The Palazzo Marcello dei Leoni is a historic palace situated in the San Polo sestiere of Venice, Italy, along the Grand Canal between the Rio di San Tomà and the Palazzo Dolfin. This 17th-century structure, built for the noble Marcello family, is distinguished by its simple yet elegant facade and its name, which derives from two worn lion statues flanking the main entrance, likely repurposed from the nearby Church of San Tomà after its 14th-century reconstruction. While less ornate than Venice’s grand Gothic or Renaissance palazzi, the palazzo’s understated charm, historical associations, and current use as luxury apartments make it a notable feature of the city’s architectural and cultural landscape.
The Palazzo Marcello dei Leoni stands on the site of an earlier
palace, documented in 16th-century chronicles as a venue for lavish
festivities and home to a significant private art collection featuring
works by Giorgione, Titian, and Giovanni Bellini. The Marcello family,
one of Venice’s ancient patrician dynasties, acquired the property in
the 17th century, rebuilding it to reflect their status. The Marcellos
claimed descent from the Roman Claudii Marcelli and were prominent in
Venetian governance, trade, and culture, producing figures like the
musician Benedetto Marcello and the naval captain Lorenzo Marcello,
though these individuals are more closely tied to the Palazzo Marcello
in Cannaregio. The San Polo palazzo, however, is linked to the family’s
broader legacy, with the lion statues—possibly from the 13th-century
Church of San Tomà—adding a distinctive epithet, “dei Leoni” (of the
Lions).
In the late 19th century, the palazzo was home to Pompeo
Gherardo Molmenti (1852–1928), a Venetian historian, writer, and
politician who authored influential books on Venetian history, including
Venice: Its Individual Growth from the Earliest Beginnings and La Storia
di Venezia nella Vita Privata. Molmenti’s residence here underscores the
palazzo’s role as a cultural hub, hosting intellectual and artistic
activities. The Marcello family’s ownership persisted until at least the
19th century, after which the palazzo, like many Venetian residences,
transitioned to private hands due to economic shifts following the
Venetian Republic’s fall in 1797.
The palazzo’s location in San
Polo, Venice’s smallest and most central sestiere, places it in the
city’s historic commercial heart, near the Rialto Bridge and Campo dei
Frari. San Polo, settled before the 9th century, is known for its
vibrant markets and cultural landmarks, such as the Basilica di Santa
Maria Gloriosa dei Frari and the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, making the
palazzo a key part of this dynamic urban fabric. Its position along the
Fondamenta del Traghetto, with gondola mooring posts offering views of
the Rialto Bridge, enhances its historical and touristic appeal.
The Palazzo Marcello dei Leoni is a modest palazzo compared to
Venice’s grander residences, characterized by a simple 17th-century
facade that prioritizes functionality over ostentation. Its
architectural style reflects the transition from Renaissance to early
Baroque influences, with a focus on clarity and restraint, suitable for
a secondary noble residence. Key architectural features include:
Facade: The Grand Canal facade is understated, featuring round-arched
windows on the second story, a departure from the pointed ogival arches
of Venetian Gothic palazzi like Ca’ d’Oro. The ground floor includes a
water portal (porta d’acqua), essential for canal access, likely framed
in Istrian stone and flanked by rectangular windows, facilitating trade
or transport. The second-story windows, described as round-arched,
suggest a Renaissance or early Baroque influence, with minimal
decorative tracery compared to gotico fiorito designs. The facade’s
simplicity, possibly plastered or faced with brick, aligns with its
practical role, though the lion statues at the main entrance add a
distinctive sculptural element. These worn reliefs, crafted in Istrian
limestone and dating to the 13th century, are believed to originate from
the Church of San Tomà’s late 14th-century rebuilding, giving the
palazzo its name. The facade’s clean lines and modest scale contrast
with the ornate palazzi nearby, such as Palazzo Grassi, reflecting a
more utilitarian aesthetic.
Structural Layout: The palazzo follows
the typical Venetian palazzo plan, with a ground floor (androne) for
commercial or storage purposes, accessible via the water portal and
likely used for goods or gondola access. The piano nobile (noble floor)
above housed the Marcello family’s grand salons, illuminated by the
round-arched windows for receptions or cultural events, with high
ceilings to accommodate social gatherings. Upper floors served as
additional living quarters or storage, with a possible mezzanine for
service spaces. The palazzo’s compact footprint, constrained by the
Grand Canal’s narrow plots, likely includes a small internal courtyard
or light well for ventilation, a common feature in San Polo’s dense
urban fabric. The portico along the Fondamenta del Traghetto, noted in
sources, provides a shaded entrance from the gondola mooring posts,
enhancing accessibility. The palazzo’s layout supports its current use
as two luxury apartments, sharing a common entrance landing, with a
total area of about 250 square meters.
Materials and Construction:
The building is constructed with standard Venetian materials: brick for
the walls, Istrian stone for the portal, window frames, and lion
reliefs, and timber beams for floors and ceilings. Lightweight larch or
fir from the Dolomites was used for beams to resist humidity and provide
flexibility against Venice’s shifting foundations, a critical adaptation
for canal-side structures. The lion statues, crafted in Istrian
limestone, are weathered but significant, likely repurposed from San
Tomà’s Gothic reconstruction. The facade’s brick infill, possibly
plastered, protects against canal moisture, with recent restorations
maintaining its historical appearance. The round-arched windows, simpler
than Gothic tracery, reflect a cost-effective design, suitable for a
secondary Marcello residence.
