The Casa di Carlo Goldoni, also known as Palazzo Centani, is a historic building in the San Polo sestiere of Venice, Italy, renowned as the birthplace of the celebrated Venetian playwright Carlo Goldoni (1707–1793). Located at Calle dei Nomboli 2794, near the San Tomà vaporetto stop, this Gothic-style palace now serves as a museum and study center dedicated to Goldoni’s life, works, and Venetian theatrical history. Managed by the Fondazione Musei Civici di Venezia (MUVE), the Museo Casa di Carlo Goldoni offers visitors an intimate glimpse into 18th-century Venetian life and the legacy of one of Italy’s greatest dramatists.
The Palazzo Centani, constructed in the 15th century, is a typical
Venetian Gothic residence that originally belonged to the Centani (or
Zentani) family, a prominent Venetian lineage. By the early 18th
century, the palace was rented by the Goldoni family, and it was here
that Carlo Goldoni was born on February 25, 1707. Goldoni, often
credited with reforming Italian theater by introducing realistic
characters and social commentary to the commedia dell’arte tradition,
spent his early years in this house, which shaped his understanding of
Venetian society.
Goldoni Family: Carlo’s grandfather owned the
palace, but by the time of Carlo’s birth, the family was renting it due
to financial fluctuations. The house was a hub of intellectual and
artistic activity, influencing Goldoni’s early exposure to theater.
Later Ownership: After the Goldoni family, the palace passed through
various owners. In 1931, it was donated to the City of Venice by Guido
Cini to preserve Goldoni’s legacy. Restoration efforts in the 1950s,
completed in 1953, transformed the palace into a museum, ensuring its
historical and cultural preservation.
Cultural Role: Today, the Casa
di Carlo Goldoni is not only a museum but also a research center for
theatrical studies, housing archives, a library, and exhibitions that
explore Goldoni’s contributions and the broader history of Venetian
theater.
The Palazzo Centani is a fine example of Venetian Gothic
architecture, a style that flourished in Venice from the 13th to 15th
centuries, characterized by light, elegant forms and an emphasis on
openness to the city’s waterways and light. While modest compared to
grand canal-side palaces like the Ca' d'Oro, its design reflects the
domestic needs of Venice’s mercantile and noble classes.
Façade
Location and Context: Unlike many Venetian palaces, Palazzo Centani is
not directly on the Grand Canal but is set back in a narrow calle (Calle
dei Nomboli), near the Rio di San Tomà. Its façade faces a small
courtyard, a common feature in Venetian Gothic residences, which
provided light and ventilation in the dense urban fabric.
Gothic
Elements: The façade features pointed arches and quatrefoil tracery,
hallmarks of Venetian Gothic. The windows, likely bifora or trifora
(two- or three-light windows), are framed by delicate stonework that
emphasizes verticality and lightness.
Materials: The exterior is
constructed with brick and Istrian limestone, typical of Venetian
architecture for their resistance to the lagoon’s humidity. The façade
may have been plastered and painted, though much of the original
coloring has faded or been restored to a neutral tone.
Courtyard
Access: The palace is accessed via a Gothic portal leading into a small
courtyard, which contains a wellhead (a common feature in Venetian homes
for water collection). This courtyard adds a sense of intimacy and
serves as a transitional space between the calle and the interior.
Interior
The interior of Palazzo Centani has been carefully
restored to evoke its 15th-century origins while accommodating its
modern function as a museum. Key features include:
Ground Floor:
Originally used for storage or commercial purposes, the ground floor now
serves as the museum’s entrance and ticket area. It may retain original
terrazzo flooring or stone paving.
Piano Nobile: The piano nobile
(noble floor), accessed via a staircase, is the heart of the museum.
This floor features:
High ceilings with exposed wooden beams, a
typical Venetian Gothic feature that allowed for spacious, airy rooms.
Frescoes or stucco decorations, though these may be minimal compared to
grander palaces. Any surviving decorative elements reflect the modest
elegance of a merchant family’s home.
Large windows that illuminate
the space, originally designed to capture light from the courtyard.
Upper Floors: The upper floors, once family living quarters, now house
exhibition spaces, a library, and archives. These areas have been
modernized to meet museum standards while preserving historical elements
like wooden floors and window frames.
Staircase and Wellhead: The
Gothic staircase leading to the piano nobile is a highlight, with its
stone steps and simple balustrade. The courtyard’s wellhead, possibly
decorated with carvings, is a surviving artifact of daily life in the
palace.
Restoration
The 1953 restoration aimed to preserve the
palace’s Gothic character while adapting it for public use. Modern
interventions, such as climate control for artifact preservation and
accessibility features, have been sensitively integrated to maintain the
historical ambiance. The restoration also uncovered or enhanced Gothic
details, such as window tracery and ceiling beams, that had been
obscured by later modifications.
The Casa di Carlo Goldoni is a cultural landmark dedicated to
preserving the legacy of Carlo Goldoni and the rich theatrical tradition
of Venice. Its role as a museum and study center makes it a unique
destination for scholars, theater enthusiasts, and tourists.
Museum Exhibits
The Museo Casa di Carlo Goldoni, opened in 1953,
offers a compact but rich exploration of Goldoni’s life and Venetian
theater. Key exhibits include:
Goldoni’s Life and Works: Displays
of manuscripts, first editions, and personal items (e.g., letters and
portraits) trace Goldoni’s career, from his early plays in Venice to his
later years in Paris. Highlights include references to masterpieces like
Il Servitore di Due Padroni (The Servant of Two Masters) and La
Locandiera (The Mistress of the Inn).
Venetian Theater: The museum
contextualizes Goldoni’s reforms within the tradition of commedia
dell’arte, showcasing masks, costumes, and stage models. It explores how
Goldoni introduced realistic characters and social themes, moving away
from the improvisational style of commedia.
18th-Century Venice:
Rooms recreate the domestic environment of Goldoni’s childhood, with
period furniture, artworks, and household items that evoke the daily
life of a Venetian family.
Puppet Theater: A notable exhibit is the
Teatrino delle Marionette, a small puppet theater from the Ca’ Grimani
ai Servi, featuring 18th-century marionettes from the collection of
Maria Grimani. This display highlights the diversity of Venetian
theatrical forms beyond spoken drama.
Temporary Exhibitions: The
museum hosts rotating exhibits on theater history, often drawing from
its extensive archives and collaborating with international
institutions.
Study Center
The palace houses a library and
archive specializing in theatrical studies, with a focus on Goldoni and
Venetian drama. The collection includes:
Rare books and
manuscripts related to Goldoni’s plays.
Documents on Venetian theater
companies and performance spaces, such as the Teatro San Luca (now
Teatro Goldoni).
Visual materials, including engravings and sketches
of 18th-century stage designs. Scholars can access these resources for
research, making the Casa di Carlo Goldoni a hub for academic study.
Cultural Role
Goldoni’s Legacy: The museum celebrates Goldoni as
a pioneer of modern Italian theater, whose works remain widely
performed. His emphasis on social realism and character-driven
narratives influenced European drama, including the works of Molière and
later playwrights.
Venetian Identity: By preserving Goldoni’s
birthplace, the museum reinforces Venice’s historical role as a cultural
and artistic center. It connects visitors to the city’s 18th-century
intellectual milieu, when Venice was a hub for literature, music, and
theater.
Public Engagement: The museum offers educational programs,
guided tours, and theatrical performances, often in collaboration with
local schools and cultural organizations. These initiatives keep
Goldoni’s legacy alive for new generations.
Visitor Experience
Intimate Setting: Unlike larger museums like the Gallerie
dell’Accademia, the Casa di Carlo Goldoni is small and focused, ideal
for a 30–60-minute visit. Reviews on platforms like Tripadvisor praise
its informative displays and cozy ambiance, though some note its limited
size.
Accessibility: The museum is accessible via the San Tomà
vaporetto stop (a 2-minute walk) or a 10-minute walk from the Rialto
Bridge. It is part of the MUVE museum network, allowing entry with a
combined ticket that includes other sites like the Doge’s Palace and Ca’
Rezzonico.
Pricing and Hours: As of 2025, admission is approximately
€5–8 (discounts for students and seniors), with free entry for MUVE pass
holders. The museum is typically open daily from 10:00 AM to 5:00 PM,
though hours may vary seasonally.
The Casa di Carlo Goldoni is located in the San Polo sestiere, one of
Venice’s most vibrant and central districts. San Polo is known for its
bustling Rialto Market, historic churches like Santa Maria Gloriosa dei
Frari, and lively campi (squares) such as Campo San Polo.
Nearby
Landmarks:
Rialto Bridge (10-minute walk): Venice’s iconic bridge and
market area.
Ca’ Rezzonico (5-minute walk): A museum of 18th-century
Venice, complementing the Casa di Carlo Goldoni’s focus on the same
period.
Scuola Grande di San Rocco (5-minute walk): A masterpiece of
Renaissance art with Tintoretto’s paintings.
Dining and Amenities:
The area around San Tomà offers dining options like Antiche Carampane
(traditional Venetian seafood) and All’Arco (cicchetti bar for small
plates). Cafés and gelaterias along Calle dei Nomboli provide quick
stops for visitors.
Transport: The San Tomà vaporetto stop connects
to major routes along the Grand Canal, while Piazzale Roma and Santa
Lucia station are a 15-minute walk or short waterbus ride away.
The
neighborhood’s mix of tourist attractions and local life makes it an
ideal base for exploring Venice’s cultural heritage.