The Palazzo Treves de Bonfili, also known as Palazzo Barozzi Emo Treves de Bonfili, is a historic palace in the San Marco sestiere of Venice, Italy, strategically located at the confluence of the Grand Canal and the Rio di San Moisè, opposite the Punta della Dogana. This prime position, offering views of the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute and San Giorgio Maggiore, underscores its historical role as a hub for maritime trade. Originating in the 12th century as a fortified residence of the Barozzi family, the palace evolved through ownership by the Emo and Treves de Bonfili families, becoming a pinnacle of Neoclassical interior design in the 19th century. Recently renovated and painted pink, it now houses luxury apartments under the name Palazzo Ca’Nova, owned by Marchesi Alberto and Barbara Berlingieri.
The Palazzo Treves de Bonfili’s history spans nearly a millennium,
reflecting Venice’s mercantile, social, and cultural evolution. In the
12th century, the Barozzi family, a prominent Venetian patrician clan,
constructed a crenelated palace on the site, known as the Ca’ Grande dei
Barozzi, one of the city’s most significant pre-Gothic structures.
Designed for trade, it featured a loggia, portico, and two square
towers, leveraging its strategic location near the Rialto via the Rio di
San Moisè, which connects to the Rio San Luca and Palazzo Grimani. This
positioning made it ideal for maritime commerce, a hallmark of Venetian
wealth.
In the 18th century, the palace underwent extensive
renovations, likely initiated by the Barozzi or their successors, but
these were interrupted when ownership transferred to the Emo family, a
noble lineage with ties to ecclesiastical and military figures like
Giorgio Emo, Archbishop of Corfu. The Emo family occupied the palace
until 1827, when it was acquired by Isacco and Jacopo Treves, Jewish
bankers ennobled as Barons de Bonfili by the Austrian Empire for their
financial contributions. The Treves family, exemplifying the
emancipation and integration of Venice’s Jewish community in the 19th
century, transformed the palace into a cultural and artistic showcase.
Under Jacopo Treves, a noted patron of the arts, the palace’s
interiors were redecorated in a Neoclassical style, making it one of
Venice’s finest examples of this aesthetic. The Treves enriched the
palace with works by leading artists and acquired two monumental statues
by Antonio Canova, Hector and Ajax, displayed in a purpose-built apsed
room. The family also added a belvedere (specola) on the roof, offering
panoramic views of the lagoon, mountains, and sea, enhancing the
palace’s prestige.
In the 20th century, the palace faced neglect,
with its exterior deteriorating. Ownership passed to the Berlingieri
family in 1963, with Marchesa Barbara Berlingieri becoming a prominent
figure in its preservation. Barbara, who moved to the palace upon her
marriage, has lived there for over 55 years and is actively involved in
Venice’s cultural heritage through organizations like the Save Venice
Committee and the Order of Malta. Her son, Alessandro Berlingieri,
continues restoration efforts, ensuring the palace’s legacy. Recent
renovations, completed by 2018, restored the façade and interiors, and
the palace now operates as Palazzo Ca’Nova, offering luxury apartments
managed by Trust&Travel. These apartments, named after the Canova
statues, cater to affluent visitors, maintaining the palace’s tradition
of elite hospitality.
A separate historical note involves a
different Palazzo Treves dei Bonfili in Cannaregio, near the Ghetto
Nuovissimo. Originally known as Palazzo Zanoli-Ludovici, it was excluded
from the Jewish Ghetto until 1780, when it was sold to the Treves family
and incorporated into the enclosure. This distinct structure, a
casa-fondaco with four prestigious apartments, is not the San Marco
palace discussed here but highlights the Treves family’s broader
influence in Venice.
The Palazzo Treves de Bonfili is a fascinating blend of pre-Gothic, Renaissance, and Neoclassical architectural styles, shaped by its 12th-century origins and subsequent transformations. Attributed to Bartolomeo Manopola and later remodeled by Michele Sumachi (Soummakis), a Greek speculator, the palace’s design reflects Venice’s evolving architectural trends and mercantile needs.
The palace’s main façade, facing the Rio di San Moisè rather than the
Grand Canal, is its most distinctive feature, as the canal’s width
allowed for a grander design. Key elements include:
Asymmetrical
Grand Canal Façade: The façade is divided into two sections due to a
19th-century extension by the Treves family. The right side, with two
prominent serlianas (tripartite windows with a central arch) and a grand
water portal, is a fine example of Renaissance architecture, featuring
Ionic and Mannerist columns. The left side, plainer and surviving from
the original pre-Gothic structure, creates an asymmetrical effect.
Rio di San Moisè Façade: This broader façade, developed in height and
length, appears disproportionate to the narrow rio, suggesting an early
Baroque influence with Renaissance elements like the central serliana.
Each floor has 15 windows, often paired, with some blinded, and the
monumental portal serves as the axis of symmetry. The façade’s scale and
ambition reflect the palace’s trade-oriented design.
Belvedere: Added
by the Treves in 1827, this rooftop terrace, encircled by a railing,
offers sweeping views of the Venetian lagoon, mountains, and sea, a rare
feature among Grand Canal palazzi.
Pink Exterior: Recent renovations
painted the façade pink, making it a striking landmark, though some
critics argue this color detracts from its historical authenticity.
The palace’s seven levels, including two piani nobili, two mezzanines,
and a sub-roof level, reach a height of 24 meters, with a total surface
area of 1,800 square meters. The 3,200-square-meter façade and
900-square-meter roof underwent significant restoration by 2018,
reinforcing structural integrity while preserving architectural details
like Istrian stone pilasters, frontons, and marble balustrades.
The interior, transformed by the Treves in 1827, is a masterpiece of
Neoclassical design, orchestrated by Giuseppe Borsato, a painter and
decorator renowned for his work at Teatro La Fenice. Key features
include:
Neoclassical Rooms: The interiors were restructured
without altering the original plan or unfinished façade, creating a
harmonious Neoclassical aesthetic. The main staircase, redesigned by
Borsato, leads to opulent salons adorned with inlaid floors, stucco, and
frescoes.
Apsed Room for Canova Statues: A dedicated space with a
semicircular apse was built to house Antonio Canova’s Hector and Ajax,
showcasing the Treves’ commitment to art patronage. This room, decorated
by Borsato, features Neoclassical motifs and elegant proportions.
Specola (Belvedere): The rooftop terrace, accessible via internal
staircases, is both a functional and aesthetic addition, enhancing the
palace’s social prestige.
Modern Apartments: As Palazzo Ca’Nova, the
palace now contains luxury apartments with Borsato-designed furniture
from 1826, Simmons beds (used by Four Seasons hotels), and panoramic
wallpapers depicting 16th-century Constantinople. A shared terrace on
the fifth floor offers guests views of the Santa Maria della Salute
cupola.
The 2018 restoration by SettenGenesio focused on structural
consolidation, façade restoration, and the recovery of approximately 50%
of the interior spaces, ensuring the palace’s longevity while
maintaining its historical character.
The Palazzo Treves de Bonfili is renowned for its Neoclassical
interiors and significant art collection, curated by Jacopo Treves in
the 19th century. While some works have been dispersed, the palace
retains a rich artistic legacy.
1. Antonio Canova’s Sculptures
Hector and Ajax (1827): These two monumental statues by Antonio Canova,
acquired by the Treves, are housed in a purpose-built apsed room with a
Grand Canal view. Their placement in a Neoclassical setting, designed by
Giuseppe Borsato, underscores the family’s artistic ambitions. The
statues, depicting Trojan heroes, are celebrated for their dynamic
composition and classical elegance.
2. Neoclassical Decorations
by Giuseppe Borsato
Apsed Room: Decorated by Borsato with frescoes,
stucco, and inlaid floors, this space complements the Canova statues,
creating a cohesive Neoclassical ensemble.
Main Staircase and Salons:
Borsato collaborated with artists like Giovanni Demin and Sebastiano
Santi to adorn the piano nobile with frescoes, stucco friezes, and
decorative panels, emphasizing symmetry and classical motifs.
Furniture: Some original furniture, designed by Borsato in 1826, remains
in the Ca’Nova apartments, blending historical authenticity with modern
comfort.
3. Works by Contemporary Artists
Jacopo Treves
commissioned works from leading 19th-century artists, transforming the
palace into a gallery of Venetian art:
Angelo Pizzi: Contributed
sculptures or decorative elements, enhancing the Neoclassical aesthetic.
Francesco Hayez: Provided paintings, likely historical or allegorical,
reflecting the Romantic-Neoclassical transition.
Michelangelo
Grigoletti and Antonio Bosa: Added frescoes and sculptures, enriching
the interior’s opulence.
Giovanni Demin and Sebastiano Santi:
Collaborated on frescoes and decorative panels, creating a unified
artistic program.
These works, described as “the most select works of
burin and brush” in historical accounts, connected the palace’s
interiors to the broader evolution of Venetian art.
4. Historical
Significance of the Collection
The Treves’ collection, while
partially dispersed, was a testament to their patronage and integration
into Venetian high society. The palace’s interiors, described as
“magnificently decorated in a hundred ways,” served as a cultural salon,
hosting artworks that chronicled artistic phases and personal milestones
of the Treves family.
The Palazzo Treves de Bonfili encapsulates Venice’s mercantile,
cultural, and social history across centuries. Its 12th-century origins
as a Barozzi stronghold highlight Venice’s early trade dominance, with
the Ca’ Grande dei Barozzi rivaling the Fondaco dei Turchi in pre-Gothic
splendor. The Emo family’s tenure, linked to figures like Giorgio Emo,
reflects the Venetian Republic’s ecclesiastical and noble networks.
The Treves de Bonfili family’s ownership from 1827 marks a pivotal
moment, showcasing the emancipation of Venice’s Jewish community. As
barons ennobled by Austria, the Treves integrated into Venetian society,
using the palace to display their wealth, philanthropy, and cultural
sophistication. Jacopo Treves’s patronage, particularly his
collaboration with Giuseppe Borsato and acquisition of Canova’s statues,
positioned the palace as a Neoclassical exemplar, rivaling contemporary
palazzi like Palazzo Grassi.
The palace’s 20th-century decline
and 21st-century restoration reflect Venice’s broader challenges with
preservation amid rising sea levels and tourism pressures. Marchesa
Barbara Berlingieri’s stewardship, alongside her work with Save Venice
and the Order of Malta, underscores the palace’s role in cultural
conservation. Her personal story, moving from Milan to embrace Venetian
life, adds a human dimension, echoed in her gondola explorations with
her aunt, Baronessa Treves, and friendships with figures like Prince and
Princess Michael of Kent.
As Palazzo Ca’Nova, the palace
continues to serve an elite clientele, offering luxury apartments that
blend historical authenticity with modern comfort. Its location at the
Grand Canal’s mouth, near Piazza San Marco (400 meters) and cultural
sites like the Pinault Foundation museums, integrates it into Venice’s
vibrant artistic landscape. The palace’s pink façade and belvedere make
it a visual and experiential landmark, celebrated for its views and
historical resonance.
Location: San Marco, Venice, at the confluence of the Grand Canal and
Rio di San Moisè, opposite Punta della Dogana. Accessible via the San
Moisè or Giglio vaporetto stops (Line 1) or a 5-minute walk from Piazza
San Marco.
Access: The palace operates as Palazzo Ca’Nova, offering
luxury apartments for rent (www.canova-venezia.com). Public access is
limited to guests, but the façade can be viewed from the Grand Canal or
Rio di San Moisè. The shared terrace is available to apartment guests.
Opening Hours: Apartments are available year-round, subject to booking.
Contact Trust&Travel (info@trustandtravel.com) for reservations or
inquiries about guided tours, which may be arranged for cultural groups.
Admission: Apartment rates range from €500–€2,000+ per night, depending
on season and size (e.g., Venezia Nobile apartment with terrace). No
public entry fee for viewing the exterior.
Tips for Visitors:
Book
an apartment like Venezia Nobile for access to the fifth-floor terrace
with views of Santa Maria della Salute and the lagoon.
Take a
vaporetto or gondola ride along the Grand Canal to admire the pink
façade and Renaissance serlianas, especially at sunset.
Visit nearby
Piazza San Marco, Harry’s Bar (a national landmark), or the Pinault
Foundation museums for a San Marco itinerary.
Explore the palace’s
history through Marchesa Barbara Berlingieri’s stories, available in
articles or guided tours when offered.
Respect the private nature of
the property; photography from the canal is permitted, but interior
access requires booking.