it had an SS maternity home aligned with Nazi racial policies. Post-war, the town recovered as a tourist and residential center.
Population grew steadily: from around 6,500 in 1869 to over 13,000 by the late 20th century. Industries included ceramics (famous Gmundner Keramik), cement, textiles, and brewing, alongside services for the surrounding rural and tourist areas. Cultural figures like writer Thomas Bernhard and others have ties to the town.
Schloss Ort, after periods of private ownership and neglect, was acquired by the city of Gmunden in 1995 and now serves as a cultural venue and study center.

Modern Gmunden
Today, Gmunden blends its medieval heritage, imperial legacy, and natural beauty. It remains a popular resort with attractions like Seeschloss Ort, the town hall, ceramic traditions, and access to the Salzkammergut lakes and mountains (a UNESCO region). Its history reflects broader Austrian themes: salt-driven economy under Habsburg centralization, peasant revolts, aristocratic retreats, and adaptation to tourism and modernity.

 

Geography

Location and Regional Context
Gmunden lies in the Traun River basin within the broader Salzkammergut, a scenic area of lakes, mountains, and forests stretching from near Salzburg eastward along the Alpine foreland into the Northern Limestone Alps. The region is renowned for its dramatic karst landscapes, glacial lakes, and historical salt mining heritage (the name "Salzkammergut" refers to the Habsburg salt domain).
The town is nestled where the Traun River flows into (and out of) Traunsee, making it a key point in the drainage system feeding eventually into the Danube. It borders several municipalities, including Altmünster to the south, Ohlsdorf and Pinsdorf to the north, and others like Ebensee further along the lake.
Gmunden’s municipality covers about 63.5 km², divided into boroughs such as Gmunden, Gmunden-Ort, Schlagen, Traundorf, and Unterm Stein.

Topography and Landscape
Gmunden occupies a transitional zone at the northern edge of the Northern Limestone Alps. The terrain is highly varied:
Lake and Shoreline: Traunsee dominates the geography. Austria’s deepest lake (max depth ~191–204 m), it spans about 24.5 km², up to 12 km long and 3 km wide, with a surface elevation of 423 m. Its waters are famously crystal-clear and turquoise due to glacial origins and minimal sediment. The lake creates a fjord-like setting with steep mountain drops directly into the water in places.
Mountains and Ridges: The area is encircled by impressive peaks. Prominent nearby summits include:
Traunstein (1,691 m / ~5,546 ft), rising dramatically right above the lake.
Erlakogel (~1,570 m).
Wilder Kogel (~2,090 m).
Parts of the Höllengebirge range.
These limestone massifs feature steep cliffs, karst features (caves, sinkholes), and forested slopes. The contrast between the deep lake and towering peaks is a defining visual characteristic.
Valleys and Lowlands: The town itself sits on relatively flat to gently sloping lakeshore terrain with meadows, some agricultural land, and urban development. The broader basin includes glacial deposits, river terraces, and forested areas. To the north, the landscape opens toward the Alpine foreland with lower hills.

The surrounding mountains create a sheltered, enclosed feel while providing numerous hiking and viewpoints. The area is part of a glaciated landscape shaped by Pleistocene ice ages, with U-shaped valleys and moraines.

Geology and Soils
The bedrock is primarily limestone and other carbonate rocks of the Northern Limestone Alps, interspersed with flysch (sandstone/shale) formations. This geology contributes to karst hydrology—underground drainage, springs feeding the lake—and fertile but often rocky or calcareous soils in valleys.
Soils in the region vary: valley bottoms and lakeshores often feature deeper alluvial or glacial deposits (loams, silts), while slopes have shallower, stony soils (Cambisols, Leptosols common in Alpine areas). Vegetation influences soil development, with forests promoting organic-rich layers.

Climate
Gmunden has a temperate oceanic to humid continental climate (Köppen Cfb/Dfb influences), moderated by the lake and protected by surrounding mountains. Key characteristics include:
Mild summers (warm but not extreme) and cold winters with possible snow.
Lake-effect moderation keeps temperatures more stable.
High precipitation due to orographic lift from Alpine air masses, supporting lush forests and meadows.
Elevation and aspect create microclimates—cooler, shadier slopes versus sunnier lakeside areas.

The region experiences pleasant conditions for tourism year-round, with warm lake waters suitable for swimming in summer and snow in higher elevations for winter activities.

Hydrology and Water Features
Traunsee: Fed primarily by the Traun River (and tributaries/springs), it drains northward via the same river. Its great depth and clarity make it ecologically significant.
Traun River: Central to the town’s layout and historical development (transport, industry, salt trade).
Other nearby lakes (e.g., in the broader Salzkammergut) and streams add to the rich aquatic environment.

Vegetation and Land Use
Forests (mixed deciduous and coniferous, including beech, spruce, pine) cover much of the mountainous terrain. Lower areas feature meadows, pastures, and some agriculture. The lakeshore supports riparian vegetation, parks, and promenades in town. Alpine meadows and rocky outcrops appear at higher elevations.
Human land use blends historic town center, tourism infrastructure, light industry (e.g., ceramics), and protected natural areas. The Salzkammergut’s cultural landscape, including Gmunden, holds UNESCO World Heritage status for its harmonious blend of nature and human history.