Motovun, Croatia, is a captivating medieval hilltop village in central Istria, perched 277 meters (886 feet) above the Mirna River Valley. Often compared to Tuscany for its rolling green hills, vineyards, and charming stone architecture, Motovun is one of Istria’s most picturesque and well-preserved towns, blending Croatian and Italian influences due to its historical ties to the Venetian Empire. Below is a detailed description of its history, architecture, cultural significance, gastronomy, and modern appeal.
Motovun’s history stretches back to ancient times, with Celtic and
Illyrian fortresses once occupying its strategic hilltop location. The
name "Motovun" (or Montona in Italian) derives from the Celtic Montona,
meaning "a town in the hills." In the 10th and 11th centuries, it was
under the control of the Bishop of Poreč, but from 1278, it became a key
outpost of the Venetian Empire, which left an indelible mark on its
architecture and culture. During Venetian rule, the town was fortified
with robust walls, which remain a defining feature today.
The
town also has notable historical figures tied to it, including
Renaissance music printer Andrea Antico, born in Motovun in 1495, who
pioneered movable wooden types for printing musical scores, and racing
driver Mario Andretti, born in 1940, who grew up racing hand-crafted
wooden cars through Motovun’s steep streets before emigrating to the
United States after World War II.
Motovun is a fortified medieval town, its compact center encircled by
two rings of well-preserved walls, dating from the 11th to 16th
centuries, which serve as walkways offering panoramic views of Istria’s
vineyards, forests, and distant mountains. The town’s layout is a maze
of narrow, cobblestone streets lined with stone houses, many adorned
with terracotta roofs, evoking a timeless, storybook quality. Cars are
generally prohibited within the walls, preserving the
pedestrian-friendly ambiance, though visitors must ascend a steep,
1,052-step staircase—the longest in Istria—or take a shuttle bus from
the base of the hill.
Key architectural landmarks include:
Church of St. Stephen (Crkva Sv. Stjepana): Located on the main square,
Trg Andrea Antico, this 17th-century Renaissance church is attributed to
Venetian architect Andrea Palladio. Its interior features marble statues
of St. Stephen and St. Laurence by Francesco Bonazzo and a 17th-century
Venetian painting of the Last Supper. The adjacent 13th-century
Romanesque-Gothic bell tower, originally a lookout post, stands 27
meters tall and offers sweeping views for those who climb it.
Municipal Palace: A Romanesque structure in the central square, it is
one of the largest secular buildings of its period in Istria, reflecting
the town’s historical civic importance.
Town Walls and Gates:
Decorated with Venetian symbols like the Lion of St. Mark, coats-of-arms
of ruling families, and 1st-century Roman gravestones, the walls are
both a historical monument and a scenic walkway.
Trg Andrea Antico:
The main square, named after the Renaissance composer, is a charming
gathering spot with cafes, the town loggia, and views of the Mirna
Valley.
The town’s architecture blends Romanesque, Gothic, and
Renaissance styles, with Venetian influences evident in its elegant
piazzas, gates, and stone lions. Motovun’s compact size—home to just 531
residents in the village proper—enhances its intimate, almost magical
atmosphere.
Motovun is steeped in cultural heritage, celebrated for its
historical and artistic contributions. It is the setting for the
folklore-inspired tale of Veli Jože, a gentle giant symbolizing the
Croatian struggle for equality, penned by writer Vladimir Nazor in the
early 20th century. The story, rooted in local folktales, is
commemorated with a festival every September, featuring storytelling,
entertainment, and celebrations of Istrian culture.
Since 1999,
Motovun has hosted the Motovun Film Festival in late July or early
August, an internationally renowned event showcasing independent and
avant-garde films from the U.S. and Europe. The festival transforms the
town into a lively hub, with open-air screenings, exhibitions, concerts,
and parties attracting around 30,000 visitors over five days. Its
informal, relaxed vibe contrasts with more glamorous festivals like
Cannes, making it a favorite among cinephiles.
The town’s
Venetian past and Italian cultural influence are evident in bilingual
street signs (Croatian and Italian) and the 192 residents who speak
Italian as their mother tongue. This Italo-Croatian blend gives Motovun
a unique identity within Istria.
Motovun is a gastronomic paradise, renowned for its truffles,
wines, and olive oils, which draw foodies from around the world. The
nearby Motovun Forest, a 10-square-kilometer protected area along
the Mirna River, is one of the few places in Croatia where both
black and white truffles (Tuber magnatum) thrive, thanks to its
moist soil and English oak trees. In 1999, a 1.31-kilogram white
truffle found here by Giancarlo Zigante held the Guinness World
Record for the largest ever discovered, cementing Motovun’s status
as a truffle capital. Truffle hunting with specially trained dogs is
a popular activity, often paired with tastings and meals.
Local restaurants, such as Konoba Mondo and Pod Voltom, serve
truffle-infused dishes like gnocchi, pasta, and even truffle ice
cream, often paired with local wines like Teran (a robust red) and
Malvasija (a crisp white). The Zigante Restaurant in nearby Livade
is an upscale slow-food destination, showcasing Zigante’s truffle
and olive oil products. The Teran Wine and Truffle Festival in
mid-October celebrates these specialties, offering tastings and
culinary experiences.
Motovun’s vineyards produce
award-winning wines, with wineries like Benvenuti, Fakin, and Tomaz
offering tours and tastings. The region’s olive oils, particularly
from producers like Giancarlo Zigante and Klaudio Ipsa, are also
world-class, featured in the prestigious Flos Olei guide.
Motovun’s hilltop setting offers breathtaking views of the Mirna Valley, with its vineyards, olive groves, and the Motovun Forest. The forest, occasionally flooded to preserve its ecosystem, is a haven for wildlife and truffle foraging. The Mirna River, also known as the Quieto, flows below, adding to the scenic beauty. Outdoor activities like cycling, e-biking, hiking, and tandem paragliding allow visitors to explore the lush countryside, while the nearby Parenzana Trail, a former narrow-gauge railway from Trieste to Poreč, is popular for walking and biking.
Motovun is one of Istria’s most visited inland destinations, yet it
retains an authentic, less touristy feel compared to coastal hotspots
like Dubrovnik or Split. Its small size makes it ideal for a half-day or
full-day trip, though staying overnight allows visitors to experience
its quiet charm after day-trippers depart. The town is accessible by car
(a 30-minute drive from Poreč or Rovinj) or limited bus services via
Pazin, with parking at the hill’s base.
Accommodation options
include the Hotel Kaštel, a renovated 17th-century palace in the town
center, and the Roxanich Winery & Design Hotel in nearby Livade,
offering luxury and truffle-focused dining. Budget travelers can find
apartments or agrotourism stays, while the nearby Istarske Toplice
thermal spa resort provides a wellness retreat.
Popular
activities include wandering the medieval alleys, shopping for truffle
products, grappa, and olive oil at local stores, and visiting galleries
like the Art Studio Isabella. The Motovun Parenzana Tunnel, a historic
site, and truffle-hunting tours with operators like Svilicic are also
highlights. The town’s tentative UNESCO World Heritage status since 2007
underscores its cultural and historical value.
In addition to the Motovun Film Festival and Veli Jože Festival, the town hosts the Teran Wine and Truffle Festival in October and various cultural events year-round, including concerts and exhibitions. These events, combined with Motovun’s scenic beauty, make it a year-round destination, though summer (especially July for the film festival) is peak season, while winter (December to February) offers lower hotel prices.
Motovun’s charm lies in its simplicity and authenticity. Visitors can spend hours strolling the walls, sipping wine at a café on Trg Andrea Antico, or enjoying a truffle-laden meal with valley views. The town’s small size ensures an intimate experience, yet its cultural and culinary offerings rival larger destinations. Its photogenic streets, often shrouded in mist, have even served as a filming location, notably for the 2024 film Speak No Evil, where it stood in for Tuscany.