Location: Map
Area: 140 islands, total 320 km2 (124 sq mi)
Ferry from Biograd, Murter, Primosten, Rogoznica, Vodice, Zadar
Info: (022) 435 740
“On the last day of Creation, God wanted to crown his work and from tears, stars and breath created the Kornati” (JB Shaw)
Kornati Islands National Park (Nacionalni park Kornati) is a stunning marine-protected archipelago in central Dalmatia, Croatia, renowned for its labyrinth of karst islands, crystal-clear waters, and rugged cliffs. Established in 1980, it encompasses 89 islands, islets, and reefs out of a total 152 in the Kornati group, covering approximately 220 square kilometers (85 square miles), with about 75% of the area being sea. Often described as the most indented archipelago in the Mediterranean, it features a minimalist, almost lunar landscape with sparse vegetation, making it a haven for sailors, divers, and nature enthusiasts seeking solitude. The park is part of a UNESCO Tentative List site alongside Telašćica Nature Park, highlighting its exceptional natural and cultural value. With no permanent residents on most islands, it offers a pristine escape, though seasonal fishermen's cottages and restaurants dot the area.
Human presence in the Kornati Islands dates back to prehistoric
times, with evidence of Illyrian settlements from the Iron Age,
including hillforts and burial mounds. During the Roman era, the islands
were used for fishing and agriculture, with remnants like villa rustica
sites and saltworks. The Byzantine period left notable marks, such as
the 6th-century Tureta fortress on Kornat Island, built for defense
against invasions. In the Middle Ages, the islands were owned by Zadar
nobility and used for sheep grazing, leading to the construction of
dry-stone walls that still crisscross the landscape. The name "Kornati"
derives from the largest island, Kornat, possibly from the Latin
"corvus" (raven) or a corruption of "corona" (crown), reflecting the
circular arrangement of some islands.
The modern history of
protection began in the 20th century amid concerns over overfishing and
environmental degradation. In 1980, the Croatian Parliament declared it
a national park to preserve its unique marine and terrestrial
ecosystems. Today, much of the land is privately owned by descendants of
historical shepherds and fishermen from Murter Island, who maintain
traditional practices while adhering to park regulations. The park has
faced challenges like wildfires and tourism pressures but remains a
symbol of Croatia's commitment to conservation.
The Kornati archipelago stretches over 35 kilometers (22 miles) in
length and 13 kilometers (8 miles) in width, forming a dense cluster of
limestone and dolomite islands shaped by karst processes, tectonic
activity, and sea erosion. The terrain is predominantly barren and
rocky, with minimal soil cover, resulting in a stark, otherworldly
appearance often likened to the moon. Iconic features include the
"crowns" (steep sea-facing cliffs) reaching up to 161 meters (528 feet)
on islands like Mana and Klobučar, formed by tectonic tilting and wave
action. The park's underwater topography is equally dramatic, with
depths dropping to 120 meters (394 feet) in channels, caves, and
drop-offs.
Key areas include the main Kornat Island (32 square
kilometers/12 square miles), which hosts the park's administrative
center in Vrulje Bay, and the adjacent Telašćica Nature Park on Dugi
Otok, featuring saltwater Lake Mir and high cliffs. The climate is
Mediterranean, with hot, dry summers (up to 30°C/86°F) and mild winters,
but strong winds like the bora can make navigation challenging. The lack
of freshwater sources has historically limited habitation, contributing
to the park's untouched feel.
Kornati's biodiversity is predominantly marine, boasting one of the richest underwater ecosystems in the Adriatic. The seas host over 850 animal species, including 353 algae, 177 mollusks, 127 bristle worms, and 61 bryozoans, along with vibrant corals, sponges, and sea anemones. Fish populations are diverse, featuring sardines, tuna, groupers, and endangered species like the loggerhead sea turtle and Mediterranean monk seal. Terrestrial life is sparser due to the arid conditions, with about 540 plant species, including endemic sage and olive trees, adapted to rocky soils. Fauna includes reptiles like the Balkan green lizard, birds such as peregrine falcons and Eurasian eagle-owls, and introduced sheep that graze the islands. Conservation efforts focus on protecting these habitats from invasive species, pollution, and climate change impacts like rising sea temperatures.
Standout attractions include the dramatic cliffs of Mana Island, offering panoramic views and hiking trails to viewpoints like Metlina (237 meters/778 feet). Historical sites abound, such as the Byzantine Tureta church and fortress, Illyrian ruins, and WWII submarine pens. The park's underwater world is a diver's paradise, with sites like the Rasip Wall (colorful gorgonians) and numerous wrecks. Popular activities include sailing (with over 100 safe anchorages), kayaking, snorkeling, and guided boat tours exploring hidden coves like Lojena Beach. Fishing is regulated, requiring permits, while hiking trails on Kornat provide insights into traditional olive groves and stone walls. Nearby Telašćica adds saltwater lakes and dolphin sightings.
Access is primarily by boat, with day trips departing from Zadar, Šibenik, or Murter (e.g., from Sali or Zaglav on Dugi Otok). Entrance fees are around 10-15 € per person for day visits (higher for boats, based on size), purchasable online or at park entrances. The park is open year-round, but peak season (June-September) sees crowds; shoulder months offer tranquility. Facilities are limited—no hotels, but private accommodations in fishermen's houses and a few restaurants serve fresh seafood. Visitors should bring water, sunscreen, and respect rules like no fires or littering. Guided tours (50-100 €) include swimming stops and meals. Reviews praise its raw beauty, rating it highly (4.5/5 on average), though some note the need for good weather. For more details, visit the official site (np-kornati.hr).