Interior: The interior, now renovated
as luxury apartments under the name Do Leoni, blends historical features
with modern comforts. The piano nobile, comprising two independent
apartments (one with three double bedrooms, including a master with
en-suite bathroom), features high beamed ceilings, Venetian terrazzo or
marble flooring, and possibly restored stucco or frescoes from the 17th
century. Sources note a 16th-century art collection with works by
Giorgione, Titian, and Bellini, likely dispersed by the 19th century,
suggesting the salons were once richly decorated. Modern renovations,
completed by Ilaria Di Carlo Architects, include air conditioning,
Wi-Fi, and contemporary furnishings, with one apartment boasting a canal
view and another facing the Fondamenta del Traghetto. The shared
entrance landing, accessible via a grand staircase, preserves the
palazzo’s historical ambiance, with the portico and gondola access
enhancing its Venetian character. The apartments’ design, described as
intertwining “Venetian history, modern luxury, and comfort,” reflects a
careful balance of preservation and adaptation.
The Palazzo Marcello dei Leoni holds cultural and historical value as
a reflection of the Marcello family’s legacy, San Polo’s vibrant urban
context, and Venice’s architectural and social history:
Marcello
Family Legacy: The palazzo underscores the Marcello family’s prominence,
with their contributions to Venetian governance, culture, and naval
affairs. While the Cannaregio Palazzo Marcello is linked to Benedetto
and Alessandro Marcello, the San Polo palazzo’s association with the
family reflects their widespread influence. The lion statues, possibly
from San Tomà, connect the palazzo to Venice’s medieval past,
symbolizing strength and nobility. The residence of Pompeo Gherardo
Molmenti, a key figure in documenting Venetian history, further elevates
its intellectual significance, as his works shaped modern understanding
of the city’s cultural evolution.
Architectural Context: The
palazzo’s 17th-century facade, with round-arched windows and minimal
ornamentation, represents a transitional style between Renaissance
clarity and early Baroque restraint, contrasting with the gotico fiorito
of earlier palazzi like Ca’ Bernardo. Its simplicity reflects the
practical needs of a secondary noble residence, while the lion reliefs
add a unique sculptural narrative, tying it to San Tomà’s Gothic
heritage. The palazzo’s modest scale and functional design offer
insights into the diversity of Venetian palazzi, which ranged from grand
showcases to understated family homes.
San Polo Context: Located in
San Polo, the palazzo is part of Venice’s historic commercial heart,
near the Rialto Bridge (430 meters northeast) and cultural landmarks
like the Basilica di Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (200 meters
northwest) and the House of Carlo Goldoni (200 meters south). The
Fondamenta del Traghetto’s gondola posts, offering views of the Rialto,
integrate the palazzo into San Polo’s bustling yet authentic urban
fabric. The sestiere’s markets, established in 1097, and its role as a
social hub for merchants and nobles underscore the palazzo’s historical
connectivity, with the Rio di San Tomà adding a quieter canal-side
charm.
Modern Adaptation: The palazzo’s conversion into luxury
apartments, branded as Do Leoni, reflects Venice’s adaptation of
historic buildings for tourism. The renovation by Ilaria Di Carlo
Architects, noted in a 2024 post on X, preserves the piano nobile’s
historical features while introducing modern amenities, catering to
visitors seeking an immersive Venetian experience. The apartments’ canal
and traghetto views, combined with curated activities like gondola
rides, Venetian cuisine classes, and private photography sessions, align
with San Polo’s touristic vibrancy, offering a blend of “18th-century
Venice” and contemporary luxury.
The Palazzo Marcello dei Leoni is a private residential building,
with its piano nobile renovated into two luxury apartments under the
brand Do Leoni, as detailed in sources like doleoni.com. The apartments,
totaling 250 square meters, include three double bedrooms (one a master
with en-suite bathroom), modern amenities (air conditioning, Wi-Fi), and
historical features like beamed ceilings and terrazzo flooring. They
share a common entrance landing, accessible via a grand staircase, and
offer views of the Grand Canal or Fondamenta del Traghetto, with gondola
mooring posts facilitating canal crossings to the Rialto Bridge. Guest
experiences include curated activities like Venetian cuisine classes
(e.g., risotto al nero di seppia, sarde in saor) and private photography
sessions, immersing visitors in “18th-century Venice.”
The
facade, recently restored, is well-preserved, with the 13th-century lion
reliefs visible at the main entrance, best viewed from the Grand Canal
by vaporetto (Riva de Biasio or San Tomà stops, Lines 1 and 2) or
gondola. Venetian preservation regulations, enforced by the
Superintendency of Venice, protect the facade and key structural
elements, ensuring historical integrity despite internal modernizations.
The palazzo is not open to the public, limiting access to apartment
guests, but its exterior is a highlight for those exploring San Polo,
rated highly for its “beautiful setting” and proximity to attractions
like the Frari (4-minute walk) and Palazzo Grassi (4-minute walk).
Located at Fondamenta del Traghetto, 2809-11b, San Polo, the palazzo
benefits from its central yet quieter position, near Campo San Polo and
the Rialto Market, offering an authentic Venetian experience. Its
cultural legacy, tied to Molmenti’s historical writings and the Marcello
family’s art collection, persists through its architectural narrative
and modern touristic role, as noted in sources and a 2024 X post
highlighting the renovation.