Located in the Cannaregio district of Venice, Palazzetto Da Lezze is a charming Venetian Gothic palace situated along the Grand Canal at the confluence with the Rio di Noale. Positioned between Palazzo Gussoni Grimani Della Vida and Palazzo Boldù, and opposite the grand Ca’ Pesaro, this relatively modest palazzo is a fine example of 15th-century Venetian architecture. Its distinctive Gothic facade, compact scale, and historical ties to the Da Lezze family—a prominent Venetian noble lineage—make it a noteworthy, if lesser-known, gem among Venice’s palazzi. The palace’s well-preserved exterior, unique alchemical reliefs, and serene garden setting contribute to its allure, offering a glimpse into the city’s medieval past.
Palazzetto Da Lezze was constructed in the first half of the 15th
century, during the height of the Venetian Gothic period, for the Da
Lezze family, a patrician clan with significant influence in the
Venetian Republic. The family produced notable figures, including
Giovanni da Lezze di Andrea (1554–1625), a Procurator of San Marco,
though his contributions are more closely associated with the nearby
Palazzo da Lezze (Ca’ Lezze). The Palazzetto’s early history is tied to
the family’s mercantile and political activities, as Cannaregio was a
bustling district with access to both the Grand Canal and the northern
lagoon.
The Da Lezze family’s prominence is further evidenced by
their funeral monument in the Gesuiti church, designed by Jacopo
Sansovino in the mid-16th century, which celebrates patriarchs like
Priam, Andrea, and Giovanni da Lezze. The family’s lineage died out in
1817, but their legacy endures in Venice’s architectural and cultural
fabric. Unlike the larger Palazzo da Lezze, also in Cannaregio, the
Palazzetto is smaller and more residential in character, reflecting the
needs of a noble family for a canal-side residence rather than a grand
commercial fondaco.
In the 19th and 20th centuries, the palace’s
interior suffered losses, with much of its original decor, including
paintings by artists like Tiepolo, destroyed or removed. Today,
Palazzetto Da Lezze is divided into private apartments and is not open
to the public, but its exterior remains a well-preserved example of
Venetian Gothic architecture. Its location near the Scuola Grande della
Misericordia and the Fondamente Nove, a busy waterfront for vaporettos
to Murano, places it in a vibrant part of Cannaregio, rich with
historical and cultural significance.
Palazzetto Da Lezze is a three-story palazzo (without a mezzanine),
lower in height than its neighbors, which gives it a distinctive,
compact profile. Its architectural scheme adheres to the Gothic style of
the early 15th century, characterized by pointed arches, trilobate
openings, and a focus on canal-facing elegance. While some sources
attribute the design to Baldassare Longhena, a prominent Baroque
architect, recent research confirms that the palace predates his era,
with only minor elements, such as a casin (warehouse or annex),
potentially linked to him.
Facade
The facade of Palazzetto Da
Lezze, facing the Grand Canal, is the palace’s most striking feature,
embodying the Venetian Gothic aesthetic with its delicate and
symmetrical design. Key elements include:
Ground Floor: The
ground floor is simple and functional, typical of Venetian palazzi, with
a low water gate for boat access and minimal ornamentation. It is built
with brick and Istrian stone to withstand the canal’s humidity. The
palace is slightly set back from the canal’s edge, preceded by a narrow
garden, a rare feature in Venice that adds to its charm and provides a
buffer from the water.
Piano Nobile (First Noble Floor): The piano
nobile is the facade’s highlight, featuring a central trifora
(three-light window) with trilobate (three-lobed) arches and a
projecting balcony. This trifora is flanked by two pairs of
single-lancet windows, also trilobate, creating a balanced and rhythmic
composition. The pointed arches and delicate tracery are hallmarks of
Venetian Gothic, influenced by Byzantine and Islamic designs encountered
through Venice’s trade networks. The windows are framed in Istrian
stone, contrasting with the plaster walls, which are likely painted in a
muted tone typical of the period.
Second Floor: The second floor
replicates the piano nobile’s window arrangement but with smaller, less
ornate openings, maintaining the Gothic style. The symmetry continues,
reinforcing the facade’s harmonious proportions.
Attic and Roofline:
The palace culminates in a small attic with modest square openings and
an abbaino (dormer window), a practical feature for ventilation and
light. The roofline is simple, without the crenelated cornices seen in
some Gothic palazzi, keeping the focus on the lower floors’ decorative
elements.
The facade’s right side is the primary focus, designed to
face the Grand Canal and impress passersby. Its compact scale and
setback position distinguish it from taller neighbors like Palazzo
Boldù, creating a sense of intimacy. The narrow garden, possibly a later
addition, enhances the palace’s picturesque quality, softening its
canal-side presence.
Alchemical Reliefs
A unique feature of
Palazzetto Da Lezze is its series of high-relief patere (carved stone
medallions) on the facade, particularly on the eastern side near the
Scuola Grande della Misericordia. These reliefs, attributed to the
Baroque period and possibly Longhena’s influence, are alchemical in
theme, reflecting Venice’s fascination with esoteric knowledge during
the Renaissance and beyond. One prominent relief, located on the corner
nearest the canal, depicts:
A crowned king, symbolizing
Philosophical Gold or Solar Conscience, associated with the alchemical
element Sulphur.
Two flanking figures borne on pelicans, representing
Mercury and Salt, linked to the Sun and Moon, respectively. These
figures symbolize the Solve Coagula (dissolution and coagulation)
processes central to alchemy.
The sun and moon above, reinforcing the
celestial and philosophical themes.
These reliefs are rare in
Venetian architecture, suggesting the Da Lezze family’s interest in
alchemy, a pseudoscience that flourished in Venice due to its trade in
medicinal and chemical knowledge. The reliefs add an esoteric layer to
the palace’s identity, inviting speculation about its historical
occupants’ intellectual pursuits.
Interior
The interior of
Palazzetto Da Lezze has been significantly altered since its
15th-century origins. Once adorned with rich decorations, including
frescoes and paintings by artists like Tintoretto, Tiziano, Veronese,
and Tiepolo, the interior was largely stripped in the 19th and early
20th centuries. The original portego (central hall) and side rooms,
typical of Venetian palazzi, would have been decorated with stucco,
frescoes, and wood paneling to reflect the family’s status. Today, the
palace is divided into private apartments, and little of its historical
decor remains accessible or documented.
The piano nobile likely
retains its high ceilings and large windows, offering views of the Grand
Canal and Rio di Noale. The presence of a casin, possibly designed by
Longhena, suggests a small annex used for social gatherings or storage,
though its current state is unclear. The loss of the interior’s artistic
heritage is a遗憾, but the exterior’s preservation compensates for this
absence.
Construction and Materials
Like most Venetian
palazzi, Palazzetto Da Lezze was built with techniques suited to the
lagoon’s challenging environment. Its foundations rest on wooden piles
driven into the muddy subsoil, supporting a structure of brick and
Istrian stone. The facade’s stone elements, including the trilobate
windows and reliefs, are crafted with precision to withstand saltwater
corrosion. The plaster walls, likely painted in a pale hue, are
periodically restored to maintain their appearance.
The garden, a
rare feature, is bordered by low walls and possibly contains a vera da
pozzo (wellhead), a common element in Venetian courtyards. The palace’s
compact design reflects the spatial constraints of Cannaregio’s dense
urban fabric, yet its canal-side facade maximizes its visual impact.
Palazzetto Da Lezze’s significance lies in its architectural purity,
historical associations, and unique decorative elements. Its Venetian
Gothic facade is a well-preserved example of 15th-century design,
offering a contrast to the grander Baroque palazzi like Ca’ Pesaro
across the canal. The Da Lezze family’s legacy, from their political
influence to their alchemical interests, adds depth to the palace’s
story, connecting it to Venice’s intellectual and mercantile culture.
The alchemical reliefs are particularly noteworthy, reflecting
Venice’s role as a hub for scientific and esoteric knowledge. The city’s
printing industry produced key texts on medicine and pharmacology, and
its trade in potions and chemicals fostered an environment where alchemy
thrived. The reliefs suggest the Da Lezze family’s engagement with these
ideas, possibly linked to their patronage of artists and scholars.
Today, the palace’s division into apartments reflects Venice’s
adaptation of historic buildings for modern use, a common practice in a
city with limited space. Its location in Cannaregio, near the Jewish
Ghetto, Fondamente Nove, and the Scuola Grande della Misericordia,
places it in a culturally rich district, ideal for exploring Venice’s
less touristy side.
Palazzetto Da Lezze is a private residence and not open to the
public, limiting access to its interiors. However, its facade can be
admired from the Grand Canal, best viewed by vaporetto (Lines 1 or 2,
stopping at San Stae or Ca’ d’Oro), gondola, or from the opposite bank
near Ca’ Pesaro. The palace’s position at the Rio di Noale’s confluence
offers a picturesque perspective, especially in the morning when the
light highlights the Gothic tracery.
The narrow garden and
alchemical reliefs are visible from the canal or nearby fondamenta,
adding to the palace’s allure. Visitors should respect the private
nature of the building and avoid trespassing. The palace is
approximately 1 kilometer from Santa Lucia railway station, a 10-minute
walk or short vaporetto ride, and is easily included in a Cannaregio
itinerary.
Nearby attractions enhance the experience:
Ca’
Pesaro (50 meters across the canal): A Baroque palazzo housing the
International Gallery of Modern Art and Oriental Art Museum.
Ca’
d’Oro (400 meters southeast): A Gothic masterpiece with the Giorgio
Franchetti Gallery.
Jewish Ghetto (600 meters north): The historic
heart of Venice’s Jewish community, with synagogues and a museum.
Fondamente Nove (800 meters northeast): A waterfront with vaporettos to
Murano and Burano.
Scuola Grande della Misericordia (500 meters
west): A historic confraternity building, occasionally open for
exhibitions.
Cannaregio’s side streets offer quiet cafes and bacari,
such as Osteria Al Timon, where visitors can enjoy cicheti and a spritz
while taking in the district’s authentic atmosphere.
Palazzetto Da Lezze is less prominent in tourist literature than
grander palazzi like Ca’ d’Oro or the Doge’s Palace, but it is cherished
by architecture enthusiasts for its Gothic elegance and historical
quirks. Sources like Wikipedia and Images of Venice praise its
well-preserved facade and alchemical reliefs, noting its contrast with
the larger Palazzo da Lezze nearby. Tripadvisor lists it as a minor
attraction (ranked #928 of 953 in Venice), reflecting its private status
and limited visibility.
The palace’s survival in a city facing
acqua alta, overtourism, and preservation challenges underscores its
resilience. Its division into apartments ensures its continued use,
though the loss of interior decor is a reminder of the difficulties in
maintaining Venice’s artistic heritage. The alchemical reliefs,
highlighted in niche sources like Images of Venice, add an esoteric
allure, appealing to those interested in Venice’s mystical side.