The Church of St. Krševan (Crkva Svetog Krševana), also known as the Church of St. Chrysogonus, is a historic sacral monument in Šibenik, Croatia, located in the Old Town on Don Krste Stošić Street. Dating back to the 12th century, it is the oldest preserved church in Šibenik, originally constructed in the Romanesque style. Over time, it underwent significant Gothic modifications, reflecting the city’s architectural evolution under Venetian influence. Once a pilgrimage site known locally as St. Antu (St. Anthony the Hermit), the church was heavily damaged during World War II and has since been repurposed as the Gallery of St. Krševan, an art exhibition space. Its historical significance, architectural features, and unique artifacts, such as Croatia’s oldest bell from 1266, make it a compelling stop in Šibenik’s historic core.
Romanesque Origins: Built in the 12th century, the church’s original
Romanesque design is evident in its simple, robust structure,
characterized by rounded arches and solid stone construction typical of
early medieval Dalmatian architecture. Traces of this style remain
despite later alterations.
Gothic Modifications: In the 15th century,
the church underwent significant changes, adopting Gothic hallmarks such
as pointed arches and ribbed vaulting. A notable addition was a western
staircase, constructed in 1439 by Venetian master Antonio Bussat, who
also worked on the Cathedral of St. James. The staircase was removed in
the mid-19th century, but its lintel, inscribed with the construction
year and featuring a relief of two fraternity members kneeling before
the Mother of God, remains visible.
Current State: The church’s
exterior is modest, with a single-nave layout and a small bell gable,
typical of Šibenik’s smaller churches. The southern wall houses a low
pedestal displaying Croatia’s oldest bell, dated 1266, recovered from
the seabed near Silba by Krapanj sponge divers. The interior, now an art
gallery, is adapted for exhibitions, with minimal original
ecclesiastical decor preserved, focusing instead on modern art displays.
Early History: As Šibenik’s oldest sacral building, St. Krševan is
tied to the city’s medieval development around the 12th-century castrum
(fortress) and suburbium. Its construction predates many of Šibenik’s
other churches, marking it as a foundational element of the city’s
Christian heritage.
Fraternity and Pilgrimage: The church was
associated with the Fraternity of St. Anthony the Abbot, particularly
shoemakers, who venerated their patron saint here. Known locally as St.
Antu, it served as a pilgrimage site until World War II, drawing
devotees for its spiritual significance.
World War II and
Repurposing: The church suffered extensive damage during World War II,
ending its religious function. Post-war restoration transformed it into
an exhibition space for the Šibenik City Museum, and it now operates as
the Gallery of St. Krševan, hosting contemporary art exhibitions. This
shift reflects Šibenik’s efforts to preserve its heritage while adapting
historic spaces for modern use.
Croatia’s Oldest Bell: The 1266 bell,
found underwater near Silba, is a remarkable artifact, symbolizing
Šibenik’s maritime and medieval history. Its display outside the church
adds archaeological intrigue, connecting visitors to the city’s distant
past.
Venetian Influence: The 15th-century Gothic renovations,
including Bussat’s staircase, reflect Venetian architectural trends,
aligning with Šibenik’s role as a key Venetian stronghold in Dalmatia.
The church’s evolution mirrors the city’s cultural ties to Venice.
The Church of St. Krševan is nestled in Šibenik’s pedestrian-only Old Town, along the narrow Don Krste Stošić Street, surrounded by cobblestone alleys and stone buildings exuding medieval charm. Its location near the Cathedral of St. James (a UNESCO site), the Renaissance Loggia, and the Rector’s Palace places it within a vibrant historical cluster. The small piazza around the church is quiet, offering a contrast to the bustling Trg Republike Hrvatske nearby. The presence of the 1266 bell and the church’s unassuming facade create a sense of discovery, appealing to those exploring Šibenik’s lesser-known gems. The proximity to cafés and the waterfront adds to the area’s lively yet relaxed Mediterranean vibe.
Accessibility: The church, as the Gallery of St. Krševan, is open to
the public during exhibition hours, typically aligned with cultural
venues (e.g., 10:00–18:00, with possible seasonal variations). Entry
fees, if any, are modest, often tied to specific exhibitions. Visitors
should check with the Šibenik City Museum or tourism office for current
schedules, as access depends on gallery programming.
Experience:
Reviews describe the church as a “hidden gem,” with the 1266 bell and
Gothic lintel as standout features. The gallery’s art exhibitions
attract a niche audience, with some visitors noting unique experiences,
such as hearing piano practice inside. Its small size and repurposed
function make it a quick but enriching stop, though some may find the
lack of religious context disappointing. The church’s historical layers
and quiet setting are praised by those seeking offbeat attractions.
Nearby Attractions: The Cathedral of St. James, with its Gothic and
Renaissance artistry, is a 5-minute walk away. The Renaissance Loggia,
Bishop’s Palace, and Church of the Holy Spirit are nearby, as is the
Rector’s Palace, home to the Šibenik City Museum. St. Michael’s Fortress
and Šubićevac Fortress, offering panoramic views, are accessible via
short walks or climbs.
The Church of St. Krševan is a vital link to Šibenik’s medieval past, but its transformation into an art gallery raises questions about the balance between preservation and adaptation. The loss of its religious function and much of its original interior decor may diminish its spiritual resonance for some, though the gallery ensures its continued relevance. The 15th-century Venetian modifications, while artistically significant, reflect Šibenik’s historical subjugation to foreign powers, a nuance often overlooked in favor of local pride. The 1266 bell is a remarkable artifact, but its underwater discovery lacks detailed documentation, leaving gaps in its story. The church’s small size and niche appeal as a gallery may limit its draw compared to grander sites like the Cathedral of St. James, yet its historical depth and unique features make it a rewarding stop for those exploring Šibenik’s layered heritage